adallak

Lifetime Supporter
  • Content Count

    4,424
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

adallak last won the day on July 11 2018

adallak had the most liked content!

About adallak

  • Rank
    CaddyInfo Enthusiast
  • Birthday 01/31/1959

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    MA

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    1995 Fleetwood Brougham 123.XXX miles
  • Engine
    5.7L OHV V8

Recent Profile Visitors

9,353 profile views
  1. The car is pretty clean, have not been neglected. The grounds look okay. Currently, a new ACDelco 6K642 is used.
  2. No glazing at all. I have a half a dozen belts.All look good. Three tensioners, six batteries, the second alternator in 10 years, 40,000 miles ( I do not drive as much as I used to do).
  3. Thanks, Mike. Will check the cables again. No squealing whatsoever, but steering is harder than it was when I bought the car. That makes me think something is wrong with tension/belt.
  4. My car has been killing batteries for years. Several tensioners, belts, alternators, batteries were replaced to no avail. Sure, I measured parasitic drain, voltage drop at cables, etc. I still suspect the belt is slipping. The steering has been harder than it was supposed to be as well. The effective length of the OEM belt is 1633 mm. I found a BANDO 6PK1630, ...1625, ...1620 belts, which claim effective length of 1630, 1625, 1620 mm. What difference in effective length would make the difference between nonslipping and slipping belt? Thank you.
  5. It could be rather wiring/connector issue than the TPS itself. You can test TPS with a $10 mutimeter for smooth operation. Just watch Ohms change while moving the lever of the TPS by hand.
  6. I recall my 4.9 having a very big crack on exhaust manifold right behind radiator. Now, I think it could be the reason for rough idle. But I never had a poor fuel economy. I think I might have an exhaust leak (invisible crack, bad gasket, etc.) which affects fuel economy so dramatically. I can go ahead and replace the passenger side exhaust manifold, gaskets, etc. But, even replacing oxygen sensors was not a fun work at all on this old girl, that's what makes me a bit reluctant...
  7. Yes I have replaced (perfectly good) plugs. And I check them often. They look good. Spark wires are new as well.
  8. Yes, cracked exhaust manifold is a possibility, but you will not know until you actually take it off... Another PITA job, just like removing oxygen sensors was. And chances are it will do nothing ,just like replacing oxygen sensors did.
  9. Thank you, Mike. Sure, two heads are better than one, especially when the second head is yours! I sent you a message.
  10. Thank you , Mike. I sent you a message. I know you will not let me sit and wait till things get better by themselves! LOL
  11. Yes, Mike... I am sure I have covered almost everything... well, some day the cause will expose itself, I hope so anyway. Thanks for trying to help me!
  12. Funny, the reply in that thread comes from me (HUF). I do not think I have any leaky injectors, otherwise the fuel pressure would not hold for some 30 minutes when I prime the system. Right? No black smoke, no fuel smell in exhaust either.
  13. Mike, ALL the subjects you brought up were addressed except for exhaust restriction. Most of replaced parts are ACDelco. As I said, this car never had a code. Climate control shows any trouble code if you know how to get them, so I check everything now and then. No check engine light ever. I also know that a sensor can be bad and it will take a while to show a code, so I have replaced a lot of things "just in case". I have the FSM, of course. The vacuum is around 20" Hg depending on a location. It is a bit low, but that's all I have got. Optispark is vented and it works perfectly. Coil, wires, plugs are new and fine. Fuel trims would be probably helpful, but I am tired spending more $$$ on this old girl. I am trying to find a success story from someone fixing the problem just like this thread shows.
  14. LT1 takes regular. No, it is OBD 1. Unfortunately, there are so many things , which could affect fuel economy (or intermittent lack of power) and finding them is a PITA if you do not have proper diagnostics tools. I have heard too many stories how people would take the car to a dealer and after spending $$$$$$ they would just sell the car. I do not want o go that rout.
  15. No power-train related codes whatsoever and I never had one... There were always driveabilty issues such as sudden lack of power, hesitation, etc, but fuel economy was decent for many years. I have noticed dramatic drop two years ago. Again, I have replaced every part , which could be responsible. Just wasted money and time, I guess. 10 MPG around the town is just way too much. or should I say too less.