Cadillac Jim

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Everything posted by Cadillac Jim

  1. If you have OnStar, push the black button and ask the lady to read you the OBD codes and write them down and post them here. You can ask her to email them to you, which might be simpler and avoid an error in writing them down. If you don't have OnStar, find and Autozone near you and ask them to read your OBD codes for you. Look at the sticker on the underside of your spare tire compartment cover and write down the RPO codes related to your radio. I would take a cell phone photo of that sticker, which has all your RPO codes, paint numbers, etc., and keep that photo on my computer for reference. The radio codes for the 2007 CTS are (this list may not be totally complete because I just now picked it out of the FSM): UAV Infotainment System 005.1 U2J Digital Audio System S-Band, Not Installed U2K Digital Audio System S-Band U2R Infotainment System 001 U2S Infotainment System 002 U2X Infotainment System 007 U2Y Infotainment System 008 U57 Speaker System 8, Dual F/D Pillar, Dual FRT DR MTD, Dual RR DR MTD, Subwoof PKG Shelf, I/P CTR, Amplif, Bose U66 Speaker System 7, Custom We will need that information to get the right schematics in the factory shop manual (FSM). If you have a Volt/Ohm meter, you can check for power at the radio and a good ground. Power to the radio is through the RD/WH wire, ground is through the BK/WH wire. If you have premium audo (Bose, probably) you have the 30 Amp AMP fuse with power directly to the power amp on the RD/BK wire. If there is more than a small fraction of an Ohm resistance from the BK/WH wire to chassis, check ground G402, which is In the rear compartment, to the rear of the left rear shock tower, below audio AMP.
  2. There are two fuses in the rear fuse block. After you try rockfangd's solution, which will restart any modules that have locked up, you can look for a 10 Amp AUDIO fuse and a 30 Amp AMP fuse. Since the whole radio went black, the 10 Amp fuse is the first one I would look at.
  3. Two things occur to me: the car's network connector (the PPL wire), and the three power connections: always on (RED), on in start and run (PNK), and ground (BLK). There are the speaker connections, too. There is also the dimmed power connector (I forget the color) and the speaker connections. I would start by making sure that the radio has a good ground, then the two hot connections. If the factory radio has been flaky, I would check for cracked fuses. If you have a voltmeter, check for A/C voltage across the speaker connections at the radio. If there is a current real-world problem with a 1996 Deville, someone with a 1996 FSM can step up, or I can locate my 1997 FSM and scan the radio schematics to identify all the wires and their colors. You may need to know the factory option for the stock radio. The RPO numbers are on a sticker under the spare tire cover. If that is missing, an internet search on your VIN may turn up such a list for your car. The radio options are of the format U1x, where x is another letter or number, or, for premium radios, Unx, where n is another number besides 1.
  4. From the FSM schematic, the rear left, or driver's side, tail/stop/turn lamp circuit is identical to that of the right side. EXCEPT for the ground, a BK wire going to G402 (BK wire tied to body behind the back seat, high, near the door frame), the trailer connector (check it for pinched wires or shorts), and its own connector on the BCM (check for pushed-in terminals in the connector). There are three fuses in the underhood fuse block that provide power to the BCM, BCM 4, 5 and 6, all 10 Amp. One of them may be for the left rear. Since the rear lights have a trailer connector, I'm sure that each side has its own fuse, probably BCM 4 and BCM 5. Does the dashboard flasher arrow for left turns work? If it turns on at all, the problem is probably in the connector or the ground. You have already checked the light itself. EDIT: Usually I ask people to check their OBD codes first, but on your car and mine you can't do that yourself from the driver's seat. You can ask the OnStar operator to ready you the codes (and email them to you!) or you can use a code reader. This problem seems pretty straightforward if you have the schematics, which I do, on a GM SI DVD. But this goes on for much at all, and we can't get 12 Volts to at least one of the YE wires to the left rear tail/stop/turn signal lights, the fuses are good, and the trailer connector isn't shorted, we will want the OBD codes. You can check the ground by putting a voltmeter on the BK wire on the left stop/tail/turn light; if there is 12 Volts on either or both of the YE wires but the BK ground line has zero volts when the dashboard flasher arrow is on or blinking, then the logic in the taillight assembly may be bad. Autozone and others offer to read your OBD codes free.
  5. The Allante intake/fuel injection for the 4.5 gave it 200 hp, and the Allante kept that engine when the 4.9 came out. That's known to give a performance boost with minimal or no problems while an engine switch is... an engine switch. Engine cooling and lubrication such as the oil-cooled piston skirts may not be sufficient for 150 hp more than what the engine was designed for. It really takes a clean sheet of paper to do a supercharged engine that has sufficient reliability to actually drive normally on the streets and highway. The STS-V, for model years 2005-2009 model years, used a 4.4 liter supercharged Northstar that is rated at 465 hp. A full swap of engine/transmission/ECM may or may not be feasible. EDIT: I don't have a parts manual that has both the regular 4.5 l and the Allante special 4.5 l, but I would consult one to make sure that they have the same cam timing and lift, and the same valve sizes. If not, you can decide whether to update the cam and heads to match the Allante intake/fuel injection.
  6. The first thing I would do is run the OBD codes to see what the car's computers think. See the link in my signature block for a Caddyinfo page on reading your OBD codes. If the car passes emissions testing, that means that it has no current emissions codes, not that there are no problems. Nearly always, if the Check Engine light is off, the car will pass emissions testing as it is done lately. There may be History codes or intermittent problems, or there may be something that is not detected by the car's OBD system. But often a check of History OBD codes and codes other than emissions codes will tell you something important, occasionally about a problem that you weren't aware of. If there are not OBD codes that reflect on your problem, I would check the plug wires, the coils, the crank sensors, MAP sensor, and also for clogging in the catalytic converter. If you are mechanically inclined, you might check the plugs for odd or non-uniform appearance, but be aware that anti-seize compound and silicone plug boot compound must be used when replacing the plugs, and proper torque must be used. A real code reader that provides misfire counts by cylinder can be helpful in identifying plug, ignition wire, or coil problems. Each coil fires two cylinders, and problems on both for a particular coil point to the coil as opposed to the plugs or wires. Moving wires from coil to coil can verify that a coil is bad - or good, but the wires or plugs are bad.
  7. Does the shift lever drive the shift valve in the proper position as shown in the shift indicator? The two missing pictures labeled Object Number 97542/97544 are below: Checking the other parts requires removal and disassembly of the transmission. If the external adjustments, fresh Dexron VI, etc. don't work for you then I would suggest that you commit to a transmission exchange or overhaul. If you do internal automatic transmission work yourself, perhaps someone else can step up here. I do suggest that you be prepared for clean, well lighted indoor workspace with a complete factory overhaul manual for the 4T80E before you start.
  8. Is this with the front wheels off the ground and engine at idle? When the wheels are on the ground and you give it a bit of throttle in Reverse, does the car move forward? Does the car surge against the Park pawl when you give it a bit of throttle in Park? This is the FSM entry for "Forward motion in N: Checks Causes DEFINITION: Forward Motion in Neutral Forward Clutch Housing Feed hole plugged, inspect tower Forward Clutch Piston Jammed Forward Clutch Plates Seized or jammed Forward Clutch Springs Jammed Forward/Coast Clutch Support Hub Holes plugged Manual Valve Mispositioned or stuck Shift Linkage • Mispositioned • Disconnected The only do-it-in-the-driveway DIY check that is listed is to check the shift linkage. The FSM drawing of the cable attachment to the transmission: 1 - where the cable attaches to the transmission. This may be disconnected in your case. 2 - cable holder, with adjustment. The FSM adjustment process follows. Range Selector Lever Cable Adjustment Notice: Adjust the shift control cable only while the transaxle and the gear selector are in NEUTRAL. Failure to do so may cause mis-adjustment. Set the parking brake and chock the wheels. Remove the shift cable terminal from the transmission manual shaft lever pin. Pry on the shift cable terminal at the manual shaft lever pin with an appropriate tool. Prying or pulling up on any other part of the shift cable may result in damage to the shift cable . Fully lift the adjuster lock button. Ensure that the adjuster is free to move. Place the transmission manual shaft lever in (N) Neutral. In order to find (N) Neutral, rotate the lever fully counterclockwise to (P) Park, and then clockwise 2 clicks into (N) Neutral. Place the gear shifter inside the car to the (N) Neutral position. Use the transmission shift indicator on the console to find (N) Neutral. From under the hood, grasp the shift cable terminal and pull it toward the pin on the manual shaft lever. The shift cable adjuster spring should compress as the terminal is moved toward the pin. Attach the pin to the lever by pushing down carefully until it snaps. Do not pull the terminal beyond the pin and then push back. This action could move the shifter out of (N) Neutral. Press the adjuster lock button down flush with the adjuster body. Shift to (P) Park and release the parking brake while applying the service brake. Start the engine and assure all of the indicated gear positions match the vehicle response.
  9. Do you have any OBD codes? Run the codes and post them here.
  10. You can start by removing the key from the keychain and use the key without a lot of weight hanging off of it. Or, the key resistor may be dirty or worn. If so, you can solve the problem by cleaning the resistor contacts or, at worst, with a new key. Sometimes this problem is caused by the contacts for the resistor wearing out within the steering wheel mechanism. That's a significant repair problem. I would try a new key first. There is a link to a spreadsheet with OBD codes and lots of other information about the 1997 model year Cadillacs.
  11. Update on December 9, 2018 - a new CarFAX shows that the car still is in my name, over five years after being sold. NEVER let someone leave with a signed-over title. Get their signature and information on the title and put it in for re-registering yourself. This is why car dealers do all the paperwork and never let the buyer have the title to file.
  12. I didn't go out and look on my own car, but I believe that the diagram that identifies all the fuses and relays is a paper sticker on the bottom side of the cover over the fuse/relay block. If you have the cover and the big paper sticker isn't there, try to get one locally. Failing that, I'll upload a graphic from the FSM.
  13. I'm assuming that you have the 3.6L V6. Looking at the FSM schematic, the engine pump relay has power to the contacts through a 10 Amp fuse labeled ENG PUMP in the same underhood fuse block as the relay. There is a 16 Amp EMIS 2 fuse that provides power to the engine pump coil. The ENG PUMP relay is turned on by the PWR TRN relay in the same fuse block. You should check the exposed points on the two fuses to make sure that there is voltage to the relay points and the relay coil. The ENG PUMP relay is a normally open, single-pole, single-throw "space saver" relay, probably AC/Delco part number 19116059 (listed for the horn relay; I couldn't find a listing for the engine pump relay), available from Rock Auto for $7.10. These are all over the car and I would keep a box of them in the toolbox if you plan to keep the car for a few more years. There are five relays in a row on the underhood fuse block on the short edge, the one that ends in a 45 degree angle. They are, from the 90 degree corner to the 45 degree corner: Horn relay WSW PUMP AC CMPRSR CLUTCH ENG PUMP RT DRL (HID) It looks like there are five more of these relays elsewhere on the underhood fuse block, four of them in an L-shaped group on the other side of the fuse block from the five in a row. They are: LO BEAM (W/O HID) LT DRL (HID) [nearest the long edge away from the five in a row) FOG LAMP [next to the LO BEAM/LT DRL relay] SPARE [center of a row of three] IGN 1 [in the row of three, farthest from the LO BEAM/LT DRL relay] You should be able to use the SPARE relay to check the ENG PUMP relay. There should be a label that tells you what all the relays and fuses are. If not, try to get one from the dealer. Failing that, come back here and i'll upload an illustration from the FSM.
  14. Note that I haven't had that car for over five years now. I've put the manuals away, but will get them if needed here. I have GM shop manuals for 2002-2012 model years on DVD, so if you decide to look at a 4T80E from the 2004 model year or later to get the electronically controlled converter clutch, I'll be able to look at the connectors to get a good idea whether it is compatible with the stock 1996 PCM, see if the PCM does anything when the P0730 is set. I see from my summaries that it is a type C, which means that it turns on the MIL. If you do change the final drive ratio, you will want to store it in the PCM with a Tech II to get the speedometer calibration right, and that should turn off the P0730. I don't know if there is another number in the PCM that you can change when the tire rolling diameter changes, but I would expect that there is.
  15. A really slick Seville. My last upgrade was new center caps with the raised gold wreath and painted coat-of-arms on the logo. CardioDoc on Wheels has them. The dealer tried to sell me those when I bought the car but they were $125 each, $500 for the four, so I waited to do that for a mid-life upgrade.
  16. If all you want is 155 mph, I think all you need is the 3.48 final drive ratio and a tune-up that gives you factory-new ignition and fuel injector performance. I'm assuming that the P0730 doesn't do anything other than display the code. Check the compression and see if it is in spec. Except for the head leakage, the compression should check OK if you plan to push the performance envelope. If not, you need to look at valves or stuck rings. When my car was a few months old, the dealer reprogrammed my PCM for performance. The car is a 1997 ETC, which probably has the same PCM as your car. No matter what they tell you, you can program the stock PCM within some limits, and anyone with a Tech II and the proper training should be able to do it. My personal opinion is that every Northstar is safe from head gasket failure with regular coolant changes. I know of only one that was driven regularly, was well maintained, and had a head gasket failure in under 100,000 miles, was a young fellow in Boston with another 1997 ETC, and his happened at about 80,000 miles, I believe. Since I didn't maintain or tear down his engine, I can't comment on what happened. He was ripped because one limit on the drivetrain warranty for 1997 was 60,000 miles. Another personal opinion that others here may not share is that the Timeserts are a perfectly good repair. One advantage is that with a Timesert repair and new GM head bolts you get the clamping force versus engine temperature that GM designed for this engine. Just don't cut corners, vet the block for sound bolt holes and don't be afraid to get another block if there is any doubt, and take your time in both the drilling and tapping operations.
  17. Whoops, I forgot about the Z-rated-tires requirement for no speed limiting. The speed limiting is by retarding the spark and cutting the spark and possibly the gas on the same cylinder(s) intermittently to keep the power down, I believe. Cutting the gas alone would be hard on the engine and could result in a holed piston. Going much over redline won't work well. The valves will start to float pretty close to the top of redline and the torque will drop off precipitously. 150 mph is pretty much all there is with the 3.71 gears. Shimming the valve springs may be an option for a bit more redline; check with your engine tuner. I'm not aware of any torque converter lockup issues at top speed. If you use a 4T80E from the 2004 model year or later, the torque converter lockup changed to an electronically controlled converter clutch that year, eliminating all RPM loss once lockup is established. If you do go to the Aurora final drive ratio of 3.48, the speed at redline increases to 160 mph. Using the SLS/ESC final drive ratio of 3.11, the speed at redline is 180 mph, meaning that you will be drag limited. If you are serious about top speed, I would seriously consider a later 4T80E and the 3.48 final drive ratio from an Aurora transmission. Check with your performance chip people about disabling P0730 or programming it for your new final drive ratio; it should be a no-brainer with their performance changes because it's just one number to change, and a number that's normally part of the factor/dealer programming of the 4T80E. That same number in the PCM is probably used in speedometer calibration. I believe that GM made a lot more gear ratios for the 4T80E because the RPO range FV0-FV9 includes final drive ratios 3.11 and 3.71, but cover final drive ratios from 2.86 to 4.12. If you include the FQ2-FQ9 range of RPO codes that includes FQ2 for 3.48, the Aurora standard final drive ratio, the range of final drive ratios goes to 4.53. There are a handfull of other transaxle ratios listed here: https://www.crawlpedia.com/rpo_axle_codes.htm but those include other transmissions besides the 4T80E. Then, there is use of tires with a larger rolling diameter. The standard tires for the 1990's E/K platform is 26.6 inches, which is pretty big already. A clean-sheet-of-paper look at things may have you going to different wheels and tires that have a smaller rolling diameter, which would force you to look at changing the final drive ratio.
  18. The STS and ETC don't have a speed limiter. The engine redlines at 150 mph. The final drive ratio could be changed from the STS/ETC "performance" 3.71 ratio to the SLS/ESC 3.11 ratio, or the 3.43 ratio used in the Aurora, but that will trigger P0730 "Incorrect gear ratio" with your stock PCM. This might or might not be something that you could fix with the reprogrammed PCM; if you are getting the chip from Northstar Performance, ask them about that, and also about changing the final drive ratio when they rebuild your 4T80E. Tire-chirping hard shifts as a regular thing are a bit much for daily drivers. In other cars, I've heard of such changes causing problems in the driveline over time, such as gears or bearings in the differential giving up and such. You can get exactly the same effect by pulling the shifter down in to 1 for a manual shift to 2 or just to 2 and let the transmission give you the performance shift at redline. I wouldn't ask for a tire-burning shift if was going to drive the car every day. They should have a performance shift programming scheme for people that drive the car every day that matches up well with the Stage 3 chip, or even is part of the Stage 3 chip. I personally like high drive ratios. You give up snap off the line for more legs in the lower gears, lower cruise RPM, and possibly higher top speed. You may get better gas mileage and, depending on the terrain that you drive in and such, longer gears can be easier on the engine. Performance as measured in the quarter mile may actually improve, or if you have a big flat spot off the line, times will increase - but I don't think that you will have any such flat spot off the line with the 4T80E.
  19. Real rubber is one of the few things that expands as it gets colder. I don't know if neoprene or whatever they use in the air bags has that unusual property or not.
  20. I've known a lot of airbags that had a short in the fuse box, but this is the first time I've heard of one on the steering wheel of a Cadillac.
  21. The clockspring is what I was referring to. Check the rest of the wires down the column and see if that's where the short is. If it's a function of temperature and doesn't act up when the wheel is turned, the short might be somewhere else. I would check the harness at the firewall feedthrough to the horn relay.
  22. If you've already replaced the wiring in the steering column when you replaced the airbags, you have done the worst of the jobs. If you left the wiring in the steering column, then look at it, some insulation may be worn through somewhere. There is a spiral ribbon cable between the rotating parts and the non-rotating parts that is the first place to look.
  23. The horns are important and may be items on your safety inspection for registering the car. There are only these items: Horn button and wiring down the steering column. Horn relays. Horns themselves sticking. Wiring and connectors. In other words, very doable. OBD codes may be able to help but you will need either a test light or a voltmenter/ohmmeter to find the problems. I would start with the relays, if only because that's the simplest fix. If the horns click when the horn button is pushed, it's the horns themselves, and if you use them a few times they may unstick.
  24. I would check the ground connections. Begin with the ardruino connections, make sure that they are all good connections. If you remove any of the splices, use new splices. Never re-use electrical parts for crimping or splicing. I believe that you can still run the OBD codes yourself in a 2006 model; I'm not sure about the SRX model. There may not be a problem with the voltage readings. There are several points that the car reads the voltage: at the alternator armature, where 15.5 Volts is normal when the battery is charging, which always happens right after you start the car, the system battery voltage which is at the maxifuse block under the hood which should be about 14 Volts when the engine is running, and at the battery, which should be a few tenths of a Volt higher than the system voltage. Note that the voltage reading will vary a bit depending on where you have the ground connected. When you are measuring with a voltmeter, the nearest large metal body part, like a dashboard support, is good. Another thing to check if the volatages are strange is the battery ground cable. There are three battery ground cable connections: one on the right rear of the engine, one on the inner fender wall near the battery, and a wiring harness connector. Those all need to be clean and tight. Both battery cable connections to the battery should be clean and tight, too. Sometimes corrosion builds up to the point that the connection is less than perfect on either or both the positive terminal to red cables, or negative terminal to black cables.
  25. The nominal rolling diameter of your 275/40ZR18 tires is 26.66 inches, which compares to the nominal rolling diameter of factory 225/60WR16 tires of 26.63 inches (actual published for factory Goodyears is 26.6 inches). The difference is negligible, meaning that diameter won't cause fitment issues and the standard gear rations for the 4T80E transmission (3.11, 3.4, 3.71) will work too. Any interference issues will come from width or large negative camber at highest suspension travel. Your new tires are about two inches wider than the stock tires. With the proper offset (the axis of the strut passing through the center of the patch on the front), that's about an inch less clearance inboard and outboard, which may be tight but certainly doable with possible minor mods of the fender liners. Nominal rolling diameter is width*(aspect/100)+(rim size), all converted to inches. (275*(40/100))/25.4+18=26.66.