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BodybyFisher last won the day on September 3

BodybyFisher had the most liked content!


About BodybyFisher

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    Cadillac Mike (formerly Scotty)
  • Birthday 05/21/1953

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    Northstar, Cadillac, Computers, Electronics, Tools, Pools,

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    96 Deville retired, 97 ETC
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)

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  1. Sorry about my knee jerk here. It was becoming frustrating to dig into problems provide information and feedback and the member never came back. Not what you did here. I was about to write about my frustration when your post came up. Many times I drive to a local library and use their extensive databases to print out schematics and diagnostic info post it and nothing after considerable effort. So I was a little on edge when we were batting potential symptoms back and forth.
  2. If I recall you did a good job of digging in and figuring things out!
  3. Glad you are making progress, sorry I didn't see your DM on 10/11, I didn't see it till today. It sounds like your muffler was collapsed inside. Odd that it would run better when warm though. Did you put a new CAT in? I had a CAT go bad, it wasn't clogged it just rattled loudly. I had a clogged CAT on an 01 Monte Carlo, no power whatsoever, 01 was a bad year for CATs.
  4. I have been watching your progress via email, what a job, wow, that job was rough.. Glad you got it done. This is a great thread to show difficulties that can happen. I have been recuperating from surgery and rehabbing my hip (two separate issues). Been under the weather
  5. Good morning Mike. I've been searching in the forum about rich cold start. I have a 1993 Cadillac deville 4.9 v8. I've done maintenance. full tune up. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor. New EGR, and new PCV valve. Throttle body cleaned and air intakes (those were bad) checked the timing yesterday (at 24 degrees) don't know why but I'll bring it down. Cold start rough... too much fuel. Runs perfect after warm. Any suggestions about the rich cold start? Any info it would be much appreciated. thank you. 

    1. monoloco38


      For codes only the E52 and E65. Forgot to add that. Thank you. 

    2. BodybyFisher


      I am sorry, I just saw your message here today, are you still experiencing problems? Mike

      I will send a DM

    3. monoloco38


      I am. Narrow it down to a bad fuel check valve. On the run position pressure goes to 40 psi. Quick drops to 20 to 25 and slowly works its way down to 10 to 15 psi (2min about) fuel pressure regulator no leaks. Checked vacuum and its good. At times runs fine, but looses pressure under load. On idle as well. Vehicle wants to compensate by accelaring on it's own, and starts causing misfires. lean code. Where is the check valve? At the pump or sending unit? So I know what part to get. If you can let me know please much appreciated. thank you. 

  6. The ABS system trouble codes are checked differently on this model, here is a photo from the manual. Ill do some reading later. As can be seen here the ABS codes are retained even if battery is disconnected.
  7. That is a good point, that crossed my mind also. Was the parking brake shoes at the rear or did the parking brake tighten the caliper?
  8. What you see here is something called brain storming. Members thinking about your problem and giving a possible cause. A line of thinking. We tend not duel or shut down others thoughts regardless of how experienced we are or how ludicrous someone's suggestion is given the fact that someone in some part of the planet took the time to contemplate and respond to a problem. We feed off each others ideas and questions. In addition we have NO idea how experienced or inexperienced you are or what you have done to date. We rely upon you to tell us ALL details. Our questions PROBE for details and info from you. Keep in mind we have not driven the car, can't feel it nor can we hear it. At no point did you say you checked codes, so you left us in the dark and we wasted time. We can only respond to your description of the problem, that you left information out, about checking codes, driving it once and compared it to a nissan and made assumptions was left out. You said, the car starts up and runs ok in your first post. You now say, the battery was dead, and you checked codes.... when did you check codes immediately after jumping it?, because the system needs to go through a drive cycle of about 50 miles to run all tests, maybe less for some tests. Now don't get me wrong, I am not being testy or a jerk, this is a give and take. I had my 91 Seville for 10 years and had the sprag go, did all work and became proficient with OBD1 and used it for real time data. Toward the end the sprag did some weird things at speed. I have been here since 1995, sent 4.9 parts and 4.9 engines to europe. Have 20,000 posts here many on 4.9 platforms between my bbf and scotty names. And I can tell I have never heard of a problem like yours and I definately would remember. We are asking probing questions and trying to dive into your problem, try not shooting down avenues of thought, that car is 30 years old and all kinds of stuff could happen especially if it sat for a long time. Checking codes is only good after a drive cycle of 50 miles How long did the car sit? You jumped a totally dead battery? <<< answer that. You may not have had sufficient current to drive the coil, my 91 died with a bad battery as soon as I hit the accelerator You MAY have been feeling misfiring due to a bad battery with insufficient current to drive the coil. But we know nothing about the battery or if the car was jumped and assessed with a weak battery, connections or how far it was driven. Restate exactly what you did from the time you saw the car based on issues I brought up. I need to look at my 91 factory service manual. This car will NOT run right with a bad battery that wasnt fully charged or with a dead cell.
  9. The codes need to be checked. I need to pull my 91 manual. This could be the ABS engaging, also. I do not believe that all the codes can be pulled though the dash... (its been a long time), will do some research. You need ABS codes also Sonjaab raises a good point, the converter clutch could be engaging and disengaging also Check codes asap, if you don't know how, let us know
  10. You need to determine if this is mechanical or ignition related. Do you know how to check the codes?, you have an on board OBD1 diagnostic system that you can retrieve the trouble codes from. Does your check engine light flash when this happens?
  11. I have experienced this. While idling in Park, suddenly you hear a noise and the car moves a slight bit. I had a 91 Seville, very similar to yours. I do believe that it is caused by the SPRAG. My sprag finally failed and I had the tranny rebuilt. Is that what you experience? Does it happen iding in park? Have a good tranny guy feel it @4.9FWDfan
  12. Let us know how it turns out. Getting away from the synthetic and with the cooler weather upon us, you should be ok
  13. Take a 3/4 inch hose and use it as a listening device. Listen to the alternator. Is the battery retaining its charge? See this thread