BodybyFisher

Lifetime Supporter
  • Content Count

    17,836
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    99

Everything posted by BodybyFisher

  1. Hi Jim, thanks, I hope all is well. I have been reluctant to opine on specifics as this is an 06 DTS, and my 96 manual would most likely confuse the matter. Case in point neither the 96 or 97 have a TCM, so I needed to research it on Alldata at the library. I have learned to limit my responses on years I am unfamiliar with, to the point of going to the library three times searching Alldata to educate myself and to be sure information I provide is relevant or at least correct on this thread (thanks Logan 😉). There is no substitution for actual hands on experience though, of which I have none on the 06. This level of work requires a service manual
  2. Maybe someone will chime in and help. Its in the factory service manusl for sure. Not in Chiltons?
  3. You asked that question already and I responded above. Its the only method I used, it has worked repeatedly for many here. Are there other methods, I suppose. Think one up, and post how you did it, it will be interesting to watch a new method. Good Luck
  4. These are long threaded rods, you can see them in my photos and Logans photos screwed into the location where the 6 carriage bolts are. They are called THREADED RODS, I gave you a link to where to buy threaded rod above, it is called MSC DIRECT. I bought mine there. I said YOU need to determine whether you need 12MM or 14MM, no one can tell you what you need Logan above said he used 6, on in each carriage bolt hole I used 4, and only used 1 on each corner of the carriage Here is a link to a 14mm-2.0 oiled steel threaded rod in a 1 meter lengths (if that is what you need). 1 meter is about 39 inches long, and will allow you to get two 19.5 inch pieces, probably too long working on the ground, but I will give you the length I used to drop the carriage on a dolly, my guess is 16 inches long. Be sure to order bolts and washers at the same time. I would call them on the phone. You screw on the nut, cut the rod to the desired length and unscrew the nut, and the threads are restored. https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/04355046
  5. Not unless you got a better idea. Four bottle jacks, a lift where you could drop the carriage on a table, take the hood off and wrap a chain fall over a beam, floor jacks...but the bolt method isnt dangerous, it's easy, allows control, doesnt risk you pulling the car off the jack stands. You may need to free up the electrical conduit that runs along the crossover. This is potentially a highly complicated job. A few years ago I dropped the entire engine/tranny carriage on a dolly with wheels that I built (see dolly in photo below) and pulled it out from under the car, replaced the engine, and rolled it back under and lifted it back into position with the threaded rod method described above, it works.
  6. How are you extracting the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)?
  7. I might add that @Logan developed this method of lowering the carriage. ^^^^ After you decide what size you need, you will need to order threaded rods. I am quite sure I ordered mine from MSC Direct. Ill give you the length of each all thread tomorrow https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Clamping-Workholding-Positioning/Threaded-Rods?navid=4287864691+4294957838&searchterm=all+thread
  8. Do you know how to extract all DTC codes?, including suspension, body, not just P or powertrain codes. You do know you can access them from the dash correct?
  9. Are you getting strut codes or messages on your dash? Do you hear a rolling noise that could indicate a hub bearing problem? Have you checked ball joints? Loose or worn parts cause amplified impact to be transferred. Bounce each corner of the vehicle the movement should be dampened and it should not bounce up and down. That would indicate a strut that is failing to dampen impact. Check control arm bushings
  10. You need to determine what size your carriage bolts are, Logan's were 14mm and mine were 12mm. Remove a carriage bolt where they are doubled up and take it to lowes and home depot or whereever and match them up for size.
  11. Look at my photos above where you see the all threads and jack stands. You support the engine/tranny carriage and remove the bolt and replace the bolts with all threads on each corner (4) with all threads and slowly let the carriage down. The left side is let down more than the right side (from the perspective of the driver). The all thread length needs to be 14 to 18 inches, Ill measure mine later
  12. You can't do anything until you get the proper size and length all threads, nuts and an assortment of washers. Review my ISS thread and see if the size is mentioned. You need jack stands on a solid surface A come-a-long or ratcheting tie-down to pull the muffler system back Disconnect the steering shaft, one bolt about a foot from the firewall, tie the steering wheel straight ahead. It is important not to bend any suspension components, and to disconnect as needed. Personally I would disconnect both lower control arms and pull the axles. It is very difficult to give specific instructions, I sort of developed it as I went along. It is important to make sure no components are strained, AC pipes, cooler lines, heater pipes, wire harnesses, etc When I did mine, I had the crossover that houses the water pump off. Haynes is general information at best and will not be helpful for in-depth work. This is no easy job, the problem is, if you find a problem, just fixing it and putting it back together is risky, because debris, can be distributed around the tranny. Mechanical failures usually require a rebuild. You might consider buying a known good tranny from a scrap yard and putting it in.
  13. There is no need to use RTV anywhere. Please consider buying or borrowing a service manual
  14. Here is my ISS speed sensor thread, from when I tilted my carriage to get into the side pan. My screen name back then was Scotty. There are other side pan threads ill link to.
  15. Are there any check engine lights? So from what you typed, it seems the transmission is not staying in overdrive?
  16. Here are some photos of what it looks like underneath the side pan.
  17. I actually don't mean those filters, I mean the strainers that are little tiny wire cones usually that are after things like the pressure solenoid motor. I will look around, for strainers or pathways that can starve the pump and cause it to cavitate. This photo was from when I got into my side pan to change my Input Speed Sensor (ISS), you see the all threads, into the carriage bolt holes, by backing down the nuts (while making sure you aren't backing out the all thread, you can slowly and in control drop the carriage. Notice that the car is held up by good jack stands. BE CAREFUL and SAFE. I disconnected the exhaust system before the CAT also.
  18. Then as you saw varying with rpm is related to the pump system. Keep in mind that the pump might be good, but, filters are clogged eith debris leading to the pump starving it You can disconnect the axles and left strut and drop and tilt the carriage to the left, disconnect the steering shaft (one bolt) so as not to bend it Use 4 long 'all threads' in the 4 carriage bolt holes and use washers and nuts to drop it down, I think they are M11 or M12, but I forget., check. The all threads should be about 12 to 18 inches long.
  19. I think this confirms you are skipping. When you disconnect the battery, these adaptive pressures return to zero. So the question is, did these set on the lift or while you were trying to drive the car. Regardless, you are slipping, though. Can you describe the whine, did it vary with RPM?
  20. You got those pressures on a lift correct? Was the battery ever disconnected before you obtained those pressures?, I am trying to determine if these pressures were 'set' from driving the car or from when you had it on the lift. As you can imagine if these adaptive pressures came from when the car was on the lift, how trying to drive the car on the road would induce slip, those pressures would have pinned at 127 psi Did you read the description of WHINE above?, the whine can determine pump issues, based on how it whines. There is a filter after the pressure solenoid that you need to inspect.
  21. Ok I found something, these adaptive pressures should be zero or close to it when the tranny is new. These are adaptive pressures used to offset slip, if slip or worn part is detected, the pressure is increased to stop the slip.
  22. I know, I am concerned about the 0 psi pressure above and whether that means anything
  23. I didnt find any pressure info in this manual, Ill check the 96 service manual, I know its not a 06 manual but I want to see if I can identify the pressures you posted above