Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


RubberCarrot last won the day on April 28

RubberCarrot had the most liked content!

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    1995 Fleetwood Brougham
  • Engine
    5.7L OHV V8

Recent Profile Visitors

1,212 profile views

RubberCarrot's Achievements

  1. My experience with this sort of thing has not been on a Caddy but the fix to the fan noise problem might just be something simple like debris in the fan cage. Look into replacing the blower motor. In many cases it is not that tough. I did it on my truck (it made a terrible noise and output was next to nothing) and when I pulled the blower motor out (3 screws) it was 75% filled with insulation from within the duct work. Why? How? Don't know, don't care. I cleaned it out and put back and life was good. Took the replacement back to the parts store. Is that your AC problem? I doubt it. But at least it may help with the blower noise.
  2. OK. Alternator is in the car. .04 VAC shows at the battery when idling. Within spec and far less than the 8.2VAC the old alternator showed. I also checked for current on the power lock circuit doing the voltage drop test as before. 0 mV. My fuzzy radio is also cured. I had attributed that to the power antenna, possible a problem with the antenna lead(s). Just never found a reasonably priced antenna or anything else wrong. Been that way since 2015. lol. So. Time will tell but I believe my problem is solved. Still cannot believe it was the alternator all this time. smh. Now I have to let it sit for a week or so and see if it cranks. Thanks All, for your input. RC
  3. Actually yes! It was warm. I noticed it the other day. Man, if only all this knowledge could be put in one place... Wait... Can you say CaddyInfo.com? Seriously, there is so much value to this site. I try to respond to queries when I can but I only do so when I know it is correct and not some assumption that I dreamed up because I may have lucked my way through a problem. Thanks, RC
  4. Got it. Thanks Bruce. I will look that up and shop around. So, I put a new battery in the DMM as Rockfangd suggested and redid the diode test. Good call Rockfangd! It read 8.2 AC volts across the battery. Reading up on the ramifications of that and it seems clear to me the first step needs to be a new alternator. Showing that AC voltage (more than .5V) indicates a blown diode in the alternator. When the car is running it just results in dirty power. But when it is shut off, the blown diode will allow current to backfeed throughout the car wherever it can go. Last night a neighbor came over and we were hanging out in the garage. The Caddy was outside with the hood up. After about 10 minutes the under hood light turned off. As it should. But after 30 seconds or so, it came back on. Rinse and repeat. Totally made me more suspicious of the alternator theory and the retest today nailed it. Obviously all kinds of circuits are getting wake up calls when the accessory power is supposed to be off. So I can't trust the results of any of the circuits the voltage drop test pointed to. If the problem persists after the alternator replacement I will revisit that and hopefully I will have landed that manual Bruce mentioned, by then. I know some of you guys don't need all these details but I put them here for others that may be searching for the same problem one day. Sorry. 🙂 And besides. I have been driving and repairing cars for a long time now and this the first time I have seen a bad alternator function for at least 5 years. It was about that time when I had another situation where I had to rely on that 10 minute accessory power cut off (a whole 'nother saga involving the security system and a body shop that was sloppy) so I know for a certainty it is supposed to go dark after 10 minutes with the key off. Not go dark and then come back alive like I saw last night. Thanks guys. I will drop a note here when I have the alternator in place and report if it was the fix. Again, for reference for the readers out there. Hope so at 300 bucks! AC Delco. It is on order and will be here on 5/4. I'd rather drop 300 bucks than tear into the doors anyway! Fingers crossed. RC
  5. @ Bruce - Yeah, I'm thinking 2 separate problems here. I want to double down on the alternator test before going that route. Those things are expensive! (figures) @ Rockfangd - Good thought. It hadn't occurred to me. I will put a new battery in it tomorrow and give it another shot. Part of that double down thing I mentioned. 🙂 Does anyone know which particular service manual I want to track down for the power locks? Looking for electrical specs so when I get into the doors I know what the solenoids should test at. I think this is going to be a case of pulling it in the garage and opening up all four doors so I can isolate one at a time if necessary. Have to see what is going on in the RR door with the window regulator anyway. The window has lost it's ability to stay level. lol. I will report back on the alternator test tomorrow. Thanks guys. RC
  6. I just went out to pull that fuse but decided to do a Bad Alternator Diode Test first. I'm assuming you may know what that consists of. Easy stuff. My smallest AC scale on my DMM is 200V. I should see no more than .5 AC voltage at the battery. (black on black, red on red). My meter displayed 31.2 volts! I don't know if I can believe it. I see none of the usual signs of this problem like fluctuation lights, etc. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. I have not pulled the power lock fuse yet because now it's guilt is in doubt. Thanks! RC
  7. OK Folks, Time to bug you all with a very specific problem. I searched the forum and could not find info on the vehicle/problem specific enough to give me a direction. The car is a 1995 Fleetwood Brougham. Ever since I have owned it (9 years) it has had a problem I just worked around, by driving it at least once a week. The dreaded "Parasitic Power Drain". Yeah, been dodging that one. Best fix known to man - drive it. But this week the battery went dead in 4 days. I have seen signs of fluctuation in severity and have been generally observing it all this time and poking around here and there. I didn't get lucky in those efforts. So today I opted to actually do a voltage drop test at the fuse box before getting more involved with relays, actual amperage draw testing etc. (Who wants to reset all the radio stations?) So... As a reference I chose the CCM Bat feed as a baseline measurement (inferred acceptability). At the fuse, it fluctuated between pulling .6 mA and 1 mA. I went with 1 mA and after referencing this table: fuse-charts.pdf (powerprobetek.com I see this translates to a draw of 135 mA. (inferred acceptability) With that in mind I went through all the fuses. A few were pulling some current. All of the problem candidates are listed below. (read from right to left maybe) I think you will agree one circuit stands out. Power Locks. mA Result Circuit Fuse Amperage Milli Volt measured 1713 PWR Lock 20 5.5 135 CCM bat 10 1 127 RAP Bat 25 0.3 93 Park lts 20 0.3 11 HVAC Bat 10 0.6 27 Tail lts 10 0.2 212 Wiper 25 0.5 2318 Total drain So, my question: Have any of you folks, especially the long time Caddy techs, seen this and might you be able to tell me where to go, other than to h***. LOL. I know I have to get into the weeds on this. I m just hoping for some direction to start with. The locks all function as designed. There is no obvious problem. I am not in the mode to tear into all the doors but may do so eventually because I want to get inside the RR door anyway. Meanwhile, I am pulling the power lock fuse to see what that buys me. I don't think I need to get into testing amperage draw while pulling fuses. Unless one of you tells me different, I think I have my culprit. Thanks in advance for any ideas and if you want to shoot me for asking this question, please do. It will save me some work. RC
  8. In Cadillacs, 1994 - 1996. Fleetwood only. It is a good engine.
  9. I think I would replace the socket first. I only had mine opened up once but am thinking it is the usual socket configuration where the socket plugs into the back of the light body. Yours sounds like it may have a damaged wire shorting out on the socket/ground. A new socket should come with enough of a pigtail to eliminate a short as well as give you a nice clean socket.
  10. 60k miles? That is really good! Mine has 135k. Good luck with the project. Let us know how it turns out.
  11. When you have that distributor cap off check the shaft for lateral play. Mine was shot. But it didn't matter because I already planned to just replace everything. I had no interest in having to go back in there. If you need to pull the hub for the harmonic balancer save yourself some risk and use a puller that uses a pin that reaches into the crankshaft and bottoms out beyond the threads in the bolt hole. I didn't have one of those so rented it from Advance Auto. $128.00 for 45 days and you get 100% of that back. That hub is really on there tight, probably because it is not keyed. I actually went through 2 pullers because the threads gave out on the first one! I was glad I didn't blow off the cautions I had heard and just used a bolt in the crankshaft to push against. If you do just replace the cap and rotor, you won't need to remove that hub. Just the wheel part.
  12. If you ever head into the distributor look up this thread here. 1995 Fleetwood Brougham Light Throttle Stumble . Way too much info there and I have not followed through with my promise to document it all. There are a few dicey areas. Save it for recreational reading. LOL. PM me if you do ever go there. I can fill in some of that missing info for you.
  13. If I remember correctly it is behind the glove box. Not too bad to get to. If I remember correctly, I took the glove box out to make it easier. That was 7 years ago so... I got it at Advance Auto. It was in stock. $134.00 if I remember right. I just wobbled along with weak heat (it isn't my daily driver) until I tore it apart last October to replace the distributor, tune it up and take care of a slew of smaller issues. The heat was better after I put it back together but still not what I would call "good". I attribute that small improvement to burping the system while the front end was still in the air. It is the only thing that was different after trying the heater core flush for the 1st time about a year before that.
  • Create New...