_DTS_ Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 In terms of miles 2000? 3000? 5000? 7500 or more? When your Caddy tells you to? I can't stand going over 3000... just me though. For my next oil change, I'm thinking about trying Mobil 1, 5w30 Extended Performance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Nunnally Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 When the oil life indicator gets to under 15% or so I change it with Mobil 1 5W30. Mobil 1 is the recommended oil fill for the CTS 3.6L, which even comes with a "Mobil 1" oil fill cap. Bruce 2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing Follow me on: Twitter Instagram Youtube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 No technical reason to change oil before the OLM says to change it. There is a maximum calendar interval in your Owner's Manual I believe. The chemical additive package in modern engine oils makes 3,000 mile oil changes a waste of money and other resources. Your engine was factory filled with 5W-30 dinosaur oil. What benefit do you expect to realize from Mobil 1? So far, my soon-to-be 10 year old engine has logged more than 161,000 miles with the recommended dinosaur oil changed when the OLM says 0% oil life remaining. I am confident my engine will still be running (without oil-related failure) for as long as I care to drive it. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 With the type of driving that I do, my OLM maxes out at 12,500. It will max out at about 40K very shortly and from then on I will probably do it every 10K just to make it easy. 10W30 Supertech conventional. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 5000 miles. OLM at about 55 to 60 percent. Pennzoil 5w-30. I know I am wasting money and oil but I can't help it. If it gets over 5000 miles... I am constantly worrying that I am hurting the engine with dirty oil. Logically, I know it is OK. But I can't get my brain to believe it. BBF...... I have the oil analysis kit from Blackstone Labs. Will be changing oil next week probably. Will send it to the lab and see what they say. For an extra 10 bucks they check for a lot more stuff. Will probably do that also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 Ditto about the Oil Life Indicator, which is usually about 5K miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigCat83 Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 When my OLM says 50% I start thing about a change and like to change it between 65% and 75%. I use either Mobil or Castrol High Mileage 10-30. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caddypete Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 I use the olm, it is against my principals I believe oil is cheap compared to engine damage, but I let it get to 20-30% then change it. Penzoil 5w30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 Lets face it, if the OLM did not work, we'd all be suffering engine damage. Especially JimD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95SevilleSLS Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 I still change mine at 3000 miles, I am a sucker for that. It is really dirty around here and those filters aren't that big. Besides, it doesn't cost that much to change oil and I like doing it. I use schaeffer oil because of their additive in there that sticks to the cylinder walls. You can really tell a difference in cold weather and on the first start ups of the day. My 01 suburban that I used to have had horrible piston slap (typical 6.0L and 5.3L) and I switched to shaeffer and it dramitcally helped. It barely did it after that. Schaeffer is supposed to help prevent dry start ups. -Dusty- - 02 Seville STS, white diamond - 93 Sixty Special, Tan with vinyl top - 79 Coupe DeVille, Tan with Tan top - 06 GMC Sierra Z71, Black - 92 Silverado C1500, black and grey - 83 Chevy K10 Silverado, Black and Grey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
growe3 Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 The OLM has been working great, although it took a while to feel comfortable with it. Mostly freeway driving (80%), and moderate hills. About 7,000 miles (Pennzoil 10-30) for my 93 STS. 10,000+ miles (Pennzoil 5-30) for my 04 DTS. Drive'em like you own 'em. - ....................04 DTS............................ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 I use the OLM and start looking for a day to change the oil when it hits 50%; thats about 3000 miles in most driving, and I very rarely go over 4000 miles. My wife has a 1999 Grand Am GT with the 3.4 l V6 and she waits for the OLM light to come on, which I believe it does at 10%, and her car is fine. We run 5W-30 Mobil 1 in both cars. So I think that the OLM warning light is just fine for long engine life, but I like to see clean oil all the time. What I get from 5W-30 synthetic is just a trace more performance. Note the "energy efficent" advantage of synthetic oils? That's lower engine drag, probably becuase less of it hangs on the crankshaft or something like that. I notice it as a bit more snap in the engine. With my previous car, a Quad 4 HO, this effect was quite noticeable; it's subtile in the larger Northstar but I think it's probably worth 5 hp or something like that. My wife only drives about 5,000 miles a year. So, she goes about a year between oil changes. I don't think that the OLM takes garage time into account because I don't think that the PCM has a clock input when the ignition is off. I think that the synthetic has less tendancy to collect moisture while sitting in the garage than dino oil, so that may be an advantage for her car. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasper60103 Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 The OLM probably works great. I haven't driven my caddy long enough to get used to it. But I think folks that don't check their fluids regularly could benefit from the usual 3000 mile routine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick7997 Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 I change every 3000... OLM is generally right at 50%... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 I think that the synthetic has less tendancy to collect moisture while sitting in the garage than dino oil, so that may be an advantage for her car. Jim, Please claryfy why synthetic oil would collect less moisture vs. conventional oil. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 For years I've been changing according to the OLM using Mobil 1 10W30. With all the recent talk regarding reduced ZDDP levels, I'm again changing at around 3000 miles or 50% OLM. I just found a box of old stock Mobil 1 10W30 Extended performance SL grade oil for my next change in a few months. After that, I'll need to start using the new SM grade oils. If I'm not mistaken, back in 1996 (my Eldorado is a 1997 model) the SL grade oil was introduced, so 1996 and newer N*'s should have been certified to use the SL grade oils which have only very slightly more ZDDP than the newer SM grade that's out now. I guess they must have hardened the cams and tappets for 1996 & newer N*'s, but I can't seem to confirm this. I'm trying to convince myself that my N* will be adequately protected even with the ZDDP reduced SM grade oil, but I'm still hesitant to run beyond 3000 anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 KHE -- It's pretty clear that you want documentation, so I did a little looing for links. Here are some responses to posted questions from Mobil 1: Handling contamination between oil changes Maximum oil change periods Staying on the parts on stored engines According to Mobil's post in the first link, Mobil 1 handles moisture and other contaminants better than other oils, but absorbing less moisture is not mentioned. There's a lot of information on that site. For example, Mobil 1 High Mileage oils are recommended for cars that have been run to high mileage on dino oils. If you run synthetic, you don't need to switch to Mobil 1 high mileage oil. The attribute of Mobil 1 high mileage oil that I have seen today is an additive to make oil seals (rear seal, front seal, oil pan gasket, our Northstar O-ring) more plaint and decrease shrinkage, so if your Northstar is leaking oil, you might try Mobil 1 High Mileage. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasper60103 Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 my owners manual says if the oil level is at or below the hash area on the dip stick, you're at least a quart low. Just wondering when do you top off? Halfway down in the hash area, or wait til its at the bottom of the hash area? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 It holds 7.5 qts. Even if you wait till the check oil level message comes on, you still have 5.5 qts. No need to get too worried about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 Learn to trust the OLM, here is a great thread on the subject. If you are afraid of the reduced ZDDP purchase a couple of quarts of EOS from the dealer it has high levels of ZDDP in it and you can spike your oil with it. KHE spikes his oil with EOS (Engine Oil Supplement).. I think he only uses a pint with each oil change, but I hope he sees this and comments Think back, the owners manuals used to say for short trips change the oil every 3000 miles and for long trips 7500 miles. You needed to be a freakin genious to figure that out so everyone just changed their oil every 3000 miles, pretty dumb. Anyway see this thread, the OLM is a very sophistocated monitor that takes a lot into consideration. Not to mention, the oils, elimination of the CHOKE and CARBURATOR and the EGR systems are MUCH improved and the engines run hotter and burn moisture out of the oil fast. Rather than repost all of this great info from the GURU, I would rather direct you all here: <a href="http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...hl=life+monitor" target="_blank">http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...hl=life+monitor</a> Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 KHE -- It's pretty clear that you want documentation, so I did a little looing for links. Here are some responses to posted questions from Mobil 1: Handling contamination between oil changes Maximum oil change periods Staying on the parts on stored engines According to Mobil's post in the first link, Mobil 1 handles moisture and other contaminants better than other oils, but absorbing less moisture is not mentioned. There's a lot of information on that site. For example, Mobil 1 High Mileage oils are recommended for cars that have been run to high mileage on dino oils. If you run synthetic, you don't need to switch to Mobil 1 high mileage oil. The attribute of Mobil 1 high mileage oil that I have seen today is an additive to make oil seals (rear seal, front seal, oil pan gasket, our Northstar O-ring) more plaint and decrease shrinkage, so if your Northstar is leaking oil, you might try Mobil 1 High Mileage. Sounds like marketing hype from Mobil's marketing department. The best way to rid the moisture from the oil is to drive the car - at least 10 miles to get the oil hot. Learn to trust the OLM, here is a great thread on the subject. If you are afraid of the reduced ZDDP purchase a couple of quarts of EOS from the dealer it has high levels of ZDDP in it and you can spike your oil with it. KHE spikes his oil with EOS (Engine Oil Supplement).. I think he only uses a pint with each oil change, but I hope he sees this and comments Think back, the owners manuals used to say for short trips change the oil every 3000 miles and for long trips 7500 miles. You needed to be a freakin genious to figure that out so everyone just changed their oil every 3000 miles, pretty dumb. Anyway see this thread, the OLM is a very sophistocated monitor that takes a lot into consideration. Not to mention, the oils, elimination of the CHOKE and CARBURATOR and the EGR systems are MUCH improved and the engines run hotter and burn moisture out of the oil fast. Rather than repost all of this great info from the GURU, I would rather direct you all here: <a href="http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...hl=life+monitor" target="_blank">http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...hl=life+monitor</a> 1 pint of EOS is way too much for an oil change - I add 5 ozs with each oil change (2/3 ozs per quart of oil). Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 Thanks Kevin, great timing!! For a second, I didn't understand what you meant, you meant 2 thirds of an ounce per quart, not 2 to 3 ounces per quart. So, at 7.5 quarts times .66 (2 divided by 3) = 5 ounces, got it, Thanks Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stefank Posted October 13, 2007 Report Share Posted October 13, 2007 I change the oil (5W30 synthetic local brand but meeting GM/Opel standard) according to the OLM, when it throws the "change oil soon" message at about 15% left. Usually that's after some 11,000 kms (7,000 mls). Oil is about three months in the engine by then. Stefan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fast95SLS Posted October 18, 2007 Report Share Posted October 18, 2007 I believe in changing my oil every 3,000 miles. I have used Pennzoil High Mileage Oil since I hit 160,000 miles. It helps with the consumption. I now have 322,000 miles on my SLS. I am hard on the car. I have 250 runs done the dragstrip with it in addition to high mileage. The engine still sounds and runs great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasper60103 Posted October 18, 2007 Report Share Posted October 18, 2007 I now have 322,000 miles on my SLS. I am hard on the car. I have 250 runs done the dragstrip with it in addition to high mileage. The engine still sounds and runs great. Wow, Fast. 322K hard miles on the clock and still runs great. Thats excellent! You have to be among the highest miles driven with Northstars? Did you ever have any head gasket problems? -jasper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.