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Im sorry guys but my 2000 dts is overheating cant figure it out


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I have a 2000 dts that I purchased from an owner that said it was overheating I check the car out and i noticed that the car didnt have the normal head gasket sighns so I bought it. So I drive the car to my house and it was not over heating the drive was at least 3 miles long and I had no problems the heat was working fine. So 2 blocks before I got to my house it started going crazy the temp gauge almost went to hot but I had parked the car up. I let the car sit for about 45 minutes and then restarted it I let the car sit at idle for about and half hour the temp sat at 12 o'clock and didnt move so I drove it around the block and it started to move up so I parked the car again and started doing my research on here. I took the car to my mechanic and replaced the thermo and water pump. The water pump was a little rusty but still good. I refilled the car with 0ne gallon straight antifreeze and 1 gallon water. So we started the car and got the same results it sat at 12 o clock and then started to go up. So we felt the radiator and realized that one side was hot and one side was cold so we figured that the antifreeze wasnt circulating threw the radiator so the next day i replaced the rad and tried again this time i took the thermostat out same story as before. I went back on the forum and did some more research I found out about the purge line which confused me because you have one line coming off the surge tank and another line right beside that that runs across the engine. I had pulled the line off and realized that it wasnt flowing freely it was spitting and the other line barely had any thing coming threw it. So i took the two lines off and ran water threw them they flowed freely. I then started the car to see if coolant flowed from the water pump side where the tw0 3/8 hoses were they were randomly spitting coolant. I reconnected everything and started driving. I drove to the barber which was about 4 miles the car stayed at half then i drove back home it moved a bit but then went back to half so i was happy. Then I went to my moms houses ant it started going back up. Now I was mad and preparing my self for the dreaded head gasket. I went to autozone to get a block tester kit to see if any gasses was in the antifreeze I followed the instructions and realized that the headgasket WAS NOT blown. Now Im confused Radiator was replaced thermo, and water pump only thing I didnt was the cap cause that looks new just like the radiator was and my fans work. Can u guys please shine some light on my situation

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I just checked autozone to see what kind of BLOCK tester you used and can not find it, please provide more info on it. The one we know about is sold by NAPA

The purge line is the line the crosses the engine at the top and connects near the throttle body/water pump. IT MAY NOT cross the engine on your year, I am not 100% sure about that, my coolant tank is on the passenger side, is yours?

You need to pull that hose off, while the car is idling and you should get a steady stream of coolant, do it again. If its spitting it needs to be cleared

Smell inside the coolant tank and see if you smell exhaust fumes

1) Put the thermostat back in if you took it out

2) Check your water pump belt and tensioner, its on top of the engine in the front right.

3) Check the coolant concentration

4) check the operation of the cooling fans

5) pressure test the cooling system

6) check again for coolant by products

Does it miss or run rough?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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....I then started the car to see if coolant flowed from the water pump side where the tw0 3/8 hoses were they were randomly spitting coolant.

The purge line from the coolant crossover/water pump area should flow a steady stream of coolant. Random spitting indicates there is air being purged from the cooling system.

At the water pump end, that hose attaches to a hollow bolt that is exposed to water pump pressure. Remove the hose, remove the hollow bolt and be 100% certain there is nothing blocking the coolant flow to the coolant reservoir.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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I just checked autozone to see what kind of BLOCK tester you used and can not find it, please provide more info on it. The one we know about is sold by NAPA

The purge line is the line the crosses the engine at the top and connects near the throttle body/water pump. IT MAY NOT cross the engine on your year, I am not 100% sure about that, my coolant tank is on the passenger side, is yours?

You need to pull that hose off, while the car is idling and you should get a steady stream of coolant, do it again. If its spitting it needs to be cleared

Smell inside the coolant tank and see if you smell exhaust fumes

1) Put the thermostat back in if you took it out

2) Check your water pump belt and tensioner, its on top of the engine in the front right.

3) Check the coolant concentration

4) check the operation of the cooling fans

5) pressure test the cooling system

6) check again for coolant by products

Does it miss or run rough?

the car runs as smooth as ever and when I drained it the first time it looked like some type of metalic specs in the coolant

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....I then started the car to see if coolant flowed from the water pump side where the tw0 3/8 hoses were they were randomly spitting coolant.

The purge line from the coolant crossover/water pump area should flow a steady stream of coolant. Random spitting indicates there is air being purged from the cooling system.

At the water pump end, that hose attaches to a hollow bolt that is exposed to water pump pressure. Remove the hose, remove the hollow bolt and be 100% certain there is nothing blocking the coolant flow to the coolant reservoir.

is there a pic that i can see of where the purge line can be located

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The location and routing varies from year to year and model to model.

Your coolant reservoir should be mounted inside the RF fender well. There is a 3/8" hose attached to the upper level (above the FULL COLD mark) of the reservoir and that hose is the end of your purge line. Follow that plumbing under the beauty cover and you will arrive at the hollow bolt threaded into the coolant crossover in the area of the water pump.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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I took the car to the mechanic and it did not overheat on him. I got it back today and drove to my moms and what do u know it overheated I felt the top hose and it was not hot it was full or air it was like no antifreeze was going threw it the bottom hose was also not hot. One side of my radiator was hot and the other wasnt I am pretty sure that my coolant is not flowing I had relived the pressure threw my radiator cap and nothing but steam came out the overflow line I am going to give up I just dont understand what it is any last suggestions. what are all the parts to the cooling system

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It might. Sounds like air (exhaust gas) in the system. The "block" test actually test for exhaust gases in the coolant. It will tell you if the head gasket has failed.

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Take the cap off and smell the coolant, you may clearly smell exhaust gases, I smell them in mine..

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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he said:

I went to autozone to get a block tester kit to see if any gasses was in the antifreeze I followed the instructions and realized that the headgasket WAS NOT blown.

I assume thats the exhaust gas test.

It is possible for the test to be wrong, we have seen that.

His problem is acting like a breached head gasket where escaping combustion gases are superheating the coolant causing it to 'false boil'. He needs to test it again to be sure. He seems to have done other diagnostics and eliminated most other issues

We have used the combustion gas tester from NAPA, this one

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLM...2f+Engine+Block

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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It might. Sounds like air (exhaust gas) in the system. The "block" test actually test for exhaust gases in the coolant. It will tell you if the head gasket has failed.

i used that tester already and it said there wasnt any exhaust gasses in the system

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he said:

I went to autozone to get a block tester kit to see if any gasses was in the antifreeze I followed the instructions and realized that the headgasket WAS NOT blown.

I assume thats the exhaust gas test.

It is possible for the test to be wrong, we have seen that.

His problem is acting like a breached head gasket where escaping combustion gases are superheating the coolant causing it to 'false boil'. He needs to test it again to be sure. He seems to have done other diagnostics and eliminated most other issues

We have used the combustion gas tester from NAPA, this one

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLM...2f+Engine+Block

like a said way before in the post i bought that tester that looks like a turkey baseter and the liquid to put in it and it DID NOT TURN YELLOW i did it numerous times for long period of time and it did not turn yellow and it is only 25.99 at autozone thanks but can someone tell me why there is no fluid flowing threw my radiator or threw my top hose or out the water pump outlet

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like a said way before in the post i bought that tester that looks like a turkey baseter and the liquid to put in it and it DID NOT TURN YELLOW i did it numerous times for long period of time and it did not turn yellow and it is only 25.99 at autozone thanks but can someone tell me why there is no fluid flowing threw my radiator or threw my top hose or out the water pump outlet

Have you checked the purge line going from the hollow bolt to the expansion tank?

If it is not clear and flowing a stream of coolant...you will have the symptoms that you are describing.

If it can't purge the air from your system, you will get air in the hoses...just as you are describing.

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well guys i am giving up I put the thermo back in today flush the system with water, put fresh antifreeze in and let the car idle. I took the purge line off and it flowed fluently. The car warmed up as usual and it stayed for about ten minutes and then it started creeping up slowly stayed at about 3/4 for a while and then went up a little so i shut the car off and felt both sides of the radiator and the passenger side of the radiator was hot and the driver side was cold so I am giving up I tried everything and I am just going to say the head gasket is blown I still cant figure out y one side of my radiator is cold and one side is hot.

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This sounds like a job for Jake at NorthstarPerformance!

I am not sure what to make of the one side of the radiator is hot and one side is cold report. If you replaced the water pump and you replaced the radiator it is surprising that you would not have good coolant flow through the system. There was an issue where the lower radiator hose has a coil inside of it to prevent it from collapsing, and if not there or the wrong replacement was used then the hose could collapse on itself and prevent flow, as I recall.

Bruce

2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing

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This sounds like a job for Jake at NorthstarPerformance!

I am not sure what to make of the one side of the radiator is hot and one side is cold report. If you replaced the water pump and you replaced the radiator it is surprising that you would not have good coolant flow through the system. There was an issue where the lower radiator hose has a coil inside of it to prevent it from collapsing, and if not there or the wrong replacement was used then the hose could collapse on itself and prevent flow, as I recall.

When the head gasket went on my 98, I noticed the drivers side of the radiator was cool, and one time both sides of my radiator were cool. even though the dash said it was 240 degrees. When the head gasket goes, it pumps combustion gas into the coolant passages and pushes the coolant out the overflow. Then what I think happens is that the system gets airbound. When the water pump gets airbound, it cant pump. If the coolant doesnt circulate, the coolant in the radiator gets cooled very fast due to the heat load being so low, because no heated coolant is pumped into the radiator. Thats why it feels cool. Although I never tried it, I think a good test for a head gasket failing is to tie wrap a balloon (or condom) over the overflow hose and take it for a ride up a long hill. If the balloon gets full of coolant (or is melted off), I would think a head gasket is failing.

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Interesting. Not sure this would be a determinate of head bolts / head gasket vs other cooling system issues, but it would explain what 00dts1600 is experiencing.

Here is Jake's "Is it my Head gasket" FAQ: http://www.northstarperformance.com/hgfaq.php

Bruce

2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing

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Remove the spark plugs, remove the surge tank cap, install a spark plug to air compressor adapter, and pressurize each cylinder to 120 psi. If the head gasket(s) are bad, the surge tank will erupt like a gyser. This is the simplest test there is to test the head gaskets.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Remove the spark plugs, remove the surge tank cap, install a spark plug to air compressor adapter, and pressurize each cylinder to 120 psi. If the head gasket(s) are bad, the surge tank will erupt like a gyser. This is the simplest test there is to test the head gaskets.

When my H/G went on my 98, I could not make it over this big hill I had to climb coming home from work without overheating. On the level is was so-so, but the car got to the point of really not drivable. I tested with 120 psi on each cylinder with the surge cap removed, and there were no bubbles or anything. I tested it a few times, finally I tried reinstalling the cap while testing to see if any pressure would build up. Eventually on number one cylinder when I removed the cap I heard just a little bit of sloshing. I was really surprised that was all I saw, I expected major bubbling considering how bad the car was. Also, I kept seeing coolant on the passenger side of the radiator, where the hose connected. I thought a seam was leaking. After I did the H/G's, I pressure tested the radiator with no leaks, so I reinstalled it. It's been almost a year, and it's dry. I think the reason it was wet was some type of draft while moving was blowing the coolant from the overflow tube forward and landing the the radiator. You could also see at the time the bottom of the tube was wet, along with the fenderwell on that side. Just my observation and opinion.

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My '97 (that I bought knowing the head gaskets were shot) made a thumping sound for cylinders 1-4, and 6 & 8. when I got to #5, I noticed bubbling in the surge tank. When I tested #7, the surge tank erupted like a gyser.

Another easy test is to use a cooling system pressure tester and pressurize the cooling system to 15 psi. If it won't hold pressure and there are no external leaks, remove the spark plugs and crank the engine. If any coolant is noticed spewing out of the cylinders, the head gasket is shot.

The coolant combustion test is also a good test but I don't know why the kit is close to $50.00...

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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ok guys I took my radiator to the place where I bought it from and they checked it out and the guy bought me out a rock from the radiator it seems that someone put some stop leak in the system it is crazy because when my mecanhninc gave me the car back he said dont put the gold bars leak in and i did and that is probably clogging the system because when my mecahnic had the car he said it didnt overheat once so hopefully I didnt make things worst

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Now Im confused Radiator was replaced thermo, and water pump

Okay,we were assuming the Radiator was replaced with a new radiator. Could the radiator still be clogged, or does the mechanic feel that it is now operating correctly?

Bruce

2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing

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