KHE

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KHE last won the day on May 21

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About KHE

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    Male
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    West Michigan

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  • Car Model and Year
    '93 FWB, '05 Deville, '04 Deville

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  1. Terrance, I'm not sure if it is still working - I sold the '96 SLS in the Fall of 2010. Hopefully it's still working. Further experimentation on a '97 STS showed a 4700 ohm resistor did the trick but that was an STS, not an STS and the systems are different. The '97 STS went to the junkyard in early 2017 (at 225,000 miles on the clock) due to a cracked water jacket on the engine block. My current fleet is a '05 and '04 Deville plus the '93 Fleetwood Brougham that I have owned since it had 15 miles on the odometer. The Fleetwood Brougham has always been reliable as are the Devilles - probably one of the reasons I've been absent from this discussion board for awhile.
  2. Glad to help out. The Fleetwood Broughams are great cars - they'll never build another car like them. I'd start at the trunk tamper switch - make sure the wire is not shorted out.
  3. The lights on the headliner are switched on and off by pushing the textured portion of the lens. The exact symptoms you are experiencing are outlined in the service manual: All courtesy lamps and roof rail lamps stay ON with ignition in RUN or 10 minutes with the key off. The information below is from the 1993 shop manual - your car might be slightly different since it is a 1995 but I think the main differences were in the engine and transmission. Check: Circuits 156, 157, 158 and 159 for a short to ground. Also check for shorted front door key tamper and rear deck lid tamper switches. Circuit 158 is the black wire from the central control module (CCM) to the headlight switch. The CCM is in the trunk behind the rear seat. Circuit 157 is the grey wire between the CCM and the mini wedge switches in each of the four doors. They control the DOOR AJAR light, illuminated entry, and the courtesy lights. Circuit 156 would be the white wire from each door key tamper switch and trunk key tamper switch to the door mini wedge switches. Circuit 159 is a grey wire from the CCM to the door mini wedge switches. An easy way to isolate the problem is to unplug one switch at a time and see if the problem goes away. Once you find the circuit that is causing the problem, you can then inspect the wires for a short to ground or substitute another switch to see if the switch is bad.
  4. When the battery is connected, do the lights remain off or do they come back on? There could be an issue with the switch on the dash or one of the switches in each door that causes the body control module to think there is a door open. Is the "DOOR AJAR" light illuminated?
  5. Daddy Dave didn't state what model of 2005 Cadillac he has but reading the information from the owner's manual that were recently posted, I am guessing it is not a Deville. The 2005 Deville/DHS/DTS were the last models that could display the codes on the information center. Can you post page 2-47? It looks like there are customization settings for the locks that should fit his needs.
  6. I did the ring cleaning procedure in a '97 STS I used to have. There is no need for the Kent Moore tool. The key is to let the top engine cleaner sit in the cylinders as long as possible. It took me a couple of days - jacked up the rear of the car as high as I could to get the rear cylinders closer to level. Poured in the TEC through the spark plug holes. Let it sit for 24 hours, then lowered the rear and jacked up the front of the car, repeated the TEC injection and let it sit for another 24 hours. Once the fronts were done, I used a MityVac vacuum pump to such as much of the TEC out of the cylinders as I could. I disabled the ignition and with all eight spark plugs removed, cranked the engine until the TEC quit spewing out of the spark plug holes. Next, change the engine oil as it will have a fair amount of TEC in it that seeps past the rings. Start the engine and go for a drive. Hammer it and it will smoke like crazy for a few miles until all the TEC burns off. Then change the oil again after a couple hundred miles. That procedure seemed to reduce the oil consumption but it's been so long ago I can't really remember. The TEC is not cheap and you'll need several containers of it to do the job. The Rotella 10W-30 is a great oil for these engines. I do not miss the pre-2000 Northstars with respect to oil consumption. I have a 2004 Deville and a 2005 Deville and it is very rare to have to add any oil between oil changes.
  7. I couldn't open the sound file but from the description, it could be the clutch gap may be too wide. The spec is .020-.030". You can check that with a feeler gage and if it is out of spec, it can be adjusted but you need the clutch plate tools. Autozone has them in their loan a tool program. If the pulley is wobbling, that could be a bad bearing. The bearing can be replaced without messing with the refrigerant charge. If this were my car, I'd check the clutch air gap, if good, remove the serpentine belt and spin the pulley to check the hub bearing.
  8. The older Northstar cars had an alternate method of engine removal from the top. I only have a 2005 shop manual and it only covers dropping the engine out the bottom. I don't have a hoist but I was thinking about lifting the front of the car with an engine crane in order to clear the powertrain. I seem to recall someone on this board had done it that way several years back but can't find it in the archives. Once the powertrain is out, I would need to find a way to move the car forward in order to close the garage door. My fear is getting the car torn down and not being able to remove the powertrain.
  9. From what I've read, the threads in the block are usually OK, unlike the earlier fine thread pitch bolts on the 2003 and earlier. Is it necessary to install Timeserts in this generation of engine?
  10. My wife called me yesterday afternoon and said the '04 Deville was running one to two segments hotter than the normal midpoint mark. The car has just over 100,300 miles on it - I bought it almost a year ago and 11,000+ miles ago. When I got home from work, I removed the surge tank cap in order to test the purge line flow and smelled exhaust. The purge line is flowing, the fans are coming on. I knew it was the headgasket(s) or loose/pulled bolts but got the tester from Autozone. The fluid turned yellow fairly quickly and with the engine idling, I could see and smell exhaust from the surge tank. This caught me by surprise as the coarse head bolts were supposed to have solved the issue. I may try to lift the body off the powertrain with an engine hoist this time vs. pulling the engine from the top. My concern is the lack of depth in my garage and the cold temps to do the actual powertrain removal.
  11. The Friday before last, my wife called me and said her 2004 Deville wouldn't start. A friend of hers drove her home and when I got home from work, we took the Silverado (along with tools, battery load tester, tow strap, etc. with us) to the doctor's office where the car left her. I opened the door and the interior lights were about half the normal brightness so I hooked up the jumper cables and got it started. When I removed the cables, the car died after a few seconds. A repeat procedure and leaving the cables hooked up for five minutes allowed the car to be driven home but the "battery volts" display on the DIC would only exceed 12.6V if I revved the engine. At highway speeds, the battery voltage was normal - 14.7 V but would drop at idle until everything warmed up. I put the charger on it and after a couple of hours, the battery was fully charged. The starter and alternator shop I use told me that was a symptom of a failing diode. Before pulling the alternator, I checked the output with my oscilloscope and did not see any negative component on the waveform although it was low - 12.2 V. I checked the signal on my 2005 Deville and it was identical except it was 14.7V, not 2V lower. I decided that I was going to have it rebuilt so I began to see what was involved in removing the alternator. The shop manual says to remove the radiator and associated oil cooler lines.. Looking at it, I decided NOT to follow the shop manual procedure. There are enough slack in the cooling hoses to slide the radiator and condenser forward. With the airbox out of the way and the cross car brace removed, it was not that bad of a job to remove the fans. Once the fans were out, it was a quick job to remove the alternator. The rebuilder called me to inform me that the terminals of the voltage regulator were the problem. Apparently, one of the terminals was not welded which would result in the intermittent charging until the car warmed up. Must have been a factory defect with the Nippondenso alternator. I had the shop rebuild the alternator and all was well after I re-installed it the next night. The biggest problem was removing the fans - the housing interfered with the radiator hoses but it can be removed without removing the radiator (and oil cooler lines). It was unfortunate that the factory procedure was so involved when the previous generation Deville had an access panel that when removed, allowed the alternator to be remoded from the bottom in less than a half hour.
  12. I feel your pain. My wife's 2004 Deville got hit in the church parking lot a week and a half ago. No note was left. Right rear quarter panel, rear bumper, and right tail light damaged - $1600 in damage. Michigan is a no-fault state so it goes on my insurance policy. Whoever hit it knew they hit it and just left. Two weeks earlier, my boat trailer got hit in the parking lot of the launch ramp - no note left there either... At least I was able to fix that myself. It just makes one feel violated. Makes me want to buy a video camera and put it in place so I can catch these SOBs in action...
  13. Oil consumption can be an issue on the older Northstars. The oil consumption dropped when they redesigned the pistons and rings for the 2000 model year. My '04 and '05 Devilles use minimal oil between changes (the message never comes on) but the '96 and '97 Sevilles I used to own used a quart every 1500 miles and 1000 miles respectively. It was not a big deal to add a quart now and then when the message popped up on the information center. If you are serious on the car, have a combustion gas test done on the coolant to make sure you're not buying one with a bad headgasket.
  14. Wouldn't the connector plug into the sensor under your thumb in the photo above?