sonjaab

Hell all........ I am heading to Fla Mon. to scope out some 89-95 Chevy s-10 4x4s. Not many out there that aint all butchered up. I got my eye on a 93 Deville grampas ride family wans to dump for $900! Needs a little TLC but has 77k miles! Anyhoo......I note in all the truck ads there are covers on the steering wheels! I wonder why they crumble like that down south and how to fix! But having lived own there and GMs crummy plastics I know why! Prob. best bet to get a new steering wheel at a NY pic a part yard but the yards I have been in lately wont sell a steering wheel with a air bag? Maybe be back with a truck and another Caddy!

Finished replacing the master cyl.. Bench bled it and installed it in minutes. No issues and no brake lights on dash so it done! Time to go ridin' before we get the expected lake effect blizzard starting later today in Central/northern NY and the partiers be out boozin' and crusin' and the cops be baggin' and taggin' for the new year!

Finally got the new master cyl. and its gonna be almost 50 and sorta warm here in NY again today so will be installing it later today!

Rock, you have a set of 4? My 72 Fleetwood 75 only had 2 and same with my 2011. My 93 has 2 but dont sound the same.

Diggin found this: 1978 http://www.delcoremyhistory.com/Products/horns.htm Ever wonder why Delco calls its batteries a "Freedom Battery"? Read on that site.

Anybody know the Cadillac horn notes used in the 70s to the 90s? The horn notes on my 93 Deville sound nothing like horns on my 2011 or my 72 . Anybody know the notes used on the 93 vs. the 72? Or even the various years? Missin' that old school Caddy trumpets sound on my 93!

Thanks G, Shes a Florida fresh grandma car that had 91k miles and nice paint and interior. Needed tires and a heater core. Now a master cylinder. Fixes and parts dirt cheap for these squarebodies! You get your issues worked out?

WOW! Rock auto kicked back my order as "out of stock". I had to order a different unit! Still no local places have the rare unicorn JM-4 master cylinder in stock either! So i wait!

I had the brake light come on in my 93 Deville the other day. So I noted my brake fluid was low and turning on the brake light. Checked to make sure the parking brake wasnt pushed down by accident. I sort of figured the brakes were getting worn down by the 15k miles I put on it during the last year I owned it and figured it was normal so why the fluid being low. A week later the brake light was on again and the fluid was low. So I checked all 4 wheels (have rear drums) and lines. I know see that the firewall is wet with the clear brake fluid. I note the master cylinder is leaking where it bolts to the firewall and the firewall is wet with fluid. So I order a new master cyl. from Rock Auto since NO parts houses near me have a JM-4 master cyl. in stock. (yea those 85-93 square bodies use several different units verified from the RPO list.) So while Im under the hood (in my nice warm garage spinnin the wrench) I guess I will swap out the $30 heater core again! Only $32 bucks for the master cyl. too! Will post the results when done! YES! I do have another car to drive while I wait for the parts.

If it was me and I wanted a bit more GO-FAST in my 3.6 there are a few PCM tuners out there for some simple and easy engine tuning mods for less than $500 bucks. If you also wanna turn wrenches or have a fat wallet there are a lot of aftermarket go-faster goods to install too.

Hmmm replace radiator? Too cold for that here in snow and ice land along with a flushing. So either gonna live with it or at least swap out the core. Thanks for the tips tho..............

All i can say about the air temp door is when the adjustment rod is disconnected and i move it stop to stop the temp would change dramatically from hot to cold after core change out. Where it was cold to lukewarm before core change. I was freezing to death on the trip from Fla to NY after I bought it and stopped at a rest stop in VA and pulled the glovebox to check the air temp door! When the adj. rod is reconnected it moves stop to stop with the accu. from the temp control setting. So I figured that ruled out the temp door operation. Agin I will mention the inlet/outlet positions on the core and the way it sits in the HVAC box and the thinness of the core tubes I figure just a few crushed sealant tab "threads" would clog the core lines. My tech bud mentioned that when i whipped out the old core and broke the plastic tanks off today and we eyeballed it loaded with the tab "threads" and figure its plugged again while drinking a cold one! LOL! SO I guess I am gonna gamble another $30 and replace it. Im COLD!

I know of GM stating the newer N*stars didnt need the sealant tabs from when I had my 2011 DTS. But this 93 Deville 4.9 was Fla. oldster owned from new and I am sure the dealer service sold them a bunch of services! Prob. too may tabs or because of the tabs and the way the core sits in place the tabs load up the bottom of the core.

No infrared temp guage. Hoses in wheelwell and firewall leading to core seem equally hot. But as you guys know that the core stands up mounted in the car and the water inlet/outlets are at the top of the core and the bottom of the core must fill with the sealant tab threads so water flow is not restricted but the area of water being heated is tiny so then poor heat output. I figure this from cutting open my old heater core and noting it half filled with sealant tabs. (no pics on new PC to post)

Level good, no idea the coolant temp., cant backflush.