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KHE last won the day on January 21

KHE had the most liked content!

About KHE

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    CaddyInfo Oldtimer

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    West Michigan

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  • Car Model and Year
    '93 FWB, '05 Deville, '04 Deville

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  1. Daddy Dave didn't state what model of 2005 Cadillac he has but reading the information from the owner's manual that were recently posted, I am guessing it is not a Deville. The 2005 Deville/DHS/DTS were the last models that could display the codes on the information center. Can you post page 2-47? It looks like there are customization settings for the locks that should fit his needs.
  2. I did the ring cleaning procedure in a '97 STS I used to have. There is no need for the Kent Moore tool. The key is to let the top engine cleaner sit in the cylinders as long as possible. It took me a couple of days - jacked up the rear of the car as high as I could to get the rear cylinders closer to level. Poured in the TEC through the spark plug holes. Let it sit for 24 hours, then lowered the rear and jacked up the front of the car, repeated the TEC injection and let it sit for another 24 hours. Once the fronts were done, I used a MityVac vacuum pump to such as much of the TEC out of the cylinders as I could. I disabled the ignition and with all eight spark plugs removed, cranked the engine until the TEC quit spewing out of the spark plug holes. Next, change the engine oil as it will have a fair amount of TEC in it that seeps past the rings. Start the engine and go for a drive. Hammer it and it will smoke like crazy for a few miles until all the TEC burns off. Then change the oil again after a couple hundred miles. That procedure seemed to reduce the oil consumption but it's been so long ago I can't really remember. The TEC is not cheap and you'll need several containers of it to do the job. The Rotella 10W-30 is a great oil for these engines. I do not miss the pre-2000 Northstars with respect to oil consumption. I have a 2004 Deville and a 2005 Deville and it is very rare to have to add any oil between oil changes.
  3. I couldn't open the sound file but from the description, it could be the clutch gap may be too wide. The spec is .020-.030". You can check that with a feeler gage and if it is out of spec, it can be adjusted but you need the clutch plate tools. Autozone has them in their loan a tool program. If the pulley is wobbling, that could be a bad bearing. The bearing can be replaced without messing with the refrigerant charge. If this were my car, I'd check the clutch air gap, if good, remove the serpentine belt and spin the pulley to check the hub bearing.
  4. The older Northstar cars had an alternate method of engine removal from the top. I only have a 2005 shop manual and it only covers dropping the engine out the bottom. I don't have a hoist but I was thinking about lifting the front of the car with an engine crane in order to clear the powertrain. I seem to recall someone on this board had done it that way several years back but can't find it in the archives. Once the powertrain is out, I would need to find a way to move the car forward in order to close the garage door. My fear is getting the car torn down and not being able to remove the powertrain.
  5. From what I've read, the threads in the block are usually OK, unlike the earlier fine thread pitch bolts on the 2003 and earlier. Is it necessary to install Timeserts in this generation of engine?
  6. My wife called me yesterday afternoon and said the '04 Deville was running one to two segments hotter than the normal midpoint mark. The car has just over 100,300 miles on it - I bought it almost a year ago and 11,000+ miles ago. When I got home from work, I removed the surge tank cap in order to test the purge line flow and smelled exhaust. The purge line is flowing, the fans are coming on. I knew it was the headgasket(s) or loose/pulled bolts but got the tester from Autozone. The fluid turned yellow fairly quickly and with the engine idling, I could see and smell exhaust from the surge tank. This caught me by surprise as the coarse head bolts were supposed to have solved the issue. I may try to lift the body off the powertrain with an engine hoist this time vs. pulling the engine from the top. My concern is the lack of depth in my garage and the cold temps to do the actual powertrain removal.
  7. The Friday before last, my wife called me and said her 2004 Deville wouldn't start. A friend of hers drove her home and when I got home from work, we took the Silverado (along with tools, battery load tester, tow strap, etc. with us) to the doctor's office where the car left her. I opened the door and the interior lights were about half the normal brightness so I hooked up the jumper cables and got it started. When I removed the cables, the car died after a few seconds. A repeat procedure and leaving the cables hooked up for five minutes allowed the car to be driven home but the "battery volts" display on the DIC would only exceed 12.6V if I revved the engine. At highway speeds, the battery voltage was normal - 14.7 V but would drop at idle until everything warmed up. I put the charger on it and after a couple of hours, the battery was fully charged. The starter and alternator shop I use told me that was a symptom of a failing diode. Before pulling the alternator, I checked the output with my oscilloscope and did not see any negative component on the waveform although it was low - 12.2 V. I checked the signal on my 2005 Deville and it was identical except it was 14.7V, not 2V lower. I decided that I was going to have it rebuilt so I began to see what was involved in removing the alternator. The shop manual says to remove the radiator and associated oil cooler lines.. Looking at it, I decided NOT to follow the shop manual procedure. There are enough slack in the cooling hoses to slide the radiator and condenser forward. With the airbox out of the way and the cross car brace removed, it was not that bad of a job to remove the fans. Once the fans were out, it was a quick job to remove the alternator. The rebuilder called me to inform me that the terminals of the voltage regulator were the problem. Apparently, one of the terminals was not welded which would result in the intermittent charging until the car warmed up. Must have been a factory defect with the Nippondenso alternator. I had the shop rebuild the alternator and all was well after I re-installed it the next night. The biggest problem was removing the fans - the housing interfered with the radiator hoses but it can be removed without removing the radiator (and oil cooler lines). It was unfortunate that the factory procedure was so involved when the previous generation Deville had an access panel that when removed, allowed the alternator to be remoded from the bottom in less than a half hour.
  8. I feel your pain. My wife's 2004 Deville got hit in the church parking lot a week and a half ago. No note was left. Right rear quarter panel, rear bumper, and right tail light damaged - $1600 in damage. Michigan is a no-fault state so it goes on my insurance policy. Whoever hit it knew they hit it and just left. Two weeks earlier, my boat trailer got hit in the parking lot of the launch ramp - no note left there either... At least I was able to fix that myself. It just makes one feel violated. Makes me want to buy a video camera and put it in place so I can catch these SOBs in action...
  9. Oil consumption can be an issue on the older Northstars. The oil consumption dropped when they redesigned the pistons and rings for the 2000 model year. My '04 and '05 Devilles use minimal oil between changes (the message never comes on) but the '96 and '97 Sevilles I used to own used a quart every 1500 miles and 1000 miles respectively. It was not a big deal to add a quart now and then when the message popped up on the information center. If you are serious on the car, have a combustion gas test done on the coolant to make sure you're not buying one with a bad headgasket.
  10. Wouldn't the connector plug into the sensor under your thumb in the photo above?
  11. The creaking noise in the actuators is due to the gears being stripped and/or cracked. If you have an actuator making noise, it needs to be replaced.
  12. If the "check coolant level" message comes on and the coolant level is correct, it is most likely the sensor in the surge tank. Unfortunately, GM makes you buy the whole surge tank... The OE part number is 31-2-23415 and there used to be a guy selling them on eBay but not lately. A Standard brand FLS-16 sensor is a little longer than the OE sensor but it will work if you lube it with some silicone grease. The silicone grease allows it to be pushed in enough so the harness will plug in. I went through this on a 2004 Deville I bought a few months ago. I checked the operation of the Standard Products sensor by siphoning out the surge tank. I received the low coolant message. Filling the surge tank to the correct level and the message went away. I only paid four bucks for the Standard Products sensor on eBay so it was worth it to me do some investigating to see if it would work. Remove the surge tank mounting bolts, unplug the sensor and use needle nose pliers to remove the old one - I'll bet it's split from the heat.
  13. Most likely a bad coil cassette given the fact that it is missing at idle and at speed. If it idled OK and only missed under load, that would point to spark plugs that were missing the platinum pad on the ground electrode. The platinum pad comes loose and is blown out the exhaust, then the ground electrode wears like a normal plug until the gap is excessive.
  14. It doesn't make sense that the coolant is puking on that side of the engine unless there is a leak at the water crossover gaskets or one of the silicone heater hose couplers. You might want to borrow the cooling system pressure tester from Autozone and pressurize the system when it is cold to see where it is leaking. Autozone has a block tester in their loan a tool program - you just need to buy the test fluid for $12 or so. You shouldn't do the test if you've added coolant recently as it may result in a false negative result.
  15. Disconnect the purge line from the surge tank and put it into the neck of the surge tank. Start the engine and verify that coolant is peeing out of the line. If it is not, then there is an obstruction in the purge line - most likely at the water pump cover where the hollow bolt connects the hose to the cover. Trace the line from the surge tank across the top of the engine, through the throttle body and to the water pump cover. If the line is flowing coolant, then I would test the coolant for combustion gasses.