Only Topics

Showing topics posted in for the last 365 days.

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. @sonjaab 1995 Chevy S10 steering wheel https://www.carid.com/1995-chevy-s-10-pickup-steering-wheels/
  3. Dont have solution for you....maybe find a used dash pad up north? There are companies that do testing for UV degration of automotive parts for GM etc. That said...the parts dont last forever. On a cruise in the Caribbean...saw a parked Nissan that every fricking plastic part on that car had UV damage.....inside and out...... Unfortunally I did not have a camera in hand. Lots of yards will not sell air bags....unbelievable liability issues. Anyway.....Arizona parts testing. http://www.aztest.com/index.html
  4. A whining similar to a power steering whine is a tel tale sign of a failing torque converter. It will usually be louder when cold and then drop a bit when warmed up. This is a big job to replace a TC on a Northstar FWD. It would cost approx $1,500 in California, parts and labor.
  5. Play it safe. Go to a junkyard and take one out of '98 or later. If you already installed the amber units, but did not use their plug, then that could be the problem with them not programming. The amber light units have a three trace plug and circuit board connector, the red light unit have two trace; not interchangeble. I already installed the unit, so I may have a hard time taking a picture of the new plug, but I can take pic of the old plug. They are both two wire plugs. The red light uni ('97 and older) unit has an orange wire and black wire. The amber light unit has an orange wire and a blue /white wire. Crimp the orange to orange, and the black to the blue/white. The picture shows the two and three trace units, that why you need the plug also when making this changeover to a '98 and later unit.
  6. stsjoe

    I'M BACK!

    Still love the car but a problem has reared its ugly head, the passive entrance? has quite on the drivers side doors not the passenger side and I only see one fuse and its good
  7. Yesterday
  8. This has me thinking. Both of my 97s will not program to my garage door opener. I thought they were amber though. (I installed them) I have never found one that had a different plug. I have a spare as well. Thank you for posting this. I wish you had a picture of the 2 plugs to see the difference. If I ever get back to it I will post back here.
  9. Hell all........ I am heading to Fla Mon. to scope out some 89-95 Chevy s-10 4x4s. Not many out there that aint all butchered up. I got my eye on a 93 Deville grampas ride family wans to dump for $900! Needs a little TLC but has 77k miles! Anyhoo......I note in all the truck ads there are covers on the steering wheels! I wonder why they crumble like that down south and how to fix! But having lived own there and GMs crummy plastics I know why! Prob. best bet to get a new steering wheel at a NY pic a part yard but the yards I have been in lately wont sell a steering wheel with a air bag? Maybe be back with a truck and another Caddy!
  10. My '95 Seville has the Homelink with the red lamp. Nothing I could do would program my garage door opener, because of the "rolling code" garage door openers these days. After researching, I have found that GM vehicles '97 and under have the Homelink red lamp system which worked with the non rolling code garage openers. Beginning in 1998 mode year, Homelink then switched to the amber light system, which means they are equipped to program the rolling code garage door openers of today. Off to the junk yard I went today. Got really lucky, found a '99 Deville, and removed the Homelink transmitter, needing only a phillips screw drivers and wire snip pliers. The harness is NOT interchangeable between the red and amber systems. You must take the harness plug with it (just snip the two wires a few inches away from the transmitter). I did a bench test first before I installed into the car to make sure it was going to work (just connected a 9v battery for the power), and it worked. It installs in the standard bracket with just a little patience, and cut the old harness plug off the harness, and crimped in the new one, cleared it, programmed it to the controller remote, and it now works !!!! Long story short: if you have a '97 or earlier car, and a newer garage door opener, throw away the red lamp Homelink and install the amber light unit.
  11. Ill get back when I can, I am working on a Holley carburetor right now and wiring a house for CAT6 and digital coax. Ill pop back when I can. Stay organized. Post facts. I dont have a manual for your year without going to the library and using alldata. You might check to see what your local library has for online data like Alldata. It is VERY good. Maybe someone else will pop in and be able to scan the info for your year. I only have 91, 93, 94, 96 and 98. You really should get a factory service manual.
  12. Last week
  13. I got a obd from a buddy that's better than mine so I'm gonna put everything back together and run the obd stand by
  14. What I said above was not meant to be harsh in any way, nor was it to refuse to help, with 17,000 plus posts here, my primary aim is to help. We here are dependent upon receiving accurate and timely answers to questions we ask you. When you say "AGAIN, no p codes" , it sends our diagnosis off into the wrong direction and we waste time. Given that your battery has been disconnected, fuses have been pulled and the battery is weak ANY CODE you extract with your code reader is suspect, that is why I said FULLY CHARGE battery. Your situation is further complicated as the PCM can not complete a drive cycle to permit the PCM to run all tests. A typical drive cycle is shown in the photo below. So, you may have problems that would normally set a trouble code that can't be tested for. After going back and forth for days we find out, that yes, there are P codes, U0101-the TCM (transmission control module) lost communication, the ABS sensor wire is ripped out, the fuse box is ripped out, the manual shift cable is disturbed and the TRANS-IGN3 fuse that appears to be related to the TCM was blown at some point. DO NOT ACT on this thread, I am only posting it here for informational purposes ONLY. But here is a person who is having Trans-IGN3 fuses blow, it was related to the TCM, so your U0101 Network code for TCM lost communication appears related to that fuse blowing. I posted above, a link to a U0101 causing a transmission to SLIP. Your transmission is slipping. I would check codes again, to see if you still have a current U0101 lost communication TCM and make sure that fuse didn't blow again. Your transmission is capable of setting the following P or powertrain codes, that is the reason we look at P codes. You will see there is even a code for slipping. You should, fully charge battery, check the FUSE, reassemble the manual cable correctly, clear all codes, get the car on a lift again, and let the transmission run through the gears a few times and move the manual selector to each position. Then look for all codes. P0700 - Transmission Control System Malfunction P0701 - Transmission Control System Range/Performance P0702 - Transmission Control System Electrical P0703 - Brake Switch Circuit Malfunction P0704 - Clutch Switch Input Circuit Malfunction P0705 - Trans Range Switch Circuit P0706 - Trans Range Switch Performance P0707 - Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Low Input P0708 - Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input P0709 - Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Intermittent P0710 - Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction P0711 - TFT Sensor Circuit Range/Performance P0712 - Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) Sensor Circuit Low Input P0713 - Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) Sensor Circuit High Input P0714 - Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent P0715 - Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction P0716 - Input Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent P0717 - Input Speed Sensor Circuit Low Input P0718 - Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent P0719 - Brake Switch Circuit Low Input P0720 - Output Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction P0721 - Output Speed Sensor Range/Performance P0722 - Output Speed Sensor Circuit Low Input P0723 - Output Speed Sensor Intermittent P0724 - Brake Switch Circuit High Input P0725 - Engine Speed Input Circuit P0726 - Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance P0727 - Engine Speed Circuit No Signal P0728 - Engine Speed Input Circuit Intermittent P0730 - Incorrect Gear Ratio P0731 - Incorrect 1st Gear Ratio P0732 - Incorrect 2nd Gear Ratio P0733 - Incorrect 3rd Gear Ratio P0734 - Incorrect 4th Gear Ratio P0735 - Gear 5 Incorrect ratio P0736 - Reverse incorrect gear ratio P0740 - TCC Enable Solenoid Circuit Electrical P0741 - TCC System Stuck Off P0742 - TCC System Stuck On P0743 - TCC Enable Solenoid Circuit Electrical P0744 - Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Intermittent P0745 - Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction P0746 - Pressure Control Solenoid Performance or Stuck Off P0747 - Pressure Control Solenoid Stuck On P0748 - Pressure Control Solenoid Circuit Electrical P0749 - Pressure Control Solenoid Intermittent P0750 - Shift Solenoid A Malfunction P0751 - 1-2 Shift Solenoid Valve Performance - No First or Fourth Gear P0752 - 1-2 Shift Solenoid Valve Performance - No Second or Third Gear P0753 - 1-2 Shift Solenoid Circuit Electrical P0754 - Shift Solenoid A Intermittent P0755 - Shift Solenoid B Malfunction P0756 - 2-3 Shift Solenoid Valve Performance - No First or Second Gear P0757 - 2-3 Shift Solenoid Valve Performance - No Third or Fourth Gear P0758 - 2-3 Shift Solenoid Circuit Electrical P0759 - Shift Solenoid B Intermittent P0760 - Shift Solenoid C Malfunction P0761 - Shift Solenoid C Performance or Stuck Off P0762 - Shift Solenoid C Stuck On P0763 - Shift Solenoid C Electrical P0764 - Shift Solenoid C Intermittent P0765 - Shift Solenoid D Malfunction P0766 - Shift Solenoid D Performance or Stuck Off P0767 - Shift Solenoid D Stuck On P0768 - Shift Solenoid D Electrical P0769 - Shift Solenoid D Intermittent P0770 - Shift Solenoid E Malfunction P0771 - Shift Solenoid E Performance or Stuck Off P0772 - Shift Solenoid E Stuck On P0773 - Shift Solenoid E Electrical P0774 - Shift Solenoid E Intermittent P0780 - Shift Malfunction P0781 - 1-2 Shift Malfunction P0782 - 2-3 Shift Malfunction P0783 - 3-4 Shift Malfunction P0784 - 4-5 Shift Malfunction P0785 - 3-2 Shift Solenoid Circuit Electrical P0786 - Shift/Timing Solenoid Range/Performance P0787 - Shift/Timing Solenoid Low P0788 - Shift/Timing Solenoid High P0789 - Shift/Timing Solenoid Intermittent P0790 - Normal/Performance Switch Circuit Malfunction P0801 - Reverse Inhibit Control Circuit Malfunction P0803 - 1-4 Upshift (Skip Shift) Solenoid Control Circuit Malfunction P0804 - 1-4 Upshift (Skip Shift) Lamp Control Circuit Malfunction P0850 - Park/Neutral Position (PNP) Switch Circuit P0856 - Powertrain Indicated Traction Control Malfunction P0894 - Transmission Component Slipping P0897 - PCM detects a calculated transmission fluid life of 10 percent or less
  15. Shale and Cashmere are two different shades; hence the different names. CCC
  16. Thx again for posting the info from the service bulletin. Looks like my dealer's technicians learned about this for the first time trying to reprogram the salvage module I installed. Just to finish up this thread, the last thing I tried was complete disassembly of the module (which has about 5 different circuit boards layered in the chassis) to see if I could locate a board with an eeprom containing the VIN. I was unable to locate an eeprom on any of the boards, but decided the VIN was probably stored on one of the 2 boards with CAN bus interfaces on them (audio board and main board). I tried swapping out each of these boards for boards from the module with the non-matching VIN. When the audio board was swapped out, the module remained locked, but when the main board was swapped out with my original board, the system unlocked. Unfortunately, the main board with my correct VIN was probably also the board that was not functioning correctly in my original system, since I am now back to the original functionality (only some aspects of the system work). Bottom line seems to be that the simplest solution may be to just buy a new, unprogrammed module.
  17. I would say do not let 2 at the same time be within range. If one is in the car leave it there and don't bring another within range. It is at least worth a shot.
  18. This situation keeps developing. "stumbled upon a blown trans ign 3 fuse" If I didnt know better I would think I am on candid camera or someone is jerking my chain. My advice, take a mortgage on your house and find a local technician that knows this car well. A tranny rebuild is $2800 if you need it. Think about us as BLIND MEN on this side of keyboard and we are dependent upon you to give us ALL information in order for us to help you. The way this has developed in a piece meal dripping out of sequence way is not a productive use of my time or your time and it makes diagnosis near impossible. You have a complex car there with complex problems and to google negative engine torque last night made me realize that you don't understand the way this system and I say SYSTEM, works. You discounted the U0101 lost communication with the transmission control module, that caused another vehicle to slip, which is your symptom, whilst having a weak battery that acts funny according to you (a bad battery can cause fits) and you just decide to throw in that you found a blown trans ign3 fuse, that might be related to the TCM! You sent me 12 pages of codes last night friday with many failed tests and codes after saying >>>AGAIN<<< NO P CODES on Tuesday, see photo below. Again? The OBD system isn't event ready at this point to know what codes are set plus you can't drive it to do a drive cycle. See photo for an example of tests not run because the drive cycle isn't completed. Many codes won't set without the vehicle moving like the VSS or ABS systems and you can't move the vehicle. It is necessary to be receptive and open to ideas with something this complicated. You have replaced parts you didn't need to replace, messed with the manual shift cable, pulled out the fuse box, and are looking to replace a pump that is an extremely advanced job for anyone without having done pressure testing with a guage. Parts replacing is the worst thing to do, diagnostics requires a methodical thoughtful laid out process with ALL information, not a willy nilly constantly developing careless process. You don't even have the factory service manual a must for this level of complexity. You drop in that your air/fuel ratio is off, with a current O2 sensor code 😀 , no kidding. But you have no codes?, do you understand how important DTC codes are?, they are there to help you and guide you to fix the car. You need a technician, sorry I couldn't help, i would need to be standing next to this car to help given the multitude of problems that continue to expand. You can not filter out or hold back information you don't think is important. Maybe someone will chime in here that sees a way to help, this is WAY over my head and I have been working on cars since the 50s haha. I am waving the white flag
  19. Aight . I have to do cpl things first I gotta poor trans fluid in, put fuse box back in, hook air intake back up, speakin of fuse box when this all first started I checked my fuses right all of em more than once couple weeks ago I stumbled upon a blown trans ign 3 fuse so I replace it but nothin happened
  20. Then lets do that. But make sure the battery is 100%, and monitor the alternator output for stable voltage and its not ranging high and low.
  21. If I remeber correctly I only got the tcm code cuz I had the harness unplugged. If I run obd I won't get it
  22. 1959 Cadillac Series 62 Convertible On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/1959-Cadillac-DeVille/202885146605?
  23. Hello guys I’m new here, I remember reading about someone on here doing a swap from a 4.1 to a 4.9. I don’t want to give it up to the junkyard cause I’ve have it for 10 years now but I do need help. Any information would help please and thank you guys.
  24. Don't do anything. The U0101 must be researched and diagnosed. Codes are KING, codes lead you to the problem. Parts replacing i.e. replacing the shift sensors and VSS was unnecessary and you are speaking about replacing the pump, no, don't do anything. We made progress, the U0101 is a key here given the experience of the fellow at the above link who described SLIPPING, exactly what you have. Shaun, I am beat here, lets rest on this. I responded to your PM also. Mike
  25. If and when I did clear those codes they didnt come back besides the trans fluid life the wheel speed sensor cpl more but I'll run obd tmrw with cleared codes n send you what I get. Tennessee and I bought it off a old cpl when it had 85,000 miles on it. Never had no test . As far as 02 and wheel sensor I can replace those tmrw
  1. Load more activity