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Everything posted by bigtone

  1. I removed and replaced these when I did head gaskets in the car. There was just barely enough room. Also you can cheat a little by pulling forward on the engine lifting lug (with the stabilizer removed) with a comealong, just only pull enough within the 'give' of the motor mounts to avoid damaging them. What I did was pull the engine forward by hand and then use the comealong to hold it there.
  2. What issues did your early 2000 Devilles have? I bought a 2005 Deville 3 years ago with 39,000 miles on it and it has been trouble free so far. All 4 had the plenum go. Easy fix. 2 of them had the actuator under the dash go. 2 had the lockup solenoid go. 2 had the rear shocks go. (Funny, the lowest mileage one, the 02 Deville with 44k had the rear shocks and front sway bushings go. Bad roads I guess. Plus, the ps pump went bad). 2 had the subwoofer give out. 2 (possibly 3, I think also the 02 after I traded it in) had to have the ac compressors replaced. Only one, my son's 01 Deville, had the head gasket go. All of them except the 02 had windows drop. )5 had the alternator fail. There may be a few othing things that I may have forgotten. I recently traded in my 05 Mary Kay for the 06 DTS lux 3 that I drive now. A year ago we traded the 02 for a 2010 DTS Lux for my wife. I will most likely be selling my 01 Deville, no use for it, but a great running and looking car. If I had more room in my driveway I could just keep it. So as far as 2000-05's that will leave just my son's 01 Deville, and he loves the car. I don't think he will get rid of it soon. This sounds like alot of problems, but this is 4 cars that we used dailey and put a decent amount of miles on them. I am in no way complaining. I am a bit of a perfectionist, as soon as I see something is wrong (with caddies or my bikes) I have a habit of jumping right in to fix them myself.
  3. I realize that it has been a month, but at any rate the 'open L1' I believe indicates an open circuit to the alternator from the PCM. The PCM controls the field to the alternator. A new alternator will not fix that, it may in the wiring from the PCM to the alternator.
  4. What issues did your early 2000 Devilles have? I bought a 2005 Deville 3 years ago with 39,000 miles on it and it has been trouble free so far. They all had the torn plenum issue, the mode door actuator, they all went thru oil, both 01's had the lockup solenoid failure, and one of the 01's had a head gasket failure. I have an 05 Deville also and it had a torn plenum when I bought it. And a bad alternator. Even with these issues, these are great cars. To me, they are like Harleys, they all have about the same problems. if you can fix one, you can fix all of them.
  5. That sounds like a twin to the 2010 DTS Lux that I bought last January. I have a few early 2000 ish Devilles, and it seems most of the issues with those cars were straightened out with the new body style. One thing, if this car is from a Cadillac dealer, ask them to make it a Certified Used. This extends the Bumper to bumper warranty to 6 years, 100k miles. My 2010 is Certified Used, and that cinched the deal for me.
  6. I think most of the typical Cadillac problems were related to age, not miles. A few years ago I bought a clean one owner 02 Deville with only 44k miles. I knew it needed a few things before I bought it. I ended up replacing the rear shocks, plenum, mode actuator, steering column and a few other things that I had just recently replaced on the 2 2001 Devilles that we had, and they had in excess of 120k miles. After I traded the 02 in on the 2010 DTS we now have, the guy who bought the 02 said the ac compressor started failing, just like on our 01's . So even though the 02 had less than half the miles of the 01's, it was following right behind them in component failures, according to my unscientific research.
  7. I agree with the above. If you put your hands on the evaporator inlet and outlet piping, they should feel close to the same temp. If the outlet feels warm compared to the inlet, you are slightly low on freon, probably not low enough to throw a code yet.
  8. I had to run a wire thru the firewall on my 01 Deville for the hood tamper switch for the remote start. I cut a very small slit in the rubber boot surrounding the steering column where it penetrates the firewall, and slid the wire thru there.
  9. Actually they changed the headbolts sometime during the model year. On the other Caddy forum, a GM parts guy named Rippy (great guy) posted some info as to how to tell what headbolt pitch you may have in an 04.
  10. I am aware that one would think that the pressures reverse themselves, with the coolant being higher after a hot shutdown. I read where a guy on the other forum stated that when he popped the quick disconnect off the rad for the trans cooling line there was residual pressure there, indicating there may be a check valve inside the trans that locks in the pressure after the engine is shutdown, although I haven't had time to look in the transmission drawings to confirm this. If I was designing a heat transfer system, that is what I would do, but GM, who knows?
  11. Correct, although the pressures are more favorable for trans fluid into the coolant. The coolant does appear to be reddish. The trans fluid does not look bad. It is vented, so small amount of coolant that may be getting into the trans may be boiling out. At this point it is just a theory, until I get the time to take it apart. But, my point was I'm glad I did not jump right on another h/g repair, since the symptoms went away I do not think that h/g's are the problem now.
  12. I'll stick my 2 cents here also. I've done 2 h/g jobs, both with the engine in the car. How you want to do it is your decision. But Keven is correct, you do want to make sure it is the h/g before you start the job. I did not have alot of luck pumping 100 psi air into the cylinders on my 2 cars. After performing the air test twice on my 98, I got just a slight amount of air in the tank from #1 cylinder. On my son's 01 Deville, I could not get air flowing on any cylinder. But he indeed had a bad h/g.So the air test is not always accurate. Also, the tried and true block test may not always exactly correct. Last summer, my 01 Deville started to indicate a slightly (1 bar) higher temp when going up long hills.No coolant loss or any other symptoms. The block test showed slightly green. Due to other issues, I did not have the time to fix it right away (luckily), Here it is October and I am still driving it 50 miles a day for work, and with the cooler weather, it shows no symptoms at all. The car is still not using coolant, but it is going thru transmission fluid at a high rate. That, along with the smell of the coolant, makes me think I have a trans fluid leak in the radiator. The block test kit looks for hydrocarbons. I'm no chemist, but I think transmission fluid also contains hydrocarbons. My point here, make absolutely sure before you go thru all the trouble that the h/g is actually bad.
  13. I did not use studs, I used timeserts once and Norm's inserts the second time. I'm sure that there is not nearly enough room to do studs, but there is plenty of room when doing inserts. I had a few shortcuts that I figuired out, and although most people wont agree, I believe my way to be easier. Most of the work is inside the engine, due to the overhead cams and chains. Years ago when I was researching doing the hg, I saw on the other Caddy forum most of the guys talked about breaking into the ac system.
  14. I'm just going by what other people said. I did both my hg replacements with the engine in the car.
  15. Timeserts, Norms inserts, and studs are the accepted repairs for Northstars. I've used timeserts once, and Norms once in the 2 HG jobs I did. Although I had no problems with the timeserts, I would use the Norms in the future due to the more robust design. I would not let anyone try 'bigger bolts'. Good information in the above posts concerning what else to replace. I would replace the ac compressor as you mentioned, the system must be broken into to drop the cradle anyway. The only ac failures I have had owning 7 devilles 1988 to 2005 were compressor related, injesting themselves and spreading shrapnel thru the system. That being said, it is your decision as to how much to put into your car. I replaced the hg on my son's 2001 Deville last winter, the car has 170k miles on it now, and I do not regret it, but I did all the work myself so the cost was much lower.
  16. When I did mine, the engine did not drop. Trusting memory here, but the mounts also bolt to the block.
  17. It is quite possible. Just harder...I have done that with help from the guru and the other guuys here on the forum! Yes, please do not say it is impossible. I replaced the HG and timeserted without removing the engine. What is preferrable depends on the mechanic and what he has available to use.
  18. I just changed plugs on my 01 Deville a few weeks ago. I just removed the 3 bolts, then the 2 nuts that hold the pipe to the valve. After the vale is remove the pipe will swing against the firewall. I had to twist the engine a bit to get the coil cassette out. But no need to disconnect anything under the car.
  19. When I tested mine, I only had a leak from number 1 cylinder to the coolant passages. I noticed that the bolts were much looser on the back head. All I could see on the gasket was a very thin shiny line between #1 and the coolant jacket, pointing towards the front of the engine. It looked like the gasket was actually cut buy the combustion gas.
  20. When my H/G went on my 98, I could not make it over this big hill I had to climb coming home from work without overheating. On the level is was so-so, but the car got to the point of really not drivable. I tested with 120 psi on each cylinder with the surge cap removed, and there were no bubbles or anything. I tested it a few times, finally I tried reinstalling the cap while testing to see if any pressure would build up. Eventually on number one cylinder when I removed the cap I heard just a little bit of sloshing. I was really surprised that was all I saw, I expected major bubbling considering how bad the car was. Also, I kept seeing coolant on the passenger side of the radiator, where the hose connected. I thought a seam was leaking. After I did the H/G's, I pressure tested the radiator with no leaks, so I reinstalled it. It's been almost a year, and it's dry. I think the reason it was wet was some type of draft while moving was blowing the coolant from the overflow tube forward and landing the the radiator. You could also see at the time the bottom of the tube was wet, along with the fenderwell on that side. Just my observation and opinion.
  21. When the head gasket went on my 98, I noticed the drivers side of the radiator was cool, and one time both sides of my radiator were cool. even though the dash said it was 240 degrees. When the head gasket goes, it pumps combustion gas into the coolant passages and pushes the coolant out the overflow. Then what I think happens is that the system gets airbound. When the water pump gets airbound, it cant pump. If the coolant doesnt circulate, the coolant in the radiator gets cooled very fast due to the heat load being so low, because no heated coolant is pumped into the radiator. Thats why it feels cool. Although I never tried it, I think a good test for a head gasket failing is to tie wrap a balloon (or condom) over the overflow hose and take it for a ride up a long hill. If the balloon gets full of coolant (or is melted off), I would think a head gasket is failing.
  22. It's only common because so many so called mechanics feel the need to muscle the plug. I just give it a twist with my wrist to tighten it with a short combination wrench, and in over 30 years of changing oil I never had a plug come loose.
  23. I have been thinking about doing this also I just did my first headgasket and timesert with the engine in the car back in January. I would have no problem doing it again. I also would love to find a deal on another one with a blown h/g. I would love to hear more about doing the HG in the car as I would like to repair mine the same way over the remaining winter months as the car is just sitting... what were the major obsticles? I posted over at Cadillacforums.com some details, I just copied it and and I will post it here also. I have some pics, but I'm not sure if I can post here.... I have been a lurker here for a few years, and have learned much from this forum. Recently I needed to replace the head gaskets on my 98 Deville. Against most recommendations, I decided to replace them leaving the engine in the car. After doing some research and staring at the problem I decided that for me, at least, it would be easier to leave the engine in place. One reason was that I was in no hurry, as I have my truck to drive, also, because of other obligations I know I would only have a few hours here and there to work on it. At any rate, it took me 7 weeks start to finish, and I estimate about 60-70 hours of actual work. If I were to do another one (and I surely would if the price was right on another car) I'm sure I could cut the man hours by at least 30%. I found a few shortcuts along the way, and I would like to share them with anyone else attempting to do the same. First off, I did not remove the coolant crossover or the timing cover. I replaced the upper crossover gaskets since they came off with the head, but I saw no evidence of leakage on the lower ones. I felt I could retract the tensioners without removing the balancer and cover, and in fact I did. I broke a chain guide when removing the rear head, so I ended up unbolting the timing cover anyway , which slid open enough to get in there to replace the guide. Timing the engine is no big deal. Before disassembly I put the engine at tdc of number 1 cylinder, locked the crank, and locked the camshafts. I used bungees to hold the chains tight so they wouldnt slip on the gear inside. Somehow the rear chain did slip a few teeth, but it was no problem since the engine and cams were locked and could not turn it was easy to spot and upon reassembly I just slipped a few teeth on the internal gear until the cam gears lined up. I unbolted the front exhaust manifold from the head and left it in the car. I unbolted the rear flange and remove the manifold with the rear head. It was awkward reinstalling, but with 2 helpers (one to help hold the head and another to guide the chains thru the head) it was not a problem. To gain clearance in the back getting at the heater pipes and removing the valve cover, I used a small cable hoist to pull the engine forward. That extra half inch meant alot. I decided to go with the timesert kit over the Norm's. The Norm's kit makes alot of sense, but I thought I would rather have the advantage of the drill guides in the timesert kit. I found a used one on Ebay for $300. Luckily, all the drill shavings were shiny, no black dust. I taped over the top of the block and cut around the holes for drilling. I ended up renting a right angle drill from Home Depot to get at the back bolts. Some were pretty tight even with the right angle drill. The timesert kit is really slick. Took no time at all to do all 20 holes. At any rate, it's been back together for a week, I have a put about 200 miles on it with no overheating or coolant loss, so it looks like a sucess so far. Time will tell. If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask. As I said, this method worked for me. Dropping the cradle may be better for you. One issue, although important, I felt really gets overblown is timing the engine. Disassemble the engine at TDC of number 1, and lock the crank and cams, and you really cant go wrong. Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post! Reply With Quote
  24. On my 95 Deville I used to own, I bought a used universal remote cd changer off of ebay. I mounted it in the trunk, and put the remote unit on the dash. It was the fm modulator type. Worked great for 5 years until I got rid of the car. On the 98 that I have now I would like to install the gm unit, since the wiring is already in the trunk for it.
  25. I have been thinking about doing this also I just did my first headgasket and timesert with the engine in the car back in January. I would have no problem doing it again. I also would love to find a deal on another one with a blown h/g.
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