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Jan Olsson

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Jan Olsson last won the day on March 19

Jan Olsson had the most liked content!

About Jan Olsson

  • Birthday 02/06/1974

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    2012 CTS-V and 1949 Chevrolet Fleetline
  • Engine
    Supercharged 6.2L (LSA)

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sweden
  • Interests
    Cars, engineering and economics

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  1. Hey Jan
    I have a friend in his 80s with a 81 Eldorado Barritz his mechanic swapped out the computer loosing the memcal chips any chance you might know where I can help him find either the memcals or a salvage computer?

    1. Jan Olsson

      Jan Olsson

      Hi Dave!

      It is rare that a computer fails in a Cadillac and I have never personally had to replace one. I would say that a computer is one of the very few objects that I would buy from a salvage yard just because they never seem to fail but I guess that they a hard to come by since the car is fourty years old.

      Other sources/solutions would be:

      1) have the mechanic to replace the computer at no additional cost, they messed it up...

      2) Ebay, Amazon etc. Google it. I suggest that you find out what engine option the Eldo have to be sure to find the right part. I found this info: Problem with 1981 Eldorado ECM and PROMS (cadillaclasalleclub.org)

    2. Dave42

      Dave42

      Thanks Jan

      One of the guys I build motors for found a complete ECM out of an 81 Eldo in Miami junkyard.

      I am unsure if it had the 4-6-8 delete conversion done but at least it has a memcal and prom in it.

      They are going to plug it in and try it.

      I will update on success or what I have to do to emulate the 4-6-8 function so he can drive 

  2. Kör du på 10W-30 olja vilken som helst av syntet, delsyntet eller mineral. Problemet är att i USA kostar mineral och syntet ungefär detsamma. I Sverige är det en faktor två på priset. Bilen klarar vilket som. En bil som har några år på nacken läcker däremot lite mindre med mineral eller delsyntet. Jag har för mig att du inte har rullföljarna på kammarna, kom väl -01 eller -02 och då ska du ha något som klarar av glidningen som uppstår och då dagens oljor är framtagna med dagens motorer i åtanke så är de också framtagna med rullföljare etc i åtanke. Som sagt, en nyare olja borde vara bättre men förutsättningarna ändras. Man gick från glidytor, fördelardrev och kugghjulspumpar och till dagens lösningar vilket innebär att dagens oljor inte har tillsatser på samma sätt som förr. Oljorna idag är naturligtvis mycket bättre än förr men de är också framtagna med dagens motorer i åtanke, inte gårdagens...Det innebär att du bör helgardera med en olja som är avsedd för långmilare och dieselmotorer. De har extra tillsatser för sånt. Jag handlar från oljemagasinet.se. Tyvärr hittar jag inte 10W-30 men jag hade tagit https://www.oljemagasinet.se/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=2191&path=144_113&av=SAE%2010W-40|Viskositet Det är visserligen 10W-40 men det klarar den. Möjligen får du en något högre soppaförbrukning. Viktigast är rätt viskositet. Inte tunnare än 10W-30 men något tjockare går bra (inte 10W-50 eller nåt sånt bara!) Är oljan avsedd för långmilare och/eller diesel har den tillsatser som klarar skjuvning bra.
  3. If I ever win on lottery I'm going to get me a V16. Only two car manufacturers ever produced a V16 engine for a commercial vehicle, Cadillac and Marmon. Cadillac made two designs! The solution at the time to get smooth power delivery and few gear changes
  4. Hi! I just wanted to re-introduce myself since it was a long time ago. I'm a male, 46 years old, with wife and a daughter, nine years old. I don't really consider myself to be one of the lucky guys in the world but I'm not a very social kind of person and that goes hand in hand. I have been unemployed the latest two recessions for a couple of years (in Sweden it is the last guy employed who is the first guy who gets sacked when a company needs to shrink their employee force) and have moved around quite a bit (in Sweden) just to keep myself occupied. You know the kind, the guy with few personal connections who has to take the job no one else in their right minds will take. Some organization theorists believe that there are three kinds of people, the guy who just tags along, the guy who likes to be in charge and me, the guy who likes to be the specialist. I'm working as a mechanical engineer (currently on a company producing labels and my department is manufacturing labeling machines with me as the head engineer). I develop all new equipment even if the whole department take credit from my achievements, especially if they weren’t involved in the process at all, like sales people, my boss etc. My wife is a nurse specialized in cancer treatment (half boss too). Anyway we had to commute so the time to do fun things like working on cars, write on forums etc. was limited. We live in a small town because we really don't want to live in a violent and criminal town like Malmoe (where I am working). The Covid-19 outbreak forced me to work from home which by the way suits me just fine since I can't stand half of the people on my department (not to mention being in Malmoe) I've been working as a mechanical engineer in almost 25 years and have NEVER been surrounded by so many freeloaders. I swear that if the management kicked half of the employees we couldn't tell the difference! As an example we had an inventory of the stock the other day, on guy was "sick", a girl aged about 25 complained about that she was not supposed to be there because it wasn't her job, and also complained about her nails being damaged from counting O-rings and washers. I told her to shut up and count how many spring turns there are on the spring and work instead of complaining. 😉 I've been on the Caddy info forum since 2002 and have owned an Eldorado (1988 year model with about 150k miles on in when sold, 50 k miles from my driving) a 1993 STS (with about 150 k on it when sold, 50 k miles from my driving) a 2002 STS (about 210 k miles on in when sold, 190 k from my driving) and am the happy owner of a 2012 CTS-V. The V currently has about 100 k on the odometer (70 k miles from me). Our family (daughter, wife and me) also like Jeeps. We have owned a 1990 Cherokee, a 2004 Wrangler and the latest one was bought last year. A 1999 Grand Cherokee. Of course people think that we are insane when we buy a 20 year old car with almost 200k on the odometer but I saw it as a recreational project. I always try to do as much as possible by myself when I work on our cars. No need to pay someone to damage or mistreat the car, I can do a better work for free. I only have access to a very small garage. Just enough space to change oil, brake pads and other small stuff. On the Jeep I've replaced all cooler lines and hoses, alternator, AC-compressor, radiators, brake pads and discs, brake booster, rear exhaust system, fan coupling, some sensors and electrical motors too. Payed the local shop to do the brake lines and rusted out door sills and some other small stuff. Now we have a 4wd in “daily drive condition” and a car that we use in terrain and all year around costing $0 in financing. Just got to fix the leaking valve gaskets and some minor stuff. We used it on a 3000 mile drive this vacation without the slightest problem. Now I thought it was the time to buy an older car. I bought a 1949 Chevrolet Fleetline in "daily driver" condition and I am planning to keep it in OEM condition. Unfortunately it is hard to get access to garages in Sweden and I'm searching for a garage to store it and work on it. I have the car stored by the seller at the moment and can go there to do minor work on the car but it is always better to have the car in the near vicinity than 30 miles away. I think it is in need of only smaller work. Adjusting valves, ignition and carburetor, get the clock and speedometer to work and other small stuff like that. Great car, but it is not a Cadillac. I figured that I already have a performance driver so it will be fun driving a Chevrolet anyway The car has an inline overhead valve six with about 90 bhp, three on a tree (first gear unsynchronized), no oil filter (option in the day) and an AM-radio, 6 Volt electrical system and vacuum wipers, no servo steering or servo brakes but it is solid running, no mechanical noises and reasonable rust free. I just love it
  5. Hi I just wanted to chime in. I have had 2 engines with the Northstar engine and both achieved at least 360 k miles in total without problems. Regular coolant changes is the biggest contributing factor to keep the head gaskets happy according to the "guru", a guy working on GM perfomance division. Change every two years if Dex-Cool is the factory fill. Every year if it is the green stuff.
  6. Hi I’m ni longer interrested in this item. Thanks anyway.
  7. Hi all! I thought I would do a write up on what "problems" I have encountered over the years so far. Being that I drive about 25 k miles a year I have to do regular services more frequently of course, I also encounter problems more frequently than the average car owner will do. Bear in mind that I have owned Cadillacs and relied upon them as daily drivers since 2002 and am quite familiar with them and always do what work needs to be done by myself except from lately. This is because I have access to a very small garage and my rule of thumb is “if I can’t close the garage door after me when I am done wrenching for today, then I leave it to a trusted shop instead”. I also have limited possibilities to raise my car because of the tight space. My previous Cadillacs in order were: 1988 Eldorado (about 150 k miles on it when sold after 50k miles of my usage) 1993 STS (about 150k miles on it when sold after about 50k miles of my usage) 2002 STS (about 200k miles on it when sold after about 180k miles of my usage) Current daily driver 2012 CTS-V (almost 81 k miles on it and 53 k miles of my usage) Trying to rank them in regards of dependability is hard. Propably the Eldo was the best. But I guess it is comparing apples to oranges because of how different I drove that car compared to the others. I never did anything above the ordinary to the Eldo more than regular service but on the other side that car was not exactly a car seeing very high speeds and aggressive driving very often. I drove it fast, just not STS or CTS-V fast J Just a very nice car that by the way still is running with 165k miles on it. Of course there were small things that needed to be repaired, sticking e-brakes, leaking valve cover gaskets etc, but just minor stuff. Second best? I would say my 2002 STS. I drove that car HARD and the only regular thing I had to do was to change the front wheel hubs every 50k miles because they wore out. I also replaced catalytic converter, servo steering pump, crankshaft position sensors, rear brake calipers and the infamous intermediate shaft. Except from that just small things like fixing the driver side door lock. When I sold it it had the half case oil leak but it still ran like a champ. I recall that I have made several pages of notes on what I had done with it (the records followed the car when I sold it) but it was services and repairs for 180 k miles so I expect that list to be quite tall! After that I would say the 1993 STS. I bought it with burned exhaust valves on the no 1 cylinder and fixed that. The dampers for the RSS (road sensing suspension) needed replacement, EGR-valve, alternator and mufflers was replaced but besides that it was great. The “worst” car of them all is my 2012 CTS-V. Understand me right. This is a great car, probably the best of them all especially considered the usage it sees (seeing a lot of WOTs, hard cornering and hard braking) but this one I really want everything to work perfectly on and therefore it equals more fixing. There were things with the other cars that I never bothered to fix. The AC on the Eldo that was out of service when I bought it, the seat heaters on my 1993 STS and interior leather on the passenger seat, the half case oil leak on my 2002 STS for example. Simply because these faults at the time seemed expensive to repair compared to the relative use I would have from the repairs. Now I got a thicker wallet and thus can be more picky about what I accept and not. This list of what is done to the car is from my memory, I’ll have to double check with my notes later on to see if I have missed something. I bought the car with about 28 k miles on it and now it has done almost 81 k miles. Oil and filter changes when the OLM tells me to (with recommended weight and type of oil) goes without saying A new set of tires now and then, Studded winter tires lasts two seasons. Summer tires lasts one. (It is just as I expected. High speed rated tires wear faster than regular tires and my driving style doesn’t exactly prolong life expectancy J Front brake pads lasts a year, rear about two. Front pads wear uneven at winter time because of the amount of dirt from the road quickly gathers on the brake caliper and inhibits brake action on the outer pads. I thought about using less expensive brake pads at winter time but am reluctant to use them because I am afraid they will crack the rotors more easily. Exhange of coolant and rear axle fluid Front discs, a set a year (blame my driving habits, because I do J) And now a list of repairs/services out of the ordinary: Supercharger replacement due to abnormal noise (free of charge) Left catalytic converter replacement. Beats me what could have caused it to fail. Fuel trim values follows left and right cylinder bank very well which in turn does not point to vacuum leaks, exhaust leaks or injector problems. I did however change the plugs just after I bought it because there were a slight miss. I guess that this slight miss caused the problem to begin with. Time will tell. Signal horn replacement Trunk lid gas springs replacement Multi-function lever replacement Alarm modules failed (motion sensor and inclination sensor shortly after) Front wheel hub replacement I also have an annoying sound during warm up also. Can’t hear it when the car is cold or warm, it seems to manifest itself just above 70F or so and goes away when the engine gets warmer. My guess is either the alternator or servo steering pump. Over all I am very happy with it. It has tremendous power and stopping power, excellent road holding abilities, is extremely easy to drive (though it can scare the crap out of you, for instance wheel spin at 100 mph on a rainy road is no problem to achieve) and is fairly easy to work on when it comes to service at least. I don’t trust garages however. I know that I could have done the work better if I only had the space and the right tools. Screws and nuts overtightened, parts mounted the wrong way, shortcuts and wrong parts and fluids is just what you can expect, even at the trusted garages sometimes if you aren’t watching them like a hawk. I had to let the garage change the cat and the wheel hubs. Since we don’t have more than one car in the household I didn’t have time and space to do the converter. I really tried and tried the hubs but had to give up and it was a bit more shameful to me because I have always changed bearing hubs myself. L The shop had to remove the steering knuckle in order to press them out. But I will be prepared the next time. Found a tool called the hub grappler on the internet that I think will do the trick.
  8. The P1372 code and MAP sensor are unrelated. P1106 was the code for the MAP sensor so it makes sence that you still got the P1372 BEFORE the Crankshaft Position Sensors were replaced. Are there still codes precent after the Crankshaft Position Sensors were replaced? If not then there is another problem and it has propably something to do with the MAP connections since it is the only other code you have got. From my own experiences it seems rare that a sensor breaks. Usually bad connections and damaged wiring seems to be the problem. The Crankshaft Position Sensors are located on a tight spot but not that difficult to replace after you remove the oil filter adapter. I've done it myself
  9. I would also pull the MAP-connector (it sits on top of the throttle body), spray it with WD40 and disconnect/connect the connector 10-15 times. This excercise cleans the connector and restores the connectivity. Also try to wiggle the cables with car running and see if you can get it to stall. If you have a problem with a bad connection (apart from the oxides that you cleaned away in the previous step) it can either be the connector itself or the wires. I had a code for the MAP-sensor a couple of years ago and a little love and WD40 solved it
  10. Hi all! I’ve just returned home after a total of 2000 miles of driving. We went to southern Bavaria through Denmark for a week J The temperatures was about 90-95F but the V didn’t mind, until I smelled coolant when I was fueling it up…because of a lousy dealer job. Some of you might remember that I let an authorized dealership change the compressor free of charge (replacement because of abnormal sounds). I almost always do what needs to be done on my own cars but since the compressor isn’t exactly free of charge I had to let a shop do the work to get it for free. I told them that I didn’t mind to wait another hour for them to get finished. I’d rather have them do a proper job than rush things through, but that didn’t help at all obviously... When I bought the car from them I pointed out to them (well actually I wrote a long mail) that they claimed the engine oil was changed (it was not), they used cheap after-market brake pads, they did not inform me that the coolant was due for a change etc. etc. Since I do most of the work myself it wasn’t really a big thing. I expected it and thought I could use it as leverage in order to get free stuff, like navigation DVDs etc. According to various sources you can expect that about 60-80% of the Swedish garages charge you for work that hasn’t been done or that they miss faults that should’ve been corrected. Ok. I popped the hood and saw that a coolant hose was rubbing against an idler wheel. The retards obviously didn’t care too much about proper routing and clamping. Nothing to do because the gas station didn’t have hose clamps, pipes etc. I had to call a towing truck after dealing with my insurance company. So there we were. Me, my wife and my daughter in 95F in the middle of nowhere in former eastern Germany. After a couple of hours the towing truck arrived, I drove the V up on the back of the truck and had to leave my wife, daughter and all luggage behind on the gas station because there wasn’t room for all of us and the guy who collected the car wanted me to drive the car off the truck as well. Now it was early night, he drove about 20 miles to some shady part of an old town in former DDR (the truck didn’t have air-conditioning and the driver was smoking, everyone seems to smoke in Germany don’t they?). We unloaded the V and expected to get a cab back to my family but then the guy started the repair. Some hose clamps, a pipe and some coolant later I was heading back to collect the rest of the family and our stuff. Much delayed we arrived at our first planned stop. I will sort things out with the dealer for sure. The V has performed very well, especially given the conditions it was used in. There are always a lot of construction works going on at the German Autobahns but there are also a lot of places where to put the pedal to the metal and go at whatever ridiculous speed you deem safe. The fastest I drove was 286 km/h (almost 178 mph) after the GPS. I say GPS because European speedometers must show 5% higher than actual speed. For long stretches I drove about 125-155 mph with a fully loaded car at about 95F. I once braked REALLY hard from about 165-170 mph to a full stop because of a sudden traffic jam. Everything seems in order, no leaks, smells or funny noises. The V behaved very well, always power when needed and quite comfortable for a sport sedan. No car could outrun me but several of them could keep up for a little while, at least until they had to break for another car before switching lanes to get up to speed again. Imagine for instance a VW driving at 120 mph in the left lane, switching to the middle lane in order to let my pass by while accelerating up to 150 mph (in case I couldn’t keep up and pass him he could go back to the left lane again), slamming the brakes hard because of a truck in front of it and return back to the left lane again to keep up with me. Many BMWs, Mercedes, Audis and VWs did that but they lacked the acceleration even if the top speed perhaps didn’t differ that much. I have also driven on the steepest grades in my life, 24%! Average fuel consumption for the trip was 14.9 mpg which is impressing given my driving!
  11. I correct myself. It should say "The most powerful narrow gauge steam loco in Germany". The most powerful german steam loco is I believe the series 44 (standard gauge). It would be nice to ride a passenger express train like the series 18. It can manage express trains up to 110 mph!
  12. It has really served me well. I still expect to see it on the parking lot sometimes when I look out the window.
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