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Sorry I disappeared I work nights, but everything going on with the car is encouraging we going to get back at it this weekend, and I'll keep you posted on how it goes.

Recheck the firing order Check for spark Check plug gap, I believe .035 (wow out of the cob webs) Check that the coil is powered correctly Did you check that the timing chain marks on the cam gear lined up? Fuel pressure, (using OEM pump?) Pull top of carb over check fuel level and that the float is free Choke slightly open, not tight closed Spray starting fluid in carb, does it start? Hold foot to the floor, see if it starts Check compression, add table spoon of oil to each cylinder if low. (I think you did this) Never stand in front of engine when cranking (your hair will get singed off don't ask how I know that lol)

I was thinking if you were nearby, I would try to get to you. That would be fun to watch and bring me back.

We're going to get at it again today. Thanks for that info, we're going to try it and see what happens. I'll keep you posted Dolton Illinois, south of Chicago

last one I had was a freightliner and the Transmission module kept dropping out. All fuses tested good. When plug to TCM was unplugged wire tested good. When plugged in it lacked about 4 volts. So rather than 12 it had 8. That fuse caused a tow bill because when the Transmission module goes down the bus goes nowhere.

I don't want to reinvent the wheel here, or assume you have not done this but its pretty easy. Just bring the engine to TDC, #1 on the compression stroke, ZERO on the timing mark, install the distributor so that the pointer on the rotor is EXACTLY at the #1 terminal on the cap. That should be enough to get you started. Where are you located? Mike

Has anyone experienced transmission oil leak through its main plug? Connector is full of fuid after disconnecting. No other spot seems to make sense. Thx. Milan

Ok, I have done some research. There may be a misprint in the FSM, I am going to try secondary sources. There is a confusion in CKT (circuit) 639 and CKT 539, with a possible misprint I am looking into it further In the print below, they show CKT 639 feeding the ICM directly using a 20 amp fuse (I believe this fuse is called DISTR not PCM (IGN)) I am thinking that they have this circuit mis-labled as 639 and it should be 539. If you look above you notice CKT 639 feeding the PCM at 2 locations (C1-37 & C2-19). This may or may not be an issue but we need to proceed like it is an issue. Besides testing for voltage at the 2 points I spoke about in my prior posting, test for power at the DISTR fuse, with the engine idling. As you can see, if this circuit has problems, it feeds the ignition circuit. I still need to find out what the wire that breaks out at S124 and connects at C2-19 on the PCM controls, I need a scan like the one below showing the PCM circuitry off C2-19. High resistance at S124 may be hurting the voltage supply to C2-19 driving the PCM crazy. When you test for voltage at the PCM (IGN) fuse we will know more. I am going to the library to get into Alldata and see what they have Let me know what you find. Have patience

Analysis: Ignition 1 and Ignition Supplement are powered any time the key is in the CRANK, RUN or ACC positions. Ignition 0 is powered in ALL key positions except LOCK and CRANK So, Ignition 0 and Ignition 1, are powered when the key is in RUN, that is when the test is run to determine that the voltage is within 2 volts OR....P1634 is set. Tasks > 1) determine where Ignition 0 and Ignition 1 obtain their voltage (they get it from 2 different fuses), 2) test the voltage on Ignition 0 (terminal 18) verses the voltage on Ignition 1 (terminal 19). Obviously without testing for voltage we know that it is different because the P1634 is set. >>>>>>>>>Test the voltage at the fuses at IGN 0 (ENG) and PCM (IGN) and report back <<<<<<<< Once you tell us the voltages we will know more. (my guess is.... that you will find the same voltage at the fuses, but lets see) I have read elsewhere that P1634 is like a 'safe mode' of the PCM Rock's advice of replacing the fuse is good but test voltages at the fuses first. You can use your volt meter when the engine is running to test the voltage (put the voltmeter on the lowest scale that covers 12 volts) by touching the contact points on the fuse. Report back what you find in voltage when the engine is running.. I would do these tests BEFORE messing with intake gaskets and cracked or leaking intakes, P codes MUST be eliminated first.

P1634 CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION The PCM is powered with 5 power feeds. Two of these feeds are from the battery, the other three are from the ignition switch and are called Ignition 1, Ignition Supplement and Ignition 0. Ignition 1 and Ignition Supplement are powered any time the key is in the CRANK, RUN or ACC positions. Ignition 0 is powered in ALL key positions except LOCK and CRANK. This diagnostic test is used to monitor the voltages received by the PCM at connector C1 terminals 18 and 19. When the engine is running, the PCM will compare the Ignition 1 voltage it receives at connector C1 terminal 19 to the Ignition 0 voltage it receives at connector C1 terminal 18. If the Ignition 1 and Ignition 0 voltages are more than 2 volts different for 5 seconds, DTC P1634 will set. CONDITIONS FOR RUNNING THE DTC Engine running CONDITIONS FOR SETTING THE DTC Voltage difference between Ignition 1 (PCM C1-19) and Ignition 0 (PCM C1-18) inputs greater than 2 volts for 5 seconds. ACTION TAKEN WHEN THE DTC SETS The PCM will illuminate the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) when the diagnostic runs and fails. The PCM will record operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. This information will be stored in the Freeze Frame and Failure Records. CONDITIONS FOR CLEARING THE MIL/DTC The PCM will turn the MIL OFF after three consecutive drive trips that the diagnostic runs and does not fail. A Last Test Failed (current) DTC will clear when the diagnostic runs and does not fail. A History DTC will clear after forty consecutive warm-up cycles with no failures of any emission retated diagnostic test. PCM battery voltage is interrupted. Using a Scan tool. DIAGNOSTIC AIDS If this DTC is intermittent check terminal contact at the PCM and the condition of the CKT 639 splice for an intermittent open condition. A short to unswitched battery voltage on the Ignition 11 Ignition Supplement circuit will set this DTC. Symptoms associated with this condition include the inability to shut the engine OFF using the ignition switch. If the Ignition 0 to the PCM is lost the vehicle will still run but some outputs may not function, if the Ignition 1 voltage is lost or goes below 5.5 volts the vehicle will not run but DTC P1634 should set. ******************* I am doing more research, will come back today

😄 cool

Replace all 3 transmission lines. Hope for the best. SOmetimes the damage is already done but there is a good chance that it will be ok. as long as it was not revved too much while low on fluid

The RS 0061 is the left rear height position sensor. IIRC. I also think if you had intake leaks on both sides you would for sure have lean codes. So I am skeptical there. If the intake was cracked it may vary the leak as it may open as the engine gets warmed up. Let me do some more research on that 1634 code. I would not have them touch anything unless you know for sure that they have a proper diagnosis. Otherwise it is just wasting money and opening up more can of worms. Do you have a multimeter? Need to find the pinouts that pertain to that and verify if it is a wire or a pcm issue. Ok so just off the top. Pin 19(PINK) at PCM goes to the underhood fuse panel. 10 amp fuse. labeled ign 1. Start easy. 1. Replace the fuse. Dont care if it is blown or not. Check and report condition of pins. 2. If there is any corrosion that box needs to be pulled and closely inspected. 3. Disconnect battery. Pull fuse, ohm the pink wire from the fuse to the pcm plug pin 19. Report 4. For a good reference touch the 2 leads together on the multimeter and that number would be your 0. If you are not comfortable with this then you need to have someone experienced do this

I would hold off on the MAF with no code.

Glad to hear you finally received it. Let us know how we can help. PS, love the shop you are in, very bright, I need a shop like that!

Just re checked.. Current codes are: P1634 - P2511 - C0073 History are: P1599 - P1644 - P1552 - P2510 - P2515 - P1558 - RS0061 - IR2255 -

I suspect you have either worn out brushes, or the common problem of sand and oil getting injested by your alrernator. One thing you can try is to disconnect the battery, rwmove the plastic shield, and metal access port, then using a small finished nail, stick it in the hole on the back of the alternator closest to the center shaft. Wiggle it a little to move the brushes, and free them if they are stuck in sand. Then spray some wd-40 into The hole to wash away some grease that could be holding the brushes back. Then insert the nail Again, and wiggle it. If you are up to it, you can remove the alternator, disassemble it, and clean out all the sand and oil from the inside. Use the finished nail in the hole to hold the brushes back as its placed back on the shaft. Be sure to mark the alternator prior to disassembly so you know how the two halves fit back in place. i either case, do not spray too much wd-40 as if too much floods the bearings, it could thin out the grease i side it, and cause it to get washed out of the bearing housing leading to a shorter bearing life.

There is a range of timing adjustment for the distributor. That range is often limited because of the vacuum advance and nearby obstructions. (intake manifold, firewall etc) If the distributor does not get 'timed' correctly with the engine.... within that range....you can get slow cranks. So you may have to pull it out several times.....and mess with the drive gear slot... to get it timed in correctly with the engine. You really cant just drop the distributor in and crank it up. You do have to fuss with them a little to get it set up right.

If the ignition timing is off it can do that.

Good morning!! Need a RH Rear Fender Body Side Molding for 1973 Cadillac Coupe deVille. Any help would really be appreciated.

I always like to give a "disposition report" at the end of these sagas. Short form: It was the spark plug wires. Two days of driving and not a bobble in any of it. When the set that was on it was removed two that were on the firewall side showed evidence of burning on the plug end. I am wondering if this is just age or if there could have been a problem putting them back on when the plugs were changed last year. I'll never know for certain. I'm just glad things are back to normal and my daily driver is just that again.

Thanks, I still have the Riviera! My first car!

Really loved my 03 SLS, but at 174k it was starting to show her age. Always wanted a CTS, was hooked after I did that V-Series Performance lab back in 2011! This isn’t a CTS-V, but a good fit for me... it’s a 09 CTS-4 with the 3.6 direct injection motor. Two previous owners were brothers and treated this creampuff with meticulous care! It has 98k on it, but has the appearance of practically a new vehicle! My kinda purchase for sure! Will update with pics soon! Have to resize before posting

Heres a few quick pictures finally! Haven't even had a chance to drive it in over a week! Excited for the commute tomorrow now!

Just did a 99 deville in my driveway without dropping the engine with timeserts-can be done but I will not do it again-car runs great and no issues and have put about 3000 Miles on since-have a 99 eldo to do also and will definitely drop engine this time-bought both of these cars for 300$ a piece because people are afraid to work on them-may buy more if I find ones as nice as these-don’t be afraid and take your time-it’s a learning experience!