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Rich last won the day on September 1 2015

Rich had the most liked content!

About Rich

  • Rank
    Regular (100+ posts)

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    1997 Eldorado T (Z) / 2014 SRX AWD
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Yonkers, New York
  1. Thanks for your opinions as they give me avenues to continue to explore if the problem persists. The line under the battery tray will be the next thing I will look into replacing. My emergency brake has been releasing sporadically for a few years now but I though it was the emergency brake diaphram. Since reinstalling the old check valve yesterday along with shortening the length of hose I first replaced, I took a shakedown cruise today to re-assess the HVAC performance. 84 degrees F with strong sun in NY today. I will make no claims at this time of having corrected the problem, but the
  2. I actually read what you just mentioned online somewhere. I couldn't get under the car myself due to clearance, but about a month ago I took my car to a shop (general automotive) and described my problem. They were nice enough to put my car on a lift and we all (three of us) walked under and looked at the accumulator with a flashlight without removing the apron. As you describe, what I read was that there was a section of vacuum line at the accumulator that is known to degrade. But our cursory examination didn't show any soft vacuum line, only the hard plastic line which appeared to be int
  3. Here is a synopsis: 1997 Eldorado. 137,000 miles. While driving with the A/C on, the cold air stops coming out of the A/C vents and defaults to the defroster vents. Manipulating the HVAC controls has no effect in correcting the problem. The head unit continues to indicate airflow from the face vents while the actual airflow is from defrost. The problem usually corrects itself within a few minutes and redirects to the face vents. This is obviously not a compressor problem as cold air is still being produced as I could feel a slight cold airflow from the side of the console where the carp
  4. Well, I didn't find the problem after all. The issue continued to arise from time to time. I went on to replace every soft piece of vacuum line I could put my hands on, even those that looked fine. I also replaced the HVAC check valve with a new A/C delco repacement. Still having the issue. If the problem lies somewhere behind the dashboard, I don't know what I can do. I certainly can't pull the dash off, and I can't ask the dealer to fix the problem as they will replace every part they can until tey find the problem. I can't afford that method of repair. I wish there was an automotive
  5. I think I found the problem. The main vacuum line runs from under the motor beauty cover on the passenger side to a check valve, then to a "T" fitting by the fire wall on the passenger side of the car. From the "T", one side runs through the firewall providing cabin vacuum, then toward the front of the car to the accumulator tank under the battery tray. One eight inch section of the vacuum line between the check valve and the "T" was completely degraded. When I handled it, it started to crumble. It was obviously still maintaining some vacuum, but its integrity was severely compromised. Th
  6. I finally got together with the guy at the body shop today and he replaced my mirror. He has experience, having replaced many and the old mirrir popped right off. He didn't even need a screwdriver, he just pulled it off. But it took him nearly a half hour to get the replacement on. Nothing like the youtube videos I watched. Alligning the two actuator shafts seemed to be the root of the problem. Anyway, I have a driver side view mirror again. Thanks to all for your advice.
  7. Thanks for the tips Jim. Regarding the mirror, my D/S outside mirror is permanently fogged. I already have another which I purchased on ebay that I need to have installed. Regarding the 1983 code, I had a new battery installed last November, 1,400 miles ago so I don't think it's the battery. That code was also set when I started this thread last July, four months prior to replacing the battery. I suppose this is beginning to look like a phantom electrical glitch.
  8. I cleared the codes a while ago and this morning the following codes were set: PZM B 0533H Fuel Sensor Open/Shorted To B+ PZM B 1552H Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error PZM B 1558H BCM EPROM Checksum Error PZM B 1983H Device Power Circuit Low MMM B2144H Left Front Mirror Vertical Position Sensor Circuit Low (Haven't yet replaced the mirror) These are the same codes that keep setting, fortunately all are "History codes". Not sure if any relate to HVAC functions. I had the blend door (actuator door) replaced twice, once on July 2, 2009 at 109,009 miles and once on September 27, 2010
  9. Well, today was a nice warm sunny day. Was driving around and after a few hours the A/C stopped coming out of the A/C vents. I was approaching a traffic light at the time and was rolling along at perhaps 10 MPH off throttle. The temp was set to 68 degrees at the time. When the problem occurred, the HVAC panel still indicated that air flow was coming from the footwell area and the main A/C vents, even though there was no air flow from the upper vents. Not once did this issue arise over the winter with warm or hot air. It only seems to happen with cool or cold air. Very strange. I sure h
  10. Long story short, we drove over there yesterday and the guy wasn't there. So I tried doing it myself with my son this morning. Of course, I can't get the mirror backing plate off the power drive unit. The mirror came off very easily as it immediately detached from its backing plate when I pulled on it. I wasn't expecting that. The adhesive holding these two parts together seems to have dried out and lost its adhesive properties. I'm afraid to be too aggressive in pulling on the backing plate for fear that I might damage or destroy the power drive unit, the housing, or something else. Al
  11. I told my self that I wouldn't do any cleaning up of the terminals until someone responded to my last post. Good thing! No emory cloth cleanup. I'm having the repair done next Tuesday, so I'll let you all know how it goes.
  12. I'll keep the tight wires in mind, as well as the even pressure required to snap the part in place. Hopefully, I'll be present while they're doing it, so I'll need to do my best not to hover and act like a pain in the a__ customer while they're working. I just received the replacement mirror in the mail this morning, but I'll need to wait for my friend's availability to ride over there with me. The two connectors for the heating wires look a bit corroded. Not rusty, just a bit grungy so I'll take some emory cloth to them to clean them up a bit. And the larger plug (auto dim function?) ha
  13. Fortunately, a friend of mine (big Cadillac fan) has been using a particular body shop for years and has developed a good relationship there. He was there today and mentioned my mirror issue and they told him that they've done many. They said I can just drive by and they'll take care of it. The owner told my friend that "it takes two minutes". I have already printed the instructions and diagram above and will bring it with me should they want to see them. I don't have the replacement mirror yet bu expect to have it by early next week. I'll let you all know how this turns out. Hopefully,
  14. Jim, you make a very valid point and have me reconsidering my options. But my concern is not only in damaging the mirror, which I understand I could replace for the cost of the dealer installation gone bad, but damage to the housing, or the backing plate and electric pivot assembly, or some other associated hardware. But you do have me thinking though. And I greatly appreciate your confidence in my ability which is clearly greater than that which I have in myself. Pondering...
  15. I don't think it's a difficult procedure but one that requires some technique in both the removal of the old glass without damaging the housing and associated components, and the installation of the new glass without shattering it. The dealer techs will have had experience in doing this which I have not. It's a gamble either way as not only might I break something if I attempted the repair myself, but so might the dealer personnel for whom I will be waiving liability. I wish I had more confidence in my ability but unfortunately I don't.
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