sprinter10 Posted November 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2010 Buy an AC Delco cap. According to the FSM for 94 the cap is 15 psi It is not necessary to see how much pressure the system generates, you want to see how much pressure the cooling system HOLDS, maybe you are saying the same thing The cap is the reason why it was not holding pressure. If your radiator is leaking, the new cap will make it worse. There are no leaks anywhere I found one hose that was loose that was leaking when I changed the thermostate and the radiator cap was not holding pressure and leaking after 8 minutes of it running. I just drained the system out and filled with dexcool have it idling now for 11 minutes and sofar so good. It is ideling at 5/8 degrees tho and both fans are on... Was ideling at 1/2 before with no fans with mostly more water in the system. Since I only get just over a gallon out when I drain it I put in strait dexcool to be safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinter10 Posted November 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2010 Running now for a total of over an hour straight with a 8 mile test drive up a big hill driving it pretty hard at 45 mph making it downshift to 3,500rpm filled it with gas and never got over half way. No steam or any smoke out eghaust. no water leaking on floor or around tank. baout to take it on an hour and 15 minuted highway mt pocono ride up some long hills to put it to the test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted November 20, 2010 Report Share Posted November 20, 2010 Running now for a total of over an hour straight with a 8 mile test drive up a big hill driving it pretty hard at 45 mph making it downshift to 3,500rpm filled it with gas and never got over half way. No steam or any smoke out eghaust. no water leaking on floor or around tank. baout to take it on an hour and 15 minuted highway mt pocono ride up some long hills to put it to the test. Good luck to you...I hope it is fixed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caddypete Posted November 20, 2010 Report Share Posted November 20, 2010 That is fantastic if your problem was only the cap! Wish you the best of luck that everything runs fine on your test ride Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted November 20, 2010 Report Share Posted November 20, 2010 getting a 2000 sts for 1000 is odd. that seems like an awful low price which usually means problems. i looked at a 99 sts today. bad headgaskets. 120k miles. body/tires are ok. they want 500 for it. but it has a known serious problem. a grand is not bad for your car. if it needs 2500 more a head gasket job than it might be a different story. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted November 20, 2010 Report Share Posted November 20, 2010 also being you stated that you replaced the cap I would inspect the purge reservoir as they are slightly common to cracking. definately keep us posted oon this. And it is nice to see someone taking a smooth approach to such problems. GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted November 21, 2010 Report Share Posted November 21, 2010 If the engine is warming up and the heater is blowing cold air, either the temperature control doors in the A/C are stuck or your heater hoses are clogged. Or there is air in the heater core. getting a 2000 sts for 1000 is odd. that seems like an awful low price which usually means problems. That was my first thought as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 22, 2010 Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 How is the best way to preshurize the cooling system? Can I then Just spray soapy water all around looking for a buble like checking a leak in a tire? I didnt see this post, you can buy a pump with a gage on it, it looks like this. Maybe you can borrow one http://www.sears.com...=1&blockType=G1 Or you can get it to a radiator shop and have them pressurize it, any leaks will show with this test Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caddypete Posted November 23, 2010 Report Share Posted November 23, 2010 Must have had a eventless ride and everything worked out. Don't ya hate when the post just gets left in limbo not knowing what the outcome was? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 23, 2010 Report Share Posted November 23, 2010 Must have had a eventless ride and everything worked out. Don't ya hate when the post just gets left in limbo not knowing what the outcome was? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott y Posted November 23, 2010 Report Share Posted November 23, 2010 Unless he's in jail for a series of sustained WOT's I wonder how that would go over with the authorities..."Just out for a little exercise,sir no worries" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinter10 Posted November 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2010 Well we are getting there but I just took a week off down in florida. That day I drained the water out of the system and put in a lot of dexcool prety strong mixture not knowing what was left in the engine. Engine was never shut off and run for over an hour got in hit a large long hill 7 miles down the road and the temp started to climb halfway up the hill. Just as I hit the top and pulled into a parking lot turning around it started going back down and resumed the 10 mile drive home with the gauge straight up and down. Popped the hood and it was all bone dry no preshure leaking out of cap or water around it. This was a first. Before it was pushing water out the cap and took forever for the temp to go down on the side of the road. So the cap was deff bad and now I just think there is a bad cooling system that is not cooling the engine to its fullest. (Clogged radiator, gummed up heater coil,etc.) I tried feeling the radiator but can only reach around the fan fins with my finger tips and they are not sensitive enough to feel the temp differeneces to feel for a cold spot. The top to bottom feels the same but the drivers side is a good amount cooler then the passengers side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinter10 Posted November 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2010 also being you stated that you replaced the cap I would inspect the purge reservoir as they are slightly common to cracking. definately keep us posted oon this. And it is nice to see someone taking a smooth approach to such problems. I did take the tank out when it had water everywhere and whiped it down it was bone dry no cracks or leaks it was all just running down from the old cap that wasn't sealing right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted November 29, 2010 Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 Make sure to test the coolant concentration to make sure it is 50/50 (freeze point -34F). DexCool should never be mixed in concentrations over 60% dex to water. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted November 29, 2010 Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 It's normal for a cross-flow radiator to be cooler on one side than the other. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinter10 Posted November 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 Make sure to test the coolant concentration to make sure it is 50/50 (freeze point -34F). DexCool should never be mixed in concentrations over 60% dex to water. wouldn't it be ok if dexcool to be a little on the strong side rather then more water then dexcool? The lowest it has ever gotten here in jersey years ago was -3 but I don't even know if it got that cold. Where can I get the tester for that? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 29, 2010 Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 its not a matter of freeze protection, above 60% Dexcool could be damaging go to a good auto parts supply, they should have a tester Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinter10 Posted November 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 Ok I will pick up one of those testers by the weekend and plan in an oil change and take it for a nother test. I checked the water yesterday and it was low took about 1/4 gallon. Never checked it after I filled it and ran it. Could that be a reason why it may have over heated last saturday? When I check the oil I will check for any milky look or water in it to. What brand oil are most of you guys using for a car with 118,000 miles any brand oil filter prefered? Oil treatment of any kind? Thanks a lot I am slowly getting closer and closer to figuring this car out fixing one symptom at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted November 30, 2010 Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 Don't bother looking for coolant in the oil. You won't find any. Northstars rarely if ever put coolant in the oil when a HG goes. Any brand of oil will do the job. One is as good as the other, but leave the snake oil on the shelf. A/C Delco or Napa's Wix are good filters. Probably many others, just stay away from Fram. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 30, 2010 Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 Ok I will pick up one of those testers by the weekend and plan in an oil change and take it for a nother test. I checked the water yesterday and it was low took about 1/4 gallon. Never checked it after I filled it and ran it. Could that be a reason why it may have over heated last saturday? When I check the oil I will check for any milky look or water in it to. What brand oil are most of you guys using for a car with 118,000 miles any brand oil filter prefered? Oil treatment of any kind? Thanks a lot I am slowly getting closer and closer to figuring this car out fixing one symptom at a time. If the coolant was low yes, it could overheat from that, keep an eye on the level, and check the concentration Use a good 10W30, no oil treatment Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinter10 Posted November 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 synthetic? no synthetic? synthetic blend? 10w30 castrol gtx? Thats what I run in the zx-6r 636cc 4 cylinder street bike engines with stp oil treatment for my brothers race car putting out 142.7hp so i always have it laying around. I thought my cap said 20w50 or something like that on the engine. I have to look again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 30, 2010 Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 synthetic? no synthetic? synthetic blend? 10w30 castrol gtx? Thats what I run in the zx-6r 636cc 4 cylinder street bike engines with stp oil treatment for my brothers race car putting out 142.7hp so i always have it laying around. I thought my cap said 20w50 or something like that on the engine. I have to look again. You have a 2000 with roller followers, you could get away with 5W30. I personally dont think the added cost of synthetic warrants its use, but we have many members that swear by it. Your 2000 came with good ole DINO oil, and you can use either 5W or 10W30 in my opinion. Why spend more than you need to for synthetic. Synthetic is good if you are racing due to its performance at high temps but your driving will never need that protection. To me oil is oil, just make sure you change it based on the oil life monitor Additives are not necessary and NEVER use 20W50, ill bet it says 5W30 Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinter10 Posted November 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 ok thanks a lot I will pick everything up and change it this weekend and hopefully take it out and run it on the highway and up the hills that it over heated on. It is in the 30's now so might get a false sense of security that it is fixed until it gets warmer out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 30, 2010 Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 Good luck, lets us know how it goes Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinter10 Posted December 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2010 Driving the car home today I decided to try the cruise control again now that I checked the fuse for it and it all worked fine acceleration and everything I guess it was just a bug before that threw that code and for it not ot work just had to reset. I talked to the guy that just worked on the car before we baught it about the other code about the engine light and he had no idea and then brought up that the light was on when he had the computer plugged into it just running the basic codes and after he fixed it and my dad went to change the spark plugs my dad saw the light on and then as my dad chenged them he cleared the codes and then the light was out. He did not do anything but clear the codes and my dad saw that the light was no longer on. When I first turn the ignition on all of the warning lights but the check engine light lights up. Is it possible that the bulb just decided to blow out. I never paied attention to it when I first got the car to see it it worked or it didn't. How would I check to see this type of thing? Is there a fuze that can blow or a way I can jump something to see if it comes on? Thanks a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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