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This version block uses the newer M11 x 2.0 thread. There is a Kent Moore / Timesert kit to fix these. The J-42385-2030 kit is available as a rental.

New platform GDS2. See attached chart. New....$2000-2500. Used....$500...800. Fake...$200...300. Mine is a used 500 one.

Knew I would have to get one someday. Wife has a 2012 Equinox that uses newer GM network platform. No diagnostic coverage using a Tech 2. The Equinox has been suffering some BCM problems lately with no way to plug in.. Only thing I could get was powertrain codes using cheapo scanner. Anyway.....GM MDI 2. Used. Came in today. It uses a laptop and this interface to do system diagnostics and ....added bonus....program replacement modules. There is a MDI 1 version too.....and there are (most of them) Chinese fakes all over the place. Will be setting this up over the next week or so. This one is a real Bosch unit.

On older models......the ABS computer was in the trunk. I think in '95 it was incorporated into the pump assembly under the hood. The underhood ones can get damaged by moisture etc. The electrical plug can get eaten away. All the computers are wired on a loop. So each computer has 2 network connections wires. So if a single wire got damaged the system would still work. If any of the computers went bad.....it can pull down the whole network. Don't think you need a lap scope....just a DVOM. On OBDI cars you could measure the network voltage at the ALDL......was suppose to vary like 2-5 volts all the time.....if you saw the voltage lock...the fault was happening....and within 30 seconds or so you would start getting the network errors and codes. To catch....you unplug each computer one at a time while watching the network voltage. When the bad one is unplugged and the voltage resumes varying again....you found the bad one. Of course.....the fault has to be present and happening to detect. For a while mine was a intermittent...once every 200 miles kind of issue.

Circuit 800 codes. Very difficult code to catch....and yours is intermittent too.. On my '93 it was the IPC cluster. I would go and inspect the ABS unit first. They are known for rotting away. Pretty sure it is on the network......maybe it rotted in a way it is messing up the network.

Sudden no AC? Could be a bad compressor clutch coil. The pull in coil can sometimes fail and there will be no way to pull the clutch in. Or....sometimes the air gap wears into excessive gap....and the coil can't pull the clutch in....or it only happens when the engine parts are hot and expand. Both the AC coil and clutch plate can be swapped with the compressor in the car. No need to pull out the Freon. Most AC shops will simply recommend a complete new AC compressor assembly. They make more money that way. The actual style of the assemblies varies based on what brand of compressor etc you have....but the principal is the same. The brand can vary depending on year and engine etc. Some cars may have 2-3 different brands of compressors used on the same engine and year. I had one go out recently on a non-GM product...of course it happened on the hottest day....taking daughter to airport in rush hour....just as we were getting on highway.. Typically around $50 in parts.

Hmm......where were the injectors from? Aftermarket injectors rarely have the same flow rate as a original (GM) injector. The problems start when some injectors are flowing at x amount.....while the others are flowing at a different x amount. A injector balance test would show this.

Sounds like you know what the codes are etc. Curious.....Which cylinder do you think #2 is? Manual has you use Tech 2 misfire graph to verify. Manual has you move known good coil to replace....if problem still persists you replace the ECM.

Saw a interesting video that may provide a clue.....even bank fuse.....odd bank fuse... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lt7GtMTfN3Y As for codes......the thing to understand is......there has to be code written to be able to see a problem. Sure it can detect a misfire.....but it cannot detect a bad PCM ground. The scan tool not working is itself a clue. Car may have no external fuel filter (in tank pad).......and no fuel return line..... maybe high pressure direct injectors...but may be a little early for those.. could be a cracked intake....etc Everything you know.....has changed. I would doubt what the little old lady said.....believe nothing of what you hear. She may have run it out of oil for example....you just don't know til you start inspecting the systems. UPDATE: Did look in the GM service manual. The 2006 SRX has... Inline fuel filter. It appears to still use a fuel return line. Fuel pressure should be 55-65 psi @ idle. There is .....a 15a fuse used for odd bank coils.....and a 15a fuse used for even bank coils. Both fuses are in the underhood fuse block.

It's on the side of the housing.

Mmmm.....I would check that out closer before getting into a 2017 engine. You may be able to figure something out on what would work here.. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_High_Feature_engine Lots of variants of that engine.

Don't know how or what is going on with the oil. This is the latest version of the bulletin I see when doing a quick search on Google....11340C. https://testing-public.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/112470/3020368

The sheetmetal stays the same.....but the exterior and interior colors often change yearly. Interior parts typically fall off the 'available' dealer parts pretty quick....a couple of years after production.....simply not enough warehouse space to store 3000 spare 2001 Eldo left slate A pillar trim panels. The aftermarket headliner colors are pretty generic.....maybe a couple of grays....a couple of tans....black.....etc. They will never match exactly unless you redo both A pillars and the headliner....and B and C pillars at the same time too. In other words....you will never find a sheet of '154' slate. Some headliner material does have thinner foam backing material.....it's hard to find but it is out there. Best bet is to wait and just keep searching for the right parts car.

My GM service info only goes back to 1998. I did find a pic on Google of the late 80's Cadillac single leaf rear suspension (thanks auto zone..) Used only on the first year of the 'new' 1992 Seville and Eldo body style.

A pulled head bolt in a Northstar is typically the end of the road for the car. Very few actually get repaired. The ride control suspension messages can also be a issue. A variety of ways to deal with that. The 1992 the system can be disabled with a relay or changing some IPC settings. The 4.9 is kind of odd being aluminum block with iron heads. But you never hear about those pulling a head bolt up (perhaps they pre-date interenet postings to some extent). Little online info available about the '92 rear suspension.....it changed in '93. I did see this useful link about 'New for '93' Eldorado details.. http://www.100megsfree4.com/cadillac/cad1990/cad93e.htm

1992?....that's only 1800 miles per year....every year. Little bit odd. '92 will have OBDI.....so you can use onboard diagnostics. 2000 is OBDII. '92 will have a unique 'one year only rear suspension' and parts. 1993 and latter the rear suspension was different. '92. Only drivers side air bag....no passenger side air bag. Having owned both a 4.9 and a Northstar at different times.....I prefer the 4.9 setup.

I think adding to the problem is there are 2 very similar named solenoids. There is a: EVAP purge solenoid. (Located under the hood) p0443. EVAP vent solenoid (Located on the evap cansister or on some other cars on the gas tank) p0449. The underhood ones (for me) seem to be more problematic than the gas tank ones. Have seen several cause a 'no code, no start after fill up issue'. Could get the issue to move to an identical car by swapping the evap purge sensor.

What code are you getting? The evap vent and purge valves seem to becoming a new GM standard issue. I've had to replace several 'no code' ones on different GM cars. You likely need a scan tool to clear the code after the part is replaced to remove the code right away. If not you would need several drive cycles for the SES light to turn off. Have seen a leaking gas cap cause evap codes too.

GM service manual shows the threaded bolt style tool for the 02 Eldorado. Manual is not always correct....the other style was being introduced before 02....sometimes updates get overlooked. That said....they also don't like to change manufacturing tooling toward the end of life of the vehicle. I did go look a wheel up on eBay....sure looks like threaded style to me.

Yes.....they are tangled together. Wide variety of versions used over the 35+ years the column was around (in fact....02 Eldo might be the last GM car to use the Saginaw column..).....some with plug in stalks....some with screwed in stalks. Wiper control....cruise control...air bag coil assembly...etc. Fixing is not for the faint at heart.....need air bag tool....steering wheel puller....lock plate tool just to get the ball rolling. Second pic shows 1997 STS.....you can see the air bag coil....the switch is hard to see floating in the air over the radio..

Mmmm.......I disagree......I think something broke in the turn signal switch assembly.....almost 20 years old. The 02 Eldo was still using a GM Saginaw steering column.....used for a million years at GM....turn signal....cancel cam....hazards....horn....air bag......and....oh yeah...add tilt and wipers too......all built into the same switch assembly. Pic shows a 67 GTO version of the same switch.....not the exact same but pretty close. They are a bear to change.....there is also long harness that runs down the inside of the column.

Pretty sure your looking at a source for a Chinese clone Tech 2. No way to get it fixed if it breaks. Very crafty situation......Why sell fake Sony TVs when you can sell fake GM Tech 2s on eBay for thousands of dollars?....by the time anyone figures out it's a fake unit.....money is gone....seller is gone. They got away with it for several years before being exposed.....fakes are a dime a dozen now.

There are actually several different legit sources of Tech 2s over the years. There are also Chinese fakes all over eBay (with equally fake HP labels). Most Tech 2s on eBay and Craigslist etc are fakes. One guy got some prison time for selling fake GM Tech 2s. There are legit versions made by Vetronix, HP and Aligent. There are GM, Saturn, Vaxhaul and SAAB dealer logo labeled units. There are also a few OTC and Mac Tool label versions. The Tech 2 dates back to the mid 90's. So the software is really what will determine if it will work on a 2004 XLR. There are very early 10mb version and latter 32mb version PCIMA software cards. There are also several special adapters used by a few vehicle applications over the years. There is also a CANDI module adapted over the years to cover GM CAN equipped vehicles. 2012-2013 was pretty much the last years of coverage for GM vehicles. The real fire sale on legit Tech 2s was when GM forced a bunch of GM dealers to close. I bought 2 from a closing Saturn dealer in Illinois. Pic shows rare 'Saturn' logo version of the tool. Anyway....what are you hoping to use the Tech 2 for on the XLR?

I do not. This guy on eBay has 3 Eldo front bumpers for sale. You might try to see if he will sell one. https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=&fits=Model%3AEldorado&_ssn=jnjautoparts&hash=item5b51d949e6%3Ag%3A5LAAAOSwozNcPJg8%3Ark%3A12%3Apf%3A0&item=392215218662&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1312.R1.TR0.TRC0.A0.H0.TRS1&_nkw=eldorado+front+bumper&_sacat=0 Or you can try http://www.car-part.com

What.....This piece?