rockfangd

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rockfangd last won the day on May 24

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About rockfangd

  • Rank
    CaddyInfo Enthusiast
  • Birthday 03/18/1986

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oriskany, NY
  • Interests
    Luxury cars, electronics, performance

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    Seville 1997, Deville 1997
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)

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  1. Can you be a little more specific on the cruise issue? Does it engage? MY 97 Seville had a no resume issue. It was caused by a plug under the hood. It joined the dash plug to the underhood components. The plug has 2 rows, about 12 wires per side. ONe of the wires had corroded at the pin and lost connection. Now I realize your 98 is very different from my 97 but it may use the same concept. IT was right by the strut tower in the electrical center
  2. Check the RAP, or Inadvertent power relay. If it has one. IT may be integral to the fuse panel... If that is the case the box may need to be replaced, unless someone is repairing them
  3. ooh, thats a nice spoiler. I would like to find a tasteful one for my Deville. Never seen another 3 part one like the one on my Seville
  4. It does, but not long enough. It only cycles when the engine is started. Not when the key is cycled on. It only runs for a second, If even that. I keep trickle tenders plugged in for the winter. Keeps the battery and electronics happy😁
  5. yes. You must be careful though. Does it have a spoiler? or better yet Did it have one? There are tension springs on each side. Inside the fender behind the carpet, right next to the arms for the lid. From the sounds of it the tension is too tight. When you pull the side carpet you will see what likes a course saw. The spring attaches there. The farther back toward toward the rear of the car the more tension on the spring. There is alot of tension on these springs so that is where you must be careful. I can try and post a pic of them today. This is actually a commonly overlooked issue. I have had 3 cars with spring issues. My Cutlass Supreme had the luggage rack. The springs were never adjusted to compensate and therefore the lid did not come up on its own. If you put it up it would stay up. I kind of prefered it that way. My Seville has a Spoiler. Same exact thing. The pulldown just pushes the lid up. I have had multiple GMs that flew up. It is also possible that if it had an accident and required repair they may not have been adjusted right. I have seen the trunk lids that have gotten bent where the arm is attached due to this problem
  6. I start the car at least once a month. Sometimes that is just not enough
  7. I knew those had to be STS parts. . Looks incredible. I thought about making those changes to mine but it would cost more than I would want to spend to modify it. Mine is a tri coat, is yours? I realize we have 2 different Reds. Black mirrors... Thats strange. It sucks I have a set of foglamps and switch for my Seville but it will not work because the Foglamp option was only on the STS. There is no place in the bumper for them. I did add them in my Deville and it was not a fun job. I stress these were not prewired at all for the option. I had to run all of the wires. They are completely factory and add a nice touch. The wiring goes from the headlight switch all the way to the trunk, from the trunk back to the headlight switch(for the ON indicator), then under the hood to the relay. Fuse and relay are also not prewired. I had to do that as well. If you don't mind me asking what was involved with changing the cladding on the doors?
  8. So. There is the rust factor which is part of the issue. So there are 2 bolts that hold the motor to the BPMV, they are small torx. Possibly T15, and they round very easily The other issue is the power wire. It is soldered into the motor itself and is a solid wire that is soldered to the board on the BPMV. So even if you get the bolts out the wire is still a snag. I replaced the motor on one of my Eldos and I cut the wire and spliced the 2 halves back together. Most of the ones I have ever dealt with are rusted so bad that the bolts will not even budge. What I did yesterday was carefully remove a small portion of the insulation from the power wire and ran a jumper wire to the wire. I cycled and tapped the pump, then let it run for a minute. It went from barely spinning to spinning nicely now. The code has not returned yet. I hope being it will be driven it may not. If there was a relay or at least scantool function for it it would have been alot easier
  9. Beautiful. Surely a one of a kind body style. Thank you for sharing. I kind of like yours better than mine. It has less clutter on the body. Mine has black and chrome trims
  10. That is how I have been doing it. I tap on it, then cycle the key. I do know they can be split. The EBTCM is separate. Pain to get them apart though.
  11. Hi All. I ran into this last year on one of my Caddys and this year again, Different car same problem. I have replaced the BPMV and pump assembly on the one last year, have had to do them in the past as well. The motor is not serviced separately. It is part of the unit. Anyway this is on my 97 Deville. Code is the 1243 Stalled pump. I put it away in the Fall, and when I start driving it in the Spring the pump motor is lazy. Worse is that I never use the ABS or Traction Control. If you drive like a normal, (well thats not saying much lol) person it just does not get used enough. I want to be able to exercise the pump motor. I have not yet figured out a way... I have tried Scantools, no luck. There is no relay as it is controlled through the EBTCM. I am at a loss. The only idea I have is That the Case is the ground, The Positive is a Solid wire that runs from the BPMV to the motor. I thought about tapping into the wire and running it to a relay and switch. If I could do that I would run it for a minute and clean up the brushes. This is the 4th one I have owned that I have had this issue. Replacement is not very fun due to location and the fact all 6 brake lines have to be disconnected, then finding a replacement. Just not worth it. Anyone have any insight on the 90s generation ABS. Has anyone had any success cycling the motor with a scantool? I might add that in newer GMs this is still a issue. I have worked on many GMs that had lazy pumps. I use my Scantool and enable the pump for 1 minute. Some will not even spin at first. If that does not work then the whole ABS unit has to be replaced. Did I mention I live in NY where nothing Rusts (NOT). I hope All is Well. This year has been a Drag. I send my best regards out to our fellow members.
  12. On my Eldorados and Sevilles it lights up amber to indicate the gear. But the 98 Seville I am not sure as it was entirely different. Will look into it
  13. I am enjoying this. Don't see many Sevilles.
  14. To update this I finally got one of my Homelink to program to my Genie opener. First opener remote had to be put into train mode. Hold any button other than the open/close button for 10 seconds until red/green come on solid. Push same button twice until light turns red. Now here is where I was goofing up. Push the open/close button and the homelink you want to program Hold both until the homelink light flashes fast. The remote code is now programmed to the car. You now have to program the Homelink to the opener. Hold Program button on Genie opener for 2 seconds. Will be flashing blue, once you let go purple should be flashing. Go back to Homelink and push the programmed button for 2 seconds, release, and repeat. Complete. I was goofing up because I was trying to program the wrong button on the opener remote rather than the open/close button. Now although this worked fine on my Deville I cannot get it to work on my Seville. (Both have the same Homelink)