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Everything posted by Ranger

  1. Start by pulling the DTC's. I'd suspect a stuck air mix actuator.
  2. Water bridge? If you mean the crossover manifold, prepare yourself. It is a royal PITA to do with the engine in the car.
  3. There should be instructions with the test kit. Do the test after an overheat episode, but let the engine cool enough to safely open the cap and DO NOT top off the coolant before testing.
  4. I don't know where you read that, but it's false. No way you can avoid getting air into the system, but it's no big deal. The system is self purging. Just check the coolant level a few times after you rfill it as it may need a slight top off.
  5. Your fuel pressure is just fine. Mine idles at 38-39 psi. Your temperatures however, are not. Get a block test kit and check for exhaust gases in the surge tank. You can borrow one from AutoZone and just pay for the test fluid.
  6. You have the correct procedure for a 2001. Was the ignition on or off? I think it has to be on, but I would not swear to that.
  7. With the system off, both side equalize and the low side will rise, while the high side decreases, but those readings are useless. I thought the low side should be 30-35 and the high side should be 2 - 2.5 times the outside temperature or 180 - 225 at 90 degrees (system running).
  8. Not positive, but I don't think the supply and return lines have changed. Best price I found for Dexron VI was Walmarts SuperTech brand. I don't remember the price, but it was about 50% cheaper than anything else I found.
  9. I don't know what the difference between brake cleaner and MAF cleaner, but brakkleen evaporates quickly and leaves no residue behind, much like MAF cleaner. I doubt there is much difference. Personally, I agree with C&C and think either would work just fine.
  10. A faulty FPR cannot affect the fuel gauge. However, when you introduce "fuel used" into the thread, fuel pressure becomes an issue. True, but the OP said "The computer says the car has only used 12 gallons but it takes 19 to fill it up". That's a 7 gallon difference. I don't think a faulty FPR could leak that bad. If somehow it was, wouldn't you think that the car would be running terribly bad and billowing black smoke Jim?
  11. True, but fuel pressure is not part of the calibration.
  12. Most likely a bad fuel level sensor. Bruce, Fuel pressure has nothing to do with the fuel used calculation. The PCM simply counts injector pulses and pulse width (injector open duration) and then does the calculations. A leaky FPR should not affect the fuel gauge.
  13. Makle sure all the intake ducting is connected tightly. Don't change the fuel pump without first checking the fuel pressure. Check the FPR for a leak and check to be sure you do not have a clogged CAT.
  14. P0741 alone is a TC seal that is leaking. GM recommends replacing the TC. If it is accompanied by P1860, then it is an electrical problem (TCC solenoid). http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/northstar-performance-technical-discussion/149834-information-p0741-p1860-1998-a.html
  15. You can borrow the kit for free from AutoZone or any other parts store that has a loan-a-tool program and just pay for the test fluid.
  16. Pull the DTC's. Post them AND their definitions.
  17. Yes, most likely it is cloged at the hollow bolt it attaches to at the other end on the crossover manifold. Remove the line and clear the obstruction. It's most likely clogged with sealant tab residue.
  18. Yeah, basically it hardens when it mixes with air and moisture. The manufacturers claim that it does not clog orifice tubes or compressors, but then what else would you expect them to say. What happens when the system has a leak or is opened or is serviced improperly and gets air and/or moisture in it? Unlike a cooling system, the A/C system has components with some fine tolerences. If you have that stuff in the system and you go to have it serviced and they detect it, they may well refuse to service the car. They don't want that crap in their systems either. Personally, I would never use that stuff, despite what the manufacturers say about it.
  19. The head bolts where lengthened in 2000. The coarser thread did not come until sometime in '04.
  20. DO NOT use a refrigerant with a sealer in it or add any type of sealant to the refrigeration system.
  21. No "need" for synthetic. Conventional oil will do just fine. You're reading too many oil myths. Use whatever oil you like.
  22. Don't waste money on Chiltons or Haynes manuals. Get a real FSM by Helm inc. Ebay is your freind.
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