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Fluid Color


Rich

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Before I make myself crazy, I just want to know what you all think. My car, a 1997 Eldorado ETC with 124,500 miles, has just started leaking something on my driveway. This just started a few days ago and the spots are three to four inches across but not puddling. Crawling under the car, I can see a greenish yellow viscous fluid dripping from the front frame rail on the passenger side of the car. My cooling system is filled with Dexcool, the orange stuff, not the green coolant. Does anyone have any idea what this might be? It has an oily consistency, and as I said, is a greenish yellow color. Any takers?

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Before I make myself crazy, I just want to know what you all think. My car, a 1997 Eldorado ETC with 124,500 miles, has just started leaking something on my driveway. This just started a few days ago and the spots are three to four inches across but not puddling. Crawling under the car, I can see a greenish yellow viscous fluid dripping from the front frame rail on the passenger side of the car. My cooling system is filled with Dexcool, the orange stuff, not the green coolant. Does anyone have any idea what this might be? It has an oily consistency, and as I said, is a greenish yellow color. Any takers?

I would take off the coolant reservoir cap to make sure it is indeed orange.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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what about power steering fluid?

is it possible for you to catch a drip on a piece of paper or napkin and take a picture for us?

WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn.

Cheers!

5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount!

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There are only so many fluids. The only ones that are left that aren't red are power steering fluid (often red, too), washer fluid, and brake fluid.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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From the consistency of the fluid and the location of the leak, I really think this is motor oil but I'm confused by the color and how suddenly the leak developed. I'm almost due for an oil change anyway, so I'll probably just bring it in early next week for a fresh fill of Mobil 1 10W-30 High Mileage and see if they can determine the source of the leak. It's impossible to see anything from under the car, so I'll see what they find when the car is on the lift.

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I got this one, Pag oil, from the A/C compressor, or condensor, Sometimes greenish in color and in that area for sure, Just a thought, Any A/C related codes lately, sometimes the compressor seal goes and leaks oil, as soon as you said green that is the only thing that came to mind

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Ding ding ding!!! Give rockfangd the prize. It is oil leaking from the A/C compressor. Not from a seal unfortunately, but from the compressor housing that appears to have failed. The irony here is that I had a new compressor installed 16 months ago. Fortunately, the dealer (not the dealer that did the job 16 months ago) told me that the part is covered, but I will have to pay around $500 for installation. The dealer that did the work last time is out of business. I feel like whining, but what good will that do. I'll just pay and shut up. Thank you all for your wisdom. Happy Thanksgiving to all!!!

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Compressor oil is a very good suggestion. I think it's between that and brake fluid. About the only one left that isn't either engine oil or red is windshield washer fluid.

Here's my automotive fluids list, from the top of my head:

Fuel, such as gasoline and gasoline-alcohol (usually ethanol but rarely methanol or other alcohols or mixtures) mixes, or diesel fuel, or biofuel, or an electrical outlet. Rare two-stroke fuels include fuel/oil mixes. Exotic uses include pure ethanol or methanol, methanol/nitromethane mixes with castor oil, and others. Usually clear, sometimes tinted yellow, red, or other colors.

Motor oil, nearly always yellowish or yellow-brown but occasionally dyed other colors such as purple (notably Royal Purple brand oils) or red to distinguish grades or flag leaks.

Coolant with antifreeze, usually red, older chartreuse green, rarely other colors such as blue or yellow.

Brake fluid, usually clear, occasionally red to flag leaks, or tinted other colors.

Hydraulic fluid for clutch operation, common on FWD and 4WD vehicles with standard shift, and on trucks and other vehicles where the location of the clutch pedal in the cab is not conveniently located near the clutch mechanism.

Power steering fluid, usually tinted yellowish but occasionally red to flag leaks.

Automatic transmission fluid (ATF), nearly always red.

Refrigerant oil, included with a dry fill of an A/C system or when a major component such as a compressor, dryer, or condenser is replaced. Nearly always clear, but sometimes dyed red to flag leaks.

Windshield washer fluid, sometimes just water but nearly always a mixture including methanol or other volatile antifreeze and bug solvent and dyed a light blue.

Gear Oil, nearly always a dark amber or brown, used in steering gears including rack-and-pinion, but most often in old recirculating-ball worm gears that gave a large mechanical advantage for pre-power steering large cars and trucks. Most often seen in modern cars and trucks in transfer cases for 4WD vehicles and differential gears.

Lubricating grease, usually dark amber or brown but occasionally black (when containing graphite, moly sulfide, or tungsten sulfide) or white (when containing lithium compounds). Used in maintenance of ball joints, steering knuckles, Alderman arms, idler arms, and other steering and suspension joints. Most modern cars have permanently lubricated suspension and steering joints but not all such joints on all cars are maintenance-free for the life of the car.

Shock fluid, hydraulic fluid used in shock absorbers and struts. Composition may be similar to brake fluid, clutch hydraulic fluid, ATF, or motor oil; see below for why this is important. Nearly all modern shock absorbers and struts are sealed and must be replaced if the seal is broken, but on some trucks, particularly those that use rotary shocks, there is a shaft seal that cannot seal 100% and shock oil is checked and added on periodic maintenance.

Most fuels are petroleum distillates, some are biomass derived like alcohols and biofuels. All are medium hydrocarbons or alcohols.

Note about heavy alcohols: Brake fluid and many hydraulic fluids are heavy alcohols. These fluids will NOT mix with petroleum-based oils and are used because alcohols can be used long-term with rubbers and seals necessary to seal hydraulic cylinders such as calipers, master cylinders, brake cylinders, and clutch actuator cylinders, that petroleum based oils will attack and quickly deteriorate them.

When there is any doubt, such as with an unknown power steering unit or hydraulic clutch or shock fluid, etc., put a drop of the unknown fluid in a small container of water and shake or stir vigorously. Heavy alcohols will mix thoroughly with the water forming a single liquid, while oils will form a milky emulsion or settle at the top or bottom of the water.

Use of oil in a system that is designed for heavy alcohols will destroy the entire system, requiring replacing of all the cylinders and seals and flushing out the lines before returning the vehicle to service; I have seen this in the brakes of a Ford Taurus serviced by an illiterate but otherwise seemingly knowledgeable illegal immigrant who apparently thought that if it looks like oil and feels like oil, you can top it off with oil. In a dire emergency, you may use water to top off or refill a heavy alcohol system, but it must be flushed with the proper fluid and all cylinders bled ASAP to prevent corrosion damage.

Note that some Russian automotive and aircraft systems use methanol for brake fluid or hydraulic clutch fluid when cold weather and light use allow the low boiling point of light alcohols in these applications. In some very cold climates, This may allow one supply tank to be used for fuel, antifreeze, windshield washer additive, brake fluid, hydraulic clutch fluid, shock fluid, power steering fluid, and as the base component in beverage staples.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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If your compressor is covered by a Goodwrench warranty, installation is also covered. Note that you can get an aftermarket compressor, including installation, for less than $500. Complain.

GM General Motors Corporate Office Headquarters HQ

300 Renaissance Center

Detroit, MI United States

48265

GM Corporate Phone Number: 1-313-556-5000

If at all possible, have your dealer invoice for the compressor replacement handy when you call. You *must* have your VIN handy when you call.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Jim, if I were to complain, shouldn't I complain to Cadillac Customer Service at 1-800-458-8006? The work was done 16 months ago. Isn't the warranty on these types of things usually 12 months? Quite frankly, I'm surprised that they're covering anything at all. I'm also shocked that the compressor quit after 16 months. Genuine GM parts and service doesn't seem to count for much.

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It is possible the green color is from UV dye that may have been added to the A/C system at some point. It is rare a new compressor would fail as the issue was greatly reduced after January, 2001 when the seals were redesigned.

The compressor can be resealed but most shops/dealers would rather replace the whole unit. $500 to install a compressor is a ripoff.... Dealers sure are greedy these days....

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Rich - my Goodwrench warranty for my GM-installed A/C compressor is good for the life of the car as long as I own it, and it includes labor. I invoked it once, after dragging my heels for months because I was hoping that an intermittent clutch problem wouldn't bring down a perfectly good compressor. But, my dealer, represented by my Service Manger, called me more than once to urge me to bring it in to have it replaced for free. When I finally did do so because I needed reliable A/C compressor kick-in for windshield clearing in winter, they replaced the whole thing, in spite of my protestations that all it needed was a clutch clearance adjustment. Apparently the only thing that justifies a Goodwrench warranty is a whole new A/C compressor/clutch assembly, and that is what I got, for free.

I think that that the dealer that told you that installation wasn't covered didn't understand that GM covers installation. Call them back with the VIN or go back with the car and ask for them to check this out with GM. If they are at all conscientious, they will call and find out that GM does cover the installation. They may need the car back to get some check boxes filled in the deal, but that is the Goodwrench guarantee that I got when I bought my A/C compressor.

This is the reason that I advise people to go back to the dealer with old cars for some repairs. You should ask before you commit and consider the alternatives carefully, but sometimes the Goodwrench warranty is worth the extra cost, even for an old car. I could have replaced my A/C compressor in 2002 for $350 but I paid $600 for a dealer to replace it, and I'm glad I did it, and I would do it again with my wife's car if it comes up.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Jim, Thanks for the tip. I just called the dealer to discuss the warranty. When I asked if the warranty was a Goodwrench warranty, he said he thought it was a little different. He referred to it as a "Service Plus" warranty, then called it the GSP Warranty. When I suggested that "GSP" might be "Goodwrench Service Plus", he couldn't confirm that but said he would check the paperwork when I brought the car in on Tuesday morning. He reminded me not to forget the receipt for the original compressor replacement back in July of 2009. I also asked him if I should get a jump start on the issue and call Cadillac Customer Service to ask them to pay for the labor. He suggested that I not call them yet and to wait and see what he discovers on Tuesday. At the very least, he knows I'm not happy about paying another $500 to have this faulty compressor installed. I'll let you all know how this works out.

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I would not leave the car unless it was clearly stated that this was a repair covered by warranty including labor costs. Politely ask him to check into it and get back to you. And, if you have to leave with the car, call GM yourself and politely ask about it.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I also asked him if I should get a jump start on the issue and call Cadillac Customer Service to ask them to pay for the labor. He suggested that I not call them yet and to wait and see what he discovers on Tuesday. At the very least, he knows I'm not happy about paying another $500 to have this faulty compressor installed. I'll let you all know how this works out.

Translation: He doesn't want you to call Cadillac Customer Service because then his scam of charging for warranty repairs will be revealed to GM....

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Before I make myself crazy, I just want to know what you all think. My car, a 1997 Eldorado ETC with 124,500 miles, has just started leaking something on my driveway. This just started a few days ago and the spots are three to four inches across but not puddling. Crawling under the car, I can see a greenish yellow viscous fluid dripping from the front frame rail on the passenger side of the car. My cooling system is filled with Dexcool, the orange stuff, not the green coolant. Does anyone have any idea what this might be? It has an oily consistency, and as I said, is a greenish yellow color. Any takers?

I want to make sure you're not color blind.

Look at the figure below.

What number do you see?

post-253-129062029535_thumb.jpg

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I've been tested for color-blindness many times and I have not trace whatsoever of it, and I see no Arabic numerals in MAC's posted color patch. I think he's pulling our leg.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Now, watch MAC edit his post, and change the JPEG...

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I see no number either.

That's because there is NO number. :)

You're all just fine. Jim's right, I'm just pulling your leg.

I saw that color patch on a website and I stared at it for about 20 seconds and couldn't see a darn thing. I figured it had to be a joke because I have no problem reading color blind test patches. I though I would post it as a friendly joke.

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