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It may be as simple as needing a new belt (or maybe a new belt tensioner; shouldn't be too expensive (if this is the case).

Chuck

'25 CT5, '04 Bravada........but still lusting for that '69 Z-28

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i just came back from meineke they are telling me its my engine ready to blow they wouldnt even align it for me! they say they dont want to be responsible! i hate going there! they always tell me something is serious and it winds up being nothing! the car runs way too good for it to be major

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Generally if you turn the wheel all the way in one direction, the power steering pump will make a louder noise.

If you hear a noise when the A/C compressor engages, as C&C mentions it is often the accessory belt that is slipping.

Since you mention that the noise is 'loud and constant' when you have the A/C on, then perhaps the issue is that the A/C compressor clutch has failed, or the compressor is otherwise frozen, and the belt is having to slip on the compressor pulley? In this case a competent shop or mechanic should be able to immediately diagnose and then quote a repair. Don't turn on the a/c until you can have someone look at it.

These two symptoms have in common the accessory belt, which is a rubber belt that the engine uses to transmit power from the crankshaft pulley to various pulleys that run the alternator, power steering, etc.

Not sure what Meineke is describing as "...engine ready to blow..." as that is not a technical diagnosis.

Bruce

2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing

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Well, when i am pulling into a parking lot making a turn into any direction the noise will start, Also if im idling at the light and when i turn the a/c on. Meineke would not even start my car. They pushed it out the bay and made me sign a waiver! They first said it was the compressor, but later changed it to the engine problem. It doesnt make the noise while i am driving. So i dont believe its my engine. I just replaced water pump and radiator within the last 3-4 months could that be an issue?

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It is likely an issue with the air conditioning compressor. Find a competent shop other than the cretins at Meineke...

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Don't take your car to Meineke for a trustworthy diagnosis of ANYTHING...

Take it to a regular garage that actually has someone that has really worked on cars before.

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Could simply be low on power steering fluid or one of the power steering lines could be leaking....or maybe a weak/broken belt tensioner spring. Could be a bad/failing belt.

I attached a diagram of the belt layout.

#1 is the power steering pump hub.

#4 is the AC compressor hub.

#6 is the belt tensioner.

post-2-0-06743900-1365795062_thumb.jpg

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Reputable chains include Sears automotive, Goodyear shops, Pep Boys, and others. Be sure and check out any of these before you leave your car there. You seem to be pretty astute about seeing through people when you just walk in. Meineke is, in general, good, but I would stick to their core capabilities, i.e. mufflers and exhaust systems, shocks, etc. I looked at some work on my Cadillac at a Meineke a few years ago and asked if they welded stainless steel exhaust systems as most of their clients seemed to be trucks and large SUVs. They said yes, but they use iron welding rods, meaning that the welds will rust. I went elsewhere, and the car's exhaust system was repaired at a Midas, and this particular Midas was a large outfit near a fair-sized city that had mostly cars in their lot and was recommended by a large nearby shop that used them for their work.

When I am browsing for a mechanic, I watch for shops that are busy and have lots of cars there, then watch to make sure that the cars are different every day. Given that, a web search on the name of the shop to turn up online reviews can be very revealing. It's best to ignore one bad review if the rest are good, but a string of bad reviews usually means that you need to keep looking.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I only went there to get an alignment anyway. i just asked them to check the noise out. They heard the noise as i was pulling into the parking lot too. My heat wouldnt work before the noise started- it blew a little heat at a low fan speed, eventually got cold. Then one day it cut on fully the blower was loud sounded like something opened up! the a/c blows cold air- still, always has. i just cant use it because of the noise it makes! i dropped the car off at Merchants for my alignment. They told me the would check it out and dismissed the lower-engine blowing crap diagnosis! im gonna look into this a/c compressor

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just picked the deville up from merchants- they also are saying they do no know what the noise is! wth!! they did do my alignment though :) One mechanic says he cant be sure but it might be a crack in the flywheel?? would that have anything to do with the noise being louder and constant when i engage the a/c?

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just picked the deville up from merchants- they also are saying they do no know what the noise is! wth!! they did do my alignment though :) One mechanic says he cant be sure but it might be a crack in the flywheel??

Would that have anything to do with the noise being louder and constant when i engage the a/c?

No... I can not see where a noise when engaging the A/C would have anything at all to do with the flywheel.

Open the hood... start the engine with the AC OFF...

Go to the front of the car and LISTEN for any unusual noises.

Now turn the AC on...

Go back to the front of the car and LISTEN for the noise you are describing...

Move from the one fender, around the front of the car to the other fender while listening to the noise.

Try to kinda pinpoint what area it is coming from.

If you know how... make a video with sound so that we can hear it also.

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starts making the noise on startup (not always though) continues as it idles with just tick click click .... when i turn on ac it becomes louder it almost sounds like a messed up fan is spinning metal on metal with no pauses when the ac is on. its coming from the drivers side bottom of the car. i will make a video shortly!

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The Northstar uses a separate belt for the water pump, and it is in that region. When you had the water pump replaced they may not have replaced the idler pulley, or the new pump may not be functioning properly. Not sure why that would escalate if the a/c were on or not tho.

Bruce

2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing

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Hello. I got your PM and saw you posted a thread.

At first I was thinking that the belt tensioner may have been hitting the limiter at idle.

But I wonder if it could be possibly the harmonic balancer. IT is hard to tell in the video but It is great that you posted it.

I also wonder if it could be a cracked flexplate but am not sure if it would not make noise under load

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I'm really thinking that this is the serpentine belt. Replacing the serpentine belt is a maintenance item that should be done every 30,000 to 60,000 miles. Check your owner's manual. If you don't know, or it's never been done, it's probably a good idea. Often on a car that is several years old, you need to look at the idler, which is on an arm with spring tension and keeps it at the right tension. Logan has an excellent post on that as number 8.

Again, to look at the serpentine belt, you need to go to a shop that does serpentine belts. I've had good luck with such things at Goodyear stores, Pep Boys auto service, Sears Auto, and such general-purpose maintenance and mechanical shops. A lot of service stations have good mechanical service too. Wherever you go, look for the ASE certification on the wall. It will have this seal on it (via Wikimedia):

ASE_certified.png

Check the date on it (it should be less than 5 years old) and ask for the mechanic named on it to be sure he's there and will work on your car.

If you or someone you know well is reasonably handy, you can change the serpentine belt yourself. If the idler wheel needs replacing, you will need someone who is handy with automotive do-it-yourself work.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Hardly a belt chirp......sounds like a cracked flex plate or loose torque converter bolts to me.

Drivers side..kinda near both the water pump and the flex plate areas.

"I just replaced water pump and radiator within the last 3-4 months".....maybe the water pump install has gone sour. But I can't imagine a water pump making that much racket.

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Hardly a belt chirp......sounds like a cracked flex plate or loose torque converter bolts to me.

Drivers side..kinda near both the water pump and the flex plate areas.

"I just replaced water pump and radiator within the last 3-4 months".....maybe the water pump install has gone sour. But I can't imagine a water pump making that much racket.

thats what I was thinking. Definately not a belt chirp. Not even close

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Who replaced the water pump?

Can you take it to a trusted mechanic or perhaps to the dealer for diagnosis?

Bruce

2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing

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I wouldn't think the water pump should be able to make that noise in any case. However it would not be too hard to remove the belt from it and eliminate that first thing. I would then remove the cover for the torque converter bolts, and check for any loose bolts. They could make less noise when under load, because the slack would be taken out. Anything that would put a light load on the engine may be able to keep the slack out of the bolt/to hole until the load is lessened, (the a/c). . It would cost very little to check or repair if that is the problem.

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