Leaderboard

The sheetmetal stays the same.....but the exterior and interior colors often change yearly. Interior parts typically fall off the 'available' dealer parts pretty quick....a couple of years after production.....simply not enough warehouse space to store 3000 spare 2001 Eldo left slate A pillar trim panels. The aftermarket headliner colors are pretty generic.....maybe a couple of grays....a couple of tans....black.....etc. They will never match exactly unless you redo both A pillars and the headliner....and B and C pillars at the same time too. In other words....you will never find a sheet of '154' slate. Some headliner material does have thinner foam backing material.....it's hard to find but it is out there. Best bet is to wait and just keep searching for the right parts car.

I sure will. Right now it's having some minor work done to it and next week it's going in for a Fresh coat of paint

Is this with the front wheels off the ground and engine at idle? When the wheels are on the ground and you give it a bit of throttle in Reverse, does the car move forward? Does the car surge against the Park pawl when you give it a bit of throttle in Park? This is the FSM entry for "Forward motion in N: Checks Causes DEFINITION: Forward Motion in Neutral Forward Clutch Housing Feed hole plugged, inspect tower Forward Clutch Piston Jammed Forward Clutch Plates Seized or jammed Forward Clutch Springs Jammed Forward/Coast Clutch Support Hub Holes plugged Manual Valve Mispositioned or stuck Shift Linkage • Mispositioned • Disconnected The only do-it-in-the-driveway DIY check that is listed is to check the shift linkage. The FSM drawing of the cable attachment to the transmission: 1 - where the cable attaches to the transmission. This may be disconnected in your case. 2 - cable holder, with adjustment. The FSM adjustment process follows. Range Selector Lever Cable Adjustment Notice: Adjust the shift control cable only while the transaxle and the gear selector are in NEUTRAL. Failure to do so may cause mis-adjustment. Set the parking brake and chock the wheels. Remove the shift cable terminal from the transmission manual shaft lever pin. Pry on the shift cable terminal at the manual shaft lever pin with an appropriate tool. Prying or pulling up on any other part of the shift cable may result in damage to the shift cable . Fully lift the adjuster lock button. Ensure that the adjuster is free to move. Place the transmission manual shaft lever in (N) Neutral. In order to find (N) Neutral, rotate the lever fully counterclockwise to (P) Park, and then clockwise 2 clicks into (N) Neutral. Place the gear shifter inside the car to the (N) Neutral position. Use the transmission shift indicator on the console to find (N) Neutral. From under the hood, grasp the shift cable terminal and pull it toward the pin on the manual shaft lever. The shift cable adjuster spring should compress as the terminal is moved toward the pin. Attach the pin to the lever by pushing down carefully until it snaps. Do not pull the terminal beyond the pin and then push back. This action could move the shifter out of (N) Neutral. Press the adjuster lock button down flush with the adjuster body. Shift to (P) Park and release the parking brake while applying the service brake. Start the engine and assure all of the indicated gear positions match the vehicle response.

The factory Bose Gold Edition stereo seemed difficult to hack. However, after studying some other GM forums, I decided the best was was through the CD audio wiring. Really, who listens to CD much anyway? The hack is dead easy. There are two plugs going to the CD (same as the tape player also). The larger plug with mostly brown wires controls the functions of the player and is left plugged in. The smaller three wire plug is the audio output from the CD player. The red is the left channel, the tan is the right and the black shielded center is the ground. I simply connected snipped the plug off and soldered my jack wires to the the wires which go the the main circuit board. A CD must be in the unit, as it fools the radio into thinking the CD is sending the music. But it is actually your MP3 player, Iphone or whatever. The radio does not know the difference. You can switch back to AM/FM by simply pressing the ST/PL button, or ejecting the CD. Works great. Cost me about an hours time and $4 for the jack. Have a nice day........

It did help. I had no functionality to my left rear door. Spent a few hours trying to figure it out- had primary power and ground. Ended up removing the harness completely from the door to find two completely broken wires, the primary ground holding on by a single strand, and the rest in pretty bad shape. Have them all fixed now- find out tomorrow if this restores functionality and clears the U1000 (no communication with body module) code. Thank you for the tip. I am terrible at electrical stuff and you enabled me to potentially fix this myself instead of paying the dealer $1100 to find and fix the broken wires.

I think adding to the problem is there are 2 very similar named solenoids. There is a: EVAP purge solenoid. (Located under the hood) p0443. EVAP vent solenoid (Located on the evap cansister or on some other cars on the gas tank) p0449. The underhood ones (for me) seem to be more problematic than the gas tank ones. Have seen several cause a 'no code, no start after fill up issue'. Could get the issue to move to an identical car by swapping the evap purge sensor.

Good job, nice report. I would add be cautious with eye protection when spraying PB Blaster or other penetrant if you are lying under the item you are spraying (ask me how I know).

I did it on my 1996 and 97s. Was pretty involved. I did mine at the cd changer and used cds with silent tracks. I can get into details if you have a cd changer in the trunk. Not sure on the 95 though. That is the last year for that design. I assume you would have to do it at the amp behind the back seat. You could do it with the cassette. Let me know what you think

Hi, I'm new here. just got my 1st Caddy last week. I had the exact same problem as you. I pulled the door panel, ready to replace the module and noticed 2 broken wires at the door jam. Also had 2 or 3 with the insulation torn. After some research, here and on the Net, I found that this is very common. Note the way the harness has to bend at one point, behind the panel. Saved myself $120 for the module, hope this helps.