tannertaylormusic Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Have noticed a slight hesitation while idling at stoplights. Yesterday, while speeding up out of a sharp curve I heard about 7 "popping" sounds. I've had backfire issues before, but this sounded different. The sound was more "mechanical" than a backfire.. The car had noticeable acceleration problems after this occurred. My Caddy now shows these codes: PCM 1645 C ACM B1347 PZM BO533 B2502 IRC B1771 I know that the refrigerant level is low, and the AC Compressor is off - the car shows me that every time I start it. Would this affect the way the car drives as well? Also, any helpful tips on the other codes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tannertaylormusic Posted April 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 I should also mention that I have a warped rotor in the back and things have been rumbling a bit lately. I'm putting in new rotors and brakes in the back this week. Could that vibration have caused something else to loosen up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 I could be mistaken, but I think the B1771 code is the Evap Vent Solenoid... That could cause driveability problems if it is stuck open and sucking air... It would be like a big vacuum leak... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Göran W Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 B1771 - Cassette tape slow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tannertaylormusic Posted April 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Well, we know that the cassette tape player isn't causing the problem! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tannertaylormusic Posted April 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 I'm not getting any codes that say it's running lean though, and I've had the B1771 code for a year and it's run fine with it.. What I'm really concerned about is the B2502 Auto Trans Shift Lock Control Shorted to Ground and what I need to look at to fix that problem.. I'm really getting tired of working on this car and I'd like to get it fixed to sell it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 I know that the refrigerant level is low, and the AC Compressor is off - the car shows me that every time I start it. Would this affect the way the car drives as well? No. How old are the plugs and wires? When was the TB last cleaned? Have you checked for a leaky FPR? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tannertaylormusic Posted April 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 I've had the car for two years and haven't changed plugs or wires. Tested the wires last summer and they were ok.. Never checked the Timing Belt or the Fuel Pressure Regulator and don't know how.. Do these things directly cause the B2502 code??? Or, if it WAS running lean would that trip the same code? I haven't done anything to the Evap Solenoid because I haven't noticed any problems because of it. I assumed that it was caused by old rotted gas cap O rings. I know that a new Evap Purge is only about $30 or something.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 TB means THROTTLE BODY, not TIMING BELT Test the Fuel Pressure Regulator by pulling off the vacuum hose and smelling for fuel, then start the engine and look at the fuel pressure regulator nibble to see if fuel spits, rev the engine looking for fuel spitting, ANY FUEL replace the fuel pressure regulator Start the engine in the pitch dark and look for arching of the ignition wires, spritz them with a spray bottle and look for arching. Check each ignition wire with an ohm meter. Ignore the shift lock its not causin these problems, check ignition (wires and plug), check plugs for carbon tracking and cracks, Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 With regard to the shift lock, do you need to press the brake to get the car out of park, or not? It sounds like the shift lock is shorted ON, meaning its as if the brake pedal is depressed, closing the shift lock release constantly Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 could be wrong but it sounds like it could be a bad plug wire arcing on certain turns, or even more possible could be getting pinched towards the firewall. There is multiple topics on this but this is for the pop and misfire. Rear brakes wouldnt mess up anything more than a abs problem, as far as I could think of. A/C code just disables the compressor as a safety not to damage the compressor or other components GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tannertaylormusic Posted April 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 You guys rock! I'll get to work on this tomorrow and let you know if I need any more help. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 B1347 - Very Low A/C Refrigerant Warning One other thing occurred to me. Your Northstar is old enough to have AC compressor problems. We have seen the AC hub bearings go bad, and they can bind and cause you to 'feel' sort of a miss. Don't touch it after you drive the car, but check your AC hub, to see if it rocks, take the serp belt off and feel the hub. If it rocks at all, you could be feeling the hub binding, we have seen them actually stall the engine. You should SMELL it burning and hear it making noise, mine made a racket. If you can not afford a new compressor at this point the AC compressor can be by passed using a short belt, until you can get it fixed, let us know Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tannertaylormusic Posted April 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Cleaned the TB tonight - all types of nasty black garbage in there. I did smell gas as well. Where is the fuel pressure regulator nibble at? I will check this first thing tomorrow. Tomorrow night I will also check for arching and plan on pulling all of the spark plugs to check for wear and tear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Cleaned the TB tonight - all types of nasty black garbage in there. I did smell gas as well. Where is the fuel pressure regulator nibble at? I will check this first thing tomorrow. Tomorrow night I will also check for arching and plan on pulling all of the spark plugs to check for wear and tear. If you are going to pull the plugs... go ahead and replace them. If I am not mistaken, (and THAT is possible)... the plugs have an "ANTI SEIZE COATING" on the threads and it is good for only one installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Jim is correct, if you pull the plugs you need to replace them, you do not want them seizing. The Fuel Pressure Regulator is located on the fuel rail, it has a vacuum hose attached to is. Follow the directions to test it that I posted above in #9 Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 The plug threads are plated to resist siezing. THey are not coated with any type of anti-sieze and do not apply anti-sieze to the threads. THere is nothing in the shop manuals that state the plugs are a one time use but if they have 100,000 miles on them, I'd replace them. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Kevin, there is actually a statement in GM SI that states NOT to R&R the spark plugs to 're-gap' them as the anti-seize treatment is disturbed. I really need to get my GM SI working again Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tannertaylormusic Posted April 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 The FPR does have gas dribbling from it. I will replace that tomorrow, that might just be what's giving me problems here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tannertaylormusic Posted April 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 On the FPR topic - anything I need to know about this before I rip into it? It seems fairly simple as I'm looking at it, but I wonder if it's going to leak any fuel, affect the pressure in the lines etc.. Could someone post a quick walk through for this? Thanks - getting there slowly but surely Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 The FPR does have gas dribbling from it. I will replace that tomorrow, that might just be what's giving me problems here. That is your problem. There should be no gas coming from the nipple. This means that the diaphram is bad and letting gas through. Only use a GM FPR, use anything else and you ask for trouble. I have had bad experiences with aftermarket FPR's, believe me it is not worth the less cost. Loosen the gas cap to relieve the pressure and be prepared for a little poof of gas when you take it out if all the pressure is not out. Just put a rag over it and under it to catch any gas spillage when you take off the clip. Make sure you install it correct, seating the o-ring good in the fuel rail because if it is not installed right it will leak around where it goes into the fuel rail. You do not have to start the car to check it after it is put back together, just turn the key on and the pump will pressure it back up. You will be able to tell right away if it is not seated good. It would not hurt to mist the wires also. Check the intake manifold bolts for tightness also, because if it is loose it will cause a vacuum problem that can set the evap codes also. It will get better gas mileage too. I was only getting around 18 MPG in my 97 Deville and I found the intake bolts loose. I had to get to the starter so while I had the intake out I cleaned up the gasket and retightened it and gas mileage is averaging 22-24 MPG now. The throttle body cleaning will help it MPG wise too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Cleaned the TB tonight - all types of nasty black garbage in there. I did smell gas as well. Where is the fuel pressure regulator nibble at? I will check this first thing tomorrow. Tomorrow night I will also check for arching and plan on pulling all of the spark plugs to check for wear and tear. Sometimes "topping off" the oil when measuring on a cold engine leads to overfilling the crankcase. the excess gets sucked into the PCV & gums up the TB. ONLY check the oil when the engine is warm & has been sitting for just a few minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Good find, as Paul said that IS your problem, replace it you should see an immediate improvement Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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