Boy oh boy, do I have problems!

[mmarinov]

BodybyFisher, Your welcome. I am two weeks into this blog and have realized the knowledge you have and all the members already. I have 126k on my car and the error codes are starting. I realize this will happen and want to glean the knowledge of the group of people to do these repairs. I really need a good manual, sounds like some get some errant versions. I have numerous questions on my car and need to understand longevity of these sophisticated cars. My last car was a SSEi and sold it with 230,000 miles...did very few repairs....loved the car, but is no caddy. This is a new chapter for me and first caddy. The Northstar worries me with it's sophistication. I change oil 3-4 k miles and Wix filters. I use regular 5-30 oil no synthetics yet. As long as I need to change the filter Imize well change the oil and keep my eye on things. I will need to do my brakes, being the brake boyz break all the sensor wires. I know this is a loaded question, but can I expect 300k on this engine? I know they have oil usage issues and I need to add a quart every 1,000 miles.....this bothers me but sounds to be on par?

A little history

John

OK, where to start. If I mention something that you know already or is a repeat excuse me.

Codes, looking back it looks like you know how to retrieve codes. If you don't know, you can retrieve them through the on board computer via DIC, here is a link to how to retrieve codes:

http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html

Your car is OBDII, you get the meaning of your codes here:

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd2.html

You can download your owner's manual (the one in your glove box) here. What is nice about having it is that you can quickly search through it to find what you are looking for. It is a PDF file and you use Adobe Acrobat to view and search it:

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/resources-cad.html#om

Factory Service Manual (FSM)

You can buy one at http://www.helminc.com they were having a 50% off sale you might want to check. You might also find one on EBAY.. You can't live without it if you do your own work. Don't opt for Chiltons or the like they are for DIY oil changers. Helm currently has a service manual for the SEVILLE for $67.50 (a great price) http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?c...1W0CKHG8T1LFCQ7

Oil consumption, your consumption in my opinion is a little high. Check for leaks first. Snug up your pan bolts. Consider a 10W30 in the summer. When I got my car, I was also using oil at a high rate and saw the low oil message a couple of times. It was owned by a gentleman that I would say babied it. Not good. This is a high performance engine that loves to be beat. Once I started doing the WOT procedure and driving it hard my consumption improved. Do a search under WOT (wide open throttle). See this article it was written by someone who is very knowledgeable with the NS:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/cadillac-tech.html#noil

Oil Changes, you say you change oil every 3 to 4K. Not necessary. Your car has an OLM (Oil Life Monitor). If you don't use your OLM you should. See my post #12 in this thread for an explanation of how it works (from guru): http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...0406&hl=olm

Will the engine last? We have some that have gone high 200K's. Can the head gaskets go at some point? Yep. If it does, you will get it repaired correctly (timeserts) and have a bullet proof engine. Most important thing is changing the coolant, keep the DEXCOOL fresh and use the cooling supplement.

Hope this helps

BodybyFisher, Your welcome. I am two weeks into this blog and have realized the knowledge you have and all the members already. I have 126k on my car and the error codes are starting. I realize this will happen and want to glean the knowledge of the group of people to do these repairs. I really need a good manual, sounds like some get some errant versions. I have numerous questions on my car and need to understand longevity of these sophisticated cars. My last car was a SSEi and sold it with 230,000 miles...did very few repairs....loved the car, but is no caddy. This is a new chapter for me and first caddy. The Northstar worries me with it's sophistication. I change oil 3-4 k miles and Wix filters. I use regular 5-30 oil no synthetics yet. As long as I need to change the filter Imize well change the oil and keep my eye on things. I will need to do my brakes, being the brake boyz break all the sensor wires. I know this is a loaded question, but can I expect 300k on this engine? I know they have oil usage issues and I need to add a quart every 1,000 miles.....this bothers me but sounds to be on par?

A little history

John

Whoops - didn't mean to post that last one.

John:

You sound like me when I first purchased my '94 ETC. The car came with some service records, one of which was for the head gasket/timesert repair @ <50K. Suffice it to say I was not expecting the $6K price tag

I was very nervous about breaking anything so I have babied it (bought it @ 92K, it now has 104K). I go through about a quart between oil changes and I thought it was just my car. I need to read up on BodyByFisher's posts! The only time I went WOT was when this cheesy Mustang tried to race me (yes, the Eldo blew it's doors off).

Great site - I look forward to sharing and contributing!

Mark

[BodybyFisher]

Welcome aboard John and Mark, consider becoming contributing members there are some good benefits to it. Thanks, Mike

[2000 STS MN]

BodybyFisher, Your welcome. I am two weeks into this blog and have realized the knowledge you have and all the members already. I have 126k on my car and the error codes are starting. I realize this will happen and want to glean the knowledge of the group of people to do these repairs. I really need a good manual, sounds like some get some errant versions. I have numerous questions on my car and need to understand longevity of these sophisticated cars. My last car was a SSEi and sold it with 230,000 miles...did very few repairs....loved the car, but is no caddy. This is a new chapter for me and first caddy. The Northstar worries me with it's sophistication. I change oil 3-4 k miles and Wix filters. I use regular 5-30 oil no synthetics yet. As long as I need to change the filter Imize well change the oil and keep my eye on things. I will need to do my brakes, being the brake boyz break all the sensor wires. I know this is a loaded question, but can I expect 300k on this engine? I know they have oil usage issues and I need to add a quart every 1,000 miles.....this bothers me but sounds to be on par?

A little history

John

OK, where to start. If I mention something that you know already or is a repeat excuse me.

Codes, looking back it looks like you know how to retrieve codes. If you don't know, you can retrieve them through the on board computer via DIC, here is a link to how to retrieve codes:

http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html

Your car is OBDII, you get the meaning of your codes here:

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd2.html

You can download your owner's manual (the one in your glove box) here. What is nice about having it is that you can quickly search through it to find what you are looking for. It is a PDF file and you use Adobe Acrobat to view and search it:

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/resources-cad.html#om

Factory Service Manual (FSM)

You can buy one at http://www.helminc.com they were having a 50% off sale you might want to check. You might also find one on EBAY.. You can't live without it if you do your own work. Don't opt for Chiltons or the like they are for DIY oil changers. Helm currently has a service manual for the SEVILLE for $67.50 (a great price) http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?c...1W0CKHG8T1LFCQ7

Oil consumption, your consumption in my opinion is a little high. Check for leaks first. Snug up your pan bolts. Consider a 10W30 in the summer. When I got my car, I was also using oil at a high rate and saw the low oil message a couple of times. It was owned by a gentleman that I would say babied it. Not good. This is a high performance engine that loves to be beat. Once I started doing the WOT procedure and driving it hard my consumption improved. Do a search under WOT (wide open throttle). See this article it was written by someone who is very knowledgeable with the NS:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/cadillac-tech.html#noil

Oil Changes, you say you change oil every 3 to 4K. Not necessary. Your car has an OLM (Oil Life Monitor). If you don't use your OLM you should. See my post #12 in this thread for an explanation of how it works (from guru): http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...0406&hl=olm

Will the engine last? We have some that have gone high 200K's. Can the head gaskets go at some point? Yep. If it does, you will get it repaired correctly (timeserts) and have a bullet proof engine. Most important thing is changing the coolant, keep the DEXCOOL fresh and use the cooling supplement.

Hope this helps

BodybyFisher, Your welcome. I am two weeks into this blog and have realized the knowledge you have and all the members already. I have 126k on my car and the error codes are starting. I realize this will happen and want to glean the knowledge of the group of people to do these repairs. I really need a good manual, sounds like some get some errant versions. I have numerous questions on my car and need to understand longevity of these sophisticated cars. My last car was a SSEi and sold it with 230,000 miles...did very few repairs....loved the car, but is no caddy. This is a new chapter for me and first caddy. The Northstar worries me with it's sophistication. I change oil 3-4 k miles and Wix filters. I use regular 5-30 oil no synthetics yet. As long as I need to change the filter Imize well change the oil and keep my eye on things. I will need to do my brakes, being the brake boyz break all the sensor wires. I know this is a loaded question, but can I expect 300k on this engine? I know they have oil usage issues and I need to add a quart every 1,000 miles.....this bothers me but sounds to be on par?

A little history

John

Whoops - didn't mean to post that last one.

John:

You sound like me when I first purchased my '94 ETC. The car came with some service records, one of which was for the head gasket/timesert repair @ <50K. Suffice it to say I was not expecting the $6K price tag

I was very nervous about breaking anything so I have babied it (bought it @ 92K, it now has 104K). I go through about a quart between oil changes and I thought it was just my car. I need to read up on BodyByFisher's posts! The only time I went WOT was when this cheesy Mustang tried to race me (yes, the Eldo blew it's doors off).

Great site - I look forward to sharing and contributing!

Mark

[JohnnyG]

by Winterset:

Also once a battery older than 3 years is completely drained, it must be changed. yes, it will work, but you are taking a expensive gamble.

I think this is good solid advice. Completely draining your battery can happen in many different ways, and sometimes it is hard to do, since various car systems will shut down as the voltage creeps lower...

For me, it was leaving the glove box door open in the garage for a week with a 5 year old battery.

Sure enough, on my next start, dash readout indicated a .4 volt drop during my next 300 mile trip. Lucky for me I suspected a battery that was severely weakened by this "deep cycle" and replaced it immediately. I think that spared my alternator and avoided a LOT of codes.

[2000 STS MN]

Quote:

OK, where to start. If I mention something that you know already or is a repeat excuse me.

Codes, looking back it looks like you know how to retrieve codes. If you don't know, you can retrieve them through the on board computer via DIC, here is a link to how to retrieve codes:

http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html

Your car is OBDII, you get the meaning of your codes here:

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd2.html

You can download your owner's manual (the one in your glove box) here. What is nice about having it is that you can quickly search through it to find what you are looking for. It is a PDF file and you use Adobe Acrobat to view and search it:

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/resources-cad.html#om

Factory Service Manual (FSM)

You can buy one at http://www.helminc.com they were having a 50% off sale you might want to check. You might also find one on EBAY.. You can't live without it if you do your own work. Don't opt for Chiltons or the like they are for DIY oil changers. Helm currently has a service manual for the SEVILLE for $67.50 (a great price) http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?c...1W0CKHG8T1LFCQ7

Oil consumption, your consumption in my opinion is a little high. Check for leaks first. Snug up your pan bolts. Consider a 10W30 in the summer. When I got my car, I was also using oil at a high rate and saw the low oil message a couple of times. It was owned by a gentleman that I would say babied it. Not good. This is a high performance engine that loves to be beat. Once I started doing the WOT procedure and driving it hard my consumption improved. Do a search under WOT (wide open throttle). See this article it was written by someone who is very knowledgeable with the NS:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/cadillac-tech.html#noil

Oil Changes, you say you change oil every 3 to 4K. Not necessary. Your car has an OLM (Oil Life Monitor). If you don't use your OLM you should. See my post #12 in this thread for an explanation of how it works (from guru): http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...0406&hl=olm

Will the engine last? We have some that have gone high 200K's. Can the head gaskets go at some point? Yep. If it does, you will get it repaired correctly (timeserts) and have a bullet proof engine. Most important thing is changing the coolant, keep the DEXCOOL fresh and use the cooling supplement.

Hope this helps

BodybyFisher,

What is the preferred method when I have numerous questions, start a new thread or search for key words and add to each subject matter? I am still replying to your reply I can see that this blog is driven by subject matter and sometimes I get diarrhea of the mouth

This is incredible information mentioned above. I have been monitoring my OLM and I drop 1% a day driving 70 highway miles. Looks like I will get approx 7,000 miles on this oil change with a added quart/1k to 1500 miles. I will be doing some heavy WOT tomorrow. I did read that the trick is to take my STS up to 70 in 2nd gear/approx 5500rpm...leter down and repeat 5 times minimum. I might have missed something and will need to digest this info. The OLM is monitoring oil filter condition? If I changed the filter 3,500 miles my oild life milage would go up? Just trying to understand not that I will do this.

The oil ZDP article is something I found very interesting. I have a buddy, he is a Thermal Engineer. I think he will find it very interesting also.

Dexcool: I will have to look for a test kit for testing the PH level. I heard that DEXCOOL does not retain sediment and makes it more difficult to drain. Requires good flushing? The cooling supplement is for what reason?

I also read the Chevron Techron article. I was the person that used Seafoam and was told not to waste my money! Techron does sound to be a good product but the same, use it quick and follow up with a good full tank of gas (Chevron).

My service manual should be here this week

Thanks again,

John

[BodybyFisher]

John, its a little late, and you posted a lot to digest, allow me to look at your posting tomorrow. Its not monitoring the the oil filter, but if you use AC Delco filters, you know they are validated for the NS and the OLM and they are designed to take into consideration that you could run up to 12,500 miles under the right optimum conditions as determined by the OLM. That is probably 100% highway driving in optimum ambient temps, coolant temps etc.

The guru used to say, that the ONLY filter that was really important was the FIRST filter as it picked up manufacturing debris.... subsequent filters don't pick up a lot of clogging material to have to worry about that, plus the oils are so much better...and sludging is non existant. Take off the oil filler cap and look in, it should be clean as a whistle, it amazes me...

The OLM is monitoring, the length of the trip, the ambient temp, the coolant temp, average speed, RPM, Oil Temp, (among other stuff I am sure) and applies an algorithym to the data and based on the validated Oil Specs, determines the remaining life of the oil. If you are interested in oil there is a site out there that we will give you the link to, lots of info...

Mike

[2000 STS MN]

John, its a little late, and you posted a lot to digest, allow me to look at your posting tomorrow. Its not monitoring the the oil filter, but if you use AC Delco filters, you know they are validated for the NS and the OLM and they are designed to take into consideration that you could run up to 12,500 miles under the right optimum conditions as determined by the OLM. That is probably 100% highway driving in optimum ambient temps, coolant temps etc.

The guru used to say, that the ONLY filter that was really important was the FIRST filter as it picked up manufacturing debris.... subsequent filters don't pick up a lot of clogging material to have to worry about that, plus the oils are so much better...and sludging is non existant. Take off the oil filler cap and look in, it should be clean as a whistle, it amazes me...

The OLM is monitoring, the length of the trip, the ambient temp, the coolant temp, average speed, RPM, Oil Temp, (among other stuff I am sure) and applies an algorithym to the data and based on the validated Oil Specs, determines the remaining life of the oil. If you are interested in oil there is a site out there that we will give you the link to, lots of info...

Mike

Mike, My guess is I should find the thread I find info relating to my issue(s). Reply to the person I decide to ask more questions. Even if the thread is a year old. This will keep all related data in the same thread regardless of number of replies? I am done messing this thread up

I use WIX filters, I will look into Delco filters.

Thanks again, I will re-address these in separate threads.

John

[winterset]

John,

Very popular advice on this board lately is "The only thing that should be flushed is a toilet"

For your Radiator flushing - don't do it. You will introduce contaminants from the tap water (for the purists), but more importantly you will upset the 50/50 balance which is very important to maintain for the N*

The cooling supplements are for the porus aluminum. it's only ginger root, and ground walnut shells. nothing that will clog the radiator, and the car comes from the factory with this in it.

[WarrenJ]

For your Radiator flushing - don't do it. You will introduce contaminants from the tap water (for the purists), but more importantly you will upset the 50/50 balance which is very important to maintain for the N*

Wish I could give credit where it is due, but I can't remember who it was that suggested a simple solution for the 50/50 mix difficulty.

Just look up the capacity of your freshly flushed cooling system and add half that amount of antifreeze. Then top off with water. You needn't worry about how much water remains in the block after the flush.

That's from the "Why Didn't I Think of That?" book.

Regards,

Warren

P.S. Have good water, will flush. NOT a purist.

[KHE]

For your Radiator flushing - don't do it. You will introduce contaminants from the tap water (for the purists), but more importantly you will upset the 50/50 balance which is very important to maintain for the N*

Wish I could give credit where it is due, but I can't remember who it was that suggested a simple solution for the 50/50 mix difficulty.

Just look up the capacity of your freshly flushed cooling system and add half that amount of antifreeze. Then top off with water. You needn't worry about how much water remains in the block after the flush.

That's from the "Why Didn't I Think of That?" book.

Regards,

Warren

P.S. Have good water, will flush. NOT a purist.

Warren,

That may work for green coolant assuming you are able to get at least half of the flush water out by draining. DexCool is not recommended to be added to the system directly from the container - it must be mixed before adding it to the system.

[Cadillac Jim]

I'm the one that recommended draining the system and adding half its capacity in anti-freeze to ensure at leats 50% anti-freeze. A better way is to drain it into gallon buckets, measuring what comes out, and adding back 50-50.

When my car was using coolant, I rotuinely topped of the surge tank with pure DexCool. When a dealer flushed it and it came back with less than 50-50 and used a lot of coolant, I topped it off with Dexcool until it stabilized, and everything was fine.

That was a long time ago, and I have a new engine now. I think that I will pre-mix 50-50 to refill my system next time. Someone here posted that they saw distilled water at WalMart for 50 cents a gallon.

[adallak]

These testers are pretty accurate, very inexpensive (Wal-Mart) and most importantly you can test or calibrate them with small volume of mixture with known concentration. Probably it works for DexCool as well. At least you can test it and calibrate for DexCool.

[WarrenJ]

That may work for green coolant assuming you are able to get at least half of the flush water out by draining. DexCool is not recommended to be added to the system directly from the container - it must be mixed before adding it to the system.

Aw c'mon . . . . it's not fair to leave us hanging like that!

WHY must it first be mixed?

Regards,

Warren

[KHE]

That may work for green coolant assuming you are able to get at least half of the flush water out by draining. DexCool is not recommended to be added to the system directly from the container - it must be mixed before adding it to the system.

Aw c'mon . . . . it's not fair to leave us hanging like that!

WHY must it first be mixed?

Regards,

Warren

I didn't mean to leave anyone hanging. Dexcool has an organic acid based corrosion inhibitor package - and should not be used in concentrations greater than 60%. The guru used to always state that DexCool should never be added straight from the jug.

[waward]

You are driving an excellent car, I wish I owed it, its going to NEED work and things will stop working at this point low mileage not withstanding. We can help you weather the problems, and you will be better off doing some of the work yourself. If you don't have a warranty and you don't do work yourself that mad face may get worse if you need to depend on a mechanic.

I would suggest visiting Sears buying some tools and stick with us and maybe we can put a smile on your face.

You are lucky you found us, if you actually listen to mechanics they will lead you to believe you DO have serious problems when its NOT, maybe that is why you have the mad face on.

Sorry if this sounds harsh its not intended to, but I get a pit in my stomach when I see MAD faces on first posts. Welcome aboard.

Awesome reply above...what a great attitude. I too am glad I found this web site.

Update

It was the alternator all the while. I ordered one on line, and my mechanic installed it, and that part of the problem is fixed, however I still have problem with the pulldown motor on the trunk. I have sprayed the latch with WD40, but the trunk still does not pull down and lock right away, it takes six to eight hours to pulldown all by it's self. Thanks a heap for the help, and I have sent this site to several of my friends that also own Caddys. The wife still has her mind on an Escalade, so now I'm gonna have to deal with that!

"Inside every older person is a young person wondering what the hell

happened."

[Texas Jim]

Update

It was the alternator all the while. I ordered one on line, and my mechanic installed it, and that part of the problem is fixed, however I still have problem with the pulldown motor on the trunk. I have sprayed the latch with WD40, but the trunk still does not pull down and lock right away, it takes six to eight hours to pulldown all by it's self. Thanks a heap for the help, and I have sent this site to several of my friends that also own Caddys. The wife still has her mind on an Escalade, so now I'm gonna have to deal with that!

"Inside every older person is a young person wondering what the hell

happened."

Assuming that you now have proper voltage to everything ... the pulldown motor could be bad or the sliding part of the mechanism could be binding. When my old Fleetwood was doing that, I bought a complete pulldown mechanism from the wrecking yard. Was still working great 4 years later when I sold it.

[KHE]

The upper latch switch on the deck lid is probably bad or there is a break in the wires where they flex at the deck lid hinge. Unplug the switch and use an ohm meter to check for continuity when you activate the switch manually. If the switch is bad, it is around $14 at the GM parts counter.