BodybyFisher

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Everything posted by BodybyFisher

  1. The ABS system trouble codes are checked differently on this model, here is a photo from the manual. Ill do some reading later. As can be seen here the ABS codes are retained even if battery is disconnected.
  2. That is a good point, that crossed my mind also. Was the parking brake shoes at the rear or did the parking brake tighten the caliper?
  3. What you see here is something called brain storming. Members thinking about your problem and giving a possible cause. A line of thinking. We tend not duel or shut down others thoughts regardless of how experienced we are or how ludicrous someone's suggestion is given the fact that someone in some part of the planet took the time to contemplate and respond to a problem. We feed off each others ideas and questions. In addition we have NO idea how experienced or inexperienced you are or what you have done to date. We rely upon you to tell us ALL details. Our questions PROBE for details and info from you. Keep in mind we have not driven the car, can't feel it nor can we hear it. At no point did you say you checked codes, so you left us in the dark and we wasted time. We can only respond to your description of the problem, that you left information out, about checking codes, driving it once and compared it to a nissan and made assumptions was left out. You said, the car starts up and runs ok in your first post. You now say, the battery was dead, and you checked codes.... when did you check codes immediately after jumping it?, because the system needs to go through a drive cycle of about 50 miles to run all tests, maybe less for some tests. Now don't get me wrong, I am not being testy or a jerk, this is a give and take. I had my 91 Seville for 10 years and had the sprag go, did all work and became proficient with OBD1 and used it for real time data. Toward the end the sprag did some weird things at speed. I have been here since 1995, sent 4.9 parts and 4.9 engines to europe. Have 20,000 posts here many on 4.9 platforms between my bbf and scotty names. And I can tell I have never heard of a problem like yours and I definately would remember. We are asking probing questions and trying to dive into your problem, try not shooting down avenues of thought, that car is 30 years old and all kinds of stuff could happen especially if it sat for a long time. Checking codes is only good after a drive cycle of 50 miles How long did the car sit? You jumped a totally dead battery? <<< answer that. You may not have had sufficient current to drive the coil, my 91 died with a bad battery as soon as I hit the accelerator You MAY have been feeling misfiring due to a bad battery with insufficient current to drive the coil. But we know nothing about the battery or if the car was jumped and assessed with a weak battery, connections or how far it was driven. Restate exactly what you did from the time you saw the car based on issues I brought up. I need to look at my 91 factory service manual. This car will NOT run right with a bad battery that wasnt fully charged or with a dead cell.
  4. The codes need to be checked. I need to pull my 91 manual. This could be the ABS engaging, also. I do not believe that all the codes can be pulled though the dash... (its been a long time), will do some research. You need ABS codes also Sonjaab raises a good point, the converter clutch could be engaging and disengaging also Check codes asap, if you don't know how, let us know
  5. You need to determine if this is mechanical or ignition related. Do you know how to check the codes?, you have an on board OBD1 diagnostic system that you can retrieve the trouble codes from. Does your check engine light flash when this happens?
  6. I have experienced this. While idling in Park, suddenly you hear a noise and the car moves a slight bit. I had a 91 Seville, very similar to yours. I do believe that it is caused by the SPRAG. My sprag finally failed and I had the tranny rebuilt. Is that what you experience? Does it happen iding in park? Have a good tranny guy feel it @4.9FWDfan
  7. Let us know how it turns out. Getting away from the synthetic and with the cooler weather upon us, you should be ok
  8. Take a 3/4 inch hose and use it as a listening device. Listen to the alternator. Is the battery retaining its charge? See this thread https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/alternator-works-great-but-hums-when-ignition-is-off.853425/&share_tid=853425&share_fid=11843&share_type=t
  9. In 2000 roller cams were used and synthetic was used from the factory. I wouldn't jump to 15w40 on a 2000. You might change the pressure switch and clean and inspect the connector and see what you get. @John W Galt
  10. Hmm, i wonder if disconnecting the phone caused this?, you removed the phone from the console right?
  11. I posted a link to the 4.1 solely due to the mention of the vacuum pump, if for nothing else for information purposes and The Guru's post.
  12. Hi @Göran W. Not trying to be insulting by asking left right perspective. I knew nothing on the right that could cause a noise like that, so I wanted to be sure we were on the same page. That said, I had a 91 4.9 so I dont have direct experience with the 4.1/4.5. Here is a fun fact, in the following link is a post by "The Guru" from 2005 on vacuum pumps, his screen name is chevelle. See this discussion for more: https://www.cadillacforums.com/threads/ht4100-vacuum-pump.55454/
  13. The right side of the engine bay from the perspective of being seated in the car? @Göran W
  14. @rockfangd watch this video on voltage drop, this is where I would start.
  15. On waking this morning I remembered how to adjust the 2 idle mixture screws in further detail. Start with the 2 screws one turn out off the stop. Idle the engine to operating temp. With a tachometer attached, turn each screw in till the RPM begins to drop, then turn it out till you hit the highest idle RPM. Alternate adjusting each screw a couple of times as they impact each other's speed. This is a photo of the accelerator pump. The red area is the area that wears out. Translation När jag vaknade i morse kom jag ihåg hur jag skulle justera de två tomgångsskruvarna i detalj. Börja med de två skruvarna, en vrid ut från stoppet. Tomgång på motorn till driftstemperatur. Med en varvtal monterad, vrid varje skruv in tills varvtalet börjar sjunka, och vrid sedan ut det tills du når högsta tomgångsvarvtalet. Alternativt justera varje skruv ett par gånger när de påverkar varandras hastighet. Detta är ett foto av gaspumpen. Det röda området är det område som sliter ut.
  16. Congratulations Joe and welcome back. Post some photos. @Bruce Nunnally
  17. It needs to be determined whether the message is a false message or a legitimate low pressure condition. Which engine is this? When you started it today, did it still have the low oil pressure message? Explain what you mean by, it doesn't start right up, did it start? If it still has the message, I would have it towed to a shop in order to determine if this is a legitimate message or a false message due to a bad oil pressure sensor/switch. If it has the oil pressure message current do not drive the car, have it towed, to avoid engine damage in case it really is low oil pressure. @Sease
  18. TRANSLATION I have a 1965 Cadillac coupe deville, it has a carter carburetor with something called Air invection Reactor, There are 3 screws that can be adjusted at the front of the carburetor, 2 smaller and 1 larger in the middle but I can not find any instructions for what it really is you adjust .... on a regular carburetor there are only 2 screws and then you set the fuel / Air quantity for each side if I have taken right?, but what does it do screw that is a little bigger in the middle ?? Then I wonder one more thing, the adjusting screw for the idle ?? Where the hell is it sitting ,? as it is now I can screw a little on the gas damper upside down, but it does not feel like it is the one to pill, it seems a little too inaccurate for that purpose. attaches a picture of what carburetor I have. Grateful for all the feedback I can get ....., the problem is that it is difficult to start, then before it is warm it wants to die only when you put in a gear, furthermore the nerve is warm so I feel that it is a little delay when you gas off, like it hesitates a bit, and then at full throttle it can sometimes jerk and chop a little, kind of when you lie in 80 and gas on at one turn, you let go then it stops *************************************** This is a Carter AFB If you wish to leave the adjust as the factory suggested with the idle air screw: for MOST applications, the beginning settings would be 1 turn on the idle mixture screws (side screws) and 1 and 1/2 turns on the idle air screw (center screw). Gently turn screws in till they seat, then out as stated above. If you are bogging or hesitating it is the result of a bad accelerator pump plunger. It is very common for them to go bad, some have a leather plunger and some have a rubber plunger. Replace it and it will stop the hesitation I did it many times as a kid on my parent's 64 and 65. Be sure to order the correct accelerator pump. Your carburetor should have a model number on it. This chart may help you identify your unit: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Kcadillac2.htm I circled the location of the accelerator pump. the carburetor cover must come off and lifted gently. The float will be attached. It can be replaced with the carb on the engine. Be careful not to drop any screws into the throat! If you need help or you can't get parts you can contact Rusty at these links, by email or phone. Tell him Mike from caddyinfo said Hi. This site has some good information on the AFB http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/AFBtuningtips.htm Translation Detta är en Carter AFB Om du vill lämna justeringen som fabriken föreslog med tomluftsskruven: för DE MESTA applikationerna skulle startinställningarna vara 1 varv på tomgångsskruvarna (sidoskruvar) och 1 och 1/2 varv på tomluftsskruven ( centrumskruv). Vrid försiktigt skruvarna tills de sitter, sedan ut enligt ovan. Om du bugar eller tvekar är det resultatet av en dålig gaspumpskolv. Det är mycket vanligt att de går illa, vissa har en läderkolv och andra har en gummikolv. Byt ut det och det kommer att stoppa tvekan jag gjorde det många gånger som barn på min förälders 64 och 65. Var noga med att beställa rätt gaspump. Din förgasare bör ha ett modellnummer på sig. Detta diagram kan hjälpa dig att identifiera din enhet: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Kcadillac2.htm Jag cirklade platsen för gaspumpen. förgasarkåpan måste lossna och lyftas försiktigt. Float kommer att fästas. Det kan ersättas med kolhydrat på motorn. Var försiktig så att inga skruvar släpps i halsen! Om du behöver hjälp eller om du inte kan få delar kan du kontakta Rusty via dessa länkar, via e-post eller telefon. Berätta för honom Mike från caddyinfo sa hej. Den här webbplatsen har bra information om AFB. http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/AFBtuningtips.htm @redone
  19. How to check codes on the 91: 1) Turn ignition ON. 2) Simultaneously press and hold the A/C control panel ‘OFF’ and ‘Warmer’ buttons 3) When all segments of the display illuminate: Release the A/C control panel ‘OFF’ and ‘Warmer’ buttons 4) Trouble codes will be displayed in the driver information center 5) Trouble codes will be displayed in ascending order, have a pencil and write down all codes or make a video with your cell phone and write them down later. All ECM codes start with the letter ‘E’. Trouble codes for all systems will be displayed. Include whether the code is current or history All current trouble codes end with the letter ‘C’. All history trouble codes end with the letter ‘H’. If no ECM trouble codes are stored, ‘NO ECM CODE’ will be displayed. When all trouble codes have been displayed, Press the ‘RESET’ button Turn the ignition OFF. Post your codes here and we will help. The codes will direct us to problems. You can look up the ECM codes here: http://www.caddyinfo.com/stscodes.html @GoRicky
  20. If you have the manual, look up how to check the codes and post them here. Ill do some digging to see if I can find the procedure. We should be able to help you, so that you can go to a mechanic knowing what the problem is. Confirm that both are 91's please @GoRicky
  21. Thanks John, I have been thinking of you lately, hope all is good. Ill call soon. @OldCadTech
  22. It sounds like once the engine is up to operating temp and goes into closed loop the problems begin. This is TBI or throttle body injection correct? I just worked on an 89 chevy 5.7 with TBI and converted it to a Holley carburetor for the owner. But everyone I spoke to said the TBI is a good system. TBI is the first generation of computer controlled ignition. You need to find a mechanic who either understands TBI or who will invest the time to learn it. Look for old timers, I don't think it will be easy to find a mechanic who understands the system even at the dealer, it is 31 years later. It is terrific that you have the service manuals. We have a member that may be helpful I will page him he may be of some help @OldCadTech @GoRicky
  23. These types of products do not typically work on the Northstar as it is the head bolt that has pulled up and out so there is movement. It is not due to a gap in the head gasket
  24. Check for diagnostic codes that might be set and post them here. You will need a code reader capable of CAN that can read an 08. Check fuel pressure Check for spark, get a tester at a local parts supply. @Jess
  25. It would be terrific if we could see your misfire counts at idle, at 2,000 rpm and at highway speeds. You have done a lot of work. What oil do you use? I am off on a different direction with your problem but want you to eliminate all causes first. Have you checked fuel pressure? Is this the 2004?