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So I was looking for pictures and all that and found the distributor of this tool and figured what the heck, it's a crazy expensive tool, let them explaint it to me. We worked out the values for the top pictures only and I kid you not, that took 30 minutes after i emailed them the pictures hahahaha
we came tot he conclusion:
top reads 93.040mm
bottom reads 92.925mm
which brings taper to 0.115mm
to reverse engine this value we concluded that from the top ring of the tool, each click (big-to-small stripe) is 0.005mm, We 14.5 stripes to get to 0 and we did 8 stripes to get to 4, a total of 22.5 stripes x 0.005mm = 0.1125mm and that's a match!
unfortunately 0.1mm tolerance and 0.1125 are NOT within specs..
the other cylinder is only 4.5 stripes difference, x0.005 = 0.0225mm taper and that's WELL within specs and indeed not as far as bad as the other one..
LONG time ago i made this little movie with the head-movement:
If you would find these measures and look at the movie, what would your suggestion be about the underside of the block?
The feeling creeps up at me that i'm in need of a new block.. how's your thoughts on that? I think I cant do just the 'bad' cylinder(s) (didnt measure all 8 but i'm assuming things wont look brighter after) and didn do the other measures, but i'd say it's very likely this block is just past it's lifespan.. and I'm thinking they already replaced the engine with a far worse one than the original 275.000km block that is supposed to be in there.. looking at the contamination on the valves we're thinking the block has ran either double the amount of km's, or or perhaps even AND on propane which would make sense in our part of the world...
Feeling a bit sad, I ask: what's your thoughts on this?
Sorry but worst design ever.
I call that poor planning.
I replace both of my Nissan filters annually and have done many more, but where GM put those is a sin. If you didnt know you would never guess it even had them.
How have you confirmed the evaporator is the cause? They do fail but pretty rarely
I think you are spot on. Hard to tell, and I'm not familiar with the tool either but it looks like "Cylinder A" was tapered a lot more than "Cylinder B"...
If you can post a pic of the tool and model number or a reference to their website I'll see if I can figure out the readings.
Thank goodness for long needle-nose pliers to pull those guys out! Strangest arrangement ever, with the 3 pieces interlocking as you slide them in. Next to no room to work under there by the gas pedal of course.