Project Cars or Member’s Cars sub forum for the build threads so readers can follow the creation or re-creation of a high performance Caddy. Whether it is a CTS-V, a 1970 Eldorado, a Northstar powered Eldo, etc. , an organized way of finding and enjoying and learning from others who have the need to modify their rides for performance or racing.
Looking for a reliable and trustworthy auto repair shop? Look no further! B & B Automotive LLC offers all-inclusive service across most major brands and half off Dealer prices. Featuring Head Studs for Cadillac Repairs.
My '05 Deville had the airbag light on and a SDM B0101 CURRENT code. It just happened one day a few weeks ago when I backed it out of the garage to wash it. I store it winters and have put less than 1000 miles on it this driving season.
The shop manual defined the code as "front impact sensor discard". The manual concentrated on the SDM B0100 which is an opened sensor and there was not much information on the B0101 code. I figured the sensor was shot but the retail price of the sensor is $220.00 - I decided to remove the sensor from my wife's 2004 Deville and install it in the '05 to see if the code went away. The sensor is mounted on a crossmember behind the radiator - the splash shield needs to be removed to access the bolt. It wouldn't budge so I abandoned the idea - if something went wrong and the sensor got damaged, I'd be buying two of them...
I decided to take the sensor out of my car and plug it into the '04 to see if the SDM B0101 code set on the '04. No luck - I broke my T-30 torx driver socket. I thought if I unplugged the sensor and the SDM B0101 changed to history and the SDM B0100 code set, there was a good chance the sensor was bad. Sure enough that is what happened.
I used to order parts from Brasington Cadillac in Florida - great prices and the parts were delivered to my door in three days. They became Palm Chevrolet Cadillac and are now Davis Chevrolet Cadillac. Long story short - they don't discount parts anymore. I ordered one from gmpartsgiant.com for $159.00. It arrived Monday and I immediately noticed the screw was a left hand thread! The service manual made no mention of that! I attempted to remove the screw from the old sensor but it would not budge - even after removing the radiator support cover and spraying the exposed threads with penetrating oil.
I then decided to drill out the screw using a 1/4" drill bit at a low speed to not work-harden the screw. I got just past the bottom of the torx feature and very few chips would generate. That screw was hard as rock. I didn't have a cobalt drill bit so I kept drilling, keeping the drill bit lubed with cutting oil. I got to a point where I was able to get a small cold chisel in there and gave it a whack with a ball peen hammer and the head popped off and I was able to remove the old sensor. A cobalt drill would have made the job much easier.
I lubed the screw that came with the new sensor with anti-seize and installed the new sensor and no more code/airbag light.
I inspected the old sensor and could not see any cracks or any evidence of water intrusion. I sawed it open and saw a small circuit board - something must've failed on the circuit board.
I thought I'd post this as there was very little information on the various forums about the B0101 code and certainly no mention that the mounting screw had left hand threads. If anyone has to change out the sensor on their car, it is a left hand thread so turn it clockwise to remove it. If it won't budge, buy a 1/4" cobalt drill bit and drill the head down to the body of the screw. The cobalt drill bit will make the job much easier.
Your list is decent except for the part on running the engine once per month. One thing that should be done is to change the engine oil and filter just prior to storage so that there is fresh, clean oil on the bearings for the storage period.
The WORST thing you can do to a car in storage is to start it and let it run. Coolant temperature has nothing to do with oil temperature. All you're doing is loading the crankcase with blowby and moisture. The exhaust is also being loaded with moisture. The only way to get the engine oil hot enough is to drive the car for 10+ miles (which you don't want to do with a stored car as it will get full of salt).
Prep. it, park it and leave it until spring.
My check engine light is on and I'm required to get emissions to register the car. My goal is to just get it to pass emissions. Do not know what to fix because I'm getting different codes from the dealer, scanner, and on board diagnostic.
I was given the car 2 years ago. The only work done on the car in the last 2 years has been oil changes, a new battery (right after getting it), and replaced the spark plugs (about 1 year ago).
Dealer tells me:
C1214 and C1248 requires BPMV and EBCM valve replacements, internal short and reprogram/ Breakdown--- 3.0 BPMV// 1.5 EBCM/ 1.0 Program/// 1.5 brake system bleed. Same as car.
Not sure what the alphabet soup means but, I know it's with the ABS. Have not noticed any braking problems. Not emissions related.
P1415 Secondary Air Injection valve 1// Bk 1 - Same as scanner & Car (I assume the same as P0410)
P0741 tcc failure replace torque converter and involved gaskets. Code does not match scanner nor is in the on board history.
I did notice the car was zippier after getting it back from dealer. Faster off the line and better acceleration.
Scanner gets - have not driven car and tested about 4 days after dealer. Car was running during test.
P0300 misfire Matches car's history. Does not match dealer
P0410 Secondary Air Injection Pump Malfunction Matches Car and Dealer.
On Board DTC - I'm just going to give you both the history and current codes from the on board. Tested about 3 days after scanner.
ABS 1214, 1248 Both Current - Same as dealer
DDM U1713, B3832 Both History
IPC B1004, B1327, U1301 all history
IPM B0429 C Does not match Any Other Tests.
IPM B1004 H
IRC U1016 H
PCM P0300 H Matches Scanner random misfire Does not match dealer
PCM P0410 C Matches Scanner Matches Dealer
PDM U1713, U1714, B3832 all History
RIM B1327, C0658 both History
Disclaimer - I'm in no way a mechanic or have any knowledge of these engines. But, I do know that something needs to be fixed for me to pass emissions.
What should be replaced? How do I go about doing it?
Good morning Mike. I've been searching in the forum about rich cold start. I have a 1993 Cadillac deville 4.9 v8. I've done maintenance. full tune up. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor. New EGR, and new PCV valve. Throttle body cleaned and air intakes (those were bad) checked the timing yesterday (at 24 degrees) don't know why but I'll bring it down. Cold start rough... too much fuel. Runs perfect after warm. Any suggestions about the rich cold start? Any info it would be much appreciated. thank you.
I live in Terre Haute, IN. Do you know much about 4.5 Liter engine? I have a 1988 Fleetwood (FWD)... I am needing to find someone to do some work on it.
email@example.com Let me know if you can help.
New Guy here.I owned a 96 Eldorado years ago and loved it.It was stolen.I bought an 03 Mercury Marauder brand new.I drove it for 13 years.I did a lot of modifications to that car,very fast..In 2016 I bought a new Challenger,V6 305HP.I never really adapted to the car and wanted that Caddy ride....I just bought an 02 Eldorado.Love it..It needs some love..I'll be asking questions for sure.Thanks for having me.