Engine overheats and heater blows cold air

[BodybyFisher]

I called up a couple napas they didn't have it (Or they did and didn't know it) iT actually just boiled over with the cap off then I shut it off and checked it as it was still kinda steaming so I got a pretty goot test of It I think.

The repair in a bottle was not what I want I want what comes with there $150 kit witch is a t and a hose that creats a second purge line apearantly to get rid of air bubble better then stock. Witch I beleive northstar did with the new model cars because GM knew there was a problem at times purging the air out. I know I talked to one guy that said that they were notoriouse for this.

I am so sick of your *smurf*, I really am. I am done with this thread, you are close to an imbicil if you ask me.

DID YOU PRINT OUT MY LINK TO THE NAPA KIT IN MY POST #131 AND TAKE IT TO THEM? PROBABLY NOT

You have fn ignored what I said. You make *smurf* hole statements, AGAINST what very experienced people here say. You HAVE NOT, removed the bolt with a hole in it, THAT is the FN air purge line that you have NOT removed.

DO YOU REALLY THINK THAT "SOME GUY" HAS MORE EXPERIENCE THAN THIS BOARD? IF I HAD THE POWER, ID BAN YOU, I AM BEGINNING TO THINK YOU ARE A TROLL AND YOU ARE JERKING OUR CHAINS.

NO GM DID NOT ADD A SECOND PURGE LINE and THERE IS NO PROBLEM YOU are the PROBLEM and YOU ARE STILL TALKING ABOUT DRIPPING, and YOU DID NOT ANSWER MY QUESTION ABOUT THIS STATEMENT YOU MADE

Just got back from DMV with New license in hand. I can not thank this board enough on everyones help and support including patience with me as a newbie. we are down to one small leak on the rf with the small hose that goes to the air conditioner I will jack it up tonight and replace the sping clip with a real hose clamp

IF YOU ARE NOT GOING TO LISTEN, ANSWER QUESTIONS, AND FOLLOW DIRECTIONS, PLEASE GO FIND "SOME GUY" AND STOP COMING HERE AND WASTING OUR TIME. I REALLY THINK YOU ARE JERKING US OFF

[BodybyFisher]

I was just reading on a nother site that there is the fix in the bottle company RX Auto that sells an entire kit just for cadillacs it comes with there gasket in a bottle along with a t fitting and some other instuctions and has you put in a second return purge line then flush the gasket in a bottle through it.

I want apsolutly nothing to do with a gasket in a bottle fix and oviously when the problem would be stripped bolt threads and not even the head gasket. But just looking at the system myself I see that it does not look like it can get all of the air out of the system and man do I have air in the system

When ever I pull away from a red light or even just rev the motor to 1,500-2,500 normall driving I get a crazy amount of air sounds in the coolant and its been like this for days. Before I start the car I have been checking my coolant level to see it is not lowering at all. If there were air in the system that was being purged out then the coolant level would drop because the coolant will get pulled in to take up the space that the air was taking up. I was thinking about finding some big inclines that I can run the car up and down on at random different angles to try and work some of the bubbles out maby having the drivers side higher where the purge line is?

I Didn't know if the accelerating force was the reason for the bubbling sound or not so while I was driving I put the car in N and slowly reved the engine at idel I heard nothing but as I reved it up more and more sloshing gurgling sounds I heard. I called up 2 places today and they didn't have the tester. The guy at advance said it was expensive. I found someone else that sais autozone has it to rent if you buy the fluid So i will do that first thing tomorrow just to get the finall answer. I willl check it cold warm and hot if I can to see if the blue fluid turns yellow I have only added around a few ounces of water today but drove it around 50 miles since and will have a few more before I test it prob be close to 70 or so that should be enough circulation to get rid of the new stuff I put in the tank. I am bringing it to my friend to look at tomorrow to get his ideas on the air bubbles that might be trapped also.

I TAKE MY VALUABLE TIME TO POST THE LOCATION OF THE AIR PURGE BOLT WITH A HOLE IN IT, AND YOU REFUSE TO CHECK IT DUE TO SOME STUPID STATEMENT THAT YOU DONT HAVE A PAIR OF PLIERS......!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

THE ONLY GD WAY TO DETERMINE WHY YOU HAVE AIR IN YOUR SYSTEM IS TO PULL THE BOLT WITH A HOLE IN IT AND CHECK IT AND YOU CANT EVEN DO THAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! AGAIN STUPID EXCUSES

THEN YOU HAVE THE NERVE TO SAY THIS IS DUE TO SOME DEFICIENCY IN THE NORTHSTAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BUT YOU DONT ANSWER QUESTIONS ABOUT LEAKS, YOU STATE YOU STILL HAVE LEAKS ON THE DRIVERS SIDE AND YOU DONT DO AS I ASK, REMOVE THE BOLT WITH A HOLE IN IT, WITH A 15MM WRENCH, MY DAUGHTER COULD DO THAT WITH THE INFO I GAVE YOU, WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH YOU? I TAKE THE TIME TO POST PHOTOS AND DIRECTIONS AND YOU IGNORE THAT...............

END THE GUESSING GAMES CHECK THE BOLT BUT NO, YOU DONT AND GO ON SOME OTHER PATH

MAN YOU ARE USELESS AND I AM DONE HERE

[JimD]

For the possible benefit of future readers, there is considerable urban mythology throughout this thread. Stick to the facts of physics, folks.

.... iT actually just boiled over with the cap off ....

Depending on the altitude where you live, that would be expected from an unpressurized cooling system.

....$150 kit witch is a t and a hose that creats a second purge line apearantly to get rid of air bubble better then stock.

Waste of money. You would be patching a problem that does not exist.

.... Witch I beleive northstar did with the new model cars because GM knew there was a problem at times purging the air out. I know I talked to one guy that said that they were notoriouse for this.

You have been misinformed about the purge system design. To be a little more direct, that is pure unadultered BS.

In my humble 200,000+ miles experience with the Northstar cooling system, it can take 3 to 5 or more thermal cycles for the coolant level in the reservoir to stabilize at a consistent COLD level following the cooling system being opened for repairs.

[Take a deep breath, Mike.]

[BodybyFisher]

Sorry, but we can not help people who dont help themselves, I re-read what I wrote and I must say, it comes from frustration.

We said from the beginning PRESSURE TEST the system and check for leaks and FIX ALL LEAKS and he is STILL talking about leaks. ANY leaks is not good, ANY, that means that PRESSURE also leaks and any IDIOT knows from basic science that if there is NO or LOW pressure the system boils at a lower temp. After all of this time he is still talking about leaks in at least 2 places

When he checked the purge line, his reply about it did not give me any confidence that is was flowing good, TAKE THE BOLT OUT and SEE IF ITS CLEAR.....nope he has no pliers, please

THEN to add salt to the cut, he starts to DUMP on the NORTHSTAR based on SOME GUY'S statement, and as we know, that is where I draw the line.

He comes to the best place for the Northstar and then listens to SOME GUY that the Northstar is somehow flawed.... and he begins talking about $150 repairs

And to top all else, he is still spelling badly after I said use spell check... Is this the dumbing down of America in my face or what?

[caddypete]

Yes it is flustrarating trying to help someone when you are not standing next to them. The Northstar is a unique engine and when your new to them it is confusing because what normally works on other engines doesn't on these. The air purge line for instance, is not normal on most engines and it flows water you think it is ok, but once you do pull it and look at it and realize how small that passage is. Radiator stop leaks or any small particles can restrict that passage easiely and make a big difference. You eventually learn to listen to the people that have been there no matter how you think that has no bearing on your problem. I learned the hard way also.

[sprinter10]

I am sorry I do not know everything and I ment I do not have the special pliers with the cable on it to get into the lower hose on the radiator. About the top purge line I did take if off about 3 weeks ago at the begininning of this journy and saw it was flowing. I am going to remove it again. I get home and check things on the internet and you get mad if I don't get around to doing it at 8:30 at night at my mothers where I do not have a whole assortment of tools

As for spelling I went on the site that you gave me and did not spend a lot of time but say it has all sorts of updates and stuff but I did not see a base download for the originalal program I will look again. I am sorry if a few misspelled words are throwing you off.

I am going to check the purge line right now and I was not able to see my friend today with the garage because he was busy.

I was just asking if a possible purge line that comes in that kit witch I in no way want a (miracle gasket in a bottle) But would look into things to try and burp the system better. I am ignorant to this car, engine, and cooling system why do you think I am on this site in the first place? To learn and take in advice and information. Ill get back to you in 30 minutes about the purge bolt and might try to go to my friends anyway to see if he has the flexible hose clamp pliers like these.

http://cgi.ebay.com/...omotiveQ5fTools

Thats the only way I think I can get that clamp off without removing the radiator.

[sprinter10]

She flows

[BodybyFisher]

I dont want you to take the purge line off the tank, I want you to go over by the throttle body and remove the hose and remove the 15mm bolt that its connected to, and look at the hole in the middle of it. VERY SIMPLE, just remove the bolt and hold it up to a light and see if its clogged, push a pipe clean or something like a drill bit through it to clear it.

THAT NEEDS TO BE DONE NOW, if you have AIR WE MUST ELIMINATE THAT NOW

before you go any further!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[sprinter10]

OK well I couldny get the pliers on it easily to get the hose off to get the wrench on the nut.

I had to go do an emergency repair to my dads fiberglas hood on his truck.

I didn't spend a lot of time on it I can prob even grab it and rotate the clamp to the top to take it off

I thought seeing water come out and fill up a coffe can wouuld show if the hole is closed or not.

[caddypete]

What he is saying to you may not make sense, because it is flowing does not mean it is proper. Once you take that bolt of and look thru it, see the size of the opening it will make alot more sense to you. Believe me I finally did and found mine had at least 80% blockage and it flowed coolant. once cleaned out it made a huge difference. Just listen, do and you will learn alot and save alot of aggravation. He is only trying to help you.

[sprinter10]

I just went out to do that and realized that after I pulled the hose off it was shooting out like crazy without it running. I didn't realize it was oging ot do that and i was doing it in the gravel drivevway with no catch can and not much dexcool to top it back off with and did not feel like draining my entire tank I tried to put the hose back on as quick as I could with the water at over 200 degrees comming out. If I knew it would do that I would have tacken the hose off the tank and ran it down into a catch can. So this is yet another day of not being able to fuffil a simple task of taking the bolt out. if this means anything it was comming out steady and the stream was the same size of the hole without any preashure engine was not running.

[caddypete]

The problem I had was losing all my coolant, though I could not find a leak or coolant anywhere. My car could idle for hours never lose a drop. Then I revved the engine and could see fluid come out the overflow. I believe this was caused by that little passage being partially blocked and causing enough pressure to lift the cap. I was told that was unlikely but I know once I cleared that restriction it didn't happen anymore.I checked that line also for flow which it did and never checked the bolt because I was sure I was looking for a leak. So you learn what they say has releveance to your problem even though it doesn't make sense to you.

[sprinter10]

Ok sounds good I can see something like that happening it wouldn't be the first time I found something I didn't think would make sense to me at first I know what you are saying.

[BodybyFisher]

I took all of the references to ME out of the above posts. I enlarged NOW because it is important VERY important to determine if your purge line is clear, FULLY clear and while pulling the hose off the tank is the FIRST place to check, since you STILL have AIR noises and slight overheating, the bolt with a hole in it is the NEXT stop. WE have solved many a Northstar overheating problem by clearing the bolt with a hole in it.

Listen you are complaining about hearing AIR in the lines, aren't you? AIR in the lines is NOT NORMAL and the purge line if it is clear WILL clear the air

The first time you took the hose off the tank, it was not clear whether you got a steady stream

We need to TOTALLY eliminate the POSSIBLITY that the air purge is even PARTIALLY blocked even partially blocked as caddypete is saying

IF, the purge line/bolt with a hole in it is CLEAR and you still have air getting into the system, its related to something else, maybe you are hearing the AC system making noises at the orifice tube that happens also or you are hearing a partially clogged heater core making noise as the coolant is forced through it, if I recall your heater didnt work good, is that correct?

If you have ANY leaks they MUST be repaired or your temps will run high

[BodybyFisher]

Based on the photo you posted above, it looks like your purge line is flowing good, so its probably something else you are hearing, AC noise at the orifice tube or the heater core clogged, try reverse flushing the heater core they get clogged from the sealing tablets.

I am not sure why you are having a problem with that 'bolt with a hole in it' clamp. You even said you may need to remove the radiator, so I hope we are talking about the same thing

Here is the 'bolt with a hole in it' its at 2 o'clock

Here is a close up, its a spring clamp, a needle nose plier works good on it

[sprinter10]

I had it off I know what it is But as soon as I took the hose off I realized it was going to drain my entire tank and I put i back on as soon as I could. It always flowed good both times I checked it and even the last time with the hose off. Witch way would be backflowing the heater core. There are 2 hoses level to eachother.. Drivers side is intake and other side is the outlet? Do you mean flush it out with a hose? I can do that this weekend after I put my hose inside because it is frozen solid now. Could I blow the heater core out with air after to try to get the air out to not mess with the 50/50 mixture I have and not have well water that can corrode? I know those hoses are very easy to get to without removing anything.

[BodybyFisher]

Here is the cooling system flow chart. from this chart you can see the direction of the flow from the heater pipe across the rear of the engine INTO the heater core. Study the chart carefully. Notice that the pipe that has the "by pass" hose on it is the RETURN from the bottom of the tank, so its the other pipe that leads INTO the heater core. I would remove the hoses from the heater core, after knowing the flow directions and connect hoses to the INPUT and OUTPUT side of the heater and put a garden hose on the OUTPUT side while the water you squirt through is directed into a bucket or toward the ground. Keep flushing the core until the water runs clear and strong. This will greatly improve your heat and stop the water sounds in your dash if that is your problem.

Dont worry about the 50/50 mix the heater core does not hold much and the water will drain when you disconnect the hoses

[sprinter10]

did a preashure test on the system no leaks then started the car ran for 15 minutes creeped up the the 16 lb mark reved and held at 3,000 for a few minutes went up the the 17 mark on the gauge then went back down going back and forth between there for like 40 minutes. took the cap off slowly the water was up to the top of the tank. Told me to start it and as soon as I did that it was bubbling up and outshut it right off. when taking the cap off there was a smell of eghaust.

Head gasket is bad.

No more leaks anywhere

he said to try some sealent saying he has used it before and have seen it work. I know it aint right but for a $50 kit might try it and see what happens. I have the northstar tech guy on this site gonna call me back and tell me bout the miracle in a bottle (3 bottles) and gonna talk me into it. I know the last thing people on here would be for something that simple work and I doubt it will but I think it is worth a try. There are quite a few responses on there site from people.

Theres a ton of stories like these on there site

"I had my doubts about anything helping my North Star. I figured it was a goner for sure. I tried every thing on the market at least once and most of them twice and nothing even came close to helping my Caddy from over heating. It got so bad I couldn't go 3 miles with out needing to stop and add water. The first time I tried your product I never made it around the block before a hose came off and I lost all the water, I didn't tighten up a hose clamp, my bad. So I put the second half of the treatment in and everything seemed OK and then I took it on the freeway and pushed it a little to hard and it overheated, my bad again. So I called you guys up and you gave me the option of a refund or a re treat with no questions asked. I opted to retreat and I did everything you told me to do and low and behold it worked. I drove the car around town for a week or so and then drove it non stop" This guy even has his email adress available on request for people to contact for info.

[BodybyFisher]

did a preashure test on the system no leaks then started the car ran for 15 minutes creeped up the the 16 lb mark reved and held at 3,000 for a few minutes went up the the 17 mark on the gauge then went back down going back and forth between there for like 40 minutes. took the cap off slowly the water was up to the top of the tank. Told me to start it and as soon as I did that it was bubbling up and outshut it right off. when taking the cap off there was a smell of eghaust

Could you clarify that statement? You ran the engine for a total of 55 minutes (15 plus 40) and then SLOWLY took the cap off? Was the engine hot when you took the cap off after 55 minutes of running?

I am surprised that opening the cap when the engine was hot did not spontaineously start boiling

Can you explain the pressure test you did, you zoomed by that. What did you pressurize the system too, and how long did it hold?

The bottom line is, if you smell exhaust in the tank that is not good, but I dont see any test that confirmed the head gasket problem. I cant tell if the bubbling up was spontaineous boiling from hot coolant without pressure or if that was from the head gasket

[BodybyFisher]

As far as sealer goes, that is BULLSHIT, plain and simple!!!!

Spend your money as you please but it WONT work, period.

The problem is that the bolts pull, and NOTHING will seal that. If the headgasket was breeched between the cylinder and a water jacket, a 'glass' sealer 'might' work for a bit, but that is NOT what is going on here, the head movew up and away from the block. There is MOVEMENT that sealer can NOT deal with,

This is an INSULTING comment that you make:

I know the last thing people on here would be for something that simple work and I doubt it will but I think it is worth a try

Something simple? Listen there is a right and a wrong way to do something, and if you want a dependable car, you do it right!

Listen go ahead spend the money and report back your results, but dont forget to take it up a few hills

[BodybyFisher]

And by the way, YOU ARE WELCOME, for my posting of the Northstar Cooling system diagram

[sprinter10]

Thank you for posting that cooling system diagram. I might get that blown up and printed/laminated to have in the garage when Im working on the car looks like it would be a good reference for a new guy like me without having my laptop with me in the garage.

It was an adapster hooked to the coolant preashure tester with a pump and gauge on it broken down into different preashure variables

It held for over 20 minutes before the car was running at 11psi no leaks.

The engine temp was only at half way when we shut the car off at that time and fans cycled a few times the car was running for a total of 50 minutes I beleive iw what the timer in the car says.

The guy just called me saying he fixed over 17,000 of these over the last few years and most not even being able to make it around the block without it leaking. I have one of the smallest cases he has seen yet of it. It is a money back if it doesn't work garentee or a nother kit to try again. This guy knew quiet a bit about these engines explaining why things are the way they are and why you must run the original thermostate because of what it does and its different stages He did not talk in some sort of micacle saying how it works he really explains himself in every way he could. I will be taking the chance of seeing if it will work or not and if it doesn't ask for my money back. Still worth the try to save time and money even if its just a temporary fix for a little bit to get it through till the summer when I have more money.

[Cadillac Jim]

DO NOT USE THE SEALANT. It's very difficult to get out of the block. A Timesert job and new head gaskets is basically a top end job that leaves the pistons, rods, crank, and oil pan alone. You have to hot-boil a block to get hard sealant out of it, which requires a full strip-down and rebuild from dry scattered parts.

[Ranger]

If all you are looking for is a band aid to buy you some time, you might get that, but it will not last.

[sprinter10]

how much is a quality do iy yourself timesert/head gasket job gonna cost?

with a starter replacement,main seal,oil pan seal?

someone said the starters suck to change on these and to do it when the engine is out.

It was funny that my friend that owns the shop that did the preashure test on the engine today was working on a 1998 Cadillac STS so he had 2 of the same cars just different years at the same time in his garage. That one had a large amount of front end damage due to texting while driving. The alunimum front umper was kinked ack through everything.