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Everything posted by rockfangd

  1. So wait is this in front of the engine or the back? It looks like the AC compressor which IIRC is front bottom of the engine. So you are saying they are on the Radiator side. What about from underneath?
  2. Hello. If they are anything like the mid 90s platform they are not that fun. Do the pipes look rusted? If so I would expect to replace the pipes and hoses. It could be that #7 hose. Check the clamps if you can. Think they were wormgear. If you can spray the area with brake cleaner and dry it good. That should help to closer pinpoint the source of the leak. How much of a drip is it? Sorry you had not gotten a response yet. Must have gotten missed.
  3. Hi All. So unfortunately I have to drive my D'Elegance this winter. I found it has a few issues with the cold. I replaced the battery today as it could not handle it. The shifter is so hard to move I am afraid of breaking something. It is fine when it is warm out and when it warms up but not when cold. My 1996 was the same way but not as bad as this one. I ordered a new cable from the dealer this morning. I am just hoping it is only the cable and not something in the column or transmission. Anyone have any issues with these? On a side note the front end sounds like crap as well when cold. Rides nice but makes nasty clunking noises when hitting small bumps. There again when warm outside 60*+ no noise. I have new front Arnott struts but cannot find the rest of the parts needed to assemble them. They have been sitting since last year because of this. If desperate the only thing I can think of is to buy a used set and disassemble them to get what I need. Happy Holidays to all.
  4. rockfangd

    Stiff Shifter 1997 Deville

    Thanks Barczy. I will drop the column and try that. Links were replaced a few years back with greasable ones. I changed them due to the noise. MY next try is the swaybar bushings Update. I dropped the column this morning and lubricated the pivots. I ran it up and down about 20 times. I left the hush, and lower dash panel out until I find out if it helps it. This way it will be easier to drop it again to do the cable. I have already done the transmission side before when I first noticed the issue. I will let you know what I find.
  5. rockfangd

    Stiff Shifter 1997 Deville

    Hi Bruce. Both. When I took it out of the garage a few weeks back it was stiff. When outside it is even worse
  6. rockfangd

    CTS Coupe Sunroof?

    Wait so it is only a sunroof? In a Cadillac... Maybe there was not enough room to go back? I dont know because I am not a big fan of them. Sunroof opens up at rear only Moonroof opens rearward and upward
  7. rockfangd

    TPS and ICM Question

    Sure will. We live here😁
  8. rockfangd

    TPS and ICM Question

    Cruise cable not necessary to be hooked up. One of your steering wheel control switches is either stuck or shorted. See each one of them when pressed provides a different specific resistance value that is translated by the computer and sent to the IPC (iirc) Then it is sent out to the module from there. This makes me wonder if you have either a clockspring issue or a chaffed wire in the column, could even be behind the airbag. Do the switches light up? I ask this because they may have been left unplugged if someone had the airbag out. The pressure switch code is likely the pressure switch at the firewall for the AC. Ok for now. Remove the Accelerator cable from the Throttle body, manually move the butterfly and let it close by itself. Does it close? Then try the same with the cruise cable disconnected. From there check the cable that goes to the pedal and see if it is kinked anywhere in its tight journey from the TB to the firewall. Glad you are feeling Better. No time to get sick
  9. Glad to hear. Thanks for posting back.
  10. Ok IIRC remove right wheel. Access through wheel well above cv shaft. Held in with 1 10mm bolt. Not saying there is alot of room but a 1/4 ratchet should fit nicely. Remove the bolt. Twist sensor back and forth as you attempt to pull it up and out of the hole. The-oring will fight a little bit. Put a little oil around new oring before installing
  11. Welcome to Caddyinfo Forum. Which speed sensor are you referring to? The one on the transmission?
  12. rockfangd

    Mailbag: fewest words category

    I can top that THE🤣
  13. Bet it is. Just remember not to use too much. Will cause bigger problems
  14. I prefer the pvc for longevity because fiberglass tends to make the paint crack in places overtime. Thats just my experience anyway
  15. I would go for the plastic, but both would be sufficient. I remember them also. Many Chevys out there with broken fillers.
  16. rockfangd

    Mailbag: stop engine low oil pressure

    I second the oil pressure switch. If that does not resolve it change the oil and filter. Sometimes the filter can cause the issue also
  17. Hello. Which car is this? Check your fuses in the trunk on the back side of the seat, left side. If you give me the year and model I can look at the schematic and it should be pretty obvious
  18. rockfangd

    TPS and ICM Question

    If this continues after you get it back together you need to get a scantool hooked up to see what the IAC counts are. If IAC counts are 0 and the idle is high there is for sure a vacuum leak. If IAC counts are high and the idle is high then likely the IAC is at fault. Was the IAC replaced? If it was was it the correct one?
  19. rockfangd

    TPS and ICM Question

    Sorry for the delay with my posts. Work too much. Great to hear you found the 1634 problem. I hope you closely inspected the rest of those wires in that plug. As soon as I saw the 0 on that pin that nailed it. You are doing very well. We will get this. Long shot I know but it bears to mention that vacuum leaks do not always cause a lean code. That issue you resolved could cause all kinds of goofy issues. I highly suggest that you go over every vacuum hose, electrical connector, and bolt or nut that was touched throughout the process. If you had a high idle problem that was IAC related it should throw a code also. Be patient as you are making progress
  20. rockfangd

    TPS and ICM Question

    The connectors to the pcm should have a label on the side of them and the first number on one side correlating to the letter, and the last number on the other side
  21. Welcome to CaddyInfo. First off what happens when you dont pull the headlight switch? I ask this because everything is automatic so long as you have the twilight sentinel set to anything but off. Do your domelamps work properly? And your parking lights? I am trying to narrow to see if the sunload sensor could be faulty. It is located up on the dash in the defroster vent (just forward of the speaker grill) The left one IIRC. Will get more into it depending on your response. There are 2 fuses related to the interior lamps. comfort fuse. 10amp. Located in panel at left rear fuse panel in trunk. It is located directly behind the back seat. interior lamps fuse. located in the underhood electrical center also a 10 amp.
  22. rockfangd

    TPS and ICM Question

    Yes. Check the voltages at the fuses first before you tear it all apart again. If you find that while running all the fuses show the same voltage or at least within .5 volts of each other then go farther. To ohm the pink wire you would first pull the fuse and verify which side is the input side. It will have 12v with ignition on. You will want to ohm from the other one to the pin at the pcm. Without fuse installed
  23. rockfangd

    TPS and ICM Question

    last one I had was a freightliner and the Transmission module kept dropping out. All fuses tested good. When plug to TCM was unplugged wire tested good. When plugged in it lacked about 4 volts. So rather than 12 it had 8. That fuse caused a tow bill because when the Transmission module goes down the bus goes nowhere.
  24. rockfangd

    TPS and ICM Question

    This is on the right track for sure. There is a specific reason I said to replace the fuse. That is because of fatigue. I mention that because I have on multiple occasions had a fuse that tested good but the element was broken off a leg and although testing good on both sides The voltage will be present but not consistent, and worse under load. I had a picture of a fuse with the issue but I would have to find it. Looked normal and tested good but the element was just touching the leg