97 Deville will not start

[PAUL T]

Update: Spliced all the wires at the tank together and fuel pump will still not pump. I am getting power to the plug but pump will not kick on. Looks like a new pump is in my future.

[Cadillac Jim]

Are there any codes now? I would try a pressure gauge on the fuel line again before I dropped the tank.

[winterset]

I know it'll sound a little strange, but kick the tank a few times. - it sometimes gets a stuck fuel pump running again. If it does get it started, you know a new fuel pump is needed immediately. If it doesn't, it'll give your neighbors something to talk about!!

[PAUL T]

Are there any codes now? I would try a pressure gauge on the fuel line again before I dropped the tank.

I had the fuel pressure gauge on and it reads 0. I even unhooked the quick connect fuel line to the fuel filter and no gas came out at all when the switch was on. All fuses & relays check out also. I think I have eliminated everything. Fuel pump is going to have to wait until my business customers start paying me up. Financially I am in survivor mode. There is plenty of work but a lot of slow payers.

[adallak]

Are there any codes now? I would try a pressure gauge on the fuel line again before I dropped the tank.

I had the fuel pressure gauge on and it reads 0. I even unhooked the quick connect fuel line to the fuel filter and no gas came out at all when the switch was on. All fuses & relays check out also. I think I have eliminated everything. Fuel pump is going to have to wait until my business customers start paying me up. Financially I am in survivor mode. There is plenty of work but a lot of slow payers.

Recheck the polarity of the wires.

[BodybyFisher]

Are there any codes now? I would try a pressure gauge on the fuel line again before I dropped the tank.

I had the fuel pressure gauge on and it reads 0. I even unhooked the quick connect fuel line to the fuel filter and no gas came out at all when the switch was on. All fuses & relays check out also. I think I have eliminated everything. Fuel pump is going to have to wait until my business customers start paying me up. Financially I am in survivor mode. There is plenty of work but a lot of slow payers.

Recheck the polarity of the wires.

I was thinking the same thing, but I assume that Paul spliced the wires based on proper insulation color/stripes... but it is worth mentioning. Odd that the pump would be bad in addition to this wiring problem

[PAUL T]

Are there any codes now? I would try a pressure gauge on the fuel line again before I dropped the tank.

I had the fuel pressure gauge on and it reads 0. I even unhooked the quick connect fuel line to the fuel filter and no gas came out at all when the switch was on. All fuses & relays check out also. I think I have eliminated everything. Fuel pump is going to have to wait until my business customers start paying me up. Financially I am in survivor mode. There is plenty of work but a lot of slow payers.

Recheck the polarity of the wires.

I was thinking the same thing, but I assume that Paul spliced the wires based on proper insulation color/stripes... but it is worth mentioning. Odd that the pump would be bad in addition to this wiring problem

Sorry guys I have been away from the computer. I did make sure the wires were spliced correctly per color. I am not thrilled with the splices due to limited space and limited wire length. I may have to buy a new plug because the wires are too short to splice anymore. I used a light tester to check for power and the wire that kicks the pump on came on for a few seconds and went off after the key was turned on. So unless the ground to the plug is bad it should be throwing power to the pump. I will have to check my manual to see what each wire goes to and check the ground at the plug. I am really bummed out, I was hoping for an easy inexpensive fix. All my vehicles are down. 96 F-250 has a rusted out rear shackle bracket, 03 Excursion has a bad fuel pump, 97 Caddy is possible bad pump & 88 cutlass has rusted out tail pipe. Any money I put in my vehicles takes away from paying bills right now. We are driving the in-laws 04 Deville and it has issues now, which I will start another thread for. All this happened within the last couple of months. I am glad my office is in my home.

[Cadillac Jim]

The fuel pump is supposed to run for only a couple of seconds after the key is turned on. That's so a car will start after sitting for a long time. It won't run again until the oil pressure light goes out. Check the fuel pressure by putting a gauge on the fuel rail and repeatedly turning the key on and off until it won't go any higher. It should read 44 psi to 48 psi. After about 5 minutes, it may drop as much as 5 psi.

[PAUL T]

The fuel pump is supposed to run for only a couple of seconds after the key is turned on. That's so a car will start after sitting for a long time. It won't run again until the oil pressure light goes out. Check the fuel pressure by putting a gauge on the fuel rail and repeatedly turning the key on and off until it won't go any higher. It should read 44 psi to 48 psi. After about 5 minutes, it may drop as much as 5 psi.

The fuel pressure gauge is reading 0 no matter what I do. I even checked my in-law 04 Deville fuel pressure to see if the gauge was bad but there's was 44psi. I even unhooked the fuel line from the fuel filter and not a drop of gas came out. I am about out of options.

[KHE]

If you hear the pump run and there is no fuel pressure or fuel pumping out when the line is disconnected, that points to a bad fuel pump.

[PAUL T]

After testing the plug at the pump and found the pump was getting power but still not pumping I decided to get a new fuel pump. I ordered one from rockauto, it was a Delphi wholesaler closeout purchase for $119.79. The only problem is it only had a 30 day warranty instead of 12 months. When I get it in I will let you know how it goes. I hope it lasts more than 3 years unlike the last one. I hope the weather holds out so I can do it myself (no empty garage to do it in).

[Cadillac Jim]

My car was one of those 1997 models that had a loose fuel pump connector that eventually overheated and warped the plastic, gradually losing the connection to the fuel pump. After a few near-stalls, the dealer replaced it on warranty. This was Spring 1998 and my fuel pump has been trouble-free ever since.

[PAUL T]

I will check and see if that may have been the problem. I don't think the last time the pump was changed that the connector plug was changed. Thanks for the heads up.

[Cadillac Jim]

... I don't think the last time the pump was changed that the connector plug was changed. ...

I hate it when that happens.

[PAUL T]

97 DEVILLE UPDATE: I took the tank out and pulled the old pump out of it. I cleaned the old pump up and could not find any burnt wires or bad connections, so I hooked the pump up outside the tank and it started pumping with key on. That blew my bad pump theory. Anyhow, I decided to install the new pump but it started raining so I secured it in the tank and slid the tank under the car for now until I can get good weather to work on it again. I spent about 4 hours on it today.

When I went to put it up on ramps to work on it a few weeks back. We used a track endloader and chain to pull it backwards up on the ramps. I got in the car, turned the key on to put it in Neutral so it would roll up the ramps and I got out to survey everything, then my father-in-law started pulling it and I noticed that the drivers door was still open so I shut it. The car went up on the ramps and everything was fine until I started to get in the car and put it back in park. When I grabbed the handle it was locked. All the doors were locked and both sets of keys and fobs were in the car. I guessed the doors automatically locked when it was put in neutral. I was pissed. Luckily we had the hood unlatched and I removed the neutral terminal. I called the local chevy dealer and asked how much it would cost to have a key made from the VIN, when he said it would only be less than $5.00, I thanked the Lord, and picked it up a few hours later and all was well. The only problem was that it was getting too late to remove the tank so it just sat on the ramps for a few weeks until the weather broke again. I may get it running by spring.

[PAUL T]

97 Deville update: Finally got the fuel tank back in the Deville. It was not too hard just getting it positioned just right. The heat shield was in the way but I worked it in. So we are back in business for the caddy. Now I have to do the 03 Excursion fuel pump, 88 Cutlass Supreme Classic water pump, 96 F250 rear spring shackle, and the 92 Deville water pump & heater motor. I am getting there one step at a time. Thanks for all the support.

[PAUL T]

Update: Caddy is running good with the new fuel pump. I am getting 19-20 mpg's around town. Now I think she is ready for some new shocks. I can't complain @ 168600 miles and uses only 1 quart between changes. I really need to give her a good scrubbing inside & out when the weather warms up.

[joeb]

U had old pump out and it worked. U assumed pump was ok but now u were unsure of what was wrong. So u put new pump in. So old pump and new pump were both ok? But car starts now with new pump.

[PAUL T]

U had old pump out and it worked. U assumed pump was ok but now u were unsure of what was wrong. So u put new pump in. So old pump and new pump were both ok? But car starts now with new pump.

You got it right in a nut shell. Old pump did kick on outside the tank when I reconnected it to the harness. For some reason it would not work in the tank. It was getting power but was not running. New pump worked as it should when it was connected. I did have to splice in a new connection plug to the new pump. You are correct, I do not know what caused the old pump to fail in the tank unless it was a bad plug at the tank and by unplugging it and replugging it in later, it could have had a better connection.

[Cadillac Jim]

In the 1997 model year, a failure of the connector was common, and mine failed at about 30,000 miles and was replaced on warranty. Repair was the same, new connector plus fuel pump and its harness, which apparently is not splice-able because all the wires are inside the tank. The connector would gradually develop a high resistance, and eventually the fuel pump would stall and the car would stall too, sometimes in full cruise, usually starting right back up. They replaced the fuel pump because the connector usually melted out of shape by the time there were driveability issues.

[dbc2065]

WOW  GOING THROUGH SAME ISSUES WITH MY 97 B05333 CURRENT  I'm GOING TO CHECK PLUG AND UND PLUG TO SEE IF GOES HISTORY

[Cadillac Jim]

2 hours ago, dbc2065 said:

WOW  GOING THROUGH SAME ISSUES WITH MY 97 B05333 CURRENT  I'm GOING TO CHECK PLUG AND UND PLUG TO SEE IF GOES HISTORY

There are too many digits in your code; I'll assume that it is

B0533  Fuel Sensor Open/Shorted To B+

That could be just a bad connection somewhere between the tank and the PCM.  But, usually, it's a bad fuel level sensor, contact worn out and gone open.  Is your gas gauge pinned to Empty or Full?

You can read and reset the codes from the HVAC controls on a 1997; see link in my signature block.

[dbc2065]

Jim  yes B0533 stay current no start condition unplug harness from body going to fuel pump  no change still remained current my full gauge read full  but my tank isn't full no fuel pressure from rail service port either. Should i try hooking batter jump pack straight to harness going to fuel pump? if yes which wire ppl wire is sender weather good here in Fargo, ND trying to resolve this before we get bad weather coming soon. tried locating G102  had no luck checking for bad grounds. maybe ignition one relay?

 

thanks for your response

Edited November 3, 2020 by dbc2065

[Cadillac Jim]

The two most likely causes of a B0533 are a wiring problem and a worn-out fuel level sensor.  Unplugging the harness and plugging it back in, disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, resetting the codes from the A/C controls, all will have the same effect until the problem is fixed:  no change.  But this won't keep your car from starting.

What other codes do you have?  The codes most likely to cause a no-start condition are Pnnnn (powertrain) codes.

[winterset]

if the car is not starting, you should hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the key.  if you do not hear the fuel pump, under the hood on the drivers side is an access that contains the fuel pump relay, and the a/c relay.  they are the same and can be swapped to see if this fixes your fuel pump.