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caddypete

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Everything posted by caddypete

  1. Wow! That was awhile back! The wire that had rubbed thru on the power steering pump caused a short,That caused a fuse to blow. I cannot remember off my head what fuse it was I will have to look for that invoice for that repair. But the dealer replaced it and reset the codes and it worked fine after that
  2. I agree do the block test. But running normal temp at freeway and cooling down when the fans come on would leave me to to believe it is a radiator problem not a head gasket. At highway speed the air is forced thru the radiator and when both fans kick in it draws air thru the radiator. I would look for restrictions in the radiator or debris between the radiator and the air conditioning condenser. when the car gets to a certain temp it will automatically shut down the air conditioner to keep the car from overheating thats why when hot the AC doesn't appear to be working.Personally I wouldn't worry about the headgasket your overheating would happen climbing steep grades or under hard accleration
  3. http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/us120426.htm Read this article on anti freeze, make your own decision. Or stick with the Dexcool just change it every few years. Caddy did put a line in the cooling system to purge air out of the system so that is a plus to help keeping the air out of Dexcool.
  4. In my opinion a Northstar with 40,000 miles will not give you grief for quite a few miles. In 2000 they made improvments to the headbolts making them longer and coarser thread. Maintaning the coolant is important (I'll probably get flak for saying this) Dexcool turns acidic when air gets into it which will damage aliuminum.Personaly I have switched to the all purpose anti freeze anytime I changed the anti freeze in any car that runs Dexcool. Buy the car and enjoy it why worry about what might or might not happen?
  5. I remember looking into that swap awhile back, and I recall they are interchangable. The only problem was if you tried to intecahange a vin y with a vin 9 due to different redlines and outputs,but the only difference between the two was the intake cams and programing
  6. Oil additives are for people who don't maintain thier oil correctly, additives cleans sludge, but then again so does kerosene. If you maintain your oil correctly you should get no build up of anything. As for the slick 50, I had a friend who had a main bearing going and added Slick 50, the motor held out for a few months. When it was time to rebuild the motor, the mechanic could not get the cylinders honed because the stones couldn't get a grab on the cylinder walls so it had to be rebored. I would have to say Slick 50 did coat the engine parts with a good slippery protectant.
  7. If you ran it that hard and the needle on the temp gauge didn't move, I would wonder if the dealer wasn't trying to sell a new car.I would do a coolant change and drive the car a few hundred miles and have the test redone
  8. This is copied from a site on Northstar headgasket diagnostics, it states that your car can pass tests and still have a blown gasket. It maybe fine with the engine cold but as it heats up, things expand and what didn't leak cold is leaking now. Here are the most common signs of head gasket failure on a Northstar: - Overheating - High pressure build-up in the coolant surge (fill) tank, that remains when the engine cools off - Heavy white smoke from the tail pipes (condensation & water vapor is completely normal for any car) - Coolant smell from the exhaust - Engine temperature spikes during acceleration or climbing steep grades - Coolant in the oil (this will turn the oil a milky white or light brown) - Sudden severe oil leak coming from rear main seal area The best test there is, make sure you have adequate coolant, and get the car on the highway and do a few quick acceleration runs. Get the car quickly up to 70 MPH (120km/h) and slow back down to around 30 MPH (50km/h). Only do this where it is legal! Repeat this process, monitoring coolant temperature. If you have the guage, the temperature should never normally run past the 5/8 mark. If you have the digital read-out, the temp should never hit the 240 degree F mark. If the temp keeps climbing to the point where it tells you "A/C off for engine protection" or "Engine hot - idle engine", or your guage passes the 3/4 mark, pull over immediately, let the car idle for a minute and shut it off. Let it cool down a bit, top off your coolant and make your way back home. At this point, keep your foot out of the gas as much as possible. Your head gaskets are blown / head bolts pulled. Many repair shops are capable of diagnosing a bad head gasket but not all of them know how to deal with the Northstar. Did you know a Northstar can pass all the usual pressure tests, and still have a bad head gasket? This is due to the troublesome head bolts. This is why we recommend the method above for determining the state of your gaskets. So what to do now? Well, for starters, DON'T use any type of quick-fix in a bottle. I'm sure you've read about miracle sealants that are designed for the Northstar and a bunch of other stuff on the market. All this will do is clog up the coolant passages. The guy who does your head gaskets won't appreciate the mess that will need to be cleaned out once he tears your engine down, and you won't like replacing your radiator and heater core. Of course it is never a bad idea replacing your water pump, checking the belt and tensioner, cooling fan operation (they do fail sometimes) and if in doubt, a new radiator. But a lot of the time, nothing but the head gaskets will need to be done. If you have coolant in your oil, stop driving, period. Don't run the car at all. This can severely damage your engine. If you must move the car, make sure the oil is at the proper level and not too high. If you are seeing moderate to heavy white smoke, don't try to start the car again- get to where you need to go and shut the car off. Especially if you have a 2000 or newer model- the engines are not as strong and have been snapping/bending connecting rods when coolant gets in the cyinders. If you are getting exhaust gasses in the coolant (pressure in the plastic coolant tank), it is OK to drive the car providing you can keep your speed down to about 50MPH (80km/h) and you keep checking/topping off your coolant. No more sudden acceleration or passing, and stay away from long hills. Just don't overheat the engine. Regardless of what the owner's manual says, it's not OK to continue to drive without coolant- these cars have a limp-mode but it is not very effective. If you have overheated your engine, the oil-life-monitor will return to 0%. You should change your oil after overheating the engine
  9. The Eldo battery is in the engine compartment, not under the seat. But I'm sure you already know that because you had to jump the car. So you do not need to worry about how the battery vents
  10. I would bet if he hooks a pressure gauge at the fuel rail he will get a 0 reading.He stated he hears the pump and disconnected fuel line before the filter and gets nothing which means the pump is running but its not pumping any fuel. I would suspect a pinched line or the line is no longer connected to the pump. Don't know if that model has a access panel to the fuel pump, that would make things alot easier to check out.
  11. Also check the PVC valve hoses to see if they are on tight. the elbow especially they get hard and crack.
  12. I would go back and check your fuses, you may have blown one when you went to start the car. Can you hear your fuel pump come on when you turn the car on?The fuel pump relay and the air conditioner relay are the same so try switching those two if your fuel pump isn't coming on. Usually if you get the theft signal the car won't crank, but yours cranks but won't start which makes it sound like the engine is not getting fuel or spark
  13. You are probably going to have to wait until the wiring dries out. You can try a leaf blower or shop vac useing the hose on the outlet side to speed up the process, even a hair dryer
  14. Yep, but the original poster was trying to figure out what generation engine he had,I just wanted to help him get the right parts.You would think the parts place would know by the year when they looked it up,but nothing is ever simple. To me a Northstar is a Northstar whatever year it was made or what anyone wants to call it.
  15. This is a qoute from HOT ROD magazine online CHRF says there are three different Northstar generations. Your engine falls into the '93 to '99 first generation. The second-generation engines were available beginning around 2000 and have significant differences, including roller rockers/followers instead of the previous bucket lifters, but overall, the heads don't have as much potential. The third stage in the Northstar's evolution introduced variable valve timing (VVT) on the rear- and all-wheel-drive XLR starting in 2004. VVT has not been used on transverse, FWD Northstars due to packaging constraints. The longitudinally mounted, normally aspirated LH2 is rated at 320 hp and 315 lb-ft. There was also a 9.0:1 LC3 4.4L supercharged Northstar with VVT introduced in 2006 (STS-V, 469 hp/439 lb-ft; SLR-V, 443 hp/414 lb-ft). Read more: http://www.hotrod.com/pitstop/hrdp_1006_northstar_cadillac_engine_buildup_question/viewall.html#ixzz1c2WrawR9
  16. I am pretty sure 93-99 are first generation, then 2000 on are second. when they changed to c.o.p ignition, longer head bolts and no longer required premium fuel
  17. I have a set of 4 (alloy not chrome) that I got off a 94 ETC I was going to use them as my winter rims.I sold my Caddy in the meantime. I just found out that they will fit my Pontiac and was going to use them as summer rims on it and save the hassle of switching tires off the rims every season.They have tires mounted on them. 2 good and two I would replace. What I was thinking buy 2 16" tires and have a set for each season since my pontiac has 15" rims. Give me a offer on them. I can post pics if you would like.
  18. It is a pain to reach that sensor with most O2 sensor sockets, I use a crowfoot wrench and can get it out.In case you dont know what that is, it is a open end wrench that fits on a 3/8 drive rachet. use a long extension, it is time consuming cause you can only get small turns at a time but once it is loose you can turn it out with your fingers.
  19. E values coolant temp 64 battery volts 32 engine rpm 16 avg mph 8 mph 4 fuel used 2 instant mpg 1 Your display is set at 43 battery volts 32 avg mph 8 fuel used 2 instant mpg 1 That equals 43, if you add coolant temp at 64 you would have 107, if you add engine rpm at 16 you would have 123
  20. That is correct,when I first got my Eldo I wanted to see how it performed manually shifting it. To my surprise the engine redlined quicker than I could react just when I was going to let off the pedal the tranny self shifted, I kept it floored and at redline it shifted again. Wasn't going to see if it went into overdrive by itself cause I was already way over the speed limit, it probably can't red line third gear cause of speed limiter
  21. I'm surprised noone has told him to check the bolt that comes from the water pump! The line that goes from the resevior, across the front of engine and then into a hollow bolt on water pump. Take that bolt out and see if it is clogged, on my car it was partially plugged and caused loss of coolant and then overheating. I believe it causes too much pressure in the resivoir cap causing it to release coolant and you never see any coolant because it is going out the overflow tube thus you think it is being lost internally. Then a blown headgasket is your conclusion because no leak and overheating.
  22. I did mine without removing the filter or adapter,it wasn't easy but a 1/4 drive and extension with a swivel I got them replaced
  23. You probably could stop the leak with hose and clamps, but with 40 lbs of pressure do you really want to risk a fire? The right thing to do is replace the rail it is not really a difficult job. I found a fuel rail with all injectors and fpr for 25.00 on ebay. A junk yard couldn't cost you that much.
  24. I would agree 5-20 is to light of an oil, 20-50 seems a little heavy unless you live in a climate that never sees cold temps. 20-50 is what I run in a air cooled Harley in the summer.
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