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RubberCarrot last won the day on June 30

RubberCarrot had the most liked content!

About RubberCarrot

  • Rank
    Participant (30+ posts)

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  • Car Model and Year
    1995 Fleetwood Brougham
  • Engine
    5.7L OHV V8
  1. I think I would replace the socket first. I only had mine opened up once but am thinking it is the usual socket configuration where the socket plugs into the back of the light body. Yours sounds like it may have a damaged wire shorting out on the socket/ground. A new socket should come with enough of a pigtail to eliminate a short as well as give you a nice clean socket.
  2. 60k miles? That is really good! Mine has 135k. Good luck with the project. Let us know how it turns out.
  3. When you have that distributor cap off check the shaft for lateral play. Mine was shot. But it didn't matter because I already planned to just replace everything. I had no interest in having to go back in there. If you need to pull the hub for the harmonic balancer save yourself some risk and use a puller that uses a pin that reaches into the crankshaft and bottoms out beyond the threads in the bolt hole. I didn't have one of those so rented it from Advance Auto. $128.00 for 45 days and you get 100% of that back. That hub is really on there tight, probably because it is not keyed. I actually went through 2 pullers because the threads gave out on the first one! I was glad I didn't blow off the cautions I had heard and just used a bolt in the crankshaft to push against. If you do just replace the cap and rotor, you won't need to remove that hub. Just the wheel part.
  4. If you ever head into the distributor look up this thread here. 1995 Fleetwood Brougham Light Throttle Stumble . Way too much info there and I have not followed through with my promise to document it all. There are a few dicey areas. Save it for recreational reading. LOL. PM me if you do ever go there. I can fill in some of that missing info for you.
  5. If I remember correctly it is behind the glove box. Not too bad to get to. If I remember correctly, I took the glove box out to make it easier. That was 7 years ago so... I got it at Advance Auto. It was in stock. $134.00 if I remember right. I just wobbled along with weak heat (it isn't my daily driver) until I tore it apart last October to replace the distributor, tune it up and take care of a slew of smaller issues. The heat was better after I put it back together but still not what I would call "good". I attribute that small improvement to burping the system while the front end was still in the air. It is the only thing that was different after trying the heater core flush for the 1st time about a year before that.
  6. Hi - I have the same car. It too, put out no heat when I got it. I replaced the blend door motor and it began putting out heat. Although weak. I also suspected a clogged heater core. I did some work on it recently and took the opportunity to flush the entire system including the heater core. I ran a garden hose through it in both directions and had good flow. I tapped the garden hose into the heater hoses on the passenger side of the engine under the coolant reservoir. So I think I would have been passing water through any control valve also. I have not located a control valve. Curious to see what turns up in this thread. There is what seems to be, a restrictor in the upper hose. That is where I tapped in on that hose. It just has a smaller diameter opening it. I assume its job is to keep water in the core for a bit to heat things up. That restrictor has an arrow on it. Out of curiosity, I have flipped it both ways, even though it didn't make a lot of sense. No diff either way. End result is no change. But I have found that if I put the fan on low auto it gives the heater core time to collect a bit more heat before the blower blows it away. After a while I put it back on full auto and 20 minutes into a drive it is comfortable. I will say it is critical to burp that cooling system and to keep it full. Make sure you have done that. Burp it using that little valve on the thermostat housing. You will also have better luck getting all the air out if you raise the front end. I know, sounds lame but it makes a difference. Ramps are good enough. Don't let that little valve leak coolant without stuffing rags around it. It will run right down to your distributor and that is not a place you want to be headed to next. Been there, done that. Rough job. I am hoping this thread produces info on a control valve. I have even heard there isn't one.
  7. Well... That's a fail. It won't let me upload more. If anyone needs more detail or simply crave those red circles, PM me. I will provide them to you.
  8. OK. It has been a month and I have put about 800 miles on it. All is good. Very good. I promised a write up on the work but that might be really boring and long. I will hit the high spots that either surprised me or were just a bit of a puzzle. Tear down; Water pump removal. Pretty straight forward stuff. One thing I didn't expect was to have to remove the air injection pump. I was trying to disturb as little as possible because on a 24 year old car, one bolt can cause a big headache. When I saw the air injection pump had to come off it appeared simple enough but figured I would do a little research first. The info I found on the internet was a little less than exact. This is the deal on this particular car. See attached photos. 3 10 mm bolts hold the pump to it's bracket. Pump has to be removed before the bracket. My hoses were in good shape and the clamps were in good shape. I removed the intake from the air filter box and the output from where it connected to the steel plumbing up at the check valve on the drivers side exhaust manifold. Easy stuff. Throw it in the parts pile in the trunk. Bracket removal. There is one stud that serves as a water pump bolt. Remove the 14mm nut. Then remove the 14mm bolt in the center of the bracket. If you believe the internet, you are done. Don't believe the internet. There is one more 14mm bolt. You will find an arm of that bracket that for some unexplained reason, reaches down behind the distributor where the driver's side plug wires plug in. Remove the plug wires and it is not a big deal to remove. See pictures. However, you will still not be able to remove the bracket. The air injection plumbing from the drivers side exhaust manifold is attached to that bracket with a 10mm bolt (red circle in pic). It is on the back side of the bracket and was never intended to be seen by the human eye. I used a 1/4 in. drive ratchet and a 10 mm socket. Hang the ratchet down into the area with right hand finger tips and use the left hand to reach under the bracket and hold the ratchet on the bolt. Loosen it a couple turns and you are good to go. Disconnect the air injection plumbing from the driver's side exhaust manifold check valve (red circle in pic) to let the plumbing flex. Slide the bracket off the water pump bolt/stud and swing it a bit to the right and you will be able to remove the water pump. Hint: 6 bolts (5 + the one stud) to remove the water pump. 2 of those are short and seem to have little reason to exist. OK. Pictures. It may take a couple messages to get them uploaded. I will tackle the next point of interest in the next note.
  9. Update - The work is finally done. It was not fun. It was not cheap. But the outcome is outstanding based on a 20 mile test drive. Summary of work done: MSD Optispark distributor, MSD coil, MSD Super Conductor 8.5 mm plug wires, ACDelco water pump (new, not reman and I added a fitting and drain hose for the weep hole) and thermostat, ACDelco double platinum plugs, super flushed the cooling system before beginning, removed and cleaned out the reservoir, replaced almost all the vacuum hoses, some out of need, some as insurance, bypassed the throttle body (no more coolant through it) The plugs were animals. All except 3 were puzzles. The plug wires were custom fit. There was no way those fat wires were gonna run where the factory ones did. I was leery of the crimping involved but the tool they give you works well. Made a harness for each side, threaded it into place, installed/fabricated wire looms and then marked the length at each plug with a sharpie. Pulled them out and started cutting and crimping. Came out pretty nice. I test fired it with no water or air injection pump to make sure it was good before adding coolant etc. It scared me when it didn't fire. Then I realized it had no temp sensor so was not getting the rich shot of fuel as it normally would on a cold start (I remember when all that sensor did was turn on an idiot light!). Hit it with some starting fluid and it fired up. I turned out the garage lights and looked it over for arcing, above and below. Everything was nice and dark! Finished putting it together today, no leaks, no skipping, no rich smelling exhaust. Took it for a ride and it runs like a bear. Really pleased with the distributor. You can feel it hitting right on the mark, especially at higher rpms. The car never felt like that, even 7 years ago when I bought it. So I'm smilin' OldCadTech. Thanks for all your help on this. You guys are really indispensable. I will do a detailed write up of what was done and all the crazy stuff anyone else that does this on this particular car will run into. There are a few oddities that are not encountered on other cars with the same engine based on what I saw as I prepped for this undertaking. I will do that and set up a logical stream of pictures (gonna entail a lot of file shrinking). Should I post that here when ready or is there a better place for them? Thanks again. Mission accomplished +! RC
  10. Thanks - I will follow up with a rundown. This weekend is gonna be full of Cadillac work. There are a some things particular to this vehicle above and beyond the average LT1. I will follow with details after I am done. I will also put together a logical stream of pics that may help others in the future. I am fixing (or preemptive fixing) a ton of plumbing issues along the way so I keep getting side-tracked. But it's all stuff to do now so I never have to come back into the area. Stay tuned.
  11. LOL. I grew up in NY. Moved here when I was 39. NY inspections were were something to contend with! Are they really talking about 6 month intervals? Measuring thickness of rotors and killing you for a sloppy ball joint. I always had my "inspection connection". LOL. Been down here for 23 years. Probably as hard to beat the system up there as here now-a-days. Computers. The demise of us all. So I just think I found the cause of my cars' deteriorating condition. Just got home, so no work tonight but a co-worker noticed this today, in pics I took last night. I totally missed it. I will see if I can upload a couple pics. But it looks like the coil wire (at the distributor) was arcing to the back of the water pump. (bottom portion of water pump pic) Basically, wires aging out and a really tight configuration. That's cool. Go all the way or stay home is the way I play, It will be worth the work and I may find more of the same when I get to running wires. Distributor may be just fine. Water pump shaft looked good for 135 k miles. But it all needs to go because I don't want to revisit the area. BTW, that coil is gonna go too. Just waiting to get it in my hand so I get the correct one. MSD. If you guys think it's worth it, I will put together a bunch of pics when all said in done. Could be a decent reference? Let me know.
  12. Yeah... They don't even make my pump anymore. It was a $400.00 piece when they did. Boneyard/used is the only way to go now. I don't even want to consider the plumbing. Wow. But mine still works so... I'm in NC and the emissions inspection thing is a county by county game. My county is emissions free but if I move 300 feet east or in any reasonable direction/distance around me, I would be subject to the emissions inspection problem. (I'm already violating that one with the MSD unit I am putting in but you can't see it so nobody will notice) So given that it came out relatively cleanly and as long as I can complete the job without mangling it, I guess I will just put it back in and keep life simple over the long term. Thanks for the feedback. I got excited at first, thinking of the mindless hacking I was gonna get to do. 🙂
  13. OK - Question. I got the water pump off tonight after much hassle with the air injection pump and it's mounting bracket. What a goofy over engineered mess. So, that whole apparatus is gonna be a headache throughout this job. I have seen where people remove the entire system and cap off the fittings at the manifold. I have also seen arguments for retaining it, above and beyond the pollution control aspect. (back pressure requirements in the exhaust, etc) I tend to lean towards keeping it because I don't want to be the one to butcher up the car. At the same time... opportunity knocks and being a 1995 and OBD1 the computer won't gripe and the PCM would need reprogramming. So what do you guys think? Keep it or lose it? Thanks!