Cadillac Jim

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Cadillac Jim last won the day on January 15

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About Cadillac Jim

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    Cadillac: Comfort, safety, and competence
  • Birthday 09/22/2015

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    South Jersey
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    Handling, performance, reliability, maintenance, photography, math, science, physics, engineering, Cadillacs

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  • Car Model and Year
    2011 CTS-V Sedan
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    Supercharged 6.2L (LSA)

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  1. Cadillac Jim


    Note that I haven't had that car for over five years now. I've put the manuals away, but will get them if needed here. I have GM shop manuals for 2002-2012 model years on DVD, so if you decide to look at a 4T80E from the 2004 model year or later to get the electronically controlled converter clutch, I'll be able to look at the connectors to get a good idea whether it is compatible with the stock 1996 PCM, see if the PCM does anything when the P0730 is set. I see from my summaries that it is a type C, which means that it turns on the MIL. If you do change the final drive ratio, you will want to store it in the PCM with a Tech II to get the speedometer calibration right, and that should turn off the P0730. I don't know if there is another number in the PCM that you can change when the tire rolling diameter changes, but I would expect that there is.
  2. Cadillac Jim


    A really slick Seville. My last upgrade was new center caps with the raised gold wreath and painted coat-of-arms on the logo. CardioDoc on Wheels has them. The dealer tried to sell me those when I bought the car but they were $125 each, $500 for the four, so I waited to do that for a mid-life upgrade.
  3. Cadillac Jim


    If all you want is 155 mph, I think all you need is the 3.48 final drive ratio and a tune-up that gives you factory-new ignition and fuel injector performance. I'm assuming that the P0730 doesn't do anything other than display the code. Check the compression and see if it is in spec. Except for the head leakage, the compression should check OK if you plan to push the performance envelope. If not, you need to look at valves or stuck rings. When my car was a few months old, the dealer reprogrammed my PCM for performance. The car is a 1997 ETC, which probably has the same PCM as your car. No matter what they tell you, you can program the stock PCM within some limits, and anyone with a Tech II and the proper training should be able to do it. My personal opinion is that every Northstar is safe from head gasket failure with regular coolant changes. I know of only one that was driven regularly, was well maintained, and had a head gasket failure in under 100,000 miles, was a young fellow in Boston with another 1997 ETC, and his happened at about 80,000 miles, I believe. Since I didn't maintain or tear down his engine, I can't comment on what happened. He was ripped because one limit on the drivetrain warranty for 1997 was 60,000 miles. Another personal opinion that others here may not share is that the Timeserts are a perfectly good repair. One advantage is that with a Timesert repair and new GM head bolts you get the clamping force versus engine temperature that GM designed for this engine. Just don't cut corners, vet the block for sound bolt holes and don't be afraid to get another block if there is any doubt, and take your time in both the drilling and tapping operations.
  4. Cadillac Jim


    Whoops, I forgot about the Z-rated-tires requirement for no speed limiting. The speed limiting is by retarding the spark and cutting the spark and possibly the gas on the same cylinder(s) intermittently to keep the power down, I believe. Cutting the gas alone would be hard on the engine and could result in a holed piston. Going much over redline won't work well. The valves will start to float pretty close to the top of redline and the torque will drop off precipitously. 150 mph is pretty much all there is with the 3.71 gears. Shimming the valve springs may be an option for a bit more redline; check with your engine tuner. I'm not aware of any torque converter lockup issues at top speed. If you use a 4T80E from the 2004 model year or later, the torque converter lockup changed to an electronically controlled converter clutch that year, eliminating all RPM loss once lockup is established. If you do go to the Aurora final drive ratio of 3.48, the speed at redline increases to 160 mph. Using the SLS/ESC final drive ratio of 3.11, the speed at redline is 180 mph, meaning that you will be drag limited. If you are serious about top speed, I would seriously consider a later 4T80E and the 3.48 final drive ratio from an Aurora transmission. Check with your performance chip people about disabling P0730 or programming it for your new final drive ratio; it should be a no-brainer with their performance changes because it's just one number to change, and a number that's normally part of the factor/dealer programming of the 4T80E. That same number in the PCM is probably used in speedometer calibration. I believe that GM made a lot more gear ratios for the 4T80E because the RPO range FV0-FV9 includes final drive ratios 3.11 and 3.71, but cover final drive ratios from 2.86 to 4.12. If you include the FQ2-FQ9 range of RPO codes that includes FQ2 for 3.48, the Aurora standard final drive ratio, the range of final drive ratios goes to 4.53. There are a handfull of other transaxle ratios listed here: but those include other transmissions besides the 4T80E. Then, there is use of tires with a larger rolling diameter. The standard tires for the 1990's E/K platform is 26.6 inches, which is pretty big already. A clean-sheet-of-paper look at things may have you going to different wheels and tires that have a smaller rolling diameter, which would force you to look at changing the final drive ratio.
  5. Cadillac Jim


    The STS and ETC don't have a speed limiter. The engine redlines at 150 mph. The final drive ratio could be changed from the STS/ETC "performance" 3.71 ratio to the SLS/ESC 3.11 ratio, or the 3.43 ratio used in the Aurora, but that will trigger P0730 "Incorrect gear ratio" with your stock PCM. This might or might not be something that you could fix with the reprogrammed PCM; if you are getting the chip from Northstar Performance, ask them about that, and also about changing the final drive ratio when they rebuild your 4T80E. Tire-chirping hard shifts as a regular thing are a bit much for daily drivers. In other cars, I've heard of such changes causing problems in the driveline over time, such as gears or bearings in the differential giving up and such. You can get exactly the same effect by pulling the shifter down in to 1 for a manual shift to 2 or just to 2 and let the transmission give you the performance shift at redline. I wouldn't ask for a tire-burning shift if was going to drive the car every day. They should have a performance shift programming scheme for people that drive the car every day that matches up well with the Stage 3 chip, or even is part of the Stage 3 chip. I personally like high drive ratios. You give up snap off the line for more legs in the lower gears, lower cruise RPM, and possibly higher top speed. You may get better gas mileage and, depending on the terrain that you drive in and such, longer gears can be easier on the engine. Performance as measured in the quarter mile may actually improve, or if you have a big flat spot off the line, times will increase - but I don't think that you will have any such flat spot off the line with the 4T80E.
  6. Cadillac Jim

    The ongoing Deville thread

    Real rubber is one of the few things that expands as it gets colder. I don't know if neoprene or whatever they use in the air bags has that unusual property or not.
  7. Cadillac Jim

    The ongoing Deville thread

    I've known a lot of airbags that had a short in the fuse box, but this is the first time I've heard of one on the steering wheel of a Cadillac.
  8. Cadillac Jim

    The ongoing Deville thread

    The clockspring is what I was referring to. Check the rest of the wires down the column and see if that's where the short is. If it's a function of temperature and doesn't act up when the wheel is turned, the short might be somewhere else. I would check the harness at the firewall feedthrough to the horn relay.
  9. Cadillac Jim

    The ongoing Deville thread

    If you've already replaced the wiring in the steering column when you replaced the airbags, you have done the worst of the jobs. If you left the wiring in the steering column, then look at it, some insulation may be worn through somewhere. There is a spiral ribbon cable between the rotating parts and the non-rotating parts that is the first place to look.
  10. Cadillac Jim

    The ongoing Deville thread

    The horns are important and may be items on your safety inspection for registering the car. There are only these items: Horn button and wiring down the steering column. Horn relays. Horns themselves sticking. Wiring and connectors. In other words, very doable. OBD codes may be able to help but you will need either a test light or a voltmenter/ohmmeter to find the problems. I would start with the relays, if only because that's the simplest fix. If the horns click when the horn button is pushed, it's the horns themselves, and if you use them a few times they may unstick.
  11. Cadillac Jim

    SRX radio and navi problem

    I would check the ground connections. Begin with the ardruino connections, make sure that they are all good connections. If you remove any of the splices, use new splices. Never re-use electrical parts for crimping or splicing. I believe that you can still run the OBD codes yourself in a 2006 model; I'm not sure about the SRX model. There may not be a problem with the voltage readings. There are several points that the car reads the voltage: at the alternator armature, where 15.5 Volts is normal when the battery is charging, which always happens right after you start the car, the system battery voltage which is at the maxifuse block under the hood which should be about 14 Volts when the engine is running, and at the battery, which should be a few tenths of a Volt higher than the system voltage. Note that the voltage reading will vary a bit depending on where you have the ground connected. When you are measuring with a voltmeter, the nearest large metal body part, like a dashboard support, is good. Another thing to check if the volatages are strange is the battery ground cable. There are three battery ground cable connections: one on the right rear of the engine, one on the inner fender wall near the battery, and a wiring harness connector. Those all need to be clean and tight. Both battery cable connections to the battery should be clean and tight, too. Sometimes corrosion builds up to the point that the connection is less than perfect on either or both the positive terminal to red cables, or negative terminal to black cables.
  12. The nominal rolling diameter of your 275/40ZR18 tires is 26.66 inches, which compares to the nominal rolling diameter of factory 225/60WR16 tires of 26.63 inches (actual published for factory Goodyears is 26.6 inches). The difference is negligible, meaning that diameter won't cause fitment issues and the standard gear rations for the 4T80E transmission (3.11, 3.4, 3.71) will work too. Any interference issues will come from width or large negative camber at highest suspension travel. Your new tires are about two inches wider than the stock tires. With the proper offset (the axis of the strut passing through the center of the patch on the front), that's about an inch less clearance inboard and outboard, which may be tight but certainly doable with possible minor mods of the fender liners. Nominal rolling diameter is width*(aspect/100)+(rim size), all converted to inches. (275*(40/100))/25.4+18=26.66.
  13. Cadillac Jim

    Power window control problem

    I think that this needs a new thread because it's another car and the diagnosis will be independent of the 2011 problem and solution. First, why doesn't the door open? Can you open it with the handles? Is is stuck, or is the mechanical mechanism stuck? It might make a difference if it's the right or left door. By "passenger" I think you mean the right door (my thinking is that both of them are passenger doors in the back seat, unless you drive your mother-in-law around). In the rear fuse block, there is a 10 Amp fuse marked RRDR MDL. You can try that first. If you are lucky, that just could be your only problem.
  14. Don't blame yourself. Apparently the RS00 was shipped to you in a mode that wouldn't work in your car, and the means of changing the mode to match what your instructions say dosen't seem to be available. The quote you gave for the email from Crimestoppers struck me as having inscrutable comments or possibly information not related to your questions or even the RS00. One thing you might consider is to email Crimestoppers again, with a very short question: "How do I get my RS00 into the mode of accepting three clicks on the GM factory remote 'Lock' button to start the car?" When they come back with something that you can't relate to, or can't figure out how to make things work, then, REPEAT THE QUESTION. As in "Yes, but, how do I get my RS00 into the mode of accepting three clicks on teh GM factory remote 'Lock' button to start the car?" If Crimestoppers has an open forum like Caddyinfo, find it and look for the answer there. If you don't find it, start your own topic there. Report back here and give a link to the thread.
  15. I believe that the instructions on changing the mode of the RS00 to 3 push is key. The instructions on entering the programming mode were for another Crimestoppers unit entirely and don't apply to the RS00; they apparently programmed the remote and the RS00 doesn't have a remote because it uses the car's remote. If the car starts with the key as always, the RS00 LED responds to inputs, then if the RS00 has its starter control wire hooked to the Escalade YEL, LT/GRN or PPL/WHT wire and puts power to that, the Escalade should crank. If the RS00 has its continue-to-run wire hooked to the Escalade PNK wire, and power to that is provided by the RS00 once the Start signal is recognized, the Escalade will continue to run once started. Checking the wiring by looking at the splices and connectors and checking the colors is good, but there is no substitute for a test light or voltmeter to make sure that the actual electrical connections are solid. Without the instructions to guide me on exactly how the RS00 is hooked to the Escalade, here is what I think might be a way to hook switched power wires from the RS00; you need to check (and correct if necessary) instructions from Crimestoppers for intstalling the RS00. The wires to the Fuse Block Left I/P connector C3 terminal A may be YEL to start, terminal C PNK to run; these wires run to the ignition switch. The wires on C1 are past the fuses and may be used; they are terminal A1 PNK and terminal D5 LT GRN. I have to wonder why the RS00 would be shipped in a mode that starts the car when you press Lock once on the remote. That clearly isn't a useful mode. Making it necessary for the installer to change the mode during installation is a huge barrier to DIY installation and doesn't seem to have a valid purpose except to discourage DIY installation. If so, getting through this last step is the key to being done with a successful installation