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jking220

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Everything posted by jking220

  1. I remember spending some time cleaning those holes out as well.... I only had to soak them with brake parts cleaner a few times and wipe out with a rag on the end of a screwdriver, but it was pretty nasty down in there. Glad the fix was that easy.
  2. I had hanging up front calipers, though it doesnt sound like mine were as bad as yours, but replacing the rubber bushings and new grease (OEM) seemed to have fixed the problem.
  3. I remember reading about this happening to someone recently, either here or the other site. I think you just need to pull on it really hard. I would attach it (very securely, tow strap or chain) to something not likely to move (pole?) and try backing up a little. Be careful, if your strap/chain breaks, it will recoil and take out the hood/windshield.
  4. Makes sense once you think about how polarization works.... Thanks for the clarification Jim... I guess the clear lenses just block UV.
  5. My uncle bought me a nice pair of sunglasses for graduation... they came with a pair of clear lenses... the glasses arent cheap though. They are made by Native, mine are the nano 2. REI has them pretty cheap, I might buy a pair with the gray lenses, mine have the blue/reflex, and replacement lenses run about 60 a pair, so for 70 I can get a whole new pair. http://www.rei.com/product/783349?preferre...r:referralID=NA I did scratch my blue lenses when they fell off my head while riding my bike, but they fell right on the face on concrete, so I expected them to be scratched. I dont notice the scratches from the inside, but I would like to buy a pair to use solely for driving. ps... I see the pair at that link does not have the clear lenses, but I know they make them because mine has them... I will check when I get home to make sure the clear lenses are polarized, but I think they are.
  6. Are you trying to remove just the emblem or the whole locking mechanism? Just the emblem I bought a black and chrome one, and do not know how to remove it. I have the assembly in my basement still, I'll check it out when I get home.
  7. Are you trying to remove just the emblem or the whole locking mechanism?
  8. I think mine came from Autozone/Advance... but a quick google search only shows sears as a local type dealer... might think about ordering it online. http://www.google.com/products?q=3+jaw+fil...=1&ct=title PS... Napa may have one too... make sure it is the kind that clamps down on the filter as you turn the drive CCW... some I see online look like they have a manual size adjustment. here is one... not exactly sure, but I think this is a napa store http://store.vapnapa.com/bk7759018.html
  9. Like this? http://www.classic-car-magazine.co.uk/arti...lter_wrench.jpg I've had problems having enough room to use those. I'm a big fan of the 3-jaw type. It fits alot of sizes, goes on from the end, only $5, and I've never had a filter it couldnt take off, it may have crushed it, but it came off. Theres a pic here of the jaw type, http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/y...1_1912_45369267 (Sorry, I cant embed the picture right on my work computer.)
  10. NO As my counterpart explained directly in two letter form, the motor is shot. The block is three pieces of aluminum. These motors are notorious for stripping head bolts. Which, therefore comma leads to ala cream dele northstar (blown head gasket). If you read the manual on both generations they go through many safety characteristics before giving up the ghost. Shutting down the A/C , going in to power limp mode, specific cylinders cooling the heads and block, rpm default mode etc. After all that there is no saving it. Put it on ebay for a nostalgic boat anchor. What does this mean? "As my counterpart explained directly in two letter form, the motor is shot." Are you referring to STSS's response of NO? He was saying there is NO QUICK FIX. There IS however a FIX and it CAN be repaired. I missed your post earlier as I was confused by your COUNTERPART statement...and ignored your post. Please don't spew out DISINFORMATION/MISINFORMATION on this board. I definately dont think a blown HG ruins a N*... If my HG goes, I will gladly sert/stud the block. I just drove 527 miles in the driving snow, and I averaged 68 MPH, and I had not one problem with the car... not bad for an 8 year old car... plus I feel decent after getting out of the car. I am trying to get in the situation that I have a place to do a HG at my house so I can get a nice, cheap caddy and do a head job.
  11. I use Neverdull wrapped around a polishing pad on my dremel. Use a low speed and some care and it takes alot of the labor out of the process. It takes some practice to get the neverdull to stay on the polishing pad, of course, you can always just use a polishing compound on the polishing pad if you would rather.
  12. My STS will hit 81 before it hits third if youve got it punched. I try to let off at about 78 or so to keep it from shifting to third when Im WOT. The decel is nowhere near as strong if you let it shift to third and then back to second, it waits quite a while till it will downshift, Ill have to look at the speed before downshift next time I drive it.
  13. I agree that studs are much more "bullet-proof" than bolts, but what engineering has gone into these studs? Is the geometry copied directly from the factory bolts? Is the material/heat treat the same? These are "turn to torque" bolts if Im not mistaken, so the ability of the bolt to stretch the right amount means everything about clamping force, and the ability to keep that clamping force over a wide range of pre-load forces (ie different temperatures with different materials). I dont know that I would be as worried about pulling a bolt after the repair as I might be about hurting something else due to too stiff of a joint. JMO.
  14. I got some 12v/35ma bulbs from RS that I plan to use to replace my wheel lights. People on the other forum found these to be closer to the correct brightness. I think the part number may be the same.
  15. I dont know about this, but it made me think, what if you just unplugged the shocks? or maybe pull a fuse? I know it will throw codes, but maybe just for a short drive?
  16. When I was looking for my 01 STS I drove 2 that had passive replacement shocks, and I hated them. They made the car feel like a "boat", IMHO. Dont get me wrong, it was nowhere as boaty as a deville, but it couldnt turn like an STS with active shocks could. I also noticed it when I was braking or accelerating, much more car movement. I felt it made the car feel sluggish as it was not as responsive. I should add that I would prefer my active shocks to be even stiffer. I wanted the F55 suspension, but couldnt find it in my price range. I would suggest going and test driving some SLS's and seeing how you like the suspension on that. Ive driven 3 SLS's in my life, and I think it compared to that pretty well.
  17. If you dont have any oil on the ground where you park, dont worry about the seal. These motors get dirty, every motor does. If its not leaking fast enough to drip, then thats not why you're using oil. You likely have carbon buildup because the car has been babied around its whole life. It needs to be driven like you were 16 again.
  18. You definitely do not have a blown headgasket. Have you tried to check the codes? Your problems may be very easy to solve. Do you have oil puddling where you park? If not, do a search on this site for the "WOT procedure" and "oil consumption". You will find alot of information that may help slow down your oil use to a level that you can live with. Its alot cheaper and easier to add oil every once in a while rather than pull the engine to do case seals. I dont know very much about the idle problem as I havent had to deal with that, but I'm sure others who have had issues will chime in. If you check your codes, it may point you to the exact problem. If you cant find the instructions to check the codes on this site, I will post a link when I get home, my work computer wont let me post links.
  19. My GF took the STS to get an alignment today. I had replaced tie rod ends, and just got new tires, so I figured it was in need. She got a print out along with the bill when she was leaving (only took about 30 mins, seemed short to me) and it appears they only adjusted the toe at all 4 corners. The caster on the left front and the camber on both rears remain out of the specified range. A copy of the print out is below. Should they have been able to adjust these into spec? It was four wheel thrust angle alignment. I thought everything was adjustable front and rear on this car. I know the thrust angle is in spec, but it seems the caster and camber should have been adjusted for 60 bucks. Just thought I would ask before I called the guy tomorrow, dont want to make an a$$ of myself. Thanks for any help guys
  20. BTW, Welcome aboard. My work computer wont let me post any of the smiley faces, but Im sure someone else will give you the welcome smiley.
  21. Info on reading the codes can be found here ... http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html What the codes mean can be found here ... http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd2.html I think 96 was the first year for ODB 2 codes.... if not, ODB 1 codes can be found here ... http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd1.html Your problem could be as simple as a worn out key, but you wont know for sure until you check your codes. Do you get any messages on the DIC when it wont start? (Like starter disabled?)
  22. That thing looks so BAD*SS! I wonder how much it weighs. The back view is killer.
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