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ponyboyt

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    1997 sts

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  1. he said: I went to autozone to get a block tester kit to see if any gasses was in the antifreeze I followed the instructions and realized that the headgasket WAS NOT blown. I assume thats the exhaust gas test.
  2. ah yes i've been neglecting. Its actualy only about 6200 km's. So less than 5k miles, havent even done an oil change yet. I had a LOT of probems until recently, most are fixed now. I get an engine light once in a while for 3 02 sensors, and an EVAP code when its idling on any surface tha isnt flat. But i just keep hacking away at it and it gets better and better. I still need to put in an air ride pump, and i have the ABS pump/module from the other car that i want to rebuild the pump half. Can't wait til thats done as i dont have first gear. Once those are done.... the only thing i have is to clean up some front end noise, likely control arm bushings or stearing box. Its completly driveable, actualy quite fun (i drive it like a rental...). Just the rear is kinda stiff because its sitting low. Everything else i want to do is cosmetic Maybe a paint job in the spring! I also forgot to mention: I bought the donor car for 500 bucks (cndn). Got a spare air ride pump which i broke A new power trunk motor, new power antena, 4 chrome STS rims :) and lots of other misc spare parts, and sold the old engine to a rebuilder for around 250 AND had fun running it over with a bobcat when we were done.
  3. about 7000k on the engine now. The swap is easy, but i've never done a job like this before. LOTS of minor repairs i had to do. I didnt run right for about a month, it was weak at high RPM, lots of codes. But it was all stuff we missed or didnt connect right. Shes a good runner now I used my 97 intake, moved the knock sensor to intake valley, and had the exhaust custom cut to fit from the 95 engine / manifolds / down-pipe to the flex pipe back on my 97.
  4. Yes this is worthy of Hall of Fame, but he was almost killed by his helper. Lets see how this turns out, and how the photos look DId i mention as of yesterday im UP 100 bucks on this job? And i still have a set of chrome STS wheels for sale :):)
  5. Yes this is worthy of Hall of Fame, but he was almost killed by his helper. Lets see how this turns out, and how the photos look Lol ok... well ya i guess you cn say i did it. I drove the car. The exhaust shop guys were nice enough to fix the stearing for me. I just called themand he told me the shaft was just resting on the end of the shaft that comes from the steering and the nut tightened. They slid it on properly and re-tightened it. Does anyone know what size the SMALL bolts are at the top of the Y-pipe? I need to buy new ones and shop says tey are odd ball maybe metric? Its the 2 on the drivers side that attach -pipe to the flange and pipe that go to the front side exhast.
  6. Check the power ant in your trunk. The one i just pulled from a donor car had odd plugs in it that look EXACTLY like a standard GM stereo harness. Its pretty easy to tell if the rears are amp'd. Just tug the carpet down a bit. It is amped. I don't suppose that you still have your trashed '95 around and if it still has a good CD head unit, do you? I'm not going to full-on rewire a car to put a different stereo in. Unfortunatly i wasn't there for most of the tear-down, sorry but the head unit is gone. I did get the antena, mine doesnt go down so im using that part. There is a kit you can get for the Bose. It has spots where you can plug in speaker wires from an aftermarket unit and will still run the amped speakers. Im sure its expensive. Mine isn't a bose but it was still 140+ for the harness cause of the chime and diag stuff.
  7. Check the power ant in your trunk. The one i just pulled from a donor car had odd plugs in it that look EXACTLY like a standard GM stereo harness. Its pretty easy to tell if the rears are amp'd. Just tug the carpet down a bit.
  8. There's a hall of fame? I'm not counting chickens yet. I fired my helper today. For life. He is not allowed to touch anything i own, ever again. He had hooked my steering up for me. I drove the car 18 km's to the exhaust shop, a couple 155+ km/h bursts. When i put the car in park i heard a bit of a snap. I turned the wheels each way to have a look, but was in a rush and had to go. 30 mins later the mechanic called me and said "i can't move your car, the steering linkage came off".
  9. I belive they also help hold the intake down? seems like pretty big gaps between the 6 bolts i have in there now. Its a lil bit choppy once it hits around 5300 RPM. I know i have vacuum issues (hell ther is a line missing). Also note, brand new plugs and wires. Almost... they haveabou 1500km on them from the old engine.
  10. Engine is in and running. I've hada ton of problems along the way... Lost my build sheet Lost a vacuum lones Broken temp sensor plug I had no engine ground for 2 days and the car would not turn over (it would bt barely) I had forgotten i replaced most of the main power and ground wires when i did the alt months ago (I think they call that "the big 3) and i put the wrong ground back on and ended up with 2 chassis grounds Exhaust manifold (front side) from 95 will not bolt to 97 exhaust Y-pipe (drivers side) ABS pump still not working (C1217) Car does not like to start after sitting overnight, but ill blame that on vacuum for now as i don't even have the studs for the vanity cover in. Other than that it runs perfect and is a lot quieter (no ticking) and smoother than the old engine. Read and cleared all DTC codes. Car running, i have TCS C1217. Also: B2119 (weird) C1738 (i have air ride pump from other car, it worked nicely and will replace this weekend), C1760, C1761 (I dont have the height sensors on.) Bled the brakes last night and pedal is hard as a rock until you start the car... then it just goes to the floor with no resistance until its an inch from fully depressed. Ill check for booster vacuum this afternoon. But to sum it up, you CAN put an OBDi engine in an OBDii car! So! For a guy who's never done an engine swap, and decided to do a northstar with no FSM (i DID try to get one) i'd say im in a good spot aheadof the game right now. It took a LOT longer than i wanted it to, but i hve been doing this in 2-3 hour stints after work and a bit longer on weekends. All with a 100ish peice Mastercraft socket set! (man i wish i had air here!!!)
  11. My 97 STS also sits low in the rear. When i first got the car the garage said i had leaking rear shocks. I found it odd that it leaked evenly. Kinda thought the air ride could not differentiate from left and right when raising and lowering the car, and the odds that both shocks leaked evenly i figure was low.... So i let it be for a while. The pump comes on and puts the car back up, just more often than one that would be working properly. Then a month or so ago i started getting a code for "exhaustvalve selenoid...." something. Seems it wasn;t letting air OUT properly, so it had shut the system down. And now my car rides low. Sometimes when i wash it or it rains it works again. Some days it just works randomly. The system will shut itself down pretty much if anything else goes wrong. So to answer the question "what does the front have to do with the ack?" well.... i've found that just about any message that has anything to do with suspension will just completly shut it all down. Only option is to pullcodes to narrow it down.
  12. i put pics up on photobucket. I will add more tonight of the work area and the engines themseves, still attached to both cradles. Using photobucket cause it seems simple and i have nothing better to do at work.... Photobucket album Anyway thats the album... not surehow it all works...
  13. So far manifolds and down pipe are identical. Same heatshielt, same size bolts and location. I am actualy talking to someone for a modded (bigger) pipe. And once i see this pipe that goes from thefront head we will look at that too. Edit: OH my bad, there is a difference. At the bottom of the down pipe. The 95 is like an old style 2 bot flange to the cat. The 97 has a big square plate at the bottom and in front of the cat. They bolt together 4 bolts 1 in each corner to join the 2 together. I will get pics of that. I have no quams whatsoever changing the coolant every spring. Or woud it be better in the fall say a week before it goes into storage? Lotta snow and salt up here. I ont drive in it. I have a truck. cars are: 95 STS VIN9 (scrapped), 97 STS VIN9 (daily driver, repairing). 95 knock sensor is on the side of the block *i think*. I havent taken the entire harness off yet, im changing it piece by piece and have only done the starter so far (with the newer knock sensor).
  14. No i mean it had green coolant already. I plan on swapping the intake. Use the intake on my 97, as thats what i was instructed, along with the knock sensor. the AC line, i wouldn't have cut it, but i already had a new one from another car. I checked to make sure itwas the right one first. My AC pump clicks loud, likely needs replacing. So i didn't mind that one cut I am still waiting for the previous owner to send me a copy of the bill for the engine. Suppsedly it was $12,000 at the dealer for the entire job all said and done, in 2002. I was told there might not be a hole for the knock sensor, under the intake. But there is a hole, which wouldn't be there in 95. It is a 2001 engine. It has a manufature tag on the toming belt cover. "Manufactured by GM for Cadillac 10 2001". A 2001 Engine with whatever modifications needed to be installed in a 1995 car. (Ths is assumed, and so far confirmed). The casting numbers on the ends of the cyleder heads are identical to the ones on my 97. 66369 or something similar. I am wondering about the COOLANT: Is it possible that this is in fact a 2001 engine, therefore requiring Dex-cool... BUT.. I was told the car was serviced at Penzoil (cambridge or hamilton, i forget) every 5000... Could it be they used green because the car, being a 95, calls for green. Bu maybe it should have been mentioned that the engine had been replaced, and should be using Dex-cool. If this is the case, is there anything i should be looking for?
  15. So the donor car was a 95. It had had the engine replaced late '02. The car had 420,000 km's on it. Engine replaced at ~280,000. Car was purcased for $500cdn, engine pulled, lots of other spare parts pulled, and the car scrapped. There is a manufacture tag on one of the timing belt covers: " .... manufactured for Cadillac 10 2001 .. ". So we assumed this was a 2001 engine, with provisions for 2001 specs, but was designed to work in a 95 STS. I have never replaced an engine in anything before. I have taken lots OUT. Mostly pickup trucks. But its been about 6 years since i've done any major work. I have never worked on a front drive vehicle. It really surprised me howeasy it actualy was. People say this isa hard job. I couldnt pay anyone to do it, no one wanted the job. But they don't say why it's hard. It's not, it's just very time consuming, especialy the first time. I lost about 200 pictures due to a corrupt SD card.... very unfortunate. But i will be starting new pics tonight. I have both cradles in the shop now sitting on skids. Car is in the air (front) on jack stands and an engine hoist. It took me 4 days to get MY engine out, 2-4 hours a night. Big difference seeing we had the donor out in under 30 mins (we cut everything). But i am doing this job alone, except for the odd help for the heavy stuff. I had my friends dad use his tractor to lower the cradle for me and pull i out the front. Trying to remember the order... Basicly i unplugged/unhooked everything in the top 50% of engine compartment then unbolted the cradle. Lifted the car about a foot then went at the bottom 50%. The exhaust was A LOT EASIER to get at this way. Just unhook the hangers and lift the car, and you have more than enough room to play around and get at stuff. I lifted it an inch at a time, watching to see what was still attached, going back down as needed. I could not remove the A/C compressor. The engine is out, and i STILL can't get the compressor off. Sadly i got frustrated and cut the bottom line. But i was satisfied that was the only thing i cut. My A/C was weak anyway, and the compressor was loud. It will get replaced by spring. The donor engine: things to note: 1 There is a rats nest under the intake. Neato.... 1.5 **The coolant is green*** ??? 2 There is a hole under the intake for a knock sensor. great, +1 3 The front -timing belt?- used to drive the cams... is not on straight... the top 2 pulleys the belt is shifted from the outside to the inside, it is on straight on the lower pulley. I will get a pic of this tonight. You can see that the belt is lop-sided when you look. I can't believe this engine has run 140,000 km's like that. Could it have moved or was it installed like that? I haven't touched it ye, i need to find the proper procedure to not F IT UP. 4 The starter has been changed. It could be that it was put in when the engine was put in. But there was a starter bolt laying loosley on the starter when i removed the intake. 5 There is some sort of substance in the (intake valley?) area under the intake. It reminds me of what my pickup looks like if i dont wash it.Kinda a light colored dirt/dust, but spotted, like dirty water spots from splashing hard through a big, deep puddle. 6 Clean, uniform oil line around the rim of each intake port, likewise on the gasket and the ports on the intake it self. No oil in the valley, no oil outside the gaskets. LOTS of dirt and dust around the outside of the ase of the intake. Some got into the intake ports and i can see small debree on the backs of the valves. I will find a proper cleaning procedure for that mess. 7 The intake ports are BLACK. No polish at all. A bit comes off on my finger and i get the impression a toothbrush would clean them. Is this normal? 8 Very important: i want to inspect the head bolts. Seems to me i will have to screw with the timing belt up front, so i might as well remove a valve cover. I have seen people mention before that the bolts can come loose when they pull. As in, will i be able to tell? I really do NOT want to pull the heads if i don't have to. I was thinking i would be able to tell if the donor's head bolts were bigger than what my 97 had. And if i can check them somehow without starting a tear-down.... hmmm... I'll hold here for a bit. Lots more to come but i need pics. Edit: OH! almost forgot: MY list off tools.. ~150 peice socket set with NOT enough wrenches 1 floor jack 3 jack stands (GET TALL ONES, I DIDNT) a few bare rims (had to use to help suppor the car) a random hammer 1 channel locks to remove hoses an engine hoist a medium sized flat head screwdriver for some random prying a tractor with forks a dog in a kennel in the shop that barks at me all freakin day. a big pile of chopped firewood. I used 4 logs to support the cradle. a pump truck 2 skids I purchased after i started: 1 line wrench set $30 1 set of fuel line quick connect removers $12
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