Considering rebuilding my Northstar

[BodybyFisher]

Happy Birthday!

I was all ready to go with a long post. I read through them all but all the good information kept eroding my enthusiasm, and Kevin's post, #17, took all the wind out of my sails. I thoroughly agree with just about everything KHE has to say. So, I have just a few points to make.

ARGUMENTS FOR REBUILD OR REMAN

I'm a bit older than you, but this job is far over my physical threshold. If this is your daily driver, summer is here and the extensive detailed rebuild that you are laying out is probably going to take you a couple of months. If you go with a rebuild or a reman, you can have the car back in three days with a warranty.

I know it's better to know what you did yourself, but would you want a real estate appraiser to do this on your car who is doing it for the first time in his garage, no matter how good he is? If you do this yourself, that's in essence what you are doing.

The deep knock all the time sounds like it may be a main bearing knock. If a new damper wheel doesn't fix it, you may need to grind the crank. Undersize bearings are just about impossible to find for Northstars. The usual solution for this problem is a used crankshaft.

I think that between oil leaks, apparent oil pump wear (or main bearing clearance) causing oil light blinking, cams, lifters, etc. you are looking at a sequence of repairs that will likely cost as much as a rebuild.

You must keep a clean-room environment in assembling any engine, or you have the likelihood that a tiny metal particle from grinding or tapping or whatever, or, worse, a tiny carborundum particle, in your oil pump, bearings, lifter, or piston skirt.

IF YOU ARE GOING AHEAD WITH THE DIY REBUILD

That wobbly damper wheel is scary. It may be the cause of the main bearing knock and just fixing that could end all your major knock worries. In fact I would consider fixing that first with the engine in the car to see if that does do the trick. If so, you are left with Timesert, oil pump, and seals.

You can probably establish whether or not to even look at your engine bearings by sending an oil sample in for trace analysis. It's better not to bare those puppies to the air unless you really have to do that.

You will find that the whole job goes better if you take a little extra time and effort making the engine accessible. I would remove it from the car and put it on an engine stand.

I agree with Jan Olsson's point about studs. They may be far superior to Timeserts and bolts but we haven't heard from a lot of people here who have done that repair. Anyone? We all know that a Timesert, done carefully and with patience, is a reliable, permanent repair. Also, how would you like to be by yourself trying to thread a head onto those studs, knowing full well that a 1/4" mistake will scratch the head over the compression seal? It's a four-man job if done by hand, one on each end of the head to hold, one on each end of the head to guide.

The thing about oil pressure is that if you have any at all, then your bearings are safe. Over a period of more than a few seconds, you need enough flow to cool the pistons and lifters. If you don't tolerate running with the oil light on solid then you are not likely to have any bearing or lifter damage.

REGARDLESS OF WHERE YOUR NEW ENGINE COMES FROM

Last, but not least, get one of those magnets that wraps around your oil filter. Change the oil and filter at 500 miles or less. Keep using the magnet for about 10,000 miles.

Thanks for the Happy Birthday Jim.

Well you have scared me a bit with the Real Estate Appraiser statement

As you know, we have had a bunch of members do the pulled bolt repair. I don't think we have any members that have done the stud repair however. I have mixed feelings about the stud/timesert repair as to which is better. I am inclined to do the timesert method as it is the GM approved repair, but the stud method with 2 inches of coarser threads peaks my interest. Having had an interest in drag racing, those engines are studded. That I wont be able to remove the heads without removing he engine from the engine bay does not concern me as I will probably sell the car, right now its junk yard material, so I will be investing $1200 or so to get back $3500 or so. However, this is a challenge, and I like challenges and I want to videotape the job in HD.

The one thing that concerns me is that this is not just a timesert job for my engine, the knock and oil pressure problem complicates this repair. I have a very good engine rebuilder/machine shop that I spoke to, he re-did the heads on my 74 Eldorado back in the late 80's. I definately need to check piston and bearing clearances and I might just leave that up to the machine shop who has the required equipment for that purpose. On disassembly, it will be necessary to check the bearing clearances to spot a bad bearing.

I may have overstated my balancer 'wobble', it has runout, not sure how much, but I have heard others comment on this runout, if I recall, the guru said to ignore it.

[Cadillac Jim]

I think that chaning the damper wheel now to see if it fixes the internal knock is a good ideal. Also, send in an oil sample for analysis now. Between the two, you may be convinced not to go into the bearings. If you do go into the bearings, or change the cam an lifters, you can't be certain that you can keep the job under $1200. If you do, then you will have an interesting project and a magnificent video but you may not make any money for your time.

You might take a look at your cam chain tensioners, too. They are probably OK but what's a few minutes with a flashlight and a mirror?

[BodybyFisher]

I think that chaning the damper wheel now to see if it fixes the internal knock is a good ideal. Also, send in an oil sample for analysis now. Between the two, you may be convinced not to go into the bearings. If you do go into the bearings, or change the cam an lifters, you can't be certain that you can keep the job under $1200. If you do, then you will have an interesting project and a magnificent video but you may not make any money for your time.

You might take a look at your cam chain tensioners, too. They are probably OK but what's a few minutes with a flashlight and a mirror?

The only problem is, that I need to do the case half seal, that entails splitting the engine at the midpoint of the crankshaft and opening the bearings up.

There is NO WAY, even if the GURU says its ok, that I would NOT replace the main bearings when I split the engine to do the case half seal. As I said above, old bearings do not have CRUSH anymore in addition, if you know me, you know that while I am there, I will replace, what I can within reason.

Reviewing the FSM for knocking, they point to a rod bearing, while I am there and have the engine apart, why NOT replace them after checking their clearances?

My knocking began during a very cold winter, I can't help but think I damaged a bearing that winter

What I plan to do is to check each existing rod and main bearing with plastigage, a bad bearing will become obvious, if it is not visually obvious. I will have the machine shop check the pistons for correct clearances.

My intent is not to save money, it never is, its to do the job right, enjoy myself and present it to this board. If I need a CAM so be it.

I will work with my machine shop closely. This job is still months away

[BodybyFisher]

PS, here is interesting info on plastigage from their website

http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/

[MrEldo97]

Of course I can always sell my Eldorado for what I can get for it and buy a 2001 or 2002 in Diamond White, which is what my wife wants... The perfect ride would be one of those convertible conversions in Diamond White...

[Cadillac Jim]

MrEldo97 -- Months ago I posted that I knew of a 1994 Eldorado in diamond white that needed TimeSerts, 160,000 miles, and got no takers. If you like, I can ask if its been crushed yet, but I think it's gone. I thought about asking my wife about it, but she likes smaller cars and her Grand Am had only 40,000 miles on it.

BodyByFisher -- I didn't realize that the main bearings were bared when you split the case halves, but I should have checked the FSM because that's the way motorcycle engines work too.

You can make quick work of evaluating the crank by simply removing it and checking the rod and main journals for being in spec for roundness. If any of them is not round, the crank goes. Use the plastigage to check clearances with the bearings that you select for reassembly. There may be codes or assembly marks on the old bearings that will help you if the bearings are round. If you get a used crank, be sure and take your micrometer with you to check it before you take it, and get any assembly marks or codes from the engine it came out of.

[BodybyFisher]

MrEldo97 -- Months ago I posted that I knew of a 1994 Eldorado in diamond white that needed TimeSerts, 160,000 miles, and got no takers. If you like, I can ask if its been crushed yet, but I think it's gone. I thought about asking my wife about it, but she likes smaller cars and her Grand Am had only 40,000 miles on it.

BodyByFisher -- I didn't realize that the main bearings were bared when you split the case halves, but I should have checked the FSM because that's the way motorcycle engines work too.

You can make quick work of evaluating the crank by simply removing it and checking the rod and main journals for being in spec for roundness. If any of them is not round, the crank goes. Use the plastigage to check clearances with the bearings that you select for reassembly. There may be codes or assembly marks on the old bearings that will help you if the bearings are round. If you get a used crank, be sure and take your micrometer with you to check it before you take it, and get any assembly marks or codes from the engine it came out of.

hmm, I was just looking at the bearings, I wasn't considering looking at the crank at all. Ill have the machine shop check it out while its out

[MrEldo97]

Thanks for the thought Jim, but I'm afraid there's no more Timesert jobs in my future.

[Cadillac Jim]

Thanks for the thought Jim, but I'm afraid there's no more Timesert jobs in my future.

Yeah, when I was tempted I was thinking used engine. It was a VIN Y car. There was a time in my life when I would put the car under a tarp and the engine on a stand in the garage and tinker with it for months but those days are gone forever.

[Cadillac Jim]

MrEldo97 -- Months ago I posted that I knew of a 1994 Eldorado in diamond white that needed TimeSerts, 160,000 miles, and got no takers. If you like, I can ask if its been crushed yet, but I think it's gone. I thought about asking my wife about it, but she likes smaller cars and her Grand Am had only 40,000 miles on it.

BodyByFisher -- I didn't realize that the main bearings were bared when you split the case halves, but I should have checked the FSM because that's the way motorcycle engines work too.

You can make quick work of evaluating the crank by simply removing it and checking the rod and main journals for being in spec for roundness. If any of them is not round, the crank goes. Use the plastigage to check clearances with the bearings that you select for reassembly. There may be codes or assembly marks on the old bearings that will help you if the bearings are round. If you get a used crank, be sure and take your micrometer with you to check it before you take it, and get any assembly marks or codes from the engine it came out of.

hmm, I was just looking at the bearings, I wasn't considering looking at the crank at all. Ill have the machine shop check it out while its out

Yeah, it seems to me that the crank spec is necessary to decide whether to keep the crank, and if you see crank or rod bearings, you change crank or rod bearings. This is going to be interesting. If the crank is round, will the bearings all be OK visually? This may answer a lot of questions: our own Caddyinfo documented high-mileage teardown and inspection.

[BodybyFisher]

Its going to be interesting. I think I am going to purchase a junker, to use while I do this job. I really would like to use the studs, but Kevin has me sold on the sanctioned GM repair being timeserts and I am nervous to buck the norm (no pun intended (Norm's Inserts))

[KHE]

Have you verified that your head gaskets are bad? If the head gaskets are OK, then you could pull the trans and replace the case half seal with the engine in the car. The bearings should be able to be replaced with the engine in the car as well. I would think you could check the cams by pulling the cam covers - mic the cams without removing them.

The tech that used to frequent this site replaced case half seals by removing the trans in order to access the oil pan and case half seals.

[BodybyFisher]

Have you verified that your head gaskets are bad? If the head gaskets are OK, then you could pull the trans and replace the case half seal with the engine in the car. The bearings should be able to be replaced with the engine in the car as well. I would think you could check the cams by pulling the cam covers - mic the cams without removing them.

The tech that used to frequent this site replaced case half seals by removing the trans in order to access the oil pan and case half seals.

I have not done any extensive testing yet, but I have a really bad miss that goes away after a few minutes, coolant smell, and steam out of the exhaust on start up and coolant loss and overheating in 75 degree weather that goes to 235 degrees in moderate traffic.

Im going to yank the engine and tear it down, the question is when.

Kevin how difficult was it to remove the engine from the top? Did you put your NS on an engine stand?

[MrEldo97]

"There was a time in my life when I would put the car under a tarp and the engine on a stand in the garage and tinker with it for months but those days are gone forever." I'll drink to that! I have some heavy shop equipment I'm going to put on craigslist when I get off my a**. My hoist, heavy duty engine stand, mig welder and some other tools. My days of pulling and rebuilding motors are over - unless some one brings their's and puts t on the stand for me...

About cranks and cams; I always miced them in four spots on each journal. This always served me well. Yes, there is bearing crush and once the caps are removed it's time for new bearings.

[Texas Jim]

About cranks and cams; I always miced them in four spots on each journal. This always served me well.

Yes, there is bearing crush and once the caps are removed it's time for new bearings.

I agree totally...^^^^^ That is a true statement.

[Jan Olsson]

"Perhaps they should have made a Slowstar?"

Ohhh...I don't know about that...

I got used to my N* rappin' and bangin' on cold start up. Of course in Tampa Bay it doesn't get that cold.

When I had it apart during my Timesert job I cleaned all of the carbon out of the heads and off the piston tops.

The d**n thing really took off when I got it all back together. It's amazing what exacting cam timing will do for a N*.

Even 100F is cold for an engine

Did you have a lot of carbon?

[Jan Olsson]

I think that chaning the damper wheel now to see if it fixes the internal knock is a good ideal. Also, send in an oil sample for analysis now. Between the two, you may be convinced not to go into the bearings. If you do go into the bearings, or change the cam an lifters, you can't be certain that you can keep the job under $1200. If you do, then you will have an interesting project and a magnificent video but you may not make any money for your time.

You might take a look at your cam chain tensioners, too. They are probably OK but what's a few minutes with a flashlight and a mirror?

The only problem is, that I need to do the case half seal, that entails splitting the engine at the midpoint of the crankshaft and opening the bearings up.

There is NO WAY, even if the GURU says its ok, that I would NOT replace the main bearings when I split the engine to do the case half seal. As I said above, old bearings do not have CRUSH anymore in addition, if you know me, you know that while I am there, I will replace, what I can within reason.

Reviewing the FSM for knocking, they point to a rod bearing, while I am there and have the engine apart, why NOT replace them after checking their clearances?

My knocking began during a very cold winter, I can't help but think I damaged a bearing that winter

What I plan to do is to check each existing rod and main bearing with plastigage, a bad bearing will become obvious, if it is not visually obvious. I will have the machine shop check the pistons for correct clearances.

My intent is not to save money, it never is, its to do the job right, enjoy myself and present it to this board. If I need a CAM so be it.

I will work with my machine shop closely. This job is still months away

I would only replace leaking seals and seals you have to remove otherwise I wouldn't bother with them. If you have leaks from rotational seals I would be sure to check the radial runout on that particular shaft. Replacing the seal doesn't do much good if the reason for leaking is a bad bearing.

I would be very surpriced if you could see any real signs of wear in your engine. I would only bother to have the valves and seats checked and in your case perhaps crankshaft bearings, otherwise I would leave it alone.

Is the knock present under load or is it present when running light?

I remember someone showing pictures to the guru from his engine rebuilding to the point that the guru asked why he was replacing of asking about perfectly fine parts. Do the fixes, drive and forget about it

[Jan Olsson]

Some other thoughts abouth studs versus bolts.

There is (almost) no difference in price between the two solutions from a manufacturer point of view. The same holes has to be made (threaded in the block and through hole in the head).

Then why don't use studs? Simply because there is no benefit! Just a downside when trying to remove the heads with engine in place.

When you have the engine out on an engine hoist it isn't difficult at all to insert the time-serts. Just time consuming.

The risk is that it is easy to loosen the studs by mistake (with ruined threads). With bolts you know that you have to install time-serts to repair the threads.

The stud threads aren't as strong as stud threads because they are cut, not rolled. The stud itself is perhaps stronger than the original bolt but whats the point with that? Ever heard of a broken bolt on a Northstar?

Many seems concerned about the galling/sticking with the threads. It is the reason for threads being ruined when removing the bolts. EXACTLY the same will happen with the studs or even worser because they don't seem to have any prohibiting coating on the threads. It is the contact pressure in the threads combined with temperature and time that makes the galling develop. Try to remove a bolt from a freshly made hole, no aluminium on the threads right? (if you're careful)

What's the difference with a bolt running in a time sert compared to a nut clamping on the head (when using studs)? None...the Timesert is steel. Steel to steel works just fine. When inserting the Timesert you really don't apply any REAL torque to it.

[Jan Olsson]

14) If you go with studs you can avoid the fancy torque wrench For the rods it is better to measure bolt stretch anyway. You will need a power steering puller/installer to remove the water pump pulley

Good luck!

I assume you're saying that an ordinary torque wrench is ok? In that case you are wrong.

With the torque wrench you can only monitor what torque you applie to the bolt, not how much pre tention you get because the friction can vary quite a bit even in the same material with the same lubrication. This is why the angle method is used. No difference at all if you have a stud or bolt or whatever.

With the angle method you apply a small torque to make sure the mating surfaces in the joint is mated (just like when you turn your oil-filter until you feel the rubber seal "stop" and turn another 2/3 turns or whatever). The angle is directly proportional to the pre tension in the joint. Can't compare that to using an ordinary torque wrench.

[BodybyFisher]

Thanks for your thoughts guys, this is exactly why I started this thread, to brainstorm

[KHE]

Have you verified that your head gaskets are bad? If the head gaskets are OK, then you could pull the trans and replace the case half seal with the engine in the car. The bearings should be able to be replaced with the engine in the car as well. I would think you could check the cams by pulling the cam covers - mic the cams without removing them.

The tech that used to frequent this site replaced case half seals by removing the trans in order to access the oil pan and case half seals.

I have not done any extensive testing yet, but I have a really bad miss that goes away after a few minutes, coolant smell, and steam out of the exhaust on start up and coolant loss and overheating in 75 degree weather that goes to 235 degrees in moderate traffic.

Im going to yank the engine and tear it down, the question is when.

Kevin how difficult was it to remove the engine from the top? Did you put your NS on an engine stand?

Mike, It wasn't that bad to pull the engine from the top. Instead of removing the hood, I removed the right side wiper and disconnected the hood support struts. That allowed me to raise the hood to a vertical position where I tied it off to my garage door track. I'm not sure if that will work for the Deville but it is worth a try - less risk of damaging the hood. If you do need to remove the hood, be sure to have a helper.

I put my engine on a stand. It made it so much easier to do the work. I needed to buy bolts that were longer than the engine to trans. bolts to do the job. I can measure them up for you and post back. You will also need some spacers so the engine stand brackets don't contact the trans. alignment dowels.

[BodybyFisher]

Have you verified that your head gaskets are bad? If the head gaskets are OK, then you could pull the trans and replace the case half seal with the engine in the car. The bearings should be able to be replaced with the engine in the car as well. I would think you could check the cams by pulling the cam covers - mic the cams without removing them.

The tech that used to frequent this site replaced case half seals by removing the trans in order to access the oil pan and case half seals.

I have not done any extensive testing yet, but I have a really bad miss that goes away after a few minutes, coolant smell, and steam out of the exhaust on start up and coolant loss and overheating in 75 degree weather that goes to 235 degrees in moderate traffic.

Im going to yank the engine and tear it down, the question is when.

Kevin how difficult was it to remove the engine from the top? Did you put your NS on an engine stand?

Mike, It wasn't that bad to pull the engine from the top. Instead of removing the hood, I removed the right side wiper and disconnected the hood support struts. That allowed me to raise the hood to a vertical position where I tied it off to my garage door track. I'm not sure if that will work for the Deville but it is worth a try - less risk of damaging the hood. If you do need to remove the hood, be sure to have a helper.

I put my engine on a stand. It made it so much easier to do the work. I needed to buy bolts that were longer than the engine to trans. bolts to do the job. I can measure them up for you and post back. You will also need some spacers so the engine stand brackets don't contact the trans. alignment dowels.

Thanks Kevin, I recall that you tied your hood up. Glad to hear it was not bad to remove the engine from the top.

A thought, once I remove the engine, I guess I could put the hub bearings back on (without the axles) put the tires back on, and roll the car out of the garage, what do you think about that thought?

[jlinde]

Have you verified that your head gaskets are bad? If the head gaskets are OK, then you could pull the trans and replace the case half seal with the engine in the car. The bearings should be able to be replaced with the engine in the car as well. I would think you could check the cams by pulling the cam covers - mic the cams without removing them.

The tech that used to frequent this site replaced case half seals by removing the trans in order to access the oil pan and case half seals.

I have not done any extensive testing yet, but I have a really bad miss that goes away after a few minutes, coolant smell, and steam out of the exhaust on start up and coolant loss and overheating in 75 degree weather that goes to 235 degrees in moderate traffic.

Im going to yank the engine and tear it down, the question is when.

Kevin how difficult was it to remove the engine from the top? Did you put your NS on an engine stand?

Mike, It wasn't that bad to pull the engine from the top. Instead of removing the hood, I removed the right side wiper and disconnected the hood support struts. That allowed me to raise the hood to a vertical position where I tied it off to my garage door track. I'm not sure if that will work for the Deville but it is worth a try - less risk of damaging the hood. If you do need to remove the hood, be sure to have a helper.

I put my engine on a stand. It made it so much easier to do the work. I needed to buy bolts that were longer than the engine to trans. bolts to do the job. I can measure them up for you and post back. You will also need some spacers so the engine stand brackets don't contact the trans. alignment dowels.

Thanks Kevin, I recall that you tied your hood up. Glad to hear it was not bad to remove the engine from the top.

A thought, once I remove the engine, I guess I could put the hub bearings back on (without the axles) put the tires back on, and roll the car out of the garage, what do you think about that thought?

Hi, I have done one timesert on my 93 Eldo with just lifting the engine only and one on a 94 STS where the engine and trans were out of the car

when I bought it so I put in a replacement engine and trans from above. The axles were out of the car and it was easy to put them back and the car

was rollable. I think I had to take the master cylinder away in this case.

My garage will not allow enough lifting of the body so I had to use this method.

I have also lifted a 99 Northstar engine but space is much more limited on those newer ones.(Had to take the crank balancer bolt away)

Just wanted to tell you that it wasn't too timeconsuming to lift the engine only.

Good luck./Jan L

[KHE]

Have you verified that your head gaskets are bad? If the head gaskets are OK, then you could pull the trans and replace the case half seal with the engine in the car. The bearings should be able to be replaced with the engine in the car as well. I would think you could check the cams by pulling the cam covers - mic the cams without removing them.

The tech that used to frequent this site replaced case half seals by removing the trans in order to access the oil pan and case half seals.

I have not done any extensive testing yet, but I have a really bad miss that goes away after a few minutes, coolant smell, and steam out of the exhaust on start up and coolant loss and overheating in 75 degree weather that goes to 235 degrees in moderate traffic.

Im going to yank the engine and tear it down, the question is when.

Kevin how difficult was it to remove the engine from the top? Did you put your NS on an engine stand?

Mike, It wasn't that bad to pull the engine from the top. Instead of removing the hood, I removed the right side wiper and disconnected the hood support struts. That allowed me to raise the hood to a vertical position where I tied it off to my garage door track. I'm not sure if that will work for the Deville but it is worth a try - less risk of damaging the hood. If you do need to remove the hood, be sure to have a helper.

I put my engine on a stand. It made it so much easier to do the work. I needed to buy bolts that were longer than the engine to trans. bolts to do the job. I can measure them up for you and post back. You will also need some spacers so the engine stand brackets don't contact the trans. alignment dowels.

Thanks Kevin, I recall that you tied your hood up. Glad to hear it was not bad to remove the engine from the top.

A thought, once I remove the engine, I guess I could put the hub bearings back on (without the axles) put the tires back on, and roll the car out of the garage, what do you think about that thought?

If you're pulling the engine from the top, you will separate it from the trans. while the engine is still in the car. The trans. and axles, etc will remain in the car so yes - you could roll it outside the garage. Set the parking brake and/or chalk the wheels as there won't be anything to keep the car from rolling. The front will ride high without the weight of the engine in there.

You will need to remove the brackets off the neutral safety switch on top of the trans in order to remove the cables. Use a marking pen to mark the parts so you do not lose the alignment.

[BodybyFisher]

Have you verified that your head gaskets are bad? If the head gaskets are OK, then you could pull the trans and replace the case half seal with the engine in the car. The bearings should be able to be replaced with the engine in the car as well. I would think you could check the cams by pulling the cam covers - mic the cams without removing them.

The tech that used to frequent this site replaced case half seals by removing the trans in order to access the oil pan and case half seals.

I have not done any extensive testing yet, but I have a really bad miss that goes away after a few minutes, coolant smell, and steam out of the exhaust on start up and coolant loss and overheating in 75 degree weather that goes to 235 degrees in moderate traffic.

Im going to yank the engine and tear it down, the question is when.

Kevin how difficult was it to remove the engine from the top? Did you put your NS on an engine stand?

Mike, It wasn't that bad to pull the engine from the top. Instead of removing the hood, I removed the right side wiper and disconnected the hood support struts. That allowed me to raise the hood to a vertical position where I tied it off to my garage door track. I'm not sure if that will work for the Deville but it is worth a try - less risk of damaging the hood. If you do need to remove the hood, be sure to have a helper.

I put my engine on a stand. It made it so much easier to do the work. I needed to buy bolts that were longer than the engine to trans. bolts to do the job. I can measure them up for you and post back. You will also need some spacers so the engine stand brackets don't contact the trans. alignment dowels.

Thanks Kevin, I recall that you tied your hood up. Glad to hear it was not bad to remove the engine from the top.

A thought, once I remove the engine, I guess I could put the hub bearings back on (without the axles) put the tires back on, and roll the car out of the garage, what do you think about that thought?

If you're pulling the engine from the top, you will separate it from the trans. while the engine is still in the car. The trans. and axles, etc will remain in the car so yes - you could roll it outside the garage. Set the parking brake and/or chalk the wheels as there won't be anything to keep the car from rolling. The front will ride high without the weight of the engine in there.

You will need to remove the brackets off the neutral safety switch on top of the trans in order to remove the cables. Use a marking pen to mark the parts so you do not lose the alignment.

AHHH, yes!, I forgot, the axles will remain in place...thanks for clearing that up!

You helped me with the shift/neutral safety switch when I tilted my engine and I didnt experience any problems.

Thanks