Rusty

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About Rusty

  • Rank
    Participant (30+ posts)
  • Birthday 06/29/1953

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    12 CTS Performance Sedan
  • Engine
    3.6L V6 VVT DI (LLT)
  1. Trying to find the fuel tank level in the DIC. For example : how much fuel was used, how much remains. Anybody know how to do this ? Not finding the answer in the manual. Thanks.
  2. I have noticed that many of the newer CTS models that are not premium optioned do NOT have back-up sensors on the rear bumper or back-up cameras. I just purchased a 2012 performance CTS without this feature. It's a beautiful car, with low miles but I'm starting to have a bit of buyer's remorse. How many of you current owners find the lack of this feature an annoyance when backing to park ? My 15 year old STS , had this feature, along with tilt to curb mirror in reverse, also missing from the newer car(s) .
  3. My beautiful well maintained 2001 STS was totaled recently , and now the frustrating search begins for a worthy replacement. One of the reasons I kept it this long was the wealth of advice on this forum . I was considering a used AWD 3.6 L CTS , preferably with some decent options. Performance vs. Premium ? ( I still like wood trim ) Fog lamps aren't even a standard feature on cars today. Any advice from previous STS owners - who have transitioned to the more recent Caddies ?
  4. I thought P1633 was the only current code present when I cleared PCM codes previously - when the SES light went away . I just noticed P0125 code which was occasionally in history is now current.
  5. STS 116,000 miles . SES light comes on, with PCM P1633 code ' zero position ignition '. Light goes out when this code is cleared. Ignition switch was replaced 4 years ago . Battery is 7 years old , but output seems fine and car starts and runs O.K. Just curious - other than clearing the code every few days - anybody have any thoughts about how to approach this ?
  6. Thanks for the comments. Parts search results: Monroe P/N 40029/40030 were more $ than the OE AC/Delco so I've decided I'll probably use those. I'm not convinced there is "real" aftermarket replacement. AC /Delco 580-130, 580-131 for $985 del’d. from Auto Parts Tomorrow . Haven’t talked to them before but I will definitely call before I order. Amazon had the apparent low price of $350 ea. , but 3-5 week delivery. Wonder where they're coming from... I’m pretty well resigned to cough up the dough if I can be guaranteed the ride won’t be degraded while I still own it. A fellow Caddy owner remarked that if car maintenance costs $3,000 a year – 2 years in a row - time to get rid of the car. I will have easily passed the $3,000 outlay this year. Can only hope next year will be better.
  7. Decision time for sure. You will have to flip the coin for an eleven year old ride; there is no middle ground between "thrifty" and the "nice ride". BTW: the nice ride with CVRSS (F45 RPO) includes much more than automatic level control air bladders on the rear suspension. Monroe offers shocks (and struts) for your F45 suspension. Monroe shock part #s 40029 and 40030 available from Rockauto and others. Were it my car, salvage parts would not be an option. Not me. I would trade the car rather than install "passive" shocks/struts on a F45 suspension.
  8. 109,000 miles on the STS, runs great, except : ELC compressor is running a lot more lately ….. oil leaking around the right rear shock boot . Prices for OE shocks for the CVRSS suspension will concentrate the mind quickly. e.g. $ 469 ea. from GmPartsdirect. Other option might be salvage … What’s the consensus opinion about using other than OE parts ? I want to try to be thrifty but don’t lose the nice ride. : ) Has anyone had experience with passive shocks from Arnott Industries ?
  9. If you are creative...it can be repaired. All 4 of mine have been repaired at some point. I did get 1 new one from RockAuto. Turned out to be a China-made unit. I think all the eBay ones are 'repaired' units. The China unit I have (and using) is identical to the original. Right down to the plastic nugget. Since I noticed you mentioned plastic nugget - what's your favorite plastic nugget glue ?
  10. Thanks for your help guys. Guess there's no chance of repairing the part. Looks like a replacement / aftermarket regulator. I was told the cheaper ones on eBay are probably Chinese and might last 10 months(?) Or maybe I'll opt to buy the "better" higher priced ones from Mexico ...
  11. A sharp cracking sound occurred when the rear window was being raised. At first I thought something had hit the door, like a rock or bottle. Can hear the motor run- but not sure it will lower it - and now I'm reluctant to try for fear it might drop the glass inside the door. If it's the regulator is that going to be a PIA and big $ to fix ? I was planning on taking the door apart this weekend . Anyone encounter this situation ?
  12. I'll show this to the tranny shop mechanic. I talked to the local Caddy dealer service dept manager, and he seemed to be very familiar this bushing failure.
  13. Update: The transmission shop guy just said it's the "bushing" ( 3rd clutch housing bushing) - sorry not the bearing that needs to be replaced. I'm going to have to get to this problem after the first of the year.
  14. Thanks for the information - the drawings and photos are very helpful. But IF the needle bearing behind the seal is bad (evidenced by the movement) wouldn't you have to remove the tranny to get to this bearing ?