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jndnaps last won the day on October 15 2018

jndnaps had the most liked content!

About jndnaps

  • Rank
    Old Timer (500+ posts)
  • Birthday 11/04/1962

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Seminole, Florida. USA

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    96 DeVille, White Diamond.
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)

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  1. Yeah, been out of commission for a while and didn't get back to it till a couple weeks ago. I'd like to know what the problem is, but I'm just at the point where I just don't want to mess with it anymore. I put it on Craigslist a little over a month ago with the pics I have of the car all cleaned up before the damage and then two of the damage and mentioned the extremely hight idle and listed it for $1,200 OBO. The next morning I had almost 20 messages on it. A few were bogus, but most were interested. So if it stays this way when I'm ready to move on I'll list it for real.. Better than scraping it.. 😀 👍
  2. Yes, I re cleaned the TB and checked the return spring and all was good. The throttle cable was moving freely. I took the car to another mechanic just to ask them about a repair I need for the wifes car and they heard the high idle and looked at the car real quick. They ended up using that "Kent Moore tool - J-37027-A" that Logan was talking about and lowered the idle on it and now it idles at around 600 to 700 RPM's with the A/C on and I'm leaving the IAC unplugged and it's been fine. They did it for free. So it's been a week and I can live with it for now. Still need the car so if it stays this way I'm good to go and not worrying about it till it acts up again.
  3. Winterset, yes, I have cleaned it and that didn't work. Then I replaced it and still have the problem. So unless I got a bad one, I'm guessing that's not the problem. I wish that was it because this is driving me crazy.
  4. OK, gonna take a few days or so to get to this. Not even gonna hint as to what the heck happened to me today.. All I can say is WOW! oh, and OUCH! LOL... I'll be back.. Thanks again guys!
  5. Yes! It's really bad. When I got home and put the car in park it jumps up to 3000 + then when I restart it right away it starts around 800 to 1000.. When I first started the car it started at around 1500 cold start. Most of the time if I restart the car when sitting at a light the idle will drop down a lot.
  6. Yes, the switches light up, but they don't work anymore. The radio will change stations by itself and the volume will go up or down by itself. The A/C will change the temps to opposite of what is set. If I have it set to 60 it'll go to 90 and vise versa. Same with the fan. If it's on high, it'll go low and vise versa. Never had the airbag out or the steering wheel touched. I'll check the cables tomorrow.. Thanks!
  7. OK, Guys, sorry I disappeared for a while, but I was mega sick. Feeling a lot better now, so I'm gonna get back at this a little. Now, let me just say that I noticed earlier today when I hit the gas a few times it felt like the gas pedal was stuck. When I cleaned that TB it was spotless when I was done. There was nothing anywhere around the "butterfly?" that it would stick to. That sucker was spotless. So next week I'm gonna check the cables.. I don't think the cruise control even works anymore, so can I leave that cable off, or does it need to be on?? The only current codes it has is still the IP2511 and IP2515. See picture. Now if these are B codes, that kinda makes sense because the steering wheel controls don't work and the radio and A/C acts up like I'm messing with the steering wheel controls. B2511 - Steering Wheel Controls Conv Key Stuck.. and B2515 - Strg Whl Cont Illegal Resistance Value. This one (B2515) comes and goes between current and history. P2511 would be - ECM/PCM Power Relay Sense Circuit Intermittent and P2515 would be A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor "B" Circuit. I still have no clue how to read these correctly, but here is a pic of the code below. This is how it comes up on the on board computer. Also, I'm reading these codes through this web site. https://obdii.pro/en/model/cadillac?fbclid=IwAR001wc2SGNAKyjSIzQ9IVX_EE3kyn8SQiSIE-ilNUyWqPdFVRBTNhXP3Cc
  8. Spent 30 mins with brake cleaner trying to find anything and again nothing. The idle is so erratic that I can't really tell if I'm hitting the spot or not. What about testing to see if there is power going to the IAC and the TPS? This car's got me beat.
  9. Yes, I saw this. But I sprayed that down with the starting fluid and it did nothing at all. Wouldn't it bog down when sprayed? I hit it pretty good with that stuff.. Although I did it on a cold motor, not when it was real hot..
  10. Yeah, I'm still sick and trying to do some things that I can handle. It's a mofo to be sick and out in 90* temps trying to do this stuff. LOL.. I still think if I gotta take the intake off I'm gonna do it on a car in the junkyard first. Just don't trust myself. LOL.. No, I don't have the video.
  11. The IAC on the right in the pic looks like the one it has. I've had the car for 13 years and the intake has never been off. I put about 45K miles on the 133K total miles on it. First time the TB has been taken off in those 13 years. I had the car at a local shop and a smoke test showed smoke coming out both sides of the intake. Shop thinks the intake is cracked, but won't know for sure till they remove it. OK.. Now the one thing I didn't do was torque the bolts down. I don't have a torque wrench. But, they're on good and tight. I don't have access to a scan tool. Yes, replaced the IAC with correct one and with the o ring.
  12. No sir, the high idle has been there for months. Before and after removing the TB for cleaning. Gasket is also correct and put on correct. I made sure to be extra careful with the gasket when Rock mentioned he installed one of his the wrong way. Took pics and compared the new one to the original that I removed in two pieces. I probably should have removed the spacer and replaced the O Ring though. I'm gonna get a new can of brake cleaner and spray around the spacer again before I go back and remove the TB one more time. I'll go back and check more of the wiring and I'll check that return spring. I also changed the IAC and the TPS. Doesn't mean one or both are still bad. Wouldn't be the first time I got a new part that was bad. Also need to check if they're getting power. Probably need someone to tell me how to do that, too. LOL.. Let me ask you, you're saying an "IAC speed motor." is that the same as the "Idle Air Control Valve"? or is that another part? Thanks for the info!
  13. I've checked it a few times and it's always closed. After cleaning the TB and the plate/butterfly, that thing was spotless. It looked brand new. I used TB cleaner and a toothbrush. I've also done what you did, put the car in neutral and mashed the gas and that did nothing. In fact, if anything it made it go higher. Not sure about how to do that. It seems to be at the stop, but I'll re check. Don't know how to remove the cables. I'll check and see if there are any videos. Yes, I'm in very hot and sunny Florida. Yes, there is one other wire, a pink one, that is a little scraped up. Will fix that one too. I've gone over a lot of stuff, but will do it again. PVC is good and those hoses were replaced by the first shop that looked at it. I'll check the MAP. I checked the brake booster 90° plastic adapter and hose and even sprayed them with starting fluid. No real change of the idle. I can't get my fingers in there to check the anti backfire valve. But, I did spray it down with starting fluid and there was no difference in the idle. I did spray the starting fluid between the brake booster and the TB and I did notice the idle get higher in that area. Closer to the TB. I ran out of starting fluid though. I was thinking of removing the TB again and this time remove the spacer and replace that O Ring. I didn't take the spacer off the first time. Also, that's the one area where the smoke was coming out when they did the smoke test.
  14. With the car running, or off? I've already checked a few times with it off and it's closed.