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Everything posted by JasonA

  1. Anybody who reads a service manual at bed time or on the throne is a COMPLETE DORK. <hangs head><raises hand> ...guilty...
  2. I always get antsy to replace tires at the 4-5/32" tread depth range. I've never owned tires that were even close to the wear bars. I can feel the difference in aquaplane resistance between new and old tires. Tires also lose traction in general as they age (due to deterioration in the tread compound) and that's not accounted for in the Tire Rack video, because they simply shaved new tires. I think the differences between new and old are even more profound than what the video shows.
  3. Joeb, your '96 may also suffer from worn rear knuckles. That wouldn't be the case with an '01 STS (different design), but I think my '97 SLS had bad knuckles as well.
  4. I would clear the codes and not think twice. Like I said in the other thread, I got a steering wheel position sensor code once before, but cleared it and it never returned. This seems to correlate with Cadillac's recommendation that unless it's a persistent code (indicating a bad sensor), to not worry about it. Maybe it's a small software glitch/issue or something.
  5. I don't think the rear shocks being bad would cause rear tire wear (especially if it's even wear across the tread). Most likely what happened is two tires got replaced, and put in the front, or the tires were not rotated much until you got it, and the worn ones were in the rear.
  6. Jerrymac, thanks for those numbers. That's exactly what I was looking for, and intuitively, it makes perfect sense. I can't believe that the Cadillac system would simply run the compressor at full duty cycle all the time, regardless of requested temperature. I could be wrong, but that does seem awfully inefficient.
  7. It depends on if your '02 STS has the Magnaride shocks and struts. If so, a "realtime damping" shock or strut will not work. If your '02 has the standard oil-filled active suspension (like the '01 has), then a shock/strut for an '01 should work I'd imagine. The GM passive shock would physically fit, but won't include the small sensor/resistor to fool the computer. That's an SLS shock. I wouldn't use it because it won't be tuned properly for the spring rate of the STS. Check the RPO codes on your spare tire lid in the trunk. If your car has "F45", then you have the CV-RSS suspension, a
  8. This is a general question -- applies to Caddies and everything else. Is there enough of a gain in A/C efficiency to warrant using the "MAX A/C" or recirculate option almost all the time? Knowing that the A/C has to remove both heat and moisture from the air, it's understandable that recirculating relatively cool and dry air in the cabin would be more efficacious than using hot and steamy air from outside (especially "southeast" hot and steamy air). I know that on the AUTO setting, the car will often use the recirculate mode automatically, not even necessarily lighting the recirc button wh
  9. Hanger, sounds like you've got bad struts. Mind doesn't bounce at all. I can barely push the rear of the car down period. The rear of my car is as solid as the front...and it sounds like your front struts are still very good. Your rear end should be as solid as your front end. ...Uh...take that statement in context please. I would personally replace the rear struts with Arnott units or similar, engineered to bypass the computer but still retain the load leveling functionality.
  10. I bet it's the steering wheel position sensor. This is apparently not all that uncommon, and the Cadillac guidance even says that if the code comes on intermittently that it's not a cause for replacement. It's apparently something sporadic that can happen. I've had it to come on with my '01 STS also. It's only come on once since I've owned it.
  11. I'm not really sure we need to be pressuring people to be site supporters here. I'm a site supporter of this site. I'm on a number of forums where I'm not a site supporter. You can't give $20, $30, $40 everytime you get help from an Internet website. There's only so much money to go around. We give a lot of money to our church, but don't give any to homeless we see, or "walk up charities" sitting at the local Wal-Mart doors. You can't give to everyone, and I'd probably take offense if someone called me a slacker simply because I didn't exercise my OPTION to make a contribution to a site,
  12. It does depend on your area of the country I think. In Michigan, domestic name plates rule the road. In other urban areas, you see a lot of Japanese brands. Down here, I see more Lexuses than Cadillacs when in town. But out in the more rural areas, and near Pinehurst, lots of Cadillacs. The question was STSes in particular -- very few of them around here...especially the RWD models. Tons of DeVilles and CTSes.
  13. My former '97 has over 165,000 on it now. Besides the water pump, no seals have ever been replaced in that engine. Runs like a champ still.
  14. From what I understand, the problem is significantly reduced from 2000 on. The bolt threads were elongated I believe in 2000, and the pitch stayed the same. Then in 2004, the pitch was also changed, and the bolts may have been elongated again. Even with changes to the head bolts, head gasket issues are not impossible to have, on any engine. Someone on the Chrysler minivan forum had his 3.8L V-6 engine in for head gaskets at only 27,000 miles. Those engines are known to be generally bulletproof and good for at least a quarter million miles, and are certainly not known for head gasket failu
  15. Isn't the OE resonator right behind the converter a "glasspack" muffler, in essence? I thought it was simply a perforated tubing with fiberglass matting inside.
  16. In general, yes, it's normal...especially if you're not using A/C. Cooling fans are controlled by two main inputs: the A/C and the coolant temperature. Without A/C use, the cooling fans are controlled entirely by coolant temperature. They will remain off until the coolant reaches a temperature of about 229*F. Your temperature gauge will start to come off the "straight-up" mark at about 220-222*F in my experience (from my '97 SLS). So pretty soon after you see the gauge start to move a little, you should hear the cooling fans engage (on LOW speed), and the gauge will soon thereafter retur
  17. Like Jim, I also use a tread depth gauge. It also helps me to determine when a tire rotation is in order. I won't rotate the tires until there's a 1/32" difference in tread depth front-to-rear. If the tires start wearing a little feathered on the edges, I'll just rotate them side-to-side if there's not a big difference in tread depth. I prefer to replace tires at the 4-5/32" mark. Many are calling for an update to the coin test -- from the Penny test to the Quarter test. There's approximately 4/32" between the top of Washington's head and the edge of the quarter. It's the exact same as
  18. No hard feelings. We're all here to learn and enjoy our cars.
  19. You cannot tell on a '98+ STS. Prior to '98, you could actually program the Driver Information Center to display the digital temperature. It became one of the choices when scrolled through the data with the INFO button.
  20. So what were the conditions under which the gauge was moving around on you a few days ago? Do you remember what the actual coolant temperatures were? 190 +/- is right at where my '97 would run. With A/C use (and the fans cycling on/off) and hot weather and traffic, it'd run around the 205-215 area. But again, that's with the fans cycling on/off. With the fans locked on, I believe it would have run under 200*F all day, like yours apparently did on Saturday.
  21. I like the ones with dials. I've found a lot of variability in the pencil/slide gauges. Probably due to the lubrication issue catmendo mentioned above.
  22. My '01 STS does the same thing. And yes, it feels like the hinges are very "dry". I may try the lube, but it's good to see there's a part available to make the fix.
  23. By the way, I didn't write that. If you're thinking I wrote that, you must have me confused with someone else. You're right -- that is a disrepectful tone, and I'd never write something like that on here. Sorry if there was any confusion.
  24. Well, I never said you were stupid and I never said you drove a Model T. I would encourage you to re-read my post. My post was in reply to your statement, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." Please re-read what I said...I said that even though something may not be "broken", doesn't mean there's no room for improvement. Nothing about bias-ply tires was "broken". But their performance was substantially improved upon by radial tire designs. Heck, even radial tires from 10 years ago pale to what we have today. The same can be said of just about EVERYTHING...especially motor oil. The advance
  25. Yes, that's right. If his fans are locked on, and both are working, the temperature gauge shouldn't be moving around at all, regardless of cooling fan speed. Those fans being on low all the time should be enough to keep that coolant temperature pretty dadgum steady.
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