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Cadillac Jim

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Cadillac Jim last won the day on September 22 2020

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About Cadillac Jim

  • Birthday 09/22/2015

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  • Car Model and Year
    2011 CTS-V Sedan
  • Engine
    Supercharged 6.2L (LSA)

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    South Jersey
  • Interests
    Handling, performance, reliability, maintenance, photography, math, science, physics, engineering, Cadillacs

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  1. I would start with making sure all the fuses are good, then disconnecting the battery for a minute or two. After driving the car for a day or two to let everthing relearn, go to Autozone or other outfit that will read your OBD II codes if you are still having problems. Please post the OBD II codes here. The codes will likely tell what is not working or getting power.
  2. There are two fuses to check: Under hood fuse block, fuse 42 RDO, 15 Amp, and the instrument panel fuse block fuse RSE, 5 Amp. Going farther than that needs more information. Does your nav system or anything else on the front seat screen come on? Any other details will help. The best thing to do is to go by an Autozone or other outfit that will read out your OBD codes and give them to you, then post them here.
  3. All cars have an oil filter adaptor, because casting a block with an oil filter center thread and O-ring gap is not really a thoughtful thing to do. If anyone ever puts a jack under your oil filter, you will be thankful for that feature. If someone has put a dummy in place of your oil filter, that's not a good thing to leave there. Chilton's manuals are still available for vintage cars, and you can verify the oil filter placement and part number for name brands like Fram or AC/Delco. If you need a new adaptor, a salvage yard is your best option. Oil pressure sending units should still be available form the aftermarket. JC Whitney specializes in parts for cars 10-20 years old but has parts for older cars as well. Recycling yard engines for Cadillac years 1963-1975, endings with 390 ci, 429 ci, 472 ci, and 500 ci have similar accessory mounting and the oil filter adaptor should work on your 1963 engine. The older engines were a different design, even the 1959-1962 390 cid, and most parts aren't interchangeable with 1963 and later engines.
  4. What happens when the pedal is on the medal and the engine is holding at 3000 RPM? Is is missing and stuttering, or is it just wheezing and holding? If it's missing and stuttering, it could be ignition problems. If it's wheezing but smooth, it could be a clogged catalytic converter. That's just a sample of the possibilities. We need more information to figure things out. The OBD codes can tell exactly what is wrong. The OBD codes don't show as blinking lights, and sometimes they don't cause a "Check Engine" light to come on. And, the bulb in the "Check Engine" light can be out. An Autozone, Pep Boys, or other similar shop will check your OBD I (OBD II started in the 1996 model year) trouble codes. There is a way to get them from the A/C console yourself, if you are prepared to figure it out for your car.
  5. The two most likely causes of a B0533 are a wiring problem and a worn-out fuel level sensor. Unplugging the harness and plugging it back in, disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, resetting the codes from the A/C controls, all will have the same effect until the problem is fixed: no change. But this won't keep your car from starting. What other codes do you have? The codes most likely to cause a no-start condition are Pnnnn (powertrain) codes.
  6. There are too many digits in your code; I'll assume that it is B0533 Fuel Sensor Open/Shorted To B+ That could be just a bad connection somewhere between the tank and the PCM. But, usually, it's a bad fuel level sensor, contact worn out and gone open. Is your gas gauge pinned to Empty or Full? You can read and reset the codes from the HVAC controls on a 1997; see link in my signature block.
  7. This is the first time I've seen a transmission service solve a no-drive problem too. Yes, I service my transmission every 60,000 miles at most. Before Dexron VI, it was every 30,000 miles. Other than a used car that I bought with an overfilled transmission, I've never had an auto transmission problem.
  8. I sort of thought that this is what happened but I had no way of knowing for sure. I would service the transmission every 60,000 miles or better to keep it working well.
  9. That's wonderful news. Some micro metal in the pan is normal for any automatic transmission. It's an old AAMCO trick from the 1960's to show that to a customer to sell a rebuild instead of just a service. Be sure and check the transmission fluid level according to factory instructions after running it a few days.
  10. I found that there is an identification plate on the 6L50/6L80/6L90. Take a photo of it with your cell phone. Make sure that it is clear and focused so that you can read everything on it.
  11. You have the 6-speed? It looks like it may have been overfilled, which is a sign that the previous owners were having trouble with it and added fluid trying to fix it. If you have 4WD, there is a remote possibility that you have a transfer case problem. But, at this point, there seems to be two ways to go: Get a used transmission from a recycling yard, Get the OBD codes and evaluate the future of the car and the cost of a rebuilt transmission. The OBD codes are important because you can find other problems in the car that may affect your decision. We can interpret them for you if you post them here. Be sure and get all of them. Only a really good laptop-based OBD code reader will get all of them. They fall in four categories: powertrain (Pnnnn format, where each n is a number), body (Bnnnn), chassis (Cnnnn) and network (Unnnn). If all you see are Pnnnn codes, you aren't getting all of them. The FSM lists about 60 codes to look for from the 6L50/6L80/6L90, all Pnnnn format. Note that an ordinary DIY code reader that shows emissions-related codes will not show transmission codes. You will need the exact model of your transmission. I don't know where the numbers are on your transmission. The VIN for your car will be associated with the right parts anywhere on the car, though, so write that down first. With the VIN, and possibly some numbers off the transmission (if any), you can then identify the right recycling yard used transmission or get a realistic quote for an exchange rebuilt transmission. Or, you can use the VIN to get the right rebuild kit for your transmission; if you decide to rebuild it, understand that you may need sprags and other parts that aren't always part of a kit. The "no drive" problem could involve the torque converter, too.
  12. The 2009 model year is certainly made after Cadillac stopped allowing the OBD codes to be read through the dashboard. Also, the 2009 SRX may have the 5L40-E/5L50E or the 6L50/6L80/6L90. If you noticed whether you have five or six gears before the transmission stopped driving, that can help. Otherwise, you can use the location of the inspection plug to tell. In the 6Lx0 transmissions, the transmission oil level inspection plug is on the bottom of the front, flat part of the transmission oil pan (see figure). From the FSM: "More information, including an instructional video, can be found at the following GM training websites: www.gmtraining.com: 17041.62V - 6-Speed Automatic Transmission Fluid Checking and Filling Procedures, www.gmtrainingcollege.com: A26021.01T - Check and Fill Procedure for 6-Speed Automatic Transmissions." By 2009 all GM car and light truck automatic transmissions were using Dexron VI. Don't use Dexron III in these transmissions. If you need to add fluid to a 6-speed, use the fill tube plug (see figure). As you know, checking and filling automatic transmission fluid involves warming up the transmission, cycling the transmission through all the gears, and putting the car on a lift while running. Or, putting it on jack stands before warming up the transmission etc. I haven't looked at the videos but they probably have enough to refresh you on everything you need to remember.
  13. The 5L40-E/5L50-E used in the 2006 SRX uses a transmission fluid level hole plug. The FSM shows three locations, depending on model. The plug is horizontal, just above the oil pan gasket (see figure below). Full is fluid at the bottom of the hole with the bolt removed. The FSM says to use a screwdriver as a dipstick to look at and smell the fluid. Fluid level is supposed to be measured when the fluid is between about 90 F and 120 F, with the car level. If fluid is OK but low, add fluid until it starts to drain out the inspection hole. The filter is inside the pan, as with most automatic transmissions. For the "no drive" condition, the FSM symptom table is dire. The headings are Forward Clutch Assembly, Forward Clutch Sprag, Fluid Pump, Low Clutch Sprag, and Input and Reaction Carrier (gears). Perhaps fluid leaked out while the car was sitting and the fluid pump needs a higher fluid level, though. I believe that 2006 was the last year that you could read out the OBD codes on the dash info center or entertainment center. If so, you might read the codes and post them here. If not, a code reader that includes transmission codes (most home DIY code readers just read emissions-related codes) would help, or you can take the car to an Autozone or other shop that offers to read your OBD codes for free.
  14. I didn't know that there was an entertainment center over-the-air fix until I saw his video. If his repair bill was paid by insurance, I'm sure that it was properly audited before payment. Great idea to invite him here.
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