BUICK11 Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 I had the oil changed at my local Buick Dealer with one of their top Technicans. He advised that our 1999 SLS had a oil pan leak and it appeared to be the pan may be porous and the leak was coming right through the metal of the pan. (excuse my spelling) Would appreciate it if anyone has any experience or thoughts on the pan leaking because it is porous. He suggest another inspection at the Cadillac Dealer. Thanks Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonA Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 I've not heard of that before. I believe the pan IS aluminum, so it IS possible. Aluminum is a relatively porous material compared with steel...but still. I've never heard of that before and find it hard to believe. Anything can happen though... Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond) "When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 I would think they would have grease monkeys on the oil rack as opposed to a "top tech". Porous oil pan? The diagnosis sounds a bit porous to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 Any drips or drops or seepage of oil that reach the bottom of the pan may appear to originate with the pan because of road-draft. An inexperienced eye could be confused. There is no oil pressure involved at that point, and porosity of the aluminum pan is highly unlikely. Your Buick tech. would have a heart attack if he looked at the bottom of my engine. And as there are Buicks on the road with a version of the Northstar engine installed, the techs. at that dealership will get comfortable with seeing a wet bottom end pretty quick. I consider the seepage to be an automatic/continuous rust proofing for the cradle and exhaust pieces. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 Any drips or drops or seepage of oil that reach the bottom of the pan may appear to originate with the pan because of road-draft. An inexperienced eye could be confused. There is no oil pressure involved at that point, and porosity of the aluminum pan is highly unlikely. Your Buick tech. would have a heart attack if he looked at the bottom of my engine. And as there are Buicks on the road with a version of the Northstar engine installed, the techs. at that dealership will get comfortable with seeing a wet bottom end pretty quick. I consider the seepage to be an automatic/continuous rust proofing for the cradle and exhaust pieces. There's nothing like a leaking pan to keep the rust away, except when you're at a traffic light and you can't see anything but smoke. The rust proofing part needs a good draft to blow all that oil back. A pan leak can cause an oil glaze effect on the bottom of the pan that the tech thinks is porosity. Maybe the pan is cracked--but mass porosity? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wiz6728 Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 i never look at an oil leak that way it makes me feel better bout mine.as long as it dont leave a spot Wiz DRIVE IT LIKE YOU own it!!!!!! 1967 chevy II ( FOR SALE!!!!) 1995 Lexus Es 300 1998 SLS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 I think that this particular Buick dealer is in the Twilight Zone. Be afraid. Be very afraid. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac-etc Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 my first thought is no way is oil seeping THROUGH your pan. second thought is that i am always willing to be wrong (it's happened) ............... third thought, NO WAY. (please insert your favorite verbal intensifier between the "NO" and the "WAY") Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarrenJ Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 I enjoyed the humor. REALLY! Porous oil pan; that's a yuck. Put an ounce of oil in an aluminum shot glass (don't forget the Bars Leak!) cover it and place it on a shelf. Have a look at it a few years hence. I'd wager you there wouldn't be a ring around the "glass" on your 50th wedding anniversary. Sheesh! In a previous life (a few decades ago) I was in the consumer electronics business. One of our home service technicians (?) used to tell our customers who had difficulty with their TV reception that their problems were caused by ice on the broadcast antenna on the Empire State Building. Not kidding! I don't recall what his excuse was in the Spring. Assuming for a moment that the pan *WAS* somewhat porous, would you expect an amount of accumulation that might even be noticeable? Yeah, that's what I thought. Jim_97_ETC is correct about the zone . . . and it ain't Auto Zone (but it might have been)! Regards, Warren There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BUICK11 Posted October 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 Thanks very much for the comments. I do trust this tech of 30 years a lot but going to take car to Cadillc dealer for Pa state inspection soon. Will have the experts at Cadillac dealer check it out. Fortunately still under GMPP Major Guard. Tanks Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 Most oil leaks at the pan are around the bolts or at the gasket. You might try to snug up the bolts but there are about 2 that are near to impossible to get to. I too have a leak at the gasket and have experienced smoke. My 94 Deville does not have a rust spot anywhere on the under carriage. A girl at a drive thru was frightened one time when the wind blew the smoke between me and her. She ask, "Sir is your car on fire?" and I said "yes" and drove off. You should have seen her face, priceless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 I will say this, I think my pan might be cracked from when my springs and struts were weak, I bottomed out really badly in Brooklyn on a side street speed bump that I didnt see. I have bad scratches and possible cracks near the drain bolt. I have kept an eye on it, and thought that if it was leaking I would use JB Weld on it, but I am not sure how well it will hold up in and OIL environment Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackc Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 I will say this, I think my pan might be cracked from when my springs and struts were weak, I bottomed out really badly in Brooklyn on a side street speed bump that I didnt see. I have bad scratches and possible cracks near the drain bolt. I have kept an eye on it, and thought that if it was leaking I would use JB Weld on it, but I am not sure how well it will hold up in and OIL environment I went through this. See this thread...... http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...amp;#entry32979 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 I will say this, I think my pan might be cracked from when my springs and struts were weak, I bottomed out really badly in Brooklyn on a side street speed bump that I didnt see. I have bad scratches and possible cracks near the drain bolt. I have kept an eye on it, and thought that if it was leaking I would use JB Weld on it, but I am not sure how well it will hold up in and OIL environment I went through this. See this thread...... http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...amp;#entry32979 Thanks Jack Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonjaab Posted October 27, 2007 Report Share Posted October 27, 2007 Seems the Ford guys over in the snowplowing forums are having major oil pan rust out problems on their late model trucks: http://www.letstalksnow.com/forums/showthr...rust&page=2 thats just one of many threads............Funny ....don't note any of this issue with the GM trucks tho. 93 DeVille-13 Chevy Impala 72 GTO - 77 Triumph Bonneville 84 Z-28 Syracuse NY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjensen Posted February 19, 2009 Report Share Posted February 19, 2009 I will say this, I think my pan might be cracked from when my springs and struts were weak, I bottomed out really badly in Brooklyn on a side street speed bump that I didnt see. I have bad scratches and possible cracks near the drain bolt. I have kept an eye on it, and thought that if it was leaking I would use JB Weld on it, but I am not sure how well it will hold up in and OIL environment I recently saw a post by you on how to manage excessive oil leakage but I can't find the post. Help. Just today my new mechanic (extended warranty up at 48k) told me my oil leak on my 2002 DTS with 54k is from main seal (front and back?) and oil pan gasket. He said around $1400 to fix!! I've seen elsewhere to change to 10w30 and perfom WOT but your post seemed best. Any help? Thanks much Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 19, 2009 Report Share Posted February 19, 2009 How bad is the leak? try a high mileage oil. the high mileage oils have seal conditioners in them that will condition your seals, you might dodge a bullet. your 02 takes 5W30 correct? Try a 5W30 high mileage if its available, but you could bump up to 10w30 high mileage for a few oil changes if its not available in that viscosity. Are you losing a lot of oil? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 20, 2009 Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 John sent me a PM on his oil consumption here it is: 2002 DTS with 54k (extended warranty ran out at 48k) leaking oil so I went to a new mechanic after my dealership recently closed. Mechanic told me front and back main gaskets were leaking as well as oil pan gasket, he could fix for $1400. Needless to say overwhelmed at the thought BUT I came across your post on oil consumption, oil mgt and WOT. Will switch to 10w30 High Mile oil tommorrow and perform WOT. WEhat about a collant change and what kind to use? Read somewhere that this would help as well. Last changed almost 3 years ago. I hope this all helps andI just wanted to say thanks for the info b/c there are some people out there (me) who know zip about cars but I do love my DTS! BBF Response The coolant change is good but it won't help you oil consumption. Make sure you use the HIGH MILEAGE OIL, it may help to condition your seals. You never said how much oil you were leaking is it bad? This is the same thing that you posted to the board. Mike JOHN Response Thanks Mike. Leaking about 1.5 quarts every 1500k. - I did post this on the board but than I found that missing post of yours and I figured I would go right to the source. Just koined CaddyInfo 2nite, should have joined eons ago. BBF Response John, 1.5 quarts every 1500 miles is not bad at all. Try the high mileage oil, and drive the hell out of it. DO NOT let the OIL LOW light come on, when it comes on bring the level up to the tip of the stick. You dont need to fill it to the top of the stick just wet the ball at the tip... Do you change your OWN oil? It may be hard to find a shop to give you HIGH MILEAGE OIL, you might need to bring it. If its not leaking on the ground dont worry about it, my guess is that you will improve greatly with 10W30 and high mileage oil. The WOT PROCEDURRE will help a lot. Do you know the WOT PROCEDURE? Im going to post this to the board, Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyG Posted February 21, 2009 Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 As to the original post, concerning the porous oil pan, jackc's reply is correct. Any aluminum casting, pre2000, can be porous to a degree. MOST likely though, your mechanic may be confused with the POROUS BLOCK Castings prior to 2000. I think porous blocks were more common than porous oil pans, but don't really have any facts to support that. The fix is cheap, and exactly what jackc's post says. The only thing that I might add is that the surface needs to be EXTREMELY clean for the JB Weld to adhere completely to the casting. So the correct method to fix this is to drain the oil. Preferably someplace where the temperatures will stay above 60°F overnight. Clean the surface near the leak with a solvent. Sand the surface smooth with a course grit sandpaper. Clean the area again with a solvent and let it dry. Apply the JB Weld and let it cure overnight before refilling the engine with oil, and you should be good for another 100,000 miles. If you don't want to go through all that now, here's a shortcut that MIGHT work, but the JB is the best choice: Find the exact spot of the pinhole leak. Take a light hammer and a dull centerpunch chisel and peen the surrounding metal gently into the pinhole. I've seen this method work on steel pressure vessels, and it should buy you time until you can use the JB method. Never underestimate the amount of a persons greed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyG Posted February 21, 2009 Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 Of course here we go again. Replying to a post from October of 2007! Never underestimate the amount of a persons greed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjensen Posted February 22, 2009 Report Share Posted February 22, 2009 John sent me a PM on his oil consumption here it is: 2002 DTS with 54k (extended warranty ran out at 48k) leaking oil so I went to a new mechanic after my dealership recently closed. Mechanic told me front and back main gaskets were leaking as well as oil pan gasket, he could fix for $1400. Needless to say overwhelmed at the thought BUT I came across your post on oil consumption, oil mgt and WOT. Will switch to 10w30 High Mile oil tommorrow and perform WOT. WEhat about a collant change and what kind to use? Read somewhere that this would help as well. Last changed almost 3 years ago. I hope this all helps andI just wanted to say thanks for the info b/c there are some people out there (me) who know zip about cars but I do love my DTS! BBF Response The coolant change is good but it won't help you oil consumption. Make sure you use the HIGH MILEAGE OIL, it may help to condition your seals. You never said how much oil you were leaking is it bad? This is the same thing that you posted to the board. Mike JOHN Response Thanks Mike. Leaking about 1.5 quarts every 1500k. - I did post this on the board but than I found that missing post of yours and I figured I would go right to the source. Just koined CaddyInfo 2nite, should have joined eons ago. BBF Response John, 1.5 quarts every 1500 miles is not bad at all. Try the high mileage oil, and drive the hell out of it. DO NOT let the OIL LOW light come on, when it comes on bring the level up to the tip of the stick. You dont need to fill it to the top of the stick just wet the ball at the tip... Do you change your OWN oil? It may be hard to find a shop to give you HIGH MILEAGE OIL, you might need to bring it. If its not leaking on the ground dont worry about it, my guess is that you will improve greatly with 10W30 and high mileage oil. The WOT PROCEDURRE will help a lot. Do you know the WOT PROCEDURE? Im going to post this to the board, Mike I post this with fingers crossed and knocking on wood but I changed to a high mileage oil 10w30, perfomed the WOT procedure and no oil leak for 2 days now! Thanks for the help Mike, glad I found this forum....John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 22, 2009 Report Share Posted February 22, 2009 John, by the way do you know if you were using MOBIL 1 or synthetic oil? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjensen Posted February 22, 2009 Report Share Posted February 22, 2009 John, by the way do you know if you were using MOBIL 1 or synthetic oil? Pennzoil High Mileage 10w30, had read that synthetics not necessary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.