Boy oh boy, do I have problems!

[waward]

A couple of weeks ago, my pulldown trunk motor would not work. Pushing in the reset didn't help at all, BUT the next morning, the trunk would be pulled down. Yesterday following the advice of others, I removed the switch, and checked it with my ohm meter to see if I had continuity. I did. This morning. the trunk has locked in place, as it is supposed to be, HOWEVER the computer reported, "trunk unlocked. This afternoon as I went to pick up my wife from work, the traction light came on, so when I stopped at a traffic light, I shut off the engine, and restarted the car hoping the computer would reset it's self. In doing so, the trunk unlocked, the gas filler door opened, and the check engine light came on. I managed to get to my wife's workplace, only to have the engine cut off, and had to call AAA for service. The young man had a booster pack, and we restarted the engine,only to have it cut off again, as if the battery was dead! I finally had to have it towed home tonight, and I'm wondering, is it the computer, or what? Incidentally I was planning on have it checked out this wen for a whining coming from under the hood. My mechanic thinks it's either the idler bearing, or the automatic belt tensioner bearing, but now. I' m unable to do anything. has anyone ever had this type of problem before? With my 92 Eldo, I never had any problems. BTW this is a 98 Eldo with 56k miles.

[chazglenn3]

Sounds like either a dead battery or loose or dirty battery cables. Low voltage can wreak havoc on the Cadillac's electronics. Have the battery load tested if the cables are clean and tight.

Charles

[Regis]

Sounds like a battery farting out to me too. Could also be a bad connection like Charles suggested. Was the trunk pulldown issue ever fixed before all this started happening? Because if it closes that last bit after sitting for awhile then it could be a battery issue causing it or the pulldown mechanism needs a little lube. My pulldown did the same thing (battery was fine) and a few shots of WD-40 down into the pulldown and motor assembly cured it. Nice part was that I didn't have to remove anything nor contort myself for this fix. Just point and shoot.

[adallak]

I agree with Regis, your trunk pull down appeared to be the most power sensible link because of increased friction in the gear. Start with battery/cable/contacts (positive end under red insulation is known to corrode). Your mechanic could be right as well, a bad tensioner (whining?) would have caused charging problems. There is a good chance all these problems coexist.

[coolnesss]

And could the whining also be a bad alternator? When my battery has gone out, it took the alternator with it - and vice versa.

[The Fred]

Autozone tests the charging system (Alt and Batt) free.

[waward]

Autozone tests the charging system (Alt and Batt) free.

OOOOOOk, today I put the charger on it, and it cranked up,BUT as I looked at the voltage, 12.3 volts, oh,oh, it now looks like it could be the alternator after all. I very seldom drive the car, and my dear wife claims she doesn't know about "such things"! The computer reset it's self, but the trunk pulldown problem still exists. Since I have a can of WD40, I will apply a generous dose this evening. It's looking more and more like the alternator. Thanks a heaps,and I will keep everyone informed as to my progress. 73's

[Ranger]

Might be just the battery not holding a charge.

[BodybyFisher]

From the title line I would have thought you put a ROD through the side of the engine or the tranny went out The angry face should be assigned to THOSE types of problems.

As noted above these cars are very sensitive to inadequate power and intermittent power. My 91 would not even run with a bad cell in the battery as the COILS drew too much current and as soon as you pressed the gas it died. Check battery and connections.

Here is a story for you.. The other night I went to a friends house for dinner, I notice a 2006 Infinity G35 in the driveway and I think, he had a 2002 I wonder what happened. Well I immediately say, you bought a new car? NO.... its a loaner..... (I smirk inside!, you know foreign cars are SO much superior and they just spent $700 for an O2 sensor ). His wife proceeds to tell me that without warning, her dash started flashing on and off, buzzers flashed, the radio wouldn't work, etc. IT WAS SHKARRY.... LOL. Anyway, she bearly gets in her driveway and the car DIES.... Next day, they have it towed, verdict? BAD ALTERNATOR, plus OH YOUR INJECTORS ARE DIRTY and need cleaning and your power steering needs recommended flushing, and we recommend a firmware upgrade for $75 (you know those pump up the bill items for unknowing sheep). So the alternator that WAS under warranty ended up costing them $350, huh? This is a 2002 Infinity G30 with 40,000 miles. The point is, as was noted above the ALTERNATOR could also be your problem.

You are driving an excellent car, I wish I owed it, its going to NEED work and things will stop working at this point low mileage not withstanding. We can help you weather the problems, and you will be better off doing some of the work yourself. If you don't have a warranty and you don't do work yourself that mad face may get worse if you need to depend on a mechanic.

I would suggest visiting Sears buying some tools and stick with us and maybe we can put a smile on your face.

You are lucky you found us, if you actually listen to mechanics they will lead you to believe you DO have serious problems when its NOT, maybe that is why you have the mad face on.

Sorry if this sounds harsh its not intended to, but I get a pit in my stomach when I see MAD faces on first posts. Welcome aboard.

[waward]

From the title line I would have thought you put a ROD through the side of the engine or the tranny went out The angry face should be assigned to THOSE types of problems.

As noted above these cars are very sensitive to inadequate power and intermittent power. My 91 would not even run with a bad cell in the battery as the COILS drew too much current and as soon as you pressed the gas it died. Check battery and connections.

Here is a story for you.. The other night I went to a friends house for dinner, I notice a 2006 Infinity G35 in the driveway and I think, he had a 2002 I wonder what happened. Well I immediately say, you bought a new car? NO.... its a loaner..... (I smirk inside!, you know foreign cars are SO much superior and they just spent $700 for an O2 sensor ). His wife proceeds to tell me that without warning, her dash started flashing on and off, buzzers flashed, the radio wouldn't work, etc. IT WAS SHKARRY.... LOL. Anyway, she bearly gets in her driveway and the car DIES.... Next day, they have it towed, verdict? BAD ALTERNATOR, plus OH YOUR INJECTORS ARE DIRTY and need cleaning and your power steering needs recommended flushing, and we recommend a firmware upgrade for $75 (you know those pump up the bill items for unknowing sheep). So the alternator that WAS under warranty ended up costing them $350, huh? This is a 2002 Infinity G30 with 40,000 miles. The point is, as was noted above the ALTERNATOR could also be your problem.

Well, I mentioned this to my mechanic today, and he says while he's checking the idlers and automatic tensioner, he'll check the alternator also! BTW, last year my wife carried it to the dealership for an oil change, and was told the alternator bearing were bad, and you know how most women are, cost to replace the bearing $550.00. When she arrived home, I showed her what a dealer on line was charging, FOR A NEW ALTERNATOR!

Price..........$250.00.

Result, I found a private mechanic!

You are driving an excellent car, I wish I owed it, its going to NEED work and things will stop working at this point low mileage not withstanding. We can help you weather the problems, and you will be better off doing some of the work yourself. If you don't have a warranty and you don't do work yourself that mad face may get worse if you need to depend on a mechanic.

I would suggest visiting Sears buying some tools and stick with us and maybe we can put a smile on your face.

You are lucky you found us, if you actually listen to mechanics they will lead you to believe you DO have serious problems when its NOT, maybe that is why you have the mad face on.

Sorry if this sounds harsh its not intended to, but I get a pit in my stomach when I see MAD faces on first posts. Welcome aboard.

[JimD]

Autozone tests the charging system (Alt and Batt) free.

OOOOOOk, today I put the charger on it, and it cranked up,BUT as I looked at the voltage, 12.3 volts, oh,oh, it now looks like it could be the alternator after all. I very seldom drive the car, and my dear wife claims she doesn't know about "such things"! The computer reset it's self, but the trunk pulldown problem still exists. Since I have a can of WD40, I will apply a generous dose this evening. It's looking more and more like the alternator. Thanks a heaps,and I will keep everyone informed as to my progress. 73's

Welcome aboard and hope you get your charging system woes identified and rectified (pun intended).

I am a local phone call away and active on 2 meters.

[BodybyFisher]

ahh Jim you picked up on the 73's! What was 88's? We used to say 73's and 88's to girls we met on a CB in high school, hopefully that wasn't bad.. I thought it was love and kisses...

[The Fred]

I had a ham radio back in the days back then and CB radios and all

[JimD]

ahh Jim you picked up on the 73's! What was 88's? We used to say 73's and 88's to girls we met in high school, hopefully that wasn't bad.. I thought it was love and kisses...

That was not the first clue.

The Morse code pro-sign, 73, is a unique rhythm and sound and was/is used as shorthand for "best regards". Therefore, "73's" is incorrect. Picky, picky!

When female operators came on the scene it became necessary to have a touchy-feely pro-sign and 88 was accepted to be "love and kisses". Again, "88's" is a double plural. More picky, picky!

Are you a transmission expert yet??

[2000 STS MN]

You are driving an excellent car, I wish I owed it, its going to NEED work and things will stop working at this point low mileage not withstanding. We can help you weather the problems, and you will be better off doing some of the work yourself. If you don't have a warranty and you don't do work yourself that mad face may get worse if you need to depend on a mechanic.

I would suggest visiting Sears buying some tools and stick with us and maybe we can put a smile on your face.

You are lucky you found us, if you actually listen to mechanics they will lead you to believe you DO have serious problems when its NOT, maybe that is why you have the mad face on.

Sorry if this sounds harsh its not intended to, but I get a pit in my stomach when I see MAD faces on first posts. Welcome aboard.

Awesome reply above...what a great attitude. I too am glad I found this web site.

[PAUL T]

Are there any diagnostic codes showing? How is your belt? If your Idler is seizing it could be taking power from the altenator.

As far as the trunk, check for a broken wire, in the wiring harness, where the trunk hinges.

[BodybyFisher]

You are driving an excellent car, I wish I owed it, its going to NEED work and things will stop working at this point low mileage not withstanding. We can help you weather the problems, and you will be better off doing some of the work yourself. If you don't have a warranty and you don't do work yourself that mad face may get worse if you need to depend on a mechanic.

I would suggest visiting Sears buying some tools and stick with us and maybe we can put a smile on your face.

You are lucky you found us, if you actually listen to mechanics they will lead you to believe you DO have serious problems when its NOT, maybe that is why you have the mad face on.

Sorry if this sounds harsh its not intended to, but I get a pit in my stomach when I see MAD faces on first posts. Welcome aboard.

Awesome reply above...what a great attitude. I too am glad I found this web site.

Thank you 2000 STS MN that was nice. I was nervous to appear cocky or harsh, which I have been known to display on occasion, if only by accident. I tend to react this way to newly registered members who immediately display gloom and doom, victimism, litigious, negativity, case-building, head hunting, GM/Cadillac bashing or anger (did I miss any affliction? ). I am a positive person and these traits solve nothing. This board is occupied by a very knowledgeable bunch of people that want to help. The overall tone is positive. What people fail to realize is that all cars need repairs, as the car ages the frequency and cost of maintenance increases, and if you want to be smart about it, when the cost to repair exceeds on a monthly basis the cost of a new car.... its time to make a change. These are wonderful cars, for DIYers that have patience, knowledge (the benefit of this board) and mechanical ability. If you are not mechanically inclined at all, and need to take you car in and pay for repairs its a mistake to own an aging car of ANY make but with the complexity of these cars (and most cars today for that matter) it can be expensive. Thanks again.

[2000 STS MN]

BodybyFisher, Your welcome. I am two weeks into this blog and have realized the knowledge you have and all the members already. I have 126k on my car and the error codes are starting. I realize this will happen and want to glean the knowledge of the group of people to do these repairs. I really need a good manual, sounds like some get some errant versions. I have numerous questions on my car and need to understand longevity of these sophisticated cars. My last car was a SSEi and sold it with 230,000 miles...did very few repairs....loved the car, but is no caddy. This is a new chapter for me and first caddy. The Northstar worries me with it's sophistication. I change oil 3-4 k miles and Wix filters. I use regular 5-30 oil no synthetics yet. As long as I need to change the filter Imize well change the oil and keep my eye on things. I will need to do my brakes, being the brake boyz break all the sensor wires. I know this is a loaded question, but can I expect 300k on this engine? I know they have oil usage issues and I need to add a quart every 1,000 miles.....this bothers me but sounds to be on par?

A little history

John

[BodybyFisher]

ahh Jim you picked up on the 73's! What was 88's? We used to say 73's and 88's to girls we met in high school, hopefully that wasn't bad.. I thought it was love and kisses...

That was not the first clue.

The Morse code pro-sign, 73, is a unique rhythm and sound and was/is used as shorthand for "best regards". Therefore, "73's" is incorrect. Picky, picky!

When female operators came on the scene it became necessary to have a touchy-feely pro-sign and 88 was accepted to be "love and kisses". Again, "88's" is a double plural. More picky, picky!

Are you a transmission expert yet??

Thanks for that Jim. I am not a tranny expert yet, but I better hurry, its getting cold. I have had bronchitis for about a week now and feel terrible. The weather is not cooperating at all. Rain, rain, rain. I am going to order the parts this week. I have been dreaming about the job and every time i do, I fail when it comes time to pull the carriage up again.... I will start a thread detailing this job when I begin. I want to take a few trips this winter and can't as it currently is... thanks

[epricedright]

ahh Jim you picked up on the 73's! What was 88's? We used to say 73's and 88's to girls we met in high school, hopefully that wasn't bad.. I thought it was love and kisses...

That was not the first clue.

The Morse code pro-sign, 73, is a unique rhythm and sound and was/is used as shorthand for "best regards". Therefore, "73's" is incorrect. Picky, picky!

When female operators came on the scene it became necessary to have a touchy-feely pro-sign and 88 was accepted to be "love and kisses". Again, "88's" is a double plural. More picky, picky!

Are you a transmission expert yet??

Thanks for that Jim. I am not a tranny expert yet, but I better hurry, its getting cold. I have had bronchitis for about a week now and feel terrible. The weather is not cooperating at all. Rain, rain, rain. I am going to order the parts this week. I have been dreaming about the job and every time i do, I fail when it comes time to pull the carriage up again.... I will start a thread detailing this job when I begin. I want to take a few trips this winter and can't as it currently is... thanks

Mike, I feel your pain. I have had bronchitis off and on for nearly a month now. Bad stuff it is. Good luck with your tranny. Hoping we feel better soon!

[winterset]

Because the Battery is bad, it's causing your alternator to work extra hard (thus the whine), and probably damaging the alternator (if not already done so). It's no surprise that when the battery go's, it takes the alternator with it. Since the car is not driven much, you must understand that time is always ticking for a battery regardless of mileage. Your car is starving for current reaking havoc on your poor car's computer. Change the battery, and you will see the problems resolve themself. Never connect a dead battery to a any alternator, unless you like changing alternators. Also once a battery older than 3 years is completely drained, it must be changed. yes, it will work, but you are taking a expensive gamble.

[BodybyFisher]

Mike, I feel your pain. I have had bronchitis off and on for nearly a month now. Bad stuff it is. Good luck with your tranny. Hoping we feel better soon!

Thanks Kim, this is the sickest I have been for a long time. I layed in bed sleeping on Sunday and Monday half dead... Went to see a concert Sat night to see Acoustic Alchemy and when I came out it was 41 degrees and I started shivering uncontrollably (Deville warmed up fast however).. When I got home I had a 102.5 temp. Just now it was 99.4. Doctor gave meds (Tpack) and inhaler so hopefully this will get better. Thanks

[BodybyFisher]

BodybyFisher, Your welcome. I am two weeks into this blog and have realized the knowledge you have and all the members already. I have 126k on my car and the error codes are starting. I realize this will happen and want to glean the knowledge of the group of people to do these repairs. I really need a good manual, sounds like some get some errant versions. I have numerous questions on my car and need to understand longevity of these sophisticated cars. My last car was a SSEi and sold it with 230,000 miles...did very few repairs....loved the car, but is no caddy. This is a new chapter for me and first caddy. The Northstar worries me with it's sophistication. I change oil 3-4 k miles and Wix filters. I use regular 5-30 oil no synthetics yet. As long as I need to change the filter Imize well change the oil and keep my eye on things. I will need to do my brakes, being the brake boyz break all the sensor wires. I know this is a loaded question, but can I expect 300k on this engine? I know they have oil usage issues and I need to add a quart every 1,000 miles.....this bothers me but sounds to be on par?

A little history

John

OK, where to start. If I mention something that you know already or is a repeat excuse me.

Codes, looking back it looks like you know how to retrieve codes. If you don't know, you can retrieve them through the on board computer via DIC, here is a link to how to retrieve codes:

http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html

Your car is OBDII, you get the meaning of your codes here:

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd2.html

You can download your owner's manual (the one in your glove box) here. What is nice about having it is that you can quickly search through it to find what you are looking for. It is a PDF file and you use Adobe Acrobat to view and search it:

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/resources-cad.html#om

Factory Service Manual (FSM)

You can buy one at http://www.helminc.com they were having a 50% off sale you might want to check. You might also find one on EBAY.. You can't live without it if you do your own work. Don't opt for Chiltons or the like they are for DIY oil changers. Helm currently has a service manual for the SEVILLE for $67.50 (a great price) http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?c...1W0CKHG8T1LFCQ7

Oil consumption, your consumption in my opinion is a little high. Check for leaks first. Snug up your pan bolts. Consider a 10W30 in the summer. When I got my car, I was also using oil at a high rate and saw the low oil message a couple of times. It was owned by a gentleman that I would say babied it. Not good. This is a high performance engine that loves to be beat. Once I started doing the WOT procedure and driving it hard my consumption improved. Do a search under WOT (wide open throttle). See this article it was written by someone who is very knowledgeable with the NS:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/cadillac-tech.html#noil

Oil Changes, you say you change oil every 3 to 4K. Not necessary. Your car has an OLM (Oil Life Monitor). If you don't use your OLM you should. See my post #12 in this thread for an explanation of how it works (from guru): http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...0406&hl=olm

Will the engine last? We have some that have gone high 200K's. Can the head gaskets go at some point? Yep. If it does, you will get it repaired correctly (timeserts) and have a bullet proof engine. Most important thing is changing the coolant, keep the DEXCOOL fresh and use the cooling supplement.

Hope this helps

[2000 STS MN]

BodybyFisher, Your welcome. I am two weeks into this blog and have realized the knowledge you have and all the members already. I have 126k on my car and the error codes are starting. I realize this will happen and want to glean the knowledge of the group of people to do these repairs. I really need a good manual, sounds like some get some errant versions. I have numerous questions on my car and need to understand longevity of these sophisticated cars. My last car was a SSEi and sold it with 230,000 miles...did very few repairs....loved the car, but is no caddy. This is a new chapter for me and first caddy. The Northstar worries me with it's sophistication. I change oil 3-4 k miles and Wix filters. I use regular 5-30 oil no synthetics yet. As long as I need to change the filter Imize well change the oil and keep my eye on things. I will need to do my brakes, being the brake boyz break all the sensor wires. I know this is a loaded question, but can I expect 300k on this engine? I know they have oil usage issues and I need to add a quart every 1,000 miles.....this bothers me but sounds to be on par?

A little history

John

OK, where to start. If I mention something that you know already or is a repeat excuse me.

Codes, looking back it looks like you know how to retrieve codes. If you don't know, you can retrieve them through the on board computer via DIC, here is a link to how to retrieve codes:

http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html

Your car is OBDII, you get the meaning of your codes here:

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd2.html

You can download your owner's manual (the one in your glove box) here. What is nice about having it is that you can quickly search through it to find what you are looking for. It is a PDF file and you use Adobe Acrobat to view and search it:

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/resources-cad.html#om

Factory Service Manual (FSM)

You can buy one at http://www.helminc.com they were having a 50% off sale you might want to check. You might also find one on EBAY.. You can't live without it if you do your own work. Don't opt for Chiltons or the like they are for DIY oil changers. Helm currently has a service manual for the SEVILLE for $67.50 (a great price) http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?c...1W0CKHG8T1LFCQ7

Oil consumption, your consumption in my opinion is a little high. Check for leaks first. Snug up your pan bolts. Consider a 10W30 in the summer. When I got my car, I was also using oil at a high rate and saw the low oil message a couple of times. It was owned by a gentleman that I would say babied it. Not good. This is a high performance engine that loves to be beat. Once I started doing the WOT procedure and driving it hard my consumption improved. Do a search under WOT (wide open throttle). See this article it was written by someone who is very knowledgeable with the NS:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/cadillac-tech.html#noil

Oil Changes, you say you change oil every 3 to 4K. Not necessary. Your car has an OLM (Oil Life Monitor). If you don't use your OLM you should. See my post #12 in this thread for an explanation of how it works (from guru): http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...0406&hl=olm

Will the engine last? We have some that have gone high 200K's. Can the head gaskets go at some point? Yep. If it does, you will get it repaired correctly (timeserts) and have a bullet proof engine. Most important thing is changing the coolant, keep the DEXCOOL fresh and use the cooling supplement.

Hope this helps

Thanks much. I am ordering the FSM tomorrow. I will read all items mentioned.

I have a number of issues to address and will one at atime with seperate threads.

This info is putting a smile on my face

You will be hearing alot more from me

Thanks again for taking the time to help

John

[BodybyFisher]

John, you are welcome, glad you are smiling, we like that! Mike

Glad you got that good deal on you FSM, I paid $100 for a used one on EBAY!! (dumb I know but its a long story)