Considering rebuilding my Northstar

[BodybyFisher]

Ok, I am pretty sure my engine has pulled the head bolts. I will 100% confirm that opinion before I do this job.

This thread is for me to begin my research and get opinions and information from our timeserters.

My engine is leaking from the case half seal, which I believe is causing my low pressure at idle. In cold weather, I get all kinds of knocking till its warmed up. I cant help but think, that the case half leak is hurting oil pressure to the top of the engine in cold weather. Its also possible that I have a bad lifter or CAM lobe. The engine has a knock that annoys me

I have a machine shop that I use, I plan to have the block hot tanked and I will have the deck checked. I want to make sure that the cylinder walls are level with the deck.

Here are my questions:

1) Should I TIME-SERT the engine or use STUDS and why?

2) Should I replace the pistons with new pistons with the teflon coating?

3) Should I replace the oil pump?

4) I dont have the room to drop the carriage, how difficult is it to pull the engine out of the top? I know Kevin (KHE) said if he had to do it over again, he would drop the carriage, why Kevin?

5) I plan to replace my torque convertor and TC seal, the car has 127,000 miles on it

6) I will inspect the CAM lobes with a micrometer for wear and check it visually for scoring

7) I will inspect/disassemble/clean each lifter and check the faces for scoring

8) I plan to replace the main bearings since I am doing the case half seal

9) I plan to replace the rod bearings

10) I will have the heads hot tanked, and inspect the valves and valve springs (tension) and replace the seals

11) I plan to replace the rear engine seal

12) While I am there, I will replace the plastic HVAC cover

13) My harmonic balancer is wobbling, should I replace it?

14) What special tools do I need? (flywheel holder, torque angle gage?)

I do not want any leaks when I am done, and I want to return to 10W30, and I want to eliminate all knocking.

Any comments or advice welcomed, thanks

[Ranger]

Mike, I'd go with the studs. Here is what Jake has to say about it. I think the studs are just snugged down and the is no twisting on the aluminum threads as you torque the heads. The pressure is put on the studs.

http://www.northstarperformance.com/sgstuds.php

[Jan Olsson]

I can't see any benefits from using studs. On older brittish cars with aluminium blocks they are common, but that is just because the same problem existed back then. I.e. when you loosen the bolts threads becomes ruined (with aluminium/steel connections), thats why they used studs. Now with Time-serts there is no need to worry unless one does a lousy job and don't drill, tap and seat them properly.

With studs you can't remove the heads with the engine in the car and there is always the possibility that the studs comes loose when trying to loosen the nuts holding the heads.

The studs are not as strong as the bolts because it seems like they are using cutted threads instead of ordinary rolled threads. It will propably work since it seems like quite a lot have used them but I can't see why they should be any better than bolts. The only use that comes in mind is if the od is larger than the big-sert od and someone made a bad big-sert install.

The greatest portion of stress in the threads comes from the clamping force and from the thermal expansion, the friction between the threads when tightening (from friction) affects the screw. The outer threads only sees that torque when tightening and in the worst case 30% of the torque that's applied is for overcoming the friction between threads and bolt head..and the bolt head gets most of it. The outer thread gets 0,1-0,2 what the thread gets because of friction as maximum). I wouldn't worry about a few percents extra stress, I would worry about the cutted threads in the studs

[BodybyFisher]

Thanks Ranger, Ill check that out. My gut is that the studs when torqued just pull as opposed to the bolts that when tightened gall the threads.

I am concerned that the material surrounding the bolt hole threads is still good. I cant recall the member's name, but he worked for GM and he put a NS in a Fiero, but he had photos of flaky aluminum.

[BodybyFisher]

I can't see any benefits from using studs. On older brittish cars with aluminium blocks they are common, but that is just because the same problem existed back then. I.e. when you loosen the bolts threads becomes ruined (with aluminium/steel connections), thats why they used studs. Now with Time-serts there is no need to worry unless one does a lousy job and don't drill, tap and seat them properly.

With studs you can't remove the heads with the engine in the car and there is always the possibility that the studs comes loose when trying to loosen the nuts holding the heads.

The studs are not as strong as the bolts because it seems like they are using cutted threads instead of ordinary rolled threads. It will propably work since it seems like quite a lot have used them but I can't see why they should be any better than bolts. The only use that comes in mind is if the od is larger than the big-sert od and someone made a bad big-sert install.

The greatest portion of stress in the threads comes from the clamping force and from the thermal expansion, the friction between the threads when tightening (from friction) affects the screw. The outer threads only sees that torque when tightening and in the worst case 30% of the torque that's applied is for overcoming the friction between threads and bolt head..and the bolt head gets most of it. The outer thread gets 0,1-0,2 what the thread gets because of friction as maximum). I wouldn't worry about a few percents extra stress, I would worry about the cutted threads in the studs

This was my opinion also, that there was little or no benefit, if threads pulled on bolts they would pull on studs also. I need to read the info at the link that Ranger posted and see what the general consensus is

[MrEldo97]

1. I'd go with the studs, but good agruments can be made for bolts and I agree that if the heads ever have to come off bolts are easier.

2. No; not worth the expense for a road car and the teflon coating doesn't add to service life.

3. Yes

4. I would think dropping the carriage and sliding it out from under the car would be far less work and

easier in the long run.

5. Yes

6. I'd replace the cams and lifters.

7. See 6

8. Yes

9. Yes

10. I'd replace all valves, springs and seals as they have 127,000 miles wear.

11. Yes

12. Yes

13. Yes - 127,000 miles of wear

14. Yes

Considering all of the work, money in parts and tools and time involved you may want to consider a reman. motor...

I have to do the same to my Eldorado. Engine runs good and my Timesert repair is holding up, but it's leaking everywhere. I have onehelluvamess in my driveway. My Alfas never leaked like my Eldorado... Trans, side cover is leaking, A/C doesn't work and so on and so on. As my car has 115,000 miles on it I may just bite the big o*e and put some serious loot into it. My questions: Do I reseal my motor and trans or replace with reman units? I'm leaning toward a Jasper motor and resealing the trans as the trans is in excellent condition; albeit with 115,000 miles on it... Of course I will also have to have the A/C rebuilt at the same time. My Eldo is in very good overall condition and the cost of reman units is better than a payment book - 8 0r 10 large as opposed to 25 to 30 large for a newer Caddy - no taxes, depreciation or higher insurance and, in terms of luxury, what can newer Caddys give me that my Eldorado can't?. I'm an older boomer who doesn't care about all kinds of electronic goodies - just A/C, good tunes, a smooth ride and V-8 power. I'd be happy with a late '70s convertible as well. And my Eldorado still gets comments like "Jeez, that is a nice Eldorado..."

[BodybyFisher]

Mr Eldo, thanks for your input

Last year I tilted the carriage to replace the ISS speed sensor in the tranny, my tranny was leaking badly before the job, replacing the side pan and bottom pan gaskets solved the leak and its dry.

A couple of years ago I rebuilt my AC system with new compressor, condenser, o rings, drier, etc, it was not a bad job, with the help and expertise of this board.

I plan to video tape this job in HD, so I would not go the Jasper route.

New CAMs would be expensive, that is why I would inspect them and replace as necessary.

GM came out with the teflon coated pistons to eliminate/reduce the cold engine knock, not that I get a lot of that with frequent WOTs. I get a scary cold engine knock that sounds like a bearing deep in the engine that is always there. I had kind of gotten used to it, but if you rev the engine with your head under the hood you hear it clearly. I would love to confirm that I have a bad bearing in some way when I disassemble it (plasti-gage?). I also will check for a bad wrist pin in the pistons. Whatever it is I dont want a knock on reassembly.

The only problem I have with dropping the carriage is that I dont have a place to put the car when I drop it. I plan on taking my time doing this job, probably doing it over the winter.

By the way, has anyone put a Northstar on an engine stand?

[Jan Olsson]

1) No (as explained earlier)

2) No. When you open up the engine you'll se that about anything looks as good as new. No need to replace if it isn't broken? Why teflon?

3) Your low oil pressure concerns me. Are you sure it isn't the oil pressure sending unit for instance? For a pressure drop like that you should have a HUGE leak or a sticking pressure valve.

4) I have only done this with engine in place, I guess I would try to drop it because you can remove both tranny and engine without having to tear the hole car apart inside the engine room Needs space though.

5) If you're going to split tranny/engine I think you should replace the seal just in case.

6) Can be tricky. Be sure to use a newly calibrated one and watch out for correct temperature whem measuring, your palm heats the micrometer up rather quickly. I don't think that you should be worried except if you see marks.

7) Agree

8) Check them first, they should be fine Many times knocks comes from an engine running "poorly"

9) As above

10) Check the valves and replace the seals. I was astonished that they worked just as the should on my 1993 STS (after over 136000 miles), but since you are that deep anyway I would replace them.

11) As point 5

12) Good point

13) How much? They seem to do that. Both my 2002 and 1993 had a wobble, just 1/25" but I guess that the rubber "lives" and heat etc does that. I wouldn't worry unless the rubber is tearing.

14) You can add a fuel line quick disconnect tool, but it can be done with a popsicle stick broken in three pieces, you can also make a flywheel holder from a u-shaped piece of steel flatbar (1/8" thick and 1" wide if I recall right).

[MrEldo97]

The two problems I have with doing all of this myself are that my wife drives it for work every day (lucky she has a short commute) so I can’t afford to have the car laid up for a long period of time and lack of motivation on my part. I have done so much “heavy” work over the years I just don’t want to do it any more. I don’t mind “easier” work (of course “easier” in a N* is relative…) but jobs involving removing or tilting the cradle and so on…no thank you… I’ve done it and don’t want to do it again. You younger guys are more ambitious than I. Yes cams are expensive, but my experience has shown me that prudence requires replacement, but if budget is an issue you can replace only if necessary. I didn’t realize that GM is providing Teflon coated pistons so sure why not – I would under these circumstance. My N* always had a lot of cold start piston slap – loose manufacturing tolerances – s***ty quality control; I kinda got used to it. I really don’t think you have one or more bad bearings – you’ve maintained the engine? I understand about the lack of room as I have the same problem, which is why I Timeserted my car by dropping the cradle and lifting the body. Another thought, a mid-rise lift. Drop the cradle on a jack, raise the body on the lift and roll the cradle out from under the car.

[BodybyFisher]

The two problems I have with doing all of this myself are that my wife drives it for work every day (lucky she has a short commute) so I can’t afford to have the car laid up for a long period of time and lack of motivation on my part. I have done so much “heavy” work over the years I just don’t want to do it any more. I don’t mind “easier” work (of course “easier” in a N* is relative…) but jobs involving removing or tilting the cradle and so on…no thank you… I’ve done it and don’t want to do it again. You younger guys are more ambitious than I. Yes cams are expensive, but my experience has shown me that prudence requires replacement, but if budget is an issue you can replace only if necessary. I didn’t realize that GM is providing Teflon coated pistons so sure why not – I would under these circumstance. My N* always had a lot of cold start piston slap – loose manufacturing tolerances – s***ty quality control; I kinda got used to it. I really don’t think you have one or more bad bearings – you’ve maintained the engine? I understand about the lack of room as I have the same problem, which is why I Timeserted my car by dropping the cradle and lifting the body. Another thought, a mid-rise lift. Drop the cradle on a jack, raise the body on the lift and roll the cradle out from under the car.

I will be 56 tomorrow, so I understand the physical toll you are talking about, that is one reason I am going to take my time with it. Tilting the carriage two years ago killed me physically.

I have maintained it well. The problem I have is that I believe that the case half seal can go bad internally, dropping the overall oil pressure. Currently I can not use 10W30 without having the low pressure oil light come on at idle and really bad leaking. The hotter the engine gets the worse the oil pressure is at idle. As a result of lower oil pressure I cant help but think that some bearings might have been damaged maybe even a CAM bearing.

The problem for me lifting the body is, WTF do I do with the body over the winter

I do believe it would be cool to have the entire carriage out though

[MrEldo97]

Happy birthday! 1953 was a good year!

"Tilting the carriage two years ago killed me physically. " Believe me, I feel you're pain. That Timesert job finished me.

I don't have a low oil pressure problem in my N' - yet. I still run 10/30, but it leaks all over the place. I'm considering resealing my motor, but I'll still have an engine with 115,000 miles of wear. One reason for thinking of a reman motor is my wife and I are planning on many more years of ownership and numerous long trips. I like the new Caddys but not enough for a 5 or 6 year book. We're looking to simplify our lives in at our stage of life (I'm 57, she's 59) and long trips. She doesn't like riding in my XJS during long trips and finds the Eldorado to be much roomier and more comfortable. True, but I can drive my XJS all day long... So a totally rehabbed '97 Eldorado is the plan, unless we buy a '93 Allante...

[BodybyFisher]

Happy birthday! 1953 was a good year!

Thanks Mr Eldo

[Jan Olsson]

My N* always had a lot of cold start piston slap – loose manufacturing tolerances – s***ty quality control

We know that the Northstar engine is designed to be run hard, big clearences to handle WOT hour after hour, valve guiding clearances, lesser tension in the piston rings to accomplish low fuel consumption at speed etc etc, can't say that it is bad manufacturing when it is supposed to be that way. Sounds like you have the cold carbon rap.

Ok, so there are pistons to solve the "problem" just as they had to put in an extra oil scraper ring to "correct" the high oil consumption.

Perhaps they should have made a Slowstar?

[MrEldo97]

"Perhaps they should have made a Slowstar?"

Ohhh...I don't know about that...

I got used to my N* rappin' and bangin' on cold start up. Of course in Tampa Bay it doesn't get that cold.

When I had it apart during my Timesert job I cleaned all of the carbon out of the heads and off the piston tops.

The d**n thing really took off when I got it all back together. It's amazing what exacting cam timing will do for a N*.

[OynxSTS]

Ok, I am pretty sure my engine has pulled the head bolts. I will 100% confirm that opinion before I do this job.

Here are my questions:

1) Should I TIME-SERT the engine or use STUDS and why?

2) Should I replace the pistons with new pistons with the teflon coating?

3) Should I replace the oil pump?

4) I dont have the room to drop the carriage, how difficult is it to pull the engine out of the top? I know Kevin (KHE) said if he had to do it over again, he would drop the carriage, why Kevin?

5) I plan to replace my torque convertor and TC seal, the car has 127,000 miles on it

6) I will inspect the CAM lobes with a micrometer for wear and check it visually for scoring

7) I will inspect/disassemble/clean each lifter and check the faces for scoring

8) I plan to replace the main bearings since I am doing the case half seal

9) I plan to replace the rod bearings

10) I will have the heads hot tanked, and inspect the valves and valve springs (tension) and replace the seals

11) I plan to replace the rear engine seal

12) While I am there, I will replace the plastic HVAC cover

13) My harmonic balancer is wobbling, should I replace it?

14) What special tools do I need? (flywheel holder, torque angle gage?)

Wow, sorry to hear this news... Yet another 96/97/98/99 bites the dust

1) Ya I would try the studs... There seems to be something wrong with the late 90's Northstar blocks... In theory the Stud should be stronger... If you go with TimeSerts I would use a kit and bolts from a 2004 and newer motor since they are longer and have a pitch that is better suited for aluminum blocks.

2) If you are experience piston slap then ya might as well fix this too.

3) Yes, always do this during a rebuild

4) Drop the Carriage... If you have enough clearance to use a cherry picker to yank the engine out of the top.. You should have enough clearance to use a cherry picker to pull the car off of the engine.

5) Sure, if you want... easy job with every thing apart... though I probably wouldn't bother.. Torque converters don't seem to be that big of a deal on these motors

6) Smart

7) Ditto

8) The half case seal! and main bearings Yes!

9) Sure rod bearing are cheap and should almost never be reused... this is like the oil pump.

10) Can't hurt.

11) Same as 8, and 9... This is cheap and easy insurance

12) If its broken / disintegrated, now is the time

13) Replace it

14) If you go with studs you can avoid the fancy torque wrench For the rods it is better to measure bolt stretch anyway. You will need a power steering puller/installer to remove the water pump pulley

Good luck!

[OynxSTS]

Eldorado... Trans, side cover is leaking

If the tranny is leaking out of the drivers output shaft, that is NOT a seal, that is a shattered support bearing and this will kill the tranny. All to common problem on cars driven with any kind of verve

[KHE]

Ok, I am pretty sure my engine has pulled the head bolts. I will 100% confirm that opinion before I do this job.

This thread is for me to begin my research and get opinions and information from our timeserters.

My engine is leaking from the case half seal, which I believe is causing my low pressure at idle. In cold weather, I get all kinds of knocking till its warmed up. I cant help but think, that the case half leak is hurting oil pressure to the top of the engine in cold weather. Its also possible that I have a bad lifter or CAM lobe. The engine has a knock that annoys me

I have a machine shop that I use, I plan to have the block hot tanked and I will have the deck checked. I want to make sure that the cylinder walls are level with the deck.

Here are my questions:

1) Should I TIME-SERT the engine or use STUDS and why?

2) Should I replace the pistons with new pistons with the teflon coating?

3) Should I replace the oil pump?

4) I dont have the room to drop the carriage, how difficult is it to pull the engine out of the top? I know Kevin (KHE) said if he had to do it over again, he would drop the carriage, why Kevin?

5) I plan to replace my torque convertor and TC seal, the car has 127,000 miles on it

6) I will inspect the CAM lobes with a micrometer for wear and check it visually for scoring

7) I will inspect/disassemble/clean each lifter and check the faces for scoring

8) I plan to replace the main bearings since I am doing the case half seal

9) I plan to replace the rod bearings

10) I will have the heads hot tanked, and inspect the valves and valve springs (tension) and replace the seals

11) I plan to replace the rear engine seal

12) While I am there, I will replace the plastic HVAC cover

13) My harmonic balancer is wobbling, should I replace it?

14) What special tools do I need? (flywheel holder, torque angle gage?)

I do not want any leaks when I am done, and I want to return to 10W30, and I want to eliminate all knocking.

Any comments or advice welcomed, thanks

I'd be interested on the outcome of a cylinder pressure test and coolant combustion test before embarking on a Timesert job. The case half seal can be replaced with the engine in the car by dropping the trans - I think there was a GM service tech. that used to frequen this board who did it that way. My opinions on your questions are as follows:

1) Timeserts are the factory approved method of repair.

2) I wouldn't bother replacing the pistons.

3) The oil pump is a geroter type - I wouldn't replace it unless the existing pump fails the clearance test outlined in the manual.

4) If I were only Timeserting the engine, I'd lift the body off the powertrain - that is the preferred method outlined in the shop manual. Since you need to separate the trans from the engine in order to replace the case half seals, I'd probably say to pull just the engine from the top.

5) Same as #4

6) Good idea - my bet is you will not notice any appreciable wear.

7) I think you mean just to remove the lifter and inspect it not disassemble the lifters right?

8) Probably not needed - the Guru stated these engines will go for 250,000 miles before they need rings and then a new set of rings will restore them.

9) Same as #8

10) The valve seals are viton and will outlast the rest of the car.

11) As long as you're in there to replace the case half seal, new front and rear seals would be a good idea.

12) If your existing cover is brittle, that would be the time to replace the cover.

13) Yes.

14) Engine hoist (Cherry picker), engine stand, flywheel lock, torque angle meter, Timesert kit, 20 Timeserts, power steering pulley remover for the water pump pulley. If you're going to remove the valves you'll need a spring compressor.

[BodybyFisher]

Thanks guys

You have to admit that this looks pretty cool

[BodybyFisher]

Ok, I am pretty sure my engine has pulled the head bolts. I will 100% confirm that opinion before I do this job.

This thread is for me to begin my research and get opinions and information from our timeserters.

My engine is leaking from the case half seal, which I believe is causing my low pressure at idle. In cold weather, I get all kinds of knocking till its warmed up. I cant help but think, that the case half leak is hurting oil pressure to the top of the engine in cold weather. Its also possible that I have a bad lifter or CAM lobe. The engine has a knock that annoys me

I have a machine shop that I use, I plan to have the block hot tanked and I will have the deck checked. I want to make sure that the cylinder walls are level with the deck.

Here are my questions:

1) Should I TIME-SERT the engine or use STUDS and why?

2) Should I replace the pistons with new pistons with the teflon coating?

3) Should I replace the oil pump?

4) I dont have the room to drop the carriage, how difficult is it to pull the engine out of the top? I know Kevin (KHE) said if he had to do it over again, he would drop the carriage, why Kevin?

5) I plan to replace my torque convertor and TC seal, the car has 127,000 miles on it

6) I will inspect the CAM lobes with a micrometer for wear and check it visually for scoring

7) I will inspect/disassemble/clean each lifter and check the faces for scoring

8) I plan to replace the main bearings since I am doing the case half seal

9) I plan to replace the rod bearings

10) I will have the heads hot tanked, and inspect the valves and valve springs (tension) and replace the seals

11) I plan to replace the rear engine seal

12) While I am there, I will replace the plastic HVAC cover

13) My harmonic balancer is wobbling, should I replace it?

14) What special tools do I need? (flywheel holder, torque angle gage?)

I do not want any leaks when I am done, and I want to return to 10W30, and I want to eliminate all knocking.

Any comments or advice welcomed, thanks

I'd be interested on the outcome of a cylinder pressure test and coolant combustion test before embarking on a Timesert job. The case half seal can be replaced with the engine in the car by dropping the trans - I think there was a GM service tech. that used to frequen this board who did it that way. My opinions on your questions are as follows:

1) Timeserts are the factory approved method of repair.

2) I wouldn't bother replacing the pistons.

3) The oil pump is a geroter type - I wouldn't replace it unless the existing pump fails the clearance test outlined in the manual.

4) If I were only Timeserting the engine, I'd lift the body off the powertrain - that is the preferred method outlined in the shop manual. Since you need to separate the trans from the engine in order to replace the case half seals, I'd probably say to pull just the engine from the top.

5) Same as #4

6) Good idea - my bet is you will not notice any appreciable wear.

7) I think you mean just to remove the lifter and inspect it not disassemble the lifters right?

8) Probably not needed - the Guru stated these engines will go for 250,000 miles before they need rings and then a new set of rings will restore them.

9) Same as #8

10) The valve seals are viton and will outlast the rest of the car.

11) As long as you're in there to replace the case half seal, new front and rear seals would be a good idea.

12) If your existing cover is brittle, that would be the time to replace the cover.

13) Yes.

14) Engine hoist (Cherry picker), engine stand, flywheel lock, torque angle meter, Timesert kit, 20 Timeserts, power steering pulley remover for the water pump pulley. If you're going to remove the valves you'll need a spring compressor.

I dont know if the NS lifters are similar to the old style lifters but I used to disassemble them and clean them good.

I need to get rid of this knock I have, its very obvious. I plan to measure the piston clearance and if the clearance is too much, replace the pistons to stop excessive rocking. I know what the guru said about the main bearings but in the old days new bearings used to create a CRUSH, once the bearing is torqued that CRUSH is gone. See this article http://www.firstfives.org/wwwboard/messages/71600.html

I guess the only way not to waste money will be to inspect and check clearances. Being old fashioned, once a bearing is loosened, Im apt to replace them.

Thanks Kevin, how bad was taking the engine out the top?

[KHE]

I guess the only way not to waste money will be to inspect and check clearances. Being old fashioned, once a bearing is loosened, Im apt to replace them.

Thanks Kevin, how bad was taking the engine out the top?

Not that bad - The A/C pipe that goes between the accumulator and the evaporator is a PITA upon reinstalling the engine. Also, the rubber part of the front engine mount needs to be installed after the engine is bolted to the trans.

If the shop manual does not describe disassembling the lifter, I wouldn't do it. You never know if the components are not meant to be reused after disassembly.

[MrEldo97]

I've never disassebmled N* lifters. I've seen pics of them and they remind me of the "bucket" cam followers used by Alfa, Maserati and Jaguar - just an inverted bucket that fits over the valve stem and an adjusting shim that sits on the valve stem and under the cam follower/lifter. Not difficult justahelluvalotta work.

Even though I've b***hed about the head bolt problem I remain convinced that the Northstar is a world class motor the equal of the best motors on the market.

[Ranger]

Thanks Ranger, Ill check that out. My gut is that the studs when torqued just pull as opposed to the bolts that when tightened gall the threads.

Exactly what I was trying to say

I am concerned that the material surrounding the bolt hole threads is still good. I cant recall the member's name, but he worked for GM and he put a NS in a Fiero, but he had photos of flaky aluminum.

That would be AJxtcman. He is a Cadillac tech.

[MrEldo97]

Eldorado... Trans, side cover is leaking

If the tranny is leaking out of the drivers output shaft, that is NOT a seal, that is a shattered support bearing and this will kill the tranny. All to common problem on cars driven with any kind of verve

It's the side cover gasket, been leakin' for six months or more. I put tranny juice in the top and it runs out the bottom...

[joeb]

the balancer wobbles? i cannot see the inner portion being cockeyed from the crank. and no way the crank is bent. never seen that. maybe the rubber layer has failed somehow. no timing mark on the balancer either. no key either. goes on any which way. just make it tight. my balancer had a white paint stripe on it. maybe my motor was out before i got the car and the shop wanted to check timing with the cams? what are your plans for the car? plan on keeping it along time? going thru the motor is a major job. are you doing it for the next owner?

[Cadillac Jim]

Happy Birthday!

I was all ready to go with a long post. I read through them all but all the good information kept eroding my enthusiasm, and Kevin's post, #17, took all the wind out of my sails. I thoroughly agree with just about everything KHE has to say. So, I have just a few points to make.

ARGUMENTS FOR REBUILD OR REMAN

I'm a bit older than you, but this job is far over my physical threshold. If this is your daily driver, summer is here and the extensive detailed rebuild that you are laying out is probably going to take you a couple of months. If you go with a rebuild or a reman, you can have the car back in three days with a warranty.

I know it's better to know what you did yourself, but would you want a real estate appraiser to do this on your car who is doing it for the first time in his garage, no matter how good he is? If you do this yourself, that's in essence what you are doing.

The deep knock all the time sounds like it may be a main bearing knock. If a new damper wheel doesn't fix it, you may need to grind the crank. Undersize bearings are just about impossible to find for Northstars. The usual solution for this problem is a used crankshaft.

I think that between oil leaks, apparent oil pump wear (or main bearing clearance) causing oil light blinking, cams, lifters, etc. you are looking at a sequence of repairs that will likely cost as much as a rebuild.

You must keep a clean-room environment in assembling any engine, or you have the likelihood that a tiny metal particle from grinding or tapping or whatever, or, worse, a tiny carborundum particle, in your oil pump, bearings, lifter, or piston skirt.

IF YOU ARE GOING AHEAD WITH THE DIY REBUILD

That wobbly damper wheel is scary. It may be the cause of the main bearing knock and just fixing that could end all your major knock worries. In fact I would consider fixing that first with the engine in the car to see if that does do the trick. If so, you are left with Timesert, oil pump, and seals.

You can probably establish whether or not to even look at your engine bearings by sending an oil sample in for trace analysis. It's better not to bare those puppies to the air unless you really have to do that.

You will find that the whole job goes better if you take a little extra time and effort making the engine accessible. I would remove it from the car and put it on an engine stand.

I agree with Jan Olsson's point about studs. They may be far superior to Timeserts and bolts but we haven't heard from a lot of people here who have done that repair. Anyone? We all know that a Timesert, done carefully and with patience, is a reliable, permanent repair. Also, how would you like to be by yourself trying to thread a head onto those studs, knowing full well that a 1/4" mistake will scratch the head over the compression seal? It's a four-man job if done by hand, one on each end of the head to hold, one on each end of the head to guide.

The thing about oil pressure is that if you have any at all, then your bearings are safe. Over a period of more than a few seconds, you need enough flow to cool the pistons and lifters. If you don't tolerate running with the oil light on solid then you are not likely to have any bearing or lifter damage.

REGARDLESS OF WHERE YOUR NEW ENGINE COMES FROM

Last, but not least, get one of those magnets that wraps around your oil filter. Change the oil and filter at 500 miles or less. Keep using the magnet for about 10,000 miles.