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  2. rockfangd

    TPS and ICM Question

    Sorry for the delay with my posts. Work too much. Great to hear you found the 1634 problem. I hope you closely inspected the rest of those wires in that plug. As soon as I saw the 0 on that pin that nailed it. You are doing very well. We will get this. Long shot I know but it bears to mention that vacuum leaks do not always cause a lean code. That issue you resolved could cause all kinds of goofy issues. I highly suggest that you go over every vacuum hose, electrical connector, and bolt or nut that was touched throughout the process. If you had a high idle problem that was IAC related it should throw a code also. Be patient as you are making progress
  3. Yesterday
  4. BodybyFisher

    TPS and ICM Question

    With the engine off. Now that all P codes are gone, we can consider other issues I am pretty confident that if this were a vacuum leak that would cause a 3,300 rpm idle, you would have lean codes. @Logan do you agree with this? Have you seen high idle conditions caused by a vacuum leak that didn't cause a lean code? I have no question seen gunk, hold the throttle plate open and have an idle so high it was hard to hold back and dangerous. Typically when that happened, I would QUICKLY, VERY QUICKLY in neutral stomp the accelerator pedal to the floor and release it quickly to get it to seat and slow down. My 96, would occasionally hang open from gunk on the throttle plate and have a high idle. The first time it happened I got a P1525 Throttle Body Service Required code With no P codes, that precludes electrical connections not connected to say your IAC. I dont necessarily believe the mechanic with his smoke test because if he did uncover a vacuum leak where is the lean code? Check if the throttle linkage is on the stop and the cruise control cable is free and loose. Take the cables off if you have to and move the TB by hand to see if its binding or hanging. Patience, you are doing good. If you want to call it a day, that's fine. Let me know what you find. Where are you florida?
  5. jndnaps

    TPS and ICM Question

    With the car running, or off? I've already checked a few times with it off and it's closed.
  6. BodybyFisher

    TPS and ICM Question

    Take the MAF off, the cable should not seem to have pressure on it, it should have a little play, the throttle plate should be closed. You are doing great. Have patience.
  7. jndnaps

    TPS and ICM Question

    How do I check? Car running with the MAF off? or remove the hose to MAF and look through the screen? I need just a little more directions on how to do things. LOL.. It seems like the linkage is closing. I also pulled up on the gas pedal to see if that does anything and it didn't. I still can't get these codes into my little brain. If they're B codes, why does the computer say IP2511? Just can't figure that poop out. It should just say B2511.. I guess that's just too easy.. LOL.. I don't know, I'm dumber than a box of rocks.. LOL..
  8. BodybyFisher

    TPS and ICM Question

    Ok. Check to see that the throttle linkage is closing all the way. Look in the throttle body plate to see if there is ANY air space. There should be none. Take a 3 foot hose and put one end up to your ear and listen to the passenger side of your intake for air sucking. I doubt this is a vacuum leak because you dont have lean codes I am leaning (no pun intended) toward a cable linkage problem, make sure it is solidly on the stop and the plate is closed. Those are your only codes? Those are B codes not P codes, so you have no powertrain codes.
  9. jndnaps

    TPS and ICM Question

    So, the check engine light is off. No more 1634 and no more check electrical system message. But, the high idle is still there. Current Codes: P2511 - P2515 - C0073 - PZ2255 Went for a quick ride. The idle is around 1800 when stopped at a light, and when I got home and put it in park it jumped to 3300. RrRrRrRrRrRrr
  10. BodybyFisher

    TPS and ICM Question

    Glad to help, I love this stuff! Let me know how it works out, I am very curious as to whether this fixes your problem or whether this is a redundant connection. Remember rosin core solder for electric not acid core (just a reminder).
  11. jndnaps

    TPS and ICM Question

    Yeah, I have a soldering iron and solder. I just gotta find where I put the solder. Just looked in my toolbox and don't see it there. I'll ask my neighbor when he gets home.. Maybe he has some. If not I'll just do a twist on it just to see if it's working. I just discoed the battery so I'll try and do the splice before I hook it back up. Hopefully that was the problem. Thanks for all your help!
  12. BodybyFisher

    TPS and ICM Question

    Just remember that dew makes everything wet every night encouraging corrosion over time, so a moisture proof solid connection is preferred. For the time being a solid crimp or wire nut will work fine.
  13. BodybyFisher

    TPS and ICM Question

    I get the impression you are not going to keep the car that long so any way you can securely join that wire is good. I am not a fan of crimp connectors unless it is also soldered (because of corrosion potential and looseness). See what you can do. When you are done, disconnect the NEG (-) battery connector to erase codes, reconnect and start it, see if P1634 goes away and how it drives
  14. jndnaps

    TPS and ICM Question

    I may need to add some wire to that unless I can reroute it to splice it. How about using a Butt Splice? Yes, the red one looks worn. Not sure if they've been chewed on though. There was some old black tape wrapped there. I had to scrape that off to see the other end of the green wire.
  15. BodybyFisher

    TPS and ICM Question

    A couple of other wires look bad also, am I seeing that correct?
  16. BodybyFisher

    TPS and ICM Question

    BINGO!!!! Problem solved, broken wire. Proper fix, twist, solder, shrink wrap, tape.
  17. BodybyFisher

    TPS and ICM Question

    Looks like it. You have the connector layout above. Look at the colors in the layout and then look at that connector, they should agree. It probably is the connector. And.... it is sitting straight up and can be back probed, no doubt water got in there
  18. jndnaps

    TPS and ICM Question

    And, I found this green wire broken or chewed apart.
  19. jndnaps

    TPS and ICM Question

    OK, two things. Not sure if this is the connector..
  20. BodybyFisher

    TPS and ICM Question

    Lucky I checked there are 2 Lt Green wires in that connector (of course there are!) Here is a scan of connector C101, you are looking at Pin (cavity) D / CKT 147. Enjoy the whiskey!
  21. BodybyFisher

    TPS and ICM Question

    Correct! I transposed 18 for 19. I edited my post above. Please correct the reference in your post above or delete it if you can so there is no confusion. Here are the scans of C101's location, pull that connector apart and check for power at the Lt. GREEN wire coming from the fuse center and inspect the pins on both sides.
  22. jndnaps

    TPS and ICM Question

    The way I'm feeling right now I need a few shots of whiskey..
  23. BodybyFisher

    TPS and ICM Question

    Wow! you just found your problem sir! Good for you. Ok, terrific, the drop is on 18, This indicates to me that the splice S124 is good and not responsible. And I am pretty sure that this is responsible for your idle problems (well 95%) sure If you look at the diagram above, C101 is a connector. We need to inspect CKT 147 a Lt. Green wire for connector C101 for white/green corrosion. You checked for power at the IGN 0 (ENG) fuse and have power. Now we need to pull that connector apart and check for power there and inspect the condition of the connectors! I'll check the manual and see where C101 is located and come back. Good for you! Have a beer!
  24. jndnaps

    TPS and ICM Question

    OK, I get: 11.45 on 19 0 on 18
  25. BodybyFisher

    TPS and ICM Question

    I don't know that answer as I don't have a connector in front of me. However, I kind of doubt that you can back probe the connector, I doubt that they would permit moisture intrusion from the back. So yes, remove C1 and test pin 18 and pin 19 for power. I am hoping you find a voltage drop at pin 19. Do this with the key on. Before you reconnect the connector post your findings here. I might want you to test resistance between pin 19 and fuse PCM (IGN) to test the integrity of splice S124.
  26. jndnaps

    TPS and ICM Question

    OK, am I unplugging the C1 Connector from the pcm, or can I test this plugged in?
  27. Lance Johnson

    How to start a tight remanufactured engine

    It's a remanufactured motor that I bought from someone, it never been installed in a car before, it's a Cadillac 429, We open it up it looks real good on the inside, The problem we had is just been sitting for 2 years in his garage
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