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About jackc

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    Enthusiast (250+ posts)

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  1. I'd doubt that a dealer installed moonroof would wind up linked to a VIN number. Back in the day, I had to deal with a headliner in a 75 Monte Carlo with a factory sunroof and it wasn't any better than what you're describing. The material it used was the perforated vinyl that was common then, but none of the usual bows were used to hang it. It was hooked under the trim bead for the hatch opening in the middle and stretched & glued to the sides, front, and back. But it sounds even worse in your case since you're dealing with the foam-backed cloth that really has no stretch-strength
  2. You need to fix the pressure leak if you haven't already - you won't get maximum cooling without maximum pressure. Pressure test the cap too. Ones that fail can look fine. I'd probably put a fresh stat in it too. The exhaust crud makes me wonder if she's getting enough exercise.
  3. There were some guys in Dallas a few years ago that got an old Lincoln bubble-top or convertible and were selling trips on the Kennedy assassination route. They'd speed off to Parkland at the end. Thought that was pretty tacky.....
  4. I'd want to troubleshoot the system myself before giving up on it. Are you certain the compressor is bad? Could just be a bad connection, or a problem with the rear height sensor. And the bags on the shocks are pretty tough. Not to say that they don't go bad, but a problem with the air lines is more likely. Pretty sure there are o-rings to check. Maybe you can get it all going again without spending alot of money. If you can, air it up and get under it with a spray bottle full of soapy water. Spray the lines and look for bubbles.
  5. On a 93 (and I assume a 94), there is another connection to check - where the manifold harness plugs into the main harness. The manifold harnesses (pretty sure there are 2) exit the bottom of the manifold just forward of the throttle body, where they go down and plug in (to the left of the throttle body - if you're standing at the drivers fender looking in). Just feel around the bottom of the manifold for the harnesses and follow them down to the plugs. As for the issue of this being a Texas car, it is important to know if you've removed the empty beer cans from the back seat. Texas cars b
  6. FYI - The 93-94 manifold cover bolts have collars above the threads that bottom-out when tightening the bolts. There should not be a danger of overcompressing the rubber grommets. The low torque value is to keep you from pulling the threads in the manifold.
  7. On my 93 there was a plastic vacuum harness that I had to replace. I forget exactly what it is called, but am recalling that the evap purge system was involved. It was in the area between the throttle body and the firewall. It consisted of several thin plastic tubes that had become brittle and cracked. Seems like there was one long tube that went along the rear valve cover too.
  8. I've done the EGR cleaning on a 93, which uses the same intake as a 94. The EGR passages are cast into the heads. The phenolic spacers sit between the heads and the intake, and form the top of the passages. To clean the passages, you need to get the intake up (or off, as I did) and scrape out the passages. You'll need a shop vac to suck out the scrapings. There are small holes that go from the passages to each cylinder, and also holes at the end of the passages that go into the crossover pipe (water log) that the EGR valve mounts to. To remove the intake, its only necessary to remov
  9. You probably need to replace the rubber PCV grommet in the valve cover
  10. When you get the lid off of the intake manifold, you'll find that it's probably impossible to see the bottoms of the injectors with everything in place and pressurized. The 95-up models are much easier to work with from that standpoint, because the fuel rail is no longer inside the plenum box.
  11. My 93 would occasionally start running rough out of the clear blue. Each time, it was due to a bad coil. You can check the coils using the on-board power balance test. This test lets you kill power to the fuel injectors one-at-a-time. If a cylinder is working correctly, the idle will drop when you kill an injector. If the idle does not drop, there is a problem with that cylinder. Note that the RPM drop is very subtle - you may have to run through the test a few times to notice the difference. If you find 2 cylinders with problems, look to see if they're on the same coil. If they are,
  12. Just a note of caution if this car is carbureted (quick reasearch show it could be either carbed, or TBI) - If the car still has the original carb, do not exchange it for a rebuilt. The rebuilts are all too often built from piles of parts that may or may not be those originally spec'd for your car. The cores they start with could be questionable as well. If you decide the fuel system needs attention, find a competent quadrajet rebuilder to go through the carb for you - or DIY if you're up to the task. Q-Jet calibration is all about having the right pieces.
  13. I was wondering if we have any 280 Z guys here. Been thinking about picking one up as a toy, probably somewhere in the 1975 to 1980 range. Don't know much about 'em, except they don't seem to cost much. Appreciate any info anyone might have......
  14. Just Dashes could probably remanufacture it for you, or may have a repro available. Probably pricey, though... http://www.justdashes.com/Products.htm
  15. Mike, you and I are in complete agreement on this point. But I would add that the consolidation of wealth that has occurred in our country over the last 20 years is also a significant problem that threatens the long-term viability of the American society. Opportunities are drying up for those of us who are not master aggregators of wealth. Small businesses are failing right and left, with their former roles in society being assumed by ever-larger conglomerates in which the leaders are ever-more distanced from the daily plight of those they employ. Projected out to its logical conslusion,
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