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Everything posted by KHE

  1. KHE

    2002 ETC A/C Compressor Noise

    I couldn't open the sound file but from the description, it could be the clutch gap may be too wide. The spec is .020-.030". You can check that with a feeler gage and if it is out of spec, it can be adjusted but you need the clutch plate tools. Autozone has them in their loan a tool program. If the pulley is wobbling, that could be a bad bearing. The bearing can be replaced without messing with the refrigerant charge. If this were my car, I'd check the clutch air gap, if good, remove the serpentine belt and spin the pulley to check the hub bearing.
  2. My wife called me yesterday afternoon and said the '04 Deville was running one to two segments hotter than the normal midpoint mark. The car has just over 100,300 miles on it - I bought it almost a year ago and 11,000+ miles ago. When I got home from work, I removed the surge tank cap in order to test the purge line flow and smelled exhaust. The purge line is flowing, the fans are coming on. I knew it was the headgasket(s) or loose/pulled bolts but got the tester from Autozone. The fluid turned yellow fairly quickly and with the engine idling, I could see and smell exhaust from the surge tank. This caught me by surprise as the coarse head bolts were supposed to have solved the issue. I may try to lift the body off the powertrain with an engine hoist this time vs. pulling the engine from the top. My concern is the lack of depth in my garage and the cold temps to do the actual powertrain removal.
  3. The older Northstar cars had an alternate method of engine removal from the top. I only have a 2005 shop manual and it only covers dropping the engine out the bottom. I don't have a hoist but I was thinking about lifting the front of the car with an engine crane in order to clear the powertrain. I seem to recall someone on this board had done it that way several years back but can't find it in the archives. Once the powertrain is out, I would need to find a way to move the car forward in order to close the garage door. My fear is getting the car torn down and not being able to remove the powertrain.
  4. From what I've read, the threads in the block are usually OK, unlike the earlier fine thread pitch bolts on the 2003 and earlier. Is it necessary to install Timeserts in this generation of engine?
  5. The Friday before last, my wife called me and said her 2004 Deville wouldn't start. A friend of hers drove her home and when I got home from work, we took the Silverado (along with tools, battery load tester, tow strap, etc. with us) to the doctor's office where the car left her. I opened the door and the interior lights were about half the normal brightness so I hooked up the jumper cables and got it started. When I removed the cables, the car died after a few seconds. A repeat procedure and leaving the cables hooked up for five minutes allowed the car to be driven home but the "battery volts" display on the DIC would only exceed 12.6V if I revved the engine. At highway speeds, the battery voltage was normal - 14.7 V but would drop at idle until everything warmed up. I put the charger on it and after a couple of hours, the battery was fully charged. The starter and alternator shop I use told me that was a symptom of a failing diode. Before pulling the alternator, I checked the output with my oscilloscope and did not see any negative component on the waveform although it was low - 12.2 V. I checked the signal on my 2005 Deville and it was identical except it was 14.7V, not 2V lower. I decided that I was going to have it rebuilt so I began to see what was involved in removing the alternator. The shop manual says to remove the radiator and associated oil cooler lines.. Looking at it, I decided NOT to follow the shop manual procedure. There are enough slack in the cooling hoses to slide the radiator and condenser forward. With the airbox out of the way and the cross car brace removed, it was not that bad of a job to remove the fans. Once the fans were out, it was a quick job to remove the alternator. The rebuilder called me to inform me that the terminals of the voltage regulator were the problem. Apparently, one of the terminals was not welded which would result in the intermittent charging until the car warmed up. Must have been a factory defect with the Nippondenso alternator. I had the shop rebuild the alternator and all was well after I re-installed it the next night. The biggest problem was removing the fans - the housing interfered with the radiator hoses but it can be removed without removing the radiator (and oil cooler lines). It was unfortunate that the factory procedure was so involved when the previous generation Deville had an access panel that when removed, allowed the alternator to be remoded from the bottom in less than a half hour.
  6. KHE

    My DeVille Got Hit

    I feel your pain. My wife's 2004 Deville got hit in the church parking lot a week and a half ago. No note was left. Right rear quarter panel, rear bumper, and right tail light damaged - $1600 in damage. Michigan is a no-fault state so it goes on my insurance policy. Whoever hit it knew they hit it and just left. Two weeks earlier, my boat trailer got hit in the parking lot of the launch ramp - no note left there either... At least I was able to fix that myself. It just makes one feel violated. Makes me want to buy a video camera and put it in place so I can catch these SOBs in action...
  7. Oil consumption can be an issue on the older Northstars. The oil consumption dropped when they redesigned the pistons and rings for the 2000 model year. My '04 and '05 Devilles use minimal oil between changes (the message never comes on) but the '96 and '97 Sevilles I used to own used a quart every 1500 miles and 1000 miles respectively. It was not a big deal to add a quart now and then when the message popped up on the information center. If you are serious on the car, have a combustion gas test done on the coolant to make sure you're not buying one with a bad headgasket.
  8. Wouldn't the connector plug into the sensor under your thumb in the photo above?
  9. The creaking noise in the actuators is due to the gears being stripped and/or cracked. If you have an actuator making noise, it needs to be replaced.
  10. If the "check coolant level" message comes on and the coolant level is correct, it is most likely the sensor in the surge tank. Unfortunately, GM makes you buy the whole surge tank... The OE part number is 31-2-23415 and there used to be a guy selling them on eBay but not lately. A Standard brand FLS-16 sensor is a little longer than the OE sensor but it will work if you lube it with some silicone grease. The silicone grease allows it to be pushed in enough so the harness will plug in. I went through this on a 2004 Deville I bought a few months ago. I checked the operation of the Standard Products sensor by siphoning out the surge tank. I received the low coolant message. Filling the surge tank to the correct level and the message went away. I only paid four bucks for the Standard Products sensor on eBay so it was worth it to me do some investigating to see if it would work. Remove the surge tank mounting bolts, unplug the sensor and use needle nose pliers to remove the old one - I'll bet it's split from the heat.
  11. KHE

    Finally time for another car

    Most likely a bad coil cassette given the fact that it is missing at idle and at speed. If it idled OK and only missed under load, that would point to spark plugs that were missing the platinum pad on the ground electrode. The platinum pad comes loose and is blown out the exhaust, then the ground electrode wears like a normal plug until the gap is excessive.
  12. It doesn't make sense that the coolant is puking on that side of the engine unless there is a leak at the water crossover gaskets or one of the silicone heater hose couplers. You might want to borrow the cooling system pressure tester from Autozone and pressurize the system when it is cold to see where it is leaking. Autozone has a block tester in their loan a tool program - you just need to buy the test fluid for $12 or so. You shouldn't do the test if you've added coolant recently as it may result in a false negative result.
  13. Disconnect the purge line from the surge tank and put it into the neck of the surge tank. Start the engine and verify that coolant is peeing out of the line. If it is not, then there is an obstruction in the purge line - most likely at the water pump cover where the hollow bolt connects the hose to the cover. Trace the line from the surge tank across the top of the engine, through the throttle body and to the water pump cover. If the line is flowing coolant, then I would test the coolant for combustion gasses.
  14. KHE

    Back to Caddy ranks??

    If the P1860 and P0741 codes are set, the issue is the TCC solenoid. If only the P0741 code is set, the torque converter has slip greater than 200 RPM and till set the code. The transmission needs to be pulled to repair those seals. Spruce, I had the P0741 code on my '97 STS and lived with it for years before the clutches in the torque converter started coming apart. At that point, I swapped in a low mileage used transmission since the debris was everywhere in the old transmission.
  15. Locate a starter and alternator rebuilder in your area and take the starter to them. They will repair the starter for a fraction of the cost of the chain store junk.
  16. KHE

    headliner compatibility

    It might make sense to take the car to an auto upholstery/trim shop and have them evaluate it. A trim shop would be experienced in repairing headliners and surely have faced these types of issues before. A few years ago, I came close to buying a 1990 Brougham with the towing package and the only issue was a sagging headliner - I called the trim shop near me and they were very helpful. They said if the existing backer was not ruined with the push pins, it could be recovered, otherwise a junkyard headliner would need to be used just to obtain an undamaged backer. Seems like the price was about $200 to have them do the work. I didn't buy the car so I didn't obtain any more information.
  17. Yes - I had an extensive phone conversation with the guru when I repaired my Seville STS engine several years ago. The head bolts are not torque to yield. They provide constant clamping force due to the low static torque and the angular specification which removes friction from the equation as compared to just a standard torque value. Torque to yield bolts do get into the plastic region - that is the design of the rod cap bolts.
  18. Probably wrong terminology - the head bolts do not get into the plastic/elastic region. If there was a practical method to clean and re-apply the micro-encapsulated threadlocker, the head bolts could be re-used over and over. The rod bolts are torque to yield bolts - there is no threadlocker on them and the shop manual states they are not to be re-used.
  19. The Northstar head bolts are not torque to yield bolts. They have a microencapsulated threadlocker that acts as an anti-seize and locks them into place. There is no practical way of applying it in the field and there is not a substitute, so the procedure is to replace the head bolts. Glad to help. If you go to Timesert's website and look up the manufacturer's specific kits, in the Bigsert kit description, it actually says "for use when a Heilicoil pulls out" or something to that effect.
  20. DO NOT use Heilicoils in the Northstar engine - you will rip them out of the block the minute you torque the head bolts. Then you will need to use a Bigsert (large Timesert threaded bushing to repair the block). I tend to think that using Bigserts may weaken the block. I had a block crack on my '97 Seville after several years of service (that I repaired with Bigserts). I realize it is only one data point but I have no idea why other than it weakened the block enough that the internal stresses eventually caused the block to crack.
  21. KHE

    Mailbag: ride level system 85 Seville

    Most Cadillac dealers won't be familiar with a 32 year old car and you will be paying the highest labor rate around for them to learn about your car. If you can't do the work yourself, it is best to find an independent shop that is familiar with these cars as they will have a much lower overhead rate and a lower labor rate.
  22. KHE

    Mailbag: ride level system 85 Seville

    Have you verified that the electronic level control fuse is good? If the fuse is good, check the suspension height sensor to make sure it is still connected to the control arm and the frame.
  23. KHE

    Webasto moonroof part 97 Seville

    It looks like there is an e-ring groove in the shaft but I don't see an e-ring to retain the green part.
  24. 10 PSI of fuel pressure is normal for a throttle body injected engine. Did you check the vacuum line from the MAP sensor? I think that is the one that runs from the MAP sensor down to the throttle body. Where it runs under the throttle body, there is a rubber coupler that can rot and leak and cause a severe driveability issue.
  25. Keeping the original coil as a backup is a good idea. Keep a positive attitude on the rear plugs - they might not be that bad - On the Northstar, the rear bank is no problem at all. The 4.5 shouldn't be that difficult to R&R the rear bank plugs.