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About Kodiak

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    Participant (30+ posts)

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    Metro Detroit

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  • Car Model and Year
    2001 Seville STS

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  1. The dash is back together. Started up like a charm. I started on the intake to plenum boot. Installed the rebuilt starter. Ready to put the plenum and new seals back on. But that's another topic. That old leaky intake to plenum boot was hard as a rock... After that will be the alternator to frame ground wire.
  2. Thanks again! I might as well. I'll pull the old one to match it up for length. Just got the rebuilt starter in. Found a nest under the plenum when I pulled it. I wondered why the fabric was missing from the hood insulation way back when I bought the car. Any way to clean that plenum? That thing is nasty thick inside.
  3. I did clean the end on the rf frame rail. I'll dig around to get to the alternator end of it. Thanks!
  4. Here are two photos and the differences between the two exciters.
  5. Update so far. The ignition switch will come out fairly easily through the radio opening if you pull the lower drivers dash panel and remove the vent tube. Then two screws and remove the adjacent vent tube the sits right behind the ignition switch itself. I had to tug that tube to pull it out of through the radio opening. That gave me room to maneuver the switch out from behind the dash and through the radio opening. the original exciter had a tiny bit of plastic at the very end of it that kept it from being easily pulled out without removing the switch. The new doesn't have that. If it ever needs replaced again, I won't have to remove the entire switch assembly to replace it. Nice after thought to remove that bit of plastic. I've been taking photos along the way. Some are better to take as its going back together. Once the job is complete, I'll post those when I figure out how to upload them here and actually have them make sense!
  6. Hello All, I found a local starter rebuild shop with good reviews. $90 to rebuild my starter. I think that's pretty reasonable and since I have to remove the plenum, the starter access should be an easy exchange. Thanks for any help I get!
  7. I thought it would too. This car has done some strange things so not throwing a code wouldn't surprise me. I pulled the radio/ AC control out tonight and found remnants of an old install of a car phone adapter tied into the radio and ignition switch harnesses. I pulled all that junk out, including a speaker mounted in the passenger foot well and an antenna on the top of the windshield. This car had a remote start at one point, the warning sticker is still on the fan shroud. Still looks like that exciter should pull out of there fairly easily without removing the switch completely. I already bought the new one... I'm on a mission now! This car is a love hate relationship... That starter will be next with that plenum boot, or next month when I attempt the valve cover seals. I suppose I'll be starting a new topic then complete with photos... lol
  8. Probably wouldn't hurt. It's been doing it so long (65k miles), would the starter have died by now? I still suspect that exciter not reading either keys. They are original keys. I carried the spare around to try when it wouldn't start and that didn't work either.
  9. When I turn the key to the start position, the dash lights go out, and nothing. Not a sound. No clicks, Nothing. This has been an on going issue since I bought this car in '07. Didn't do it all the time, but every once in awhile it acted as if it was going to leave me stranded. Several attempts, sometimes even pulling the key, locking and unlocking the doors (as if I were reactivating the theft deterrent system), it eventually turns over and starts. It hasn't left me stranded yet. I had 89k miles when I bought it, 155k now. It is acting up more frequently now. One thing I notice. It always starts cold. It only seems to act up when I try to restart it about a half hour to an hour and a half after running it to temp then shutting it off. Seems to only happen while its cooling down. Again, it doesn't happen all the time. I've jumped all over sites trying to read all I can about this issue and the few things I keep coming up with is the theft deterrent system, the exciter at the ignition switch seems to be a weak link here. I thought I could just knock that out of the way. Hmm... I've cleaned the battery terminals and body grounds. I recently replaced the relay modules, three for the ignition, one for the starter. I have yet to pull the plenum to replace the intake to plenum boot. That's going to be this weekend.
  10. I had a similar issue in my 01 Seville. When I bought it, the passengers side window would go down, but not up. I popped the switch out and dismantled it (it's just snapped together). I found a crack in the pcb (printed circuit board) running across one of the printed circuits. I sanded the spot down and put a drop of solder on the copper circuit. It still works years later. When the driver window button started acting up, I bought the whole cover with switches off ebay. I did have to swap switch covers and the switches into my unit as the ones off ebay didn't match interior color. I had a light go out in my volume button on the steering wheel, so I un-soldered one from my old window switch and replaced it. Bonus!
  11. I have an '01 Seville that on occasion, will not start. Turning the key to start several times and it will eventually start. It just goes dead in the start position. No dash lights, no clicking, just plain nothing. I tried the spare key just to make sure it wasn't the transponder in the key and it made no difference. My question is; Does the entire switch need to be removed to get that exciter off? It looks like with some finesse it should pull right out through the front. I have the switch loose, but was really avoiding pulling it completely out if I didn't have to. It didn't seem to be any related codes. These are all HISTORY IRC U1016 MSM U1000 RIM U1255 TTM U1016 I have lean right and left bank codes, 0171 and 0174, and found the intake to plenum boot is shot. Thanks for any help!!
  12. You are a hero! I can't think of a much worse job that wouldn't require pulling the engine. So many little things I've done to that car with little to no room to work on it. I didn't get a video, However I did take several photos, and those were to help me remember where all the parts go. I did get pics of the crossover pipe and failed gaskets. I remember the day my buddy and I were reinstalling his rebuilt 400 small block it into his 1970 Monte Carlo. Each of us were standing with feet on the ground, inside the engine compartment on either side of the engine. Those were some good days! Speaking of which, I grew up near the Fisher Body plant in Wyoming, Mi. Still remember the "Body by Fisher" carriage emblem.
  13. First of all, yes I'm still driving my 01 STS! After years of tire rebalancing and several small fixes including new front hub assemblies, all of which seemed to make a difference on the severity of that dreaded 65mph + shimmy or vibration through the car, each never eliminated the problem. But first, let me bore you how I got to it. A couple months ago I had the unlucky task of replacing the water crossover gaskets. That was a crap job of all crap jobs. Mind you, I'm not a professional mechanic, nor would I claim to be, however this stuff doesn't scare me from trying it. That being said, I decided I was not paying someone half the cars value to repair that crossover pipe that was spewing antifreeze out as fast as I could pour it in. After a week with the hood open, and every possible thing to replace was replaced, water pump, thermostat and housing, all hoses, gaskets and clamps. I even cleaned the fuel injectors and replaced the O-rings since I had to pull the fuel rail. All I can say is... Never Again! I was nervous to start the old girl when I was done out of fear something wasn't going to be right with all the work I just committed my life to. My fears were calmed by the fact it even started first try! Yay me! Having my pride crushed after a good road test wasn't a good feeling as the smell of hot antifreeze could be found within a 10 foot radius around the car. I couldn't find leaks so that was a good sign. Topping off the expansion tank and repeated road tests revealed that I must've been smelling the last of the antifreeze burning off the engine and tranny. I replace the expansion tank cap which may or may not have helped, don't know, don't care... I stopped losing coolant which I'm sure was just air working out and the smell was eventually gone! Again, Yay me!! What has that to do with the vibration? Absolutely Nothing! What a crap job that was!! However that lead me to really paying attention to the engine, as I searched for coolant leaks, I noticed my belt tensioner (serpentine belt on the passenger side) was jumping a lot... as I scoured around looking for an out of round culprit, there it was, holy mother of grails... the harmonic balancer looked like it was a spinning egg! Though I hadn't quite related that to the highway vibration at this point, I just knew I had to change it. So the deed was done just before I had to make a 400 mile trip and with the coolant issue behind me I felt safe to make the journey in my Seville. I have now logged over a thousand miles and that car is smoother than it ever was in the previous 8 yrs I've owned it. Sorry I put you through "the story" to get to my Title but every time I work on this car, its a story! I'll save the sunroof drains for another day! lol
  14. Kodiak

    intermittent starting

    Not yet, it hasnt acted up again. but it will. I havent driven it much since I posted. As soon as I come up with something I'll post again. There are some good ideas in this thread though.
  15. Kodiak

    intermittent starting

    I drive it in english for sure... but it doesn't change the numbers on the speedo just the position of the pointer. Thats why kids will see that and ask "wow does this car really do 240?" I leave the digital readout on because it's easier to read. There are a lot of numbers crammed onto the metric speedometer! If you haven't seen one, check it out.