KHE Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 When I get some time... (if THAT ever happens)... I need to go to the local wrecking yard and get the four horn set from an older Fleetwood Brougham to put on my DTS. My last Fleetwood Brougham, had a set of horns that would make someone pay attention. If I remember right.... didn't you do something like that to YOURS? Jim, You only need to add two horns to get the Trumpet Horn but you need to determine what two notes are on your car. The Trumpet Horn uses notes A, C, D, & F. My '93 Fleetwood has the Trumpet Horn from the factory and I added the additional horns to both of my Sevilles - I love the sound of that horn - it is so distinctively Cadillac! It sucks that GM doesn't offer it anymore on their flagship line... Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 Jim, You only need to add two horns to get the Trumpet Horn but you need to determine what two notes are on your car. The Trumpet Horn uses notes A, C, D, & F. My '93 Fleetwood has the Trumpet Horn from the factory and I added the additional horns to both of my Sevilles - I love the sound of that horn - it is so distinctively Cadillac! It sucks that GM doesn't offer it anymore on their flagship line... Kevin, Thanks for the reply. I will save this one so I will know what to look for. You are so right... It sounds so CADILLAC. No other horn sounds like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 When I get some time... (if THAT ever happens)... I need to go to the local wrecking yard and get the four horn set from an older Fleetwood Brougham to put on my DTS. My last Fleetwood Brougham, had a set of horns that would make someone pay attention. If I remember right.... didn't you do something like that to YOURS? No I didnt I think Ranger did, I was looking in the scrap yards for horns for him. Mine are very loud, and have that classic Cadillac sound, but deep, I like the horns from my 66 better, it had a higher pitch. This car sounds like an OCEAN liner, Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catmendo Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 why, are you trying to fix something that ain't broke ??? Why don't we all drive around with HT-4100 engines then? Or on bias-ply tires? There's always room for improvement. The OE brake pad spec was developed over a decade ago. There's nothing wrong with it. But improvements in materials and manufacturing have led to improvements in performance and/or fewer or smaller compromises. There was nothing wrong with bias-ply tires either. At the time, that's just what we had. It took a while for radials to become prevalent. And I have no doubts that during those years it took for the industry to switch over to radial tire designs, there were a lot of folks sayin', "why are we fixing something that isn't broke; I'm sticking with my bias-ply tires." Everything is relative. Brake pad lining materials have changed a ton since they were first developed centuries ago, and they'll continue to change and improve as time goes on. We're just sitting here in a snapshot in time looking back to semi-metallic and saying, "gee, nothing was wrong with those, why change?" Well, the same could be said of asbestos-laiden linings, the same could be said of drum brakes, etc. Just because something worked when it was first designed, doesn't mean it can't be improved upon. If that wasn't the case, we'd all be driving Model Ts right now. how old are you jason ??? i PM-ed, the person that i respect here the most and told him, that i did not want to argued with someone that would not listen, to experience here, because they are a know it all rocket scientist, that chose to slam me, for being an old fart that was still driving model T's ... ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- this is, from the post, that i PMed to one the men, that i respect here ... "these brake improvement guys are making my head hurt ... IE: they grab so much better ??? so what guys ... you are driving a ABS car ... maybe, in a older car it might be helpful but wake up guys, you have ABS and it has more control of your brakes, than your fancy pads and rotors ... and as for the argument they last so much longer ... wow, great i think i will run out and spend a couple of hundred of dollars so that i don't have to spend 30 minutes changing my pads after 30k miles ... if these guys were driving race cars, then i would be all ears but as is ... they are thinking too hard and i am not going to argue with them ... what do you think of this jason guy, that thinks, he is smarter than me, when it comes to cars ??? i think that he opened his mouth and put his foot in it, in his reply to me " ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- and again, how old are you jason ??? i am 51 years old and you are telling me, that i am stupid and are probably still driving "with bias-ply tires in a model-T" ??? i was buying pirelli , dunlop and Micheline tires before you were born probably , and guess what, i was dealing with cars that had 4 wheel disc brakes and independent suspension before you got out of kinder garden ... that is that just my guess, but, i don't think, that i am very far from wrong ... can you take a jag. XKE all the way down and put it back together ??? and i mean everything every nut and bolt, gears etc. ??? are you a young-un with no respect for your elders ??? sorry, i got to go and work on my model-T ... NP give me a break !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 Break it up, break it up. Listen I know both you guys, I have spoken to you both and you are both nice guys. Lets all keep in mind that opinions are like a-holes everyone has one, but what I like about this forum is the diversity of ideas. When I was working at Chase Manhattan in the early 80s they had us practice (as a group) "Brainstorming". I was pretty intregued by it as I was always surprised at the different solutions based on a persons position and experience. Some solutions were so wacko and off the wall that you would think to yourself, man that is a wacko answer, but then I realized after doing this Brainstorming, that even MY answers were sometimes considered wacko, hmmm. And as a matter of fact, MANY of my answers here are in fact WACKO... because of my bias, my experience or my MOOD at that very moment. I don't want to appear to be the kettle calling the pot black here, cause lord knows, I lose it, am embarrised by it, even threaten to RETIRE, and then reconcile and move forward. Basically I am a childish bag of wind that blows up once in a while, I know the both of you and you are both good guys. True story, we had a Cadillac meet last year, and I sat next to a member who said to me, I pictured you as an old miserable man... wow, that hit home. And I thought, hmm, I am sure I do.. Some call it passion, others call it an affiction or obsession. Then I thought about it, and remembered that I had had a dog fight with him a year before that, we both felt we were right and it was not pretty. I did applogize if I recall and I felt badly. We all have different experiences and this mode of communicating is so lacking. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 Now, about those brakes.... There was a post earlier in this thread that quoted some literature from one manufacturer that said that their metallic pads were better for towing but that their ceramic pads were longer lasting and had very much the same stopping power. This was because the pads were both ceramic, but that the "ceramic" pads were about 15% metal, but the "metallic" pads were about 30% metal and conducted heat better. It seems to me that whether a pad is considered ceramic or metallic depends on what the manufacturer decides. All of them are ceramic, and all of them contain 15% or more metal. It seems to me that the nomenclature is pretty much what the manufacturer wants to put on the box. Thus what we should be looking for is percentage of metal, dusting and life from experience of those using a particular pad, and fading properties. In the days of brake linings, brass wires were included in premium brake linings to pass the heat from the friction surface to the brake shoes. Some manufacturers, and even the chain Brake-O advertised this. I don't think that brass is used with ceramic pads, or any disk brakes nowadays, though. Slotted rotors are machined to give better cooling by putting more air through the disks, and letting the pads see some air too, even while braking is still happening, such as down a long slope down a mountain. Some report better braking and fade performance after switching to slotted rotors, but the pads were changed at the same time and I'm not sure that the pads didn't make all the difference and the slots none of the difference, or vice versa, or where in between might be the truth. And, nowhere do we have anything like a really good test of fading with our posts here, so far. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 Now, about those brakes.... There was a post earlier in this thread that quoted some literature from one manufacturer that said that their metallic pads were better for towing but that their ceramic pads were longer lasting and had very much the same stopping power. This was because the pads were both ceramic, but that the "ceramic" pads were about 15% metal, but the "metallic" pads were about 30% metal and conducted heat better. It seems to me that whether a pad is considered ceramic or metallic depends on what the manufacturer decides. All of them are ceramic, and all of them contain 15% or more metal. It seems to me that the nomenclature is pretty much what the manufacturer wants to put on the box. Thus what we should be looking for is percentage of metal, dusting and life from experience of those using a particular pad, and fading properties. In the days of brake linings, brass wires were included in premium brake linings to pass the heat from the friction surface to the brake shoes. Some manufacturers, and even the chain Brake-O advertised this. I don't think that brass is used with ceramic pads, or any disk brakes nowadays, though. Slotted rotors are machined to give better cooling by putting more air through the disks, and letting the pads see some air too, even while braking is still happening, such as down a long slope down a mountain. Some report better braking and fade performance after switching to slotted rotors, but the pads were changed at the same time and I'm not sure that the pads didn't make all the difference and the slots none of the difference, or vice versa, or where in between might be the truth. And, nowhere do we have anything like a really good test of fading with our posts here, so far. Good transition Jim. Interesting, I would love to know the composition of my pads, dusting like hell and grabby, and haul the car down hard, what do you think?, more metallic? Interestly they seem to resist heat good because I have NO pulsing, which I would think I would get given the symptoms.. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 I am going to ask a QUESTION and then throw in a couple of OPINIONS about brake fade. Has anyone here ACTUALLY EXPERIENCED real brake FADE in your Cadillac in the last 10 or 15 years? I am talking about where the brakes and rotors are so hot, that when you push the pedal REALLY REALLY HARD.... the car will not stop fairly quickly. The brake pedal is HARD AS A ROCK, there is no modulation and it feels like you are stepping on a BRICK instead of a brake pedal. You can have both feet on the brake pedal ... and it STILL won't STOP. This is known as a VERY BAD THING. That is my definition of SEVERE BRAKE FADE. Seems like some people are getting a little bent out of shape over this. We all read, but sometimes the written word can be interpreted differently by different people, and someone can mis-underatand what the other is trying to say. It is easy to read more into a post than was intended. I believe that you should have the BEST BRAKES on your car that you can get.... within a reasonable budget constraint. That makes it safer for ME when I am driving on the same road as YOU. When it comes time to replace my brakes, I will do some research and I will get the best ones I can afford at that time. Thats one reason I have enjoyed this discussion and am asking questions. Anyone could, If they wanted to, (and had the extra money ).... spend a TON of money on slotted and cross drilled rotors and super duper pads, made especially for HARD, FAST driving and NEVER EVER experiance any brake fade. No matter HOW HARD you drove the car. That said, I have not experienced REAL brake fade in the last 15 years. I have had some SLIGHT fade a time or two and I have been known to drive pretty aggressivly in the mountains. It is fun to drive in deep into a corner, DOWNSHIFT a gear or two, BRAKE HARD and then accelerate FULL THROTTLE, OUT of the corner. When on a trip to the Rocky Mountains, usually a couple of times a year... Darling Wife will let me do that .... every once in a while.... for a few miles. Then I get THE LOOK (and most of you know what THE LOOK is) and I back it down to a more sane way of driving. But it is fun while it lasts. In my previous Cadillac, I would start to get a little fade after five miles or so of very aggresive driving like that. Nothing that I couldn't control, but that would tell me that it was time to back off and drive more NORMAL. Give the brakes time to cool a little bit. (and it saved me from getting THE LOOK ) In THIS Cadillac, I have yet to ever have any brake fade at all. So far. In my old '55 Ford... you would start to get fade after a couple of quick stops from 60mph. The pedal would start to get spongy. The next stop it would be HARD and it took forever to actually SIOP. My 1970 Duster 340... with the (at that time) high performance brakes.... would start to fade after a few hard applications also. If you had to STOP FAST from 100 or so, a couple of times... they were pretty much useless for the next 10 or 15 minutes (or longer)... till they cooled a little bit. But with all that said.... I am very curious if anyone has ACTUALLY HAD an instance of real BRAKE FADE inthe last few years and under what conditions. Also, (if you know) what kind of brakes you had on the car and how many miles were on them. Ceramic? Metallic? Semi-Metallic? Organic? Inquiring minds want to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 Now, about those brakes.... In the days of brake linings, brass wires were included in premium brake linings to pass the heat from the friction surface to the brake shoes. Some manufacturers, and even the chain Brake-O advertised this. I don't think that brass is used with ceramic pads, or any disk brakes nowadays, though. Jim, I remember the old brake linings and pads with the metel in them. Cheap ones had no metal. Better ones usually had a little aluminum in them. GOOD ONES had the brass. The more expensive they were.... the more brass they had. The more brass thay had, the less they faded. I am generalizing, but you know what I mean. The brass, in addition to being a heat sink for the friction generated heat, probably dissipated the heat from the linings to the air a lot better than the pads without any metal content. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonA Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 and again, how old are you jason ??? i am 51 years old and you are telling me, that i am stupid and are probably still driving "with bias-ply tires in a model-T" ??? Well, I never said you were stupid and I never said you drove a Model T. I would encourage you to re-read my post. My post was in reply to your statement, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." Please re-read what I said...I said that even though something may not be "broken", doesn't mean there's no room for improvement. Nothing about bias-ply tires was "broken". But their performance was substantially improved upon by radial tire designs. Heck, even radial tires from 10 years ago pale to what we have today. The same can be said of just about EVERYTHING...especially motor oil. The advancements made in the last few decades in the lubrication industry are incredible. Nowhere in my post did I disrespect you. Nowhere in my post did I say you were stupid, that you were an "old fart", that you drove on bias-ply tires, or that you drove a Model T. If that's what you choose to get out of what I said, that's your business. I respect your opinion. And I even acknowledged it when I said, "The OE brake pad spec was developed over a decade ago. There's nothing wrong with it." I simply said that over 10 years, stuff improves. I didn't say you were wrong for using it; I just gave my reasons for using a newer technology. I'm member #4. I've been here forever. There's a lot of history in my posts that you can read. I'd never call anyone stupid or otherwise disrepect them. I'm just here to help and to learn; I hope you are too. Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond) "When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonA Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- this is, from the post, that i PMed to one the men, that i respect here ... "these brake improvement guys are making my head hurt ... IE: they grab so much better ??? so what guys ... you are driving a ABS car ... maybe, in a older car it might be helpful but wake up guys, you have ABS and it has more control of your brakes, than your fancy pads and rotors ... and as for the argument they last so much longer ... wow, great i think i will run out and spend a couple of hundred of dollars so that i don't have to spend 30 minutes changing my pads after 30k miles ... if these guys were driving race cars, then i would be all ears but as is ... they are thinking too hard and i am not going to argue with them ... what do you think of this jason guy, that thinks, he is smarter than me, when it comes to cars ??? i think that he opened his mouth and put his foot in it, in his reply to me " ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- By the way, I didn't write that. If you're thinking I wrote that, you must have me confused with someone else. You're right -- that is a disrepectful tone, and I'd never write something like that on here. Sorry if there was any confusion. Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond) "When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaghost87 Posted June 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2008 the wear sensonrs on the pads... is that something you just clip onto the new pads or do you have to buy a new sensor each time you replace the pads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jking220 Posted June 9, 2008 Report Share Posted June 9, 2008 the wear sensonrs on the pads... is that something you just clip onto the new pads or do you have to buy a new sensor each time you replace the pads? You have to get a new set of sensors each time, theyre like $15 each. They fit into the new pads (oem pads atleast). You can buy just the sensors or you can get them with the "brake kit". Ive got a spare set from my last brake change. Jonah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaghost87 Posted June 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2008 the wear sensonrs on the pads... is that something you just clip onto the new pads or do you have to buy a new sensor each time you replace the pads? You have to get a new set of sensors each time, theyre like $15 each. They fit into the new pads (oem pads atleast). You can buy just the sensors or you can get them with the "brake kit". Ive got a spare set from my last brake change. is your brake kit OEM? if so where did you get it? i saw on rockautoparts.com that there is one sensor for both wheels?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jking220 Posted June 9, 2008 Report Share Posted June 9, 2008 is your brake kit OEM? if so where did you get it? i saw on rockautoparts.com that there is one sensor for both wheels?? Yes it is OEM, it comes with the pads, new "slider plates", a packet of sil-glyde, and two sensors. I got mine from GMPartsDirect.com, I think it was around $60 shipped. I can post the part number and price after work when Im on my home comp. Jonah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaghost87 Posted June 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2008 is your brake kit OEM? if so where did you get it? i saw on rockautoparts.com that there is one sensor for both wheels?? Yes it is OEM, it comes with the pads, new "slider plates", a packet of sil-glyde, and two sensors. I got mine from GMPartsDirect.com, I think it was around $60 shipped. I can post the part number and price after work when Im on my home comp. could you please.. thanks. i need new pads and iam going to go with the OEM pads. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaghost87 Posted June 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2008 off the topic, but how often do you guys use your coolant supplament tablets? how where do you get yours from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted June 9, 2008 Report Share Posted June 9, 2008 The brake sensors were on 1998 and later model years. My 1997 doesn't have them. I think that if a brake pad is such that they get grabby when hot, they are not well formulated for hard use, but whether the formulation would work better with less metal is a shot in the dark. My practical side tells me to simply say that this particular brand and type of brake pad is not well suited to the car and driving that elicits grabbing. No, I have not experienced severe brake fade since I went to Cermetallic linings in my 1959 Chevrolet. Every car since has had disk brakes except the 1964 Chevrolet station wagon that followed it, and we traded brakes between the 1959 and the 1964 before we sold the 1959, so I kept the Cereametallic brakes. I have never had significant brake fade in my 1997 ETC, and I have subjected them to some pretty severe use. One thing that did happen from time to time with the factory pads was that I would get pulsation, which would be fixed by resurfacing the front rotors. This happened several times. My theory is that this happened when I parked the car with the brakes hot, and the pads left a print on the rotors. From there, it would get worse until I was forced to get it fixed. I haven't had occasion to give my new Bendix pads severe use. When I do, if there is anything to report, you will see it on Caddyinfo. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catmendo Posted June 10, 2008 Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 off the topic, but how often do you guys use your coolant supplement tablets? how where do you get yours from? most places have the tabs, like wally world (wal-mart) you want the barrs leak one which are purported to be the same as the delco ones .... most folks here say use them every two years while changing out your anti- freeze and to be religious about it ... and it is a good rule of thumb to do it upon buying a used cat ... do a google on barrs leak and you can see what you are looking for ... you do know, that you put them in the bottom radiator hose and i think i have seen where you are suppose to crush them up .... i think that you use 3 out of the 6 that come in the packet and i have seen BBF say use all 6 if you think it is the first time ... is that i picture of you cat if so sweet and i am so jealous ... sorry about the misspelling here guys and i will edit it when i get home and can use my spell check ... Dana now that you are one of the gang have you checked out the edit feature ... it is so cool and it makes me look smarter than i am ... i bet i used it a dozen times this morning alone ... i am, a fairly new supporter here and i am still trying to figure out what all i can do now ... and if you find other cool stuff that you can do here now then please give me a heads up ... Lane Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaghost87 Posted June 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 off the topic, but how often do you guys use your coolant supplament tablets? how where do you get yours from? most places have the tabs, like wally world (wal-mart) you want the barrs leak one which are purported to be the same as the delco ones .... most folks here say use them every two years while changing out your anti- freeze and to be religous about it ... and it is a good rule of thumb to do it upon buying a used cat ... do a google on barrs leak and you can see what you are looking for ... you do know, that you put them in the bottom radiator hose and i think i have seen where you are suppose to crush them up .... i think that you use 3 out of the 6 that come in the packet and i have seen BBF say use all 6 if you think it is the first time ... is that i picture of you cat if so sweet and i am so jelious ... sorry about the misspelling here guys and i will edit it when i get home and can use my spell check ... Dana now that you are one of the gang have you checked out the edit feature ... it is so cool and it makes me look smarter than i am ... i bet i used it a dozen times this morning alone ... i am, a fairly new supporter here and i am still trying to figure out what all i can do now ... and if you find other cool stuff that you can do here now then please give me a heads up ... Lane thanks fro the tips on the pellets... wen u say cat, if you mean the 09 CTS-V... thats it i wish it was mines... im looking into one and thinking about trying to seriously getting one next winter. couldnt say it better SWEET!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catmendo Posted June 10, 2008 Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 when i say cat ... i mean cadillac ... and mine, that i have owned , always were big, so if i refer to them as a fat cats ... and, when i see them there skinny cats, i start to drool ... i want a skinny cat, with a N*(northstar motor) !!! and, i refuse to buy a new car, because as soon as you drive it off the lot, the value drops 10k in my opinion ... don't get me wrong, i can afford to, but it seems silly to me, to waste money, when i think i know how the game is played ... since the 2008 models, appear to be the best on the market rating wise, i may be buying one in a year or two ... but, for the moment, i love my fat cat ... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dana, you posted this ... "thanks fro the tips on the pellets" check out the edit feature supporter, and i tell you no lie, when i say that i have used it a dozen time today ... cool techie stuff ... once again bro, welcome to the show ... cat men do ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wotmode Posted June 10, 2008 Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 I am going to ask a QUESTION and then throw in a couple of OPINIONS about brake fade. Has anyone here ACTUALLY EXPERIENCED real brake FADE in your Cadillac in the last 10 or 15 years? I am talking about where the brakes and rotors are so hot, that when you push the pedal REALLY REALLY HARD.... the car will not stop fairly quickly. The brake pedal is HARD AS A ROCK, there is no modulation and it feels like you are stepping on a BRICK instead of a brake pedal. You can have both feet on the brake pedal ... and it STILL won't STOP. This is known as a VERY BAD THING. That is my definition of SEVERE BRAKE FADE. Seems like some people are getting a little bent out of shape over this. We all read, but sometimes the written word can be interpreted differently by different people, and someone can misunderstand what the other is trying to say. It is easy to read more into a post than was intended. I believe that you should have the BEST BRAKES on your car that you can get.... within a reasonable budget constraint. That makes it safer for ME when I am driving on the same road as YOU. When it comes time to replace my brakes, I will do some research and I will get the best ones I can afford at that time. That's one reason I have enjoyed this discussion and am asking questions. Anyone could, If they wanted to, (and had the extra money ).... spend a TON of money on slotted and cross drilled rotors and super duper pads, made especially for HARD, FAST driving and NEVER EVER experience any brake fade. No matter HOW HARD you drove the car. That said, I have not experienced REAL brake fade in the last 15 years. I have had some SLIGHT fade a time or two and I have been known to drive pretty aggressively in the mountains. It is fun to drive in deep into a corner, DOWNSHIFT a gear or two, BRAKE HARD and then accelerate FULL THROTTLE, OUT of the corner. When on a trip to the Rocky Mountains, usually a couple of times a year... Darling Wife will let me do that .... every once in a while.... for a few miles. Then I get THE LOOK (and most of you know what THE LOOK is) and I back it down to a more sane way of driving. But it is fun while it lasts. In my previous Cadillac, I would start to get a little fade after five miles or so of very aggressive driving like that. Nothing that I couldn't control, but that would tell me that it was time to back off and drive more NORMAL. Give the brakes time to cool a little bit. (and it saved me from getting THE LOOK ) In THIS Cadillac, I have yet to ever have any brake fade at all. So far. In my old '55 Ford... you would start to get fade after a couple of quick stops from 60mph. The pedal would start to get spongy. The next stop it would be HARD and it took forever to actually SIOP. My 1970 Duster 340... with the (at that time) high performance brakes.... would start to fade after a few hard applications also. If you had to STOP FAST from 100 or so, a couple of times... they were pretty much useless for the next 10 or 15 minutes (or longer)... till they cooled a little bit. But with all that said.... I am very curious if anyone has ACTUALLY HAD an instance of real BRAKE FADE in the last few years and under what conditions. Also, (if you know) what kind of brakes you had on the car and how many miles were on them. Ceramic? Metallic? Semi-Metallic? Organic? Inquiring minds want to know. I have experienced "sever brake fade" in my '95 STS. It was with OE pads and rotors that had about 40% pad life remaining. The condition involved three back to back drags from 60mph to 130mph with hard braking between.(I was showing a mid 90's mustang and a ricer what N* was all about) After the third run, I needed to slow for an exit. To my surprise, the pedal was brick hard and the car had the sensation of coasting. I eventually had both feet on the pedal and both hands on the violently shaking steering wheel(rotors got very warped, but trued after cooling down). I released my bowels as I passed the exit. Not trying to be pissy by quoting you, but it is the best description for what happens. I have since replaced pads and rotors, front and rear with cheap rotors and premium semi-metallic pads from Raybestos. I have never worked it that hard again, but in normal to semi aggressive driving, the new stuff feels much better. It still won't activate ABS on good traction surface at 100mph. Bottom line --- OE will fade if pushed. Improvement can be found in aftermarket. If driven in a law abiding fashion, you probably won't notice the difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wotmode Posted June 10, 2008 Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 For you guys into the big sounding horns, check out hornblasters.com Watch some of the sample videos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaghost87 Posted June 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 when i say cat ... i mean cadillac ... and mine, that i have owned , always were big, so if i refer to them as a fat cats ... and, when i see them there skinny cats, i start to drool ... i want a skinny cat, with a N*(northstar motor) !!! and, i refuse to buy a new car, because as soon as you drive it off the lot, the value drops 10k in my opinion ... don't get me wrong, i can afford to, but it seems silly to me, to waste money, when i think i know how the game is played ... since the 2008 models, appear to be the best on the market rating wise, i may be buying one in a year or two ... but, for the moment, i love my fat cat ... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dana, you posted this ... "thanks fro the tips on the pellets" check out the edit feature supporter, and i tell you no lie, when i say that i have used it a dozen time today ... cool techie stuff ... once again bro, welcome to the show ... cat men do ... where is that feature? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catmendo Posted June 10, 2008 Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 once again bro, welcome to the show ... cat men do ... where is that feature? look at the bottom of anything that you post and you will see edit, click on it and you get the chose of full edit and quick edit ... i always use the quick one ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.