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93SixtySpecial

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93SixtySpecial last won the day on July 31 2013

93SixtySpecial had the most liked content!

About 93SixtySpecial

  • Rank
    Enthusiast (250+ posts)
  • Birthday May 23

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    '06 DTS 175k - '93 60 Special 190k
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mapleton, ND
  • Interests
    Camping, Fishing, Boating and of course, driving my Cadillac.
  1. Interesting. What was the bulletin for? I was reading online that there is a stepper motor inside that may have gotten damaged. I wasn't very forceful when opening the throttle plate, so I'm hoping that's not the issue. It's very odd because some days it seems perfectly fine, some days it's idling semi fast, and others it has a mix. I'm going to try disconnecting the battery for at least an hour and try re-cleaning it with a toothbrush to make sure I really get in there. Then I'm going to try a few different relearn procedures I found. I found an article that said there were 6 differe
  2. I spoke too soon. It's still acting strange, but it's not as bad as it has been before. I noticed something interesting while doing a few wide open throttle runs. When I took my foot off the throttle, it was slowing down, but VERY slowly. It would almost hold the speed at 70 and it almost sounded like the throttle was still open slightly. Then after a few seconds, it drastically changed and slowed down much quicker (what I would think would be more normal). It did this fairly consistently throughout the procedure. I wouldn't think this is normal, but this is a slightly different beast
  3. On Tuesday the car started idling normally. Every time I tested it, it wouldn't start accelerating like before. I'm assuming at this point that it was the throttle that needed to be relearned and it did so after some time. I'm also noticing that when I let off the gas on the highway, the instant economy is now going to 70MPG again. After my idle problem, it wouldn't go much higher than 40-50 MPG when slowing. It appears my mileage is getting better too (around 30 going 60). I just received my replacement air duct as well. I don't believe that was the cause or even added to the situatio
  4. ​I would think I would get a lean code, but maybe it's not enough to throw a light? Also, I did verify that my check engine light is not burnt out if anyone was curious. I think I'm going to invest in a code reader that can actually read this car. I sure do miss onboard diagnostics. I don't believe it has an ISC since it's electronic throttle. I made sure that the back and edges were cleaned thoroughly and made sure it moved freely when I was finished (both times). I cleaned it in place and cleaned it with a rag and some O2 sensor safe carb cleaner. I only cleaned as far as I could rea
  5. Sorry for not posting last night. It got a little late. No mat stuck under the pedal, so we're good there! It did start right after I cleaned the throttle body, but I also had changed tranny fluid, replaced air filter, replaced serpentine belt, and broke the nipple off of the air duct. It's definitely possible it might still need a relearn. Is there a way to do it myself or do you have to have the PCM reset? I first visually inspected the coupler with a mirror and it appeared fine. I went around to all the areas where there could be a vacuum leak (PCV hoses and ports, plenum coupler, air
  6. ​I just checked the outside of the coupler this morning of the rubber coupler, but I'll thoroughly check it tonight when the engine cools down a bit. Yep, I did a throttle body clean. This is at least the 3rd electronic throttle I have cleaned on multiple GMs, but this is the only one I've had an issue afterwards (could be a vacuum leak like everyone including myself is suspecting). No check engine lights though. I will check the floor mat! At least that would be an easy fix. I haven't tried carb cleaner yet, but I was going to tonight after I check the coupler. Does anyone have any
  7. Hello, After driving a Buick for a while, I decided to go back to a Caddy. I was performing some maintenance and after I was finished, my idle was not correct. By the way, this is a 2006 DTS vin Y. It's tough to detect a pattern, but in drive it runs around 1100-1200 RPM without touching the gas. Sometimes if I apply the brake and come to a complete stop, it fixes itself and goes down to around 800ish. After about 3 seconds if I let off the brake, it will creep back up to that 1100-1200 RPM range and start accelerating. I'm not exactly sure of the precise RPM because my code reader is too o
  8. What was the cause for the slightly lower HP rating? Not that 8 HP makes a huge difference, but I'm just curious. Did you do the repair yourself for the P0741? How tough was that to do? I typically do all my own repairs, but I haven't tackled internally on an FWD tranny.
  9. Hello everyone, It's been a while since I've been on here because I moved to a Buick for a while. I've realized that I cannot be without my Cadillacs! So, I'm looking at a 2006 DTS. I'm not sure if it's the performance package or not because I haven't seen the VIN quite yet. I have a few questions for the folks on here. Is it still the 4T80E transmission and if so, is the P0741 code as common on this year or have they resolved that issue? Out of my 12 Cadillacs that I have owned, 6 of them have been the northstar and half of those had the code. What have they changed, if anything, on
  10. Hello all, I'm posting this for my father-in-law who is having some issues with his Cadillac. Hope someone has some ideas! 2003 Cadillac Deville, base model, 118,000 miles. Prior problems: NONE Background: No problems prior with car. Worked perfect. Had doors open for a few hours while cleaning seats and dash. Key was NOT in the ignition. Suspect battery went dead as car would not start after the cleaning. No liquids were used during cleaning. Problem: Battery went dead from doors being open too long (we think). Tried to jump it under the hood and it would not start. Took battery o
  11. Thanks for the replies. I'm a little nervous about fiddling with the air bag. Do I have to disable the airbag or can I just unhook the battery to disable it?
  12. Sorry about that, I put that is was in regards to the sixty special in the title, but not in the topic itself. From what your FSM says, it sounds like it fits the bill. Do you have to pull the steering wheel? I'm assuming you do.
  13. I've been fighting a strange issue with my left turn signal. It was intermittently working and then it just quit, so I figured it was the flasher. I replaced the flasher and I hear it working, but only the rear turn signal is flashing, not the front and there is still no indicator lighting up on the dash. I thought maybe it was the bulb, so I replaced the bulb, but that wasn't it either. I know there is proper ground and power going there because when I turn the 4-ways on, the bulb works. I'm at a loss on where to go next. Any ideas?
  14. It seems there is some miscommunication somewhere here. I had mentioned in earlier posts that I was referring to the calibration of the actual pressure itself, not the LF, RF, etc and that my manual only states to see a dealer, but that's not what I was looking for anyway. I still have not found a way to calibrate them and I'm thinking there isn't a way to do it. HOWEVER, I found out that 3 of my dial gauges are all accurate...to each other. I bought a digital gauge and just like KHE's gauge reads, it's DEAD on. Needless to say I am retiring my dial gauges.
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