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Something seems loose in front end


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Always something with this deville and hear I go again.....Anytime I drive, I can feel every little bump, as well as hear a soft metal on metal sound like something isn't tight or worn or it's worn. You can feel and hear it on both sides of the front end. (drivers and passenger side). Going to start my check with the motor mounts and stabilizer bar. What else could I check? Once again, any help would be grateful....

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To add to KHE...

If it sounds like popcorn popping in a microwave....it's the stabilizer bar links.

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I Tighten up the stabilizer bar links on both sides and no change, but I did narrow it down to only the drivers side. Keying in on the control arm bushing or some kind of freak way by calibers aren't tight. Always Something...lol

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The stabilizer links aren't always obvious. The upper ends of the front ones are permanently lubricated ball joints on a Cadillac. If the lube goes away, they get loose. Sometimes it's hard to tell. You can't tighten up the ball joints. They are a lot like a tie rod end only bigger.

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-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I would also check the vertical control arm bushing. They are pretty common among most every car out there with them.

The rubber seperates from the sleeve and causes play and noises

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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The Deville of that vintage has traditional stabilizer bar links - like the older RWD cars had. They are not the ball-joint type but can still make noise if the rubber grommets have deteriorated enough that the bolt contacts metal.

Jack up the front end and grab each front tire at the 12:00 and 6:00 and attempt to rock it - excessive play here means a ballk joint is worn. Grab the tire at the 3:00 and 9:0 position while someone holds the steering wheel and repeat the rocking. Excessive movement will point to a tie rod end.

The stabilizer bar bushings can take a compression set and make a noise when going over bumps in the roads. THe best thing to do is to put the car on ramps and use a pry bar to attempt to move the various joints to see if you can see relative movement which will indicate the problem area.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Going up in the air today, and going to replace stabilizer bar bushings, they only cost a few dollars. Then i'll do the 3-9 12-6 test and report back. How do you determine if the control are bushings are bad?

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Put the car in the air also installed new Stabilization bar link on drivers side. I did notice a small amount of grease was sitting on the bushing from the control arm right below the axle. I thought I cleaned it off, I guess not to well. Even though some noise (rumble) did go away but the problem is still there. The only gap in any rubber bushing was the one I listed above. I wonder if I can have new bushings pressed in and bearings repacked from a shop here in Memphis. Last time I visited a junkyard I bought a part and had to return it, although I see PartsGeek have control arms from $55 to $68. Thanks Gents

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OK...I'll check it out too. Let me run this pass everyone.....Replaced stabilization bar links....Just tested ball joint (only have lower) Tight, Hub is tight, so the only thing left is the control arm bushing with built in ball joint or struts (correct)? I have 2 VA appts tomorrow with a total mile of 35 round trip, do you think it's safe to ride?

Edited by IceCold
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Put the car in the air also installed new Stabilization bar link on drivers side. I did notice a small amount of grease was sitting on the bushing from the control arm right below the axle. I thought I cleaned it off, I guess not to well. Even though some noise (rumble) did go away but the problem is still there. The only gap in any rubber bushing was the one I listed above. I wonder if I can have new bushings pressed in and bearings repacked from a shop here in Memphis. Last time I visited a junkyard I bought a part and had to return it, although I see PartsGeek have control arms from $55 to $68. Thanks Gents

Did you check the boots on the axle? If there is grease below, I would check for a bad boot on the cv joint. If that has lost the grease you may need a new half shaft.

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The grease issue happened when I repack the boot on the cv joint before this issue and I stated that i thought I cleaned it off, but I guess not to well. The problem is I can hear and feel every little bump on the drivers side. It's like driving on a road that has been scraped down before they resurface the road.. Drove vehicle on the interstate and didn't feel a thing...Once I got off the interstate it started...

Edited by IceCold
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  • 3 weeks later...

Called a good friend over and we put the car in the air. Found the rack & pinion arm loose. Tighten the bolt down, and my rattling noise was gone. Just came back from 300 mile trip, and the car preformed perfect. I got 25 mpg on the hwy and average of 19 around the city. AC was ice cold....Thanks for every-ones input.

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So the Rack was loose. Did you check all retainers?

Interesting but definately possible

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Both out tie rods are new. He indicated that it needs to be replaced. Thought I heard something yesterday when I hit a bump, but diffently not the same as previously felt and heard. I'll order a new rack in a few weeks and my front end will be all new. Got a code today in history (Rim c0658). Somewhere I read about the leveling system and sitting in the truck area to see if it raises to check it.

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Check the tie rod ends and stabilizer links anyway.

Once I paid to have my front stabilizer links replaced. The noise didn't go away. A few months later a service tech said that my front stabilizer links were loose. I had them changed again and the ones that came out were the originals.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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