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KHE last won the day on December 30 2020

KHE had the most liked content!

About KHE

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    CaddyInfo Oldtimer

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  • Car Model and Year
    '93 FWB, '05 Deville, '04 Deville

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    West Michigan

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  1. It's fixed. I could not remove the lock cylinder since I could not insert the key and the lock cylinder couldn't be rotated to depress the release pin. That failure mode was not listed in the service manual... I could not find any information online other than a locksmith from Georgia who repaired the same issue on a 2001 Deville but the video did not include the method he used to remove the cylinder... I called a locksmith because I did not want to risk causing any damage to the column. The locksmith confirmed there was a bent wafer in the furthest position in. He removed the piece t
  2. The column is locked - I can't move the shift lever out of park as the key won't go all the way in to unlock the column. The column being locked presented a problem as I couldn't rotate the steering wheel to access the airbag release clips. I was able to remove the lower column shroud and depress the lock pin with a right angle pick enough to rotate the steering wheel enough to access the airbag clips. The center airbag is out and the steering wheel is ready to be pulled. My puller is for the old style Saginaw columns that have threaded holes for the puller. This one takes the type th
  3. My wife was running errands yesterday and the ignition key could not be inserted into the ignition. I drove over to where the incident occurred and sure enough - the key could not be inserted into the ignition. There was a brass tab sticking down and I used a pick to get it to retract and then was able to insert the key into the ignition except for the last 1/8". I sprayed some lock graphite in there and worked the key in and out, tapping it but after 15-20 minutes, gave up and called a tow truck. It's in my garage and I am about to tear into the column. I figure the lock cylinder is
  4. A little lifter tick is not a big deal compared to loading the crankcase and exhaust with moisture by starting frequently during the winter months. I used to start my car up during the winter months too until the guru told me that I was doing more harm than good to the engine.
  5. Even if I would have known the screw had left hand threads, it wouldn't budge. It was seized into the bushing of the sensor which was strange since the car doesn't see road salt. I wonder what the failure mode is on these sensor? Mine was most likely some component on the circuit board. I would bet the seizure of those screws in the sensor is the reason a new screw is included with the sensor. The new one in my car has anti-seize on the threads. Hopefully, I don't need to do the job again but if I do, it will be much easier.
  6. My '05 Deville had the airbag light on and a SDM B0101 CURRENT code. It just happened one day a few weeks ago when I backed it out of the garage to wash it. I store it winters and have put less than 1000 miles on it this driving season. The shop manual defined the code as "front impact sensor discard". The manual concentrated on the SDM B0100 which is an opened sensor and there was not much information on the B0101 code. I figured the sensor was shot but the retail price of the sensor is $220.00 - I decided to remove the sensor from my wife's 2004 Deville and install it in the '05 to
  7. Your list is decent except for the part on running the engine once per month. One thing that should be done is to change the engine oil and filter just prior to storage so that there is fresh, clean oil on the bearings for the storage period. The WORST thing you can do to a car in storage is to start it and let it run. Coolant temperature has nothing to do with oil temperature. All you're doing is loading the crankcase with blowby and moisture. The exhaust is also being loaded with moisture. The only way to get the engine oil hot enough is to drive the car for 10+ miles (which you do
  8. Terrance, I'm not sure if it is still working - I sold the '96 SLS in the Fall of 2010. Hopefully it's still working. Further experimentation on a '97 STS showed a 4700 ohm resistor did the trick but that was an STS, not an STS and the systems are different. The '97 STS went to the junkyard in early 2017 (at 225,000 miles on the clock) due to a cracked water jacket on the engine block. My current fleet is a '05 and '04 Deville plus the '93 Fleetwood Brougham that I have owned since it had 15 miles on the odometer. The Fleetwood Brougham has always been reliable as are the
  9. Glad to help out. The Fleetwood Broughams are great cars - they'll never build another car like them. I'd start at the trunk tamper switch - make sure the wire is not shorted out.
  10. The lights on the headliner are switched on and off by pushing the textured portion of the lens. The exact symptoms you are experiencing are outlined in the service manual: All courtesy lamps and roof rail lamps stay ON with ignition in RUN or 10 minutes with the key off. The information below is from the 1993 shop manual - your car might be slightly different since it is a 1995 but I think the main differences were in the engine and transmission. Check: Circuits 156, 157, 158 and 159 for a short to ground. Also check for shorted front door key tamper and rear deck lid tamper switc
  11. When the battery is connected, do the lights remain off or do they come back on? There could be an issue with the switch on the dash or one of the switches in each door that causes the body control module to think there is a door open. Is the "DOOR AJAR" light illuminated?
  12. Daddy Dave didn't state what model of 2005 Cadillac he has but reading the information from the owner's manual that were recently posted, I am guessing it is not a Deville. The 2005 Deville/DHS/DTS were the last models that could display the codes on the information center. Can you post page 2-47? It looks like there are customization settings for the locks that should fit his needs.
  13. I did the ring cleaning procedure in a '97 STS I used to have. There is no need for the Kent Moore tool. The key is to let the top engine cleaner sit in the cylinders as long as possible. It took me a couple of days - jacked up the rear of the car as high as I could to get the rear cylinders closer to level. Poured in the TEC through the spark plug holes. Let it sit for 24 hours, then lowered the rear and jacked up the front of the car, repeated the TEC injection and let it sit for another 24 hours. Once the fronts were done, I used a MityVac vacuum pump to such as much of the TEC ou
  14. I couldn't open the sound file but from the description, it could be the clutch gap may be too wide. The spec is .020-.030". You can check that with a feeler gage and if it is out of spec, it can be adjusted but you need the clutch plate tools. Autozone has them in their loan a tool program. If the pulley is wobbling, that could be a bad bearing. The bearing can be replaced without messing with the refrigerant charge. If this were my car, I'd check the clutch air gap, if good, remove the serpentine belt and spin the pulley to check the hub bearing.
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