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RubberCarrot

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RubberCarrot last won the day on April 28

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About RubberCarrot

  • Rank
    Fanatic (50+ posts)

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    1995 Fleetwood Brougham
  • Engine
    5.7L OHV V8

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  1. OK. Alternator is in the car. .04 VAC shows at the battery when idling. Within spec and far less than the 8.2VAC the old alternator showed. I also checked for current on the power lock circuit doing the voltage drop test as before. 0 mV. My fuzzy radio is also cured. I had attributed that to the power antenna, possible a problem with the antenna lead(s). Just never found a reasonably priced antenna or anything else wrong. Been that way since 2015. lol. So. Time will tell but I believe my problem is solved. Still cannot believe it was the alternator all this time.
  2. Actually yes! It was warm. I noticed it the other day. Man, if only all this knowledge could be put in one place... Wait... Can you say CaddyInfo.com? Seriously, there is so much value to this site. I try to respond to queries when I can but I only do so when I know it is correct and not some assumption that I dreamed up because I may have lucked my way through a problem. Thanks, RC
  3. Got it. Thanks Bruce. I will look that up and shop around. So, I put a new battery in the DMM as Rockfangd suggested and redid the diode test. Good call Rockfangd! It read 8.2 AC volts across the battery. Reading up on the ramifications of that and it seems clear to me the first step needs to be a new alternator. Showing that AC voltage (more than .5V) indicates a blown diode in the alternator. When the car is running it just results in dirty power. But when it is shut off, the blown diode will allow current to backfeed throughout the car wherever it can go. Last night a nei
  4. @ Bruce - Yeah, I'm thinking 2 separate problems here. I want to double down on the alternator test before going that route. Those things are expensive! (figures) @ Rockfangd - Good thought. It hadn't occurred to me. I will put a new battery in it tomorrow and give it another shot. Part of that double down thing I mentioned. 🙂 Does anyone know which particular service manual I want to track down for the power locks? Looking for electrical specs so when I get into the doors I know what the solenoids should test at. I think this is going to be a case of pulling it in the garage
  5. I just went out to pull that fuse but decided to do a Bad Alternator Diode Test first. I'm assuming you may know what that consists of. Easy stuff. My smallest AC scale on my DMM is 200V. I should see no more than .5 AC voltage at the battery. (black on black, red on red). My meter displayed 31.2 volts! I don't know if I can believe it. I see none of the usual signs of this problem like fluctuation lights, etc. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. I have not pulled the power lock fuse yet because now it's guilt is in doubt. Thanks! RC
  6. OK Folks, Time to bug you all with a very specific problem. I searched the forum and could not find info on the vehicle/problem specific enough to give me a direction. The car is a 1995 Fleetwood Brougham. Ever since I have owned it (9 years) it has had a problem I just worked around, by driving it at least once a week. The dreaded "Parasitic Power Drain". Yeah, been dodging that one. Best fix known to man - drive it. But this week the battery went dead in 4 days. I have seen signs of fluctuation in severity and have been generally observing it all this time and po
  7. In Cadillacs, 1994 - 1996. Fleetwood only. It is a good engine.
  8. I think I would replace the socket first. I only had mine opened up once but am thinking it is the usual socket configuration where the socket plugs into the back of the light body. Yours sounds like it may have a damaged wire shorting out on the socket/ground. A new socket should come with enough of a pigtail to eliminate a short as well as give you a nice clean socket.
  9. 60k miles? That is really good! Mine has 135k. Good luck with the project. Let us know how it turns out.
  10. When you have that distributor cap off check the shaft for lateral play. Mine was shot. But it didn't matter because I already planned to just replace everything. I had no interest in having to go back in there. If you need to pull the hub for the harmonic balancer save yourself some risk and use a puller that uses a pin that reaches into the crankshaft and bottoms out beyond the threads in the bolt hole. I didn't have one of those so rented it from Advance Auto. $128.00 for 45 days and you get 100% of that back. That hub is really on there tight, probably because it is not
  11. If you ever head into the distributor look up this thread here. 1995 Fleetwood Brougham Light Throttle Stumble . Way too much info there and I have not followed through with my promise to document it all. There are a few dicey areas. Save it for recreational reading. LOL. PM me if you do ever go there. I can fill in some of that missing info for you.
  12. If I remember correctly it is behind the glove box. Not too bad to get to. If I remember correctly, I took the glove box out to make it easier. That was 7 years ago so... I got it at Advance Auto. It was in stock. $134.00 if I remember right. I just wobbled along with weak heat (it isn't my daily driver) until I tore it apart last October to replace the distributor, tune it up and take care of a slew of smaller issues. The heat was better after I put it back together but still not what I would call "good". I attribute that small improvement to burping the system while the fron
  13. Hi - I have the same car. It too, put out no heat when I got it. I replaced the blend door motor and it began putting out heat. Although weak. I also suspected a clogged heater core. I did some work on it recently and took the opportunity to flush the entire system including the heater core. I ran a garden hose through it in both directions and had good flow. I tapped the garden hose into the heater hoses on the passenger side of the engine under the coolant reservoir. So I think I would have been passing water through any control valve also. I have not located a control valve
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