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Ceramic vs. Semi Metalic ????


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If asbestos had not been proven to be a carcinogen, banned, etc., I would bet that today's brake linings would still be made with asbestos. It was cheap, and had excellent heat resistance.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Ill keep using OEM thank you... no problems

once again, i must agree with BBF, dang-it ...

Lane

You sound reluctant to agree with me, :lol:

Anyway, the guru used to say SURE its OK to use after market pads, but now, YOU are doing the testing and validation. That is a VERY important statement that I have only recently truely understood. Why? Because the last two sets of FRONT pads that I have had on my car were aftermarket pads, the first set CRACKED up badly and this set, will put you through the windshield, they are grabby, squeek, and they make my wheels VERY VERY dirty. They are lifetime pads from either Napa or Autozone.

So my testing has uncovered

1) they are grabby

2) they squeek

3) they ruin my wheels with dirt

4) since the are lifetime, and probably wear good, are they destroying my rotors?

So in this case I am not validating them, as they failed MY testing.

The point is, with GM pads, THEY do the testing and validation, and I do not end up with problems..

So yes, use ANY pads you want, but be prepared for surprises that you would NOT get with OEM

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Because the last two sets of FRONT pads that I have had on my car were aftermarket pads, the first set CRACKED up badly and this set, will put you through the windshield, they are grabby, squeek, and they make my wheels VERY VERY dirty. They are lifetime pads from either Napa or Autozone.

BBF, what type (material) of pads were those? They sound like they were either really bad semi-metallic pads (from the amount of dust produced) or got contaminated with the anti-corrosion coating on a new rotor (I've had that happen once).

Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond)

"When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?"

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Because the last two sets of FRONT pads that I have had on my car were aftermarket pads, the first set CRACKED up badly and this set, will put you through the windshield, they are grabby, squeek, and they make my wheels VERY VERY dirty. They are lifetime pads from either Napa or Autozone.

BBF, what type (material) of pads were those? They sound like they were either really bad semi-metallic pads (from the amount of dust produced) or got contaminated with the anti-corrosion coating on a new rotor (I've had that happen once).

Jason, they were semi-metallic, they were chamfered, they looked high quality, had integral anti-squeel material attached, and they came with a lifetime warranty. I had my rotors turned with a non directional pattern, and as soon as I put them on, they were grabby and created dirt, ill post a photo of my front wheel later they are BLACK, and I cleaned the H out of them last week with wheel cleaner, brushes and a pressure washer that I rented for a deck...I also cleaned and greased the sliders.

Today BLACK...

I am going to do a major brake job soon

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Because the last two sets of FRONT pads that I have had on my car were aftermarket pads, the first set CRACKED up badly and this set, will put you through the windshield, they are grabby, squeek, and they make my wheels VERY VERY dirty. They are lifetime pads from either Napa or Autozone.

BBF, what type (material) of pads were those? They sound like they were either really bad semi-metallic pads (from the amount of dust produced) or got contaminated with the anti-corrosion coating on a new rotor (I've had that happen once).

Jason, they were semi-metallic, they were chamfered, they looked high quality, had integral anti-squeel material attached, and they came with a lifetime warranty. I had my rotors turned with a non directional pattern, and as soon as I put them on, they were grabby and created dirt, ill post a photo of my front wheel later they are BLACK, and I cleaned the H out of them last week with wheel cleaner, brushes and a pressure washer that I rented for a deck...I also cleaned and greased the sliders.

Today BLACK...

I am going to do a major brake job soon

where do you get your OEM pads?

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Because the last two sets of FRONT pads that I have had on my car were aftermarket pads, the first set CRACKED up badly and this set, will put you through the windshield, they are grabby, squeek, and they make my wheels VERY VERY dirty. They are lifetime pads from either Napa or Autozone.

BBF, what type (material) of pads were those? They sound like they were either really bad semi-metallic pads (from the amount of dust produced) or got contaminated with the anti-corrosion coating on a new rotor (I've had that happen once).

Jason, they were semi-metallic, they were chamfered, they looked high quality, had integral anti-squeel material attached, and they came with a lifetime warranty. I had my rotors turned with a non directional pattern, and as soon as I put them on, they were grabby and created dirt, ill post a photo of my front wheel later they are BLACK, and I cleaned the H out of them last week with wheel cleaner, brushes and a pressure washer that I rented for a deck...I also cleaned and greased the sliders.

Today BLACK...

I am going to do a major brake job soon

where do you get your OEM pads?

I have been getting them at www.gmotors.com go to the site and request a quote.

You can also go to www.rockauto.com, but I have not purchased much from them..

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Because the last two sets of FRONT pads that I have had on my car were aftermarket pads, the first set CRACKED up badly and this set, will put you through the windshield, they are grabby, squeek, and they make my wheels VERY VERY dirty. They are lifetime pads from either Napa or Autozone.

BBF, what type (material) of pads were those? They sound like they were either really bad semi-metallic pads (from the amount of dust produced) or got contaminated with the anti-corrosion coating on a new rotor (I've had that happen once).

Jason, they were semi-metallic, they were chamfered, they looked high quality, had integral anti-squeel material attached, and they came with a lifetime warranty. I had my rotors turned with a non directional pattern, and as soon as I put them on, they were grabby and created dirt, ill post a photo of my front wheel later they are BLACK, and I cleaned the H out of them last week with wheel cleaner, brushes and a pressure washer that I rented for a deck...I also cleaned and greased the sliders.

Today BLACK...

I am going to do a major brake job soon

where do you get your OEM pads?

Dana,

Try www.gmotors.com

or www.rockauto.com

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Jason, they were semi-metallic, they were chamfered, they looked high quality, had integral anti-squeel material attached, and they came with a lifetime warranty. I had my rotors turned with a non directional pattern, and as soon as I put them on, they were grabby and created dirt, ill post a photo of my front wheel later they are BLACK, and I cleaned the H out of them last week with wheel cleaner, brushes and a pressure washer that I rented for a deck...I also cleaned and greased the sliders.

Today BLACK...

If you don't want to do ceramics, then I guess I would try the OEM brakes. The OE pads never lasted beyond about 30,000 miles on my old car. The only ones that did (and are still on it) are the Bendix semi-met pads. They've gone about 80,000 miles...but they're also paired with cross-drilled rotors, which made an incredible difference in pad life and performance. It sounds like you either got a bad set of pads or they were contaminated with something. No brake pads should act like that.

Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond)

"When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?"

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Thanks Jason

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I used Cerametallic brake linings on my last two cars that had drum brakes. They were superior to any asbestos-organic brake linings that I could find, and my father was an automotive wholesaler who specialized in brakes, among other things; he is the one who found the Cermetallic brakes when I complained about fading with the best asbestos-based brake linings available. These brakes were used primarily for racing but were available for passenger cars. In 2008, a web search on Cerametallic reveals that they are the vendor of choice for clutch facings for racing use.

In 2008, the technology has rolled over multiple times between then and now, and two or three of these re-inventions of brake technology have been in disk brake technology. I would go with Cadillac OEM recommendations for the car, because the 300+ hp Northstar cars are designed to work well on the Autobahn, particularly those that have a Z rated tire as an option. This can help you avoid field-testing pads that end up not working for you, and the OEM suggestions for replacement in 2008 are pretty much guaranteed to work for you.

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I used Cerametallic brake linings on my last two cars that had drum brakes. They were superior to any asbestos-organic brake linings that I could find, and my father was an automotive wholesaler who specialized in brakes, among other things; he is the one who found the Cermetallic brakes when I complained about fading with the best asbestos-based brake linings available. These brakes were used primarily for racing but were available for passenger cars. In 2008, a web search on Cerametallic reveals that they are the vendor of choice for clutch facings for racing use.

In 2008, the technology has rolled over multiple times between then and now, and two or three of these re-inventions of brake technology have been in disk brake technology. I would go with Cadillac OEM recommendations for the car, because the 300+ hp Northstar cars are designed to work well on the Autobahn, particularly those that have a Z rated tire as an option. This can help you avoid field-testing pads that end up not working for you, and the OEM suggestions for replacement in 2008 are pretty much guaranteed to work for you.

With that background I trust you saw the movie, Tommy Boy? :D

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I used Cerametallic brake linings on my last two cars that had drum brakes. They were superior to any asbestos-organic brake linings that I could find, and my father was an automotive wholesaler who specialized in brakes, among other things; he is the one who found the Cermetallic brakes when I complained about fading with the best asbestos-based brake linings available. These brakes were used primarily for racing but were available for passenger cars. In 2008, a web search on Cerametallic reveals that they are the vendor of choice for clutch facings for racing use.

In 2008, the technology has rolled over multiple times between then and now, and two or three of these re-inventions of brake technology have been in disk brake technology. I would go with Cadillac OEM recommendations for the car, because the 300+ hp Northstar cars are designed to work well on the Autobahn, particularly those that have a Z rated tire as an option. This can help you avoid field-testing pads that end up not working for you, and the OEM suggestions for replacement in 2008 are pretty much guaranteed to work for you.

With that background I trust you saw the movie, Tommy Boy? :D

thanks... and by what jason said... is it a good choice to go with slotted rotors?

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This whitewall was WHITE a week and a half ago..look at how bad these pads are, both sides are like this, look at the chrome wheel near the tire

0606081524a.jpg

Here is the rear that was cleaned at the same time :blink:

0606081524.jpg

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Not to throw up any more dust and obscure anything.... :D

On Memorial Day weekend (Sunday) I had occasion (opportunity? :D ) to drive my DTS, REAL HARD for about 15 miles in the twisty two lane roads of the Ozark mountains in Arkansas. It has 34,000 miles on it.

Most of the 15 miles was in 2nd and 3rd gear at 3500 to 6500 RPM. Needless to say, there was also a lot of hard braking going on. A few times I was on the brakes hard enough to kick in the ABS and a couple of times the StabiliTrac kicked in on corners.

My car still has the original factory brakes and I experienced NO FADE and no dust with them at all. Or if there was any fade, it was small enough that I didn't notice it. :D

When it comes time for brakes, I will, of course, do some research, but at this time I am leaning towards just replacing them with factory OEM pads. They seem to be doing an excellent job..... so far.

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Not to throw up any more dust and obscure anything.... :D

On Memorial Day weekend (Sunday) I had occasion (opportunity? :D ) to drive my DTS, REAL HARD for about 15 miles in the twisty two lane roads of the Ozark mountains in Arkansas. It has 34,000 miles on it.

Most of the 15 miles was in 2nd and 3rd gear at 3500 to 6500 RPM. Needless to say, there was also a lot of hard braking going on. A few times I was on the brakes hard enough to kick in the ABS and a couple of times the StabiliTrac kicked in on corners.

My car still has the original factory brakes and I experienced NO FADE and no dust with them at all. Or if there was any fade, it was small enough that I didn't notice it. :D

When it comes time for brakes, I will, of course, do some research, but at this time I am leaning towards just replacing them with factory OEM pads. They seem to be doing an excellent job..... so far.

Are the oem pads ACdelco?

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This whitewall was WHITE a week and a half ago..look at how bad these pads are, both sides are like this, look at the chrome wheel near the tire

Wow. That's even worse than the OE pads on Chrysler minivans, which are a CONSTANT source of complaints from owners re: heavy dusting. That's the vehicle on which I originally used the Raybestos QuietStop Ceramic pads, and found them to be far and away better in every regard over the Chrysler brakes. But I will say that I haven't had any complains with ACDelco pads (except for short lining life on the '97).

Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond)

"When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?"

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That's what I mean, its great that they are lifetime, its great that they put you through the windshield, its great I have no shudder from the front, it sucks that my wheels are always dirty... ahh, the tradeoffs

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Not to throw up any more dust and obscure anything.... :D

On Memorial Day weekend (Sunday) I had occasion (opportunity? :D ) to drive my DTS, REAL HARD for about 15 miles in the twisty two lane roads of the Ozark mountains in Arkansas. It has 34,000 miles on it.

Most of the 15 miles was in 2nd and 3rd gear at 3500 to 6500 RPM. Needless to say, there was also a lot of hard braking going on. A few times I was on the brakes hard enough to kick in the ABS and a couple of times the StabiliTrac kicked in on corners.

My car still has the original factory brakes and I experienced NO FADE and no dust with them at all. Or if there was any fade, it was small enough that I didn't notice it. :D

When it comes time for brakes, I will, of course, do some research, but at this time I am leaning towards just replacing them with factory OEM pads. They seem to be doing an excellent job..... so far.

Are the oem pads ACdelco?

Dana,

I would assume that they are AC Delco. They are the original factory pads. They have never been changed.

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That's what I mean, its great that they are lifetime, its great that they put you through the windshield, its great I have no shudder from the front, it sucks that my wheels are always dirty... ahh, the tradeoffs

I don't think I have EVER had pads that gave off THAT MUCH dust. And I hope my next set don't either.

You are right... that much brake dust sucks.

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That's what I mean, its great that they are lifetime, its great that they put you through the windshield, its great I have no shudder from the front, it sucks that my wheels are always dirty... ahh, the tradeoffs

I don't think I have EVER had pads that gave off THAT MUCH dust. And I hope my next set don't either.

You are right... that much brake dust sucks.

Keep in mind that these are not OEM, they are lifetime aftermarket

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Keep in mind that these are not OEM, they are lifetime aftermarket

Understand about them being lifetime aftermarket.

Down thru the years, I have bought all kinds of pads, from the cheapest I could find, to fairly expensive ones, and I don't remember ever having a set that give off that much brake dust. :D:D

Reckon you will have to wash the wheels and tires at least once a week. :D Or maybe after each HARD run you make. :D

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Keep in mind that these are not OEM, they are lifetime aftermarket

Understand about them being lifetime aftermarket.

Down thru the years, I have bought all kinds of pads, from the cheapest I could find, to fairly expensive ones, and I don't remember ever having a set that give off that much brake dust. :D:D

Reckon you will have to wash the wheels and tires at least once a week. :D Or maybe after each HARD run you make. :D

If you look under the 19th hole, you will see my most recent milestone, I have been beating the snot out of her, lots of a-holes out there have been shrouded in my WOT dust... :D Yesterday there was this constant lane changer in a compact vacuum cleaner, you know the ones, back and forth trying to take advantage of the lane that is moving, he cut me off twice, the third time we were doing 40 and he went to cut me off again and started moving left AFTER me, my WOT in his open window and classic Cadillac FOG HORN, moved him back quickly.. He undoubtly needed to change his shorts.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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When I get some time... (if THAT ever happens)... I need to go to the local wrecking yard and get the four horn set from an older Fleetwood Brougham to put on my DTS.

My last Fleetwood Brougham, had a set of horns that would make someone pay attention. :D

If I remember right.... didn't you do something like that to YOURS?

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Cut and pasted from the 19th hole........

This hard driving has stopped my oil usage, its probably the hardest I have ever driven my car.

Laughing.... I wonder if that is why mine NEVER uses any oil? :D:D:D

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Cut and pasted from the 19th hole........

This hard driving has stopped my oil usage, its probably the hardest I have ever driven my car.

Laughing.... I wonder if that is why mine NEVER uses any oil? :D:D:D

The Guru used to say, the more you beat her, the more she likes it, its a high performance racing engine.. Consider that he told us that the NS validation comprised running the engine at FULL FN THROTTLE for 300 hours straight, as Christopher Walken as "The Continental" says, "Wowie, Wowie, Wow, Wow"

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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