Olle

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Olle last won the day on March 13

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About Olle

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    Participant (30+ posts)

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  • Car Model and Year
    STS 1994
  • Engine
    NORTHSTAR 4.6L V8 VVT (LH2)

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  1. About 10-15 wires..And it has an antenna wire and radio module (sister card) attached to the PCB.. So, I would say remote Keyless?
  2. Thanks alot Logan. great info.🙂 I just checked into the old forum thread "Remote Keyless"...lots of info there..wow.. All I can say is, yes, most likely my car did not come with Keyless from factory. and, it might be Aftermarket dealer - installed back in the nineties..or later installed by somebody in Germany? (car ended up in Sweden in 2007 though. now with me) After all, I can see why a customer demanded that a/any luxury car should come with a keyless central locking system. Personally, No big deal for me no keyless. I got the car for 1200 USD a few years ago, so, I wasnt gonna make a fuss about the car (my STS) not having Keyless. I do have the lining in the trunk still intact, and the Harness looks good from my perspective..nothing getting kinked or twisted. Why would anybody remove the lining in the trunk anyway? 🙄😊 And Yes, There seems alot was "special" for the Export model.. quite different harness it seems..from the look of it. To clarify: The reason it took me so long to figure out that this Keyless box in the trunk was at fault, was because I didnt know the car even had a Keyless- electronics wired in, albeit, not utilized anymore. (since I have never seen the actual remote/clicker) Im just using "pure" keys for the car. Thanks for all the support guys! /O
  3. As a reference to prices here in Stockholm, Sweden. the 1994 Eldorado TC/(99 engine) is for sale at 3 grand. /Olle
  4. Thanks, Yes, There are´nt many on the road here either anymore, most have gone to the crusher due to the Headbolts fiasco.. My dad actuyally made a decent extra buck in the 2010s fixing the headbolts issue for other Northstar owners.(in his extensive home shop/garage- where he did a complete Timesert job for $1800 including parts vs GM shops asking upwards of 5k..so..we sometimes worked together) I love the STS Seville´s too, (and they are cheap) this one has a newer (replacement) lower milage engine (inc timesert job) and a replacement automatic in it. Car is originally from Switzerland (you know, bordering to italy, hence, the italian electronics box in the trunk compartmnet I reckon.?) No salt on the roads in southern europe, so, no rust to speak of on this car..it has had an overspray/paintjob to it in 2005 sometime, where they applied a 3 coat Pearl thing to it, a color that originally appeard a little later in the 90s from what I heard. Ive also heard ideas that if you keep/kept changing the coolant regularly on these Northstar motors from the get go, they will not corrode down the headbolts threads? (back in the day)..but I really don´t know if that is the reason? is it an old wifes tale? You guys know? What really makes the threads go bad over time? Perhaps buying another car for the future: I have a lead on another Cadillac I´m somewhat tempted to buy.. a 1994 Eldorado TC which is in great shape, and has had the timeset kit job done to it a few years back.. And here´s what makes that car special: it has a 1999 Drivetrain in it, installed by my dad, He actually managed to keep the 99 intake etc and did some modifications to EGR ports and intake and all that jazz, a lot of rewiring of the more modern engine, to get it to run correctly in a 1994..So- It bet it´s very unique and from what I hear, it runs fatastic too!.. Cool mod. The Story: The owner had gotten hold of a complete low milage 99 drivetrain but his car was a 94 Eldorado with headbolt leak issue..so, they made an attempt to get the 99 engine into the 94, and it eventually worked! no codes.. It´s a shame about the headbolts issue for these cars, it it wasnt for that, the Northstar is one fantastic engine..I love it. As long as the bolts been fixed, these cars are just magnificent. /Olle
  5. Dear all, I think I solved it today! Unplugged an electronics box in the trunk...no more parking light running (by themselfs), Win! I found a box in the trunk that, after some research, appeared to be an Aftermarket thing..but was mounted professionally amongst the other GM Original controllers etc..but had some funky wiring to it that perhaps looked a bit suspicious..hehe. I removed the screws and inspected it, was written in italian on the back of it, hmmm, weird.. Opened it up and I see a bunch of relays..and it has an antenna, OK, so, it´s some kinda remote Keyless entry radio- receiver I guess? Brand: "Synkra". We/I havent had the Keyless operating for 7-8 years I think..just using the keys old school to open the doors, no remote "clicker" present since I can´t remember.... So, I unplugged it and no more Parking lamps, took the car out and all seems to be working as per usual. no problems and lights are operating normally, like they should! I assume one of the relays is stuck on the PCB..see image. I´ll get back here if the problem comes back, but most like it will not, it works great now. Thanks alot! /Olle
  6. Hello, and thanks for your replys. To my knowledge there is/has not had any remote start or alarms. Background: The car used to belong to my late dads´who actually was a contributing member of this forum years ago. (Car has had the head bolts fixed (by my father, a semi professional mechanic) and runs great for an old car, ) I went thru it last night again, and have some additional info: Like said, pulling out the relay "B" in Relay block 2 in trunk changes nothing, I can measure 11V on one of the pins? is that in order no? Measuring the Fuse D13 on fuse block in trunk (park lamps) there is 11 Volts there too?..despite light being off and no key in ignition. (I measured the Ohm´s on the Twi sentinel foto resistor (just because I could) and it responds to light..seems to be working and has been changed before it looks like. So, I did a search for the same problem but broadend it to include other GM vehicles, I read some which gave me other ideas to try: 1. seems many people had faulty Towbar electrical (trailer light) connectors, but there is no such connector ever wired on my car.. 2. Bad ground, someone mentioned wiring an extra ground cable direcly from battery to some other (rearward) ground point to try and possibly boost the ground connection to the chassis to see if that potentially could help a bad ground? if..that seems to be the case. 3. Engine compartment fuse block, try to start pulling other fuses, one at the time and see if there is a short in the block feeding current to the parking lights. , Also remove/lift up Fuse block - take it apart, looking for arching/short..but, in honesty, I don´t think thats the culprit. I also opened up the Harness again (like open heart surgery) in the rear (by rear seat LH panel) where the Diodes are supposed to be..nothing?...According to the "mega" Service Manual -the "Diode Pack" should be just there..but is not..strange..Could it be that my car, export model/harness does not come with protective Diodes ? who knows.. Anyway, Thanks for looking and taking your time, Have a good one. /Olle
  7. Dear all Cadillac freaks. It´s been awhile since Ive been on here but last time I got great help.. Anyway, My name is Olle (pronounces Ollie) and Im over in here in Sweden, EU. The car is a real nice 1994 Seville STS, No codes and runs great, it my daily driver (for as long as I can keep it running). I do have the 2 "phonebooks" of a service manual for it , and the car is an Export Model. From Switzerland. So, quite a bit about the schematics/wiring seems different compared with the US models, unfortunately.. Electrial problem: I´m somewhat versed in electronics, but by no means a "meistro." Now, for my dilemma, I can not get the Parking Lamps to shut off, started about a week ago..Had to disconnect the battery. I have the car in a garage where I can work and do extensive diagnostics myself, that is good. What I see with the Battery connected is: Parking lamps are on all around, and, also the instrument cluster is lit up and can be dimmed with the knob. The headlight switch is also lit up (the bulb inside). This phenomenon has sporadically been going on for about a month, but it would actually shut the light off itself after a few minutes , althoug I did find it weird, since I had not touched/tinkered with the Twilight Sentinel or anything like that. it is and always has been in the "OFF" position. But, as I said, last week it would not shut off at all, and it happeded when I hooked up a battery charger to it. hmm.. Car was sitting with everything off, but suddenly turned on the Parking lamps on by itself! if this was related to the battery charger or not..I don´t know. So, 1. I have pulled out/removed the headlamp switch housing and disconnected the connectors in the back, No change, Park lights still on. 2. Ive removed the fuses for the parking light in the trunk: D13 D11, No change, Park lights still on. 3. Ive pulled out (I think all the Relays) in the Micro Relays Center 1,2 and 3 in the trunk with the battery connected and the Parking lights still stays on! 4. pulled out the connectors for all "computers" in the trunk (except for the Body Control Unit)..same thing, Park- lights still on. 5, cleaned all the fuse blocks, no change, obviously. So, Possibly, 12V is leaking (a short?) someplace feeding the parking lamp cercuit? Do you have any ideas? Now, Here are a few questions: Someboby mentioned potential problems with a busted protective "Zener Diode" on the harness . Looking at the scematics in the Service Manual 8A-201-58 , there is supposedly a "DIODE PACK" by the left rear seat chassis sill/panel , I did open the - whole thing up, exposing all the cables/wires (yes, many and all the colors of Benetton!) , but can not find any diodes or a diode-pack there? see image, Do you guys know if there really are any "Zeners" on the harness anywhere at all? Any ideas, thoughts or comments are welcome! Cheers, Olle
  8. Car still runs great after a trip of about a 100 miles, And, the code for idle relearn process (P080) actually cleared itself after being sitting in traffic for half an hour...so, no SES light or stumbling at the moment, runs like a charm.. 35 to 43 degrees (F) here this coming week, not too bad, believe me, it can get A LOT worse this time of year. Merry Christmas, /Olle
  9. Hello Mike and everyone, (and thanks for the offer on cheap left-over parts Mike!) I just thought I´d "loop back" with some finding regardning my Crank Sensor problem..This is an interesteting one! Ive been having an intermittent fault code (code 083) and SES light blinking lately on and off . you could feel engine bucking as the SES light was flickering..etc Yesterday I installed new sensors (Delphi) but it made absolutely no change or improvement ! hmmm.. ( Im starting to get pretty quick with removing and installing these crank-sensors at this point..mind you, for better or worse) So, looked in the service manual, and next step could be cabling/ and or Coilpack, checked cables, installed a different Coil pack, no change. So, "Last resort" according to service manual was to change computer, so I did, along with original 94 STS "Prom" swapped over naturally.. And, low and behold, no more code 083 and car idles smooth as silk!? funny...the ecm im using now is from a 93 Eldorado, but prom is correct for my car. My guess is, (just a guess) that the Alternator trouble I had this fall where the faulty alternator wreaked havoc with the whole Engine Management System until the Alternator finally blew one day, might have "zapped" the original computer (ECM?) and it was never the same after? just a thought.. Anyway, it is intersting to notice the original ECM computer seems to have stopped reading the crank triggers/ignition (on/off) cousing intermitten problems. Like I said, with new computer engine idles just fine (despite asking for an idle relearn process (P080) and not a hint of Crank Trigger problems or stumbling idle etc. Im hoping it will stay this way now for the duration of the winter for which Im using the car.. Many thanks guys, Olle
  10. Finally !!! Got it running well again! Yesterday I found out what was wrong with it since installing the new Alternator. (2nd one, covered under warranty) You are not going to believe this,...but it was a miss from cylinder no 2, due to a freakin SPARK PLUG!! darn! Man, do I feel stupid.. ( but I will happily feel stupid if it makes the car run well again...hehe) You see, the ground electrode had probably gotten hit when I installed it again a few weeks ago, (I had to drop it in, due to lack of correct type/size plug socket) and then get it to catch the treads, maybe it hit aginst the "floor" of the head, and it closed the gap too much, electrodes were almost touching, resulting in a really feable spark, which would not fire the combustion thorougly, maybe like only 50% of the time?, hence It was missingbadly on cylinder no2. Took the plug out, re-gapped it, opened up the gap back to normal, put the plug back in, runs like a charm! haha! Unbelievable... It currently idles smoother then in has in a long long time, so at least I know I do not have a bad vaccuum leak, or screwed anything else up.. ( I seem to remember a test (swap) with another set of older stock plugs about a week ago, but is´s quite possible that old set was not up to par either, resulting in my switching back..I have no idea, it got too confusing with all the parts being interchanged left and right for the past month..) Driving it some 30 miles after the fix, it feels great, I do have one little fault code that pops up intermittently (083 current, with engine running yesterday) indicating a bad "crank sensor/trigger" so I might try and order 2 of those sensors new from Rock Auto and swap out later. But, interestingly, it has not had an affect on how it runs,,,yet... Thans for all your help! and being a 22 year old car, i`m sure I´ll be back soon with more questions..hehe.. Cheers, /Olle
  11. Thanks guys, yesterday I "ohms-measured" the leads to and also the actual Crank-triggers/sensors. They are identical, about 1K ohms to both of them loosening the connector at the coil pack, so, my estimation is nothing wrong there with cabling and most likely nothing wrong with triggers.. I also made sure the wireing at the coil-pack from triggers are clean and seem to contact good ( little pins etc).no codes now when test-driving. Sorry for my language here, but I will try to make sense with my somewhat limited car-vocabulary.. I took the car out for a 15 minute drive: I get the code "46" on the dash, as per usual ( no other codes, no crank trigger codes or anything) ..trying to find/google what the 46 flashing on the dash implies? Export code? no one really knows...could be Anti theft system, or...? another way of saying " left/right fuel imbalance" ? I do NOT have P046 code stored in ECM/computer as a trouble code... Did an Oxy sensor measurement/balance test: front bank is 135, rear is 119, is that really bad ? it starts up fast and idles, but quite rich, (nothing new).. then as it warms up stops smelling as rich, idle is a little rough but not terrible, but I would´nt say it sound totally "100% healty", listen to the sound clip- if you follow me?... short clip, one pipe. It almost sounds like terrible misfire, or, Worse yet, I have a valve problem of sorts ? Why ? I´m beginning to suspect I have a valve problem!! or something mechanical? why is beyond me? I have not mashed the pedal in years.. But I guess anything is possible, Need to make a compression test on all cylinders, tricky, I can not fit my copression test tool in there, its too tight.. Thanks a Lot! Caridle.mp2
  12. Ok, I will check later, I know were the triggers are, Ive removed / changed them before..
  13. And, Ive done a crank triggers swap on the car before, tricky job, but it never ran this bad (or like this) when those were showing up as codes on the display while driving. cheers, /Olle
  14. Hello, I just tried a different and better battery, load checked ok, more power from it, BUT, no change in how engine runs.. So, problem is not battery-condition related... No, not a lot of fuel around inside intake manifold when I lifted and removed the cover, looked ok. I thought about it and inspected for raw fuel before I removed the rails and injectors..looked dry/ok to me?.. I have a completely diffrent new coil pack on it ( verified to work not long ago I swapped with) no change.. A fuel pressure.gage and later check fuel pressure might be possible to obtain, but not right now, it will have to wait.. I changed the fuel filter for a new one 3 weeks ago. motor bucks and jerks on the highway pretty bad, ( I was just out today) but when you give it gas, it smooths out ..weird.. The SES light came on breifly, like for 1 minute, the went away while driving... only code running display diagnostics after I stopped today is HISTORY something"83" ( crank triggers, am I right?) I did not get code 46 for 10 minutes while driving, but it bucked and jerked just as usual anyway.. I stopped and gave it some fresh gas, no change.. I´m leaning against fuel related right now, but need a break from trouble shooting.. Believe me, Ive searched high and low for vacuum leaks, havent located any, yet.. /Ollie