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ISS Sensor Replacement


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The next time I do this job however, it will be easier...

???????????????????????????????????????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!???????????????????????????????

You know, in case I sell this thing and buy what I want....

Congrats on the successful repair! You have too much invested in that car to sell it now - it is like a new car. I think the input speed sensor job qualifies for the hall of fame award. :lol:

You need to drive by the old guy's house and make sure he sees you.... then remind him of his wrong prediction that it would never run again ;)

Kevin, he saw it before I left and had his tail between his legs and apoligized for doubting me. He was shocked when he looked at the engine compartment and saw how clean and organized it was. He still could not believe that i was going to drive it to Pennsylvania, Virginia and home.. I told him I had big stones! :lol: (and a trunk full of tools just in case)

thtanuki-balls.gif

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

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Mike,

congratulations! What a great job!! Hats off to you and enjoy your "new" ride!

Best

Stefan

Thanks Stefan, yes it certainly does feel new! Thanks, Mike

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Mike,

As you know, I'm nearby.

Just give me the "old man's" address. Halloween isn't so far away as you might think! :lol: Are you with me?

Regards,

Warren

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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Again, my humble congrats.

I have been using 15w40 Rotella in mine for over a year... if I have a loss in mileage, it's so slight I can't detect it. Thus, if you have a loss of mileage, I might look elsewhere.

In fact, since my tranny fluid replacement, my mileage is up around 9%... I'm not smart enough to speculate on why. Zonie, or Ranger, or Warren probably know... My only speculation might be that the torque converter is doing a better job of locking up... but I could be way off base on that.

Someone named Chevelle on the other board had posted a lot of good reasons for using 15w40 in a Northstar, calling it the "ideal" oil for the engine. He seemed smart. I tried it, and I'm happy. It's way cheaper than Mobil One 10w30, which I had been using, and I think the car is running better.

Not to start another oil thread (heaven forbid), I'm just throwing that out there for ya....

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Again, my humble congrats.

I have been using 15w40 Rotella in mine for over a year... if I have a loss in mileage, it's so slight I can't detect it. Thus, if you have a loss of mileage, I might look elsewhere.

In fact, since my tranny fluid replacement, my mileage is up around 9%... I'm not smart enough to speculate on why. Zonie, or Ranger, or Warren probably know... My only speculation might be that the torque converter is doing a better job of locking up... but I could be way off base on that.

Someone named Chevelle on the other board had posted a lot of good reasons for using 15w40 in a Northstar, calling it the "ideal" oil for the engine. He seemed smart. I tried it, and I'm happy. It's way cheaper than Mobil One 10w30, which I had been using, and I think the car is running better.

Not to start another oil thread (heaven forbid), I'm just throwing that out there for ya....

I do believe Chevelle recommended 15W-40 for 4.1, 4.5, 4.9 engines not Northstar. Nevertheless, if you find the link I would doublecheck.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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I may need to buy the actuator. I have had a problem where when I am going UP a long hill, I loose AC out of the vents, so maybe this is related. By the way my parking brake works but it is slow.

Sure sounds like a vacuum leak rather than an actuator Mike.

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Again, my humble congrats.

I have been using 15w40 Rotella in mine for over a year... if I have a loss in mileage, it's so slight I can't detect it. Thus, if you have a loss of mileage, I might look elsewhere.

In fact, since my tranny fluid replacement, my mileage is up around 9%... I'm not smart enough to speculate on why. Zonie, or Ranger, or Warren probably know... My only speculation might be that the torque converter is doing a better job of locking up... but I could be way off base on that.

Someone named Chevelle on the other board had posted a lot of good reasons for using 15w40 in a Northstar, calling it the "ideal" oil for the engine. He seemed smart. I tried it, and I'm happy. It's way cheaper than Mobil One 10w30, which I had been using, and I think the car is running better.

Not to start another oil thread (heaven forbid), I'm just throwing that out there for ya....

Hey Patrick, thanks a lot, I appreciate that, if you find that thread that Chevelle commented in, post a link I am very interested in seeing it. Yes Chevelle is a sharp guy. My NS loves the 15W40...

My loss of mileage is probably in my head and the result of mixed driving, my average was only 41 MPH.. Hey congratulations on your new car, its a good looking vehicle..

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I may need to buy the actuator. I have had a problem where when I am going UP a long hill, I loose AC out of the vents, so maybe this is related. By the way my parking brake works but it is slow.

Sure sounds like a vacuum leak rather than an actuator Mike.

Its funny, I have looked at all possible vacuum leak points. If anyone has a photo of the area or can link me to one on this site I would appreciate it. I stupidly left my manual home...

Ranger I have had this up the hill AC loss since I bought my car. The final piece of the puzzle is the ACM that also controls the parking brake that is slow. Is the ACM the same as the actuator? I assume this is behind the glove box correct?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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No. The ACM and Actuators are two different things. The ACM controls the actuators. The ACM is behind the glove box or in that vicinity. It is recognizable by 5 or 6 vacuum lines attached as well as several electrical plugs. Have you checked for a leaky brake release diaphragm?

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The last timeserter I think was KHE, if you find his thread, I don't think you will find any complaints from him during that job nor did he appear to get stumped or stopped by any problems... THAT IS IMPRESSIVE.. Plus he picked up the car with a car carrier and took the ENGINE out from the top...AND he was quick.

I didn't complain here but there were some tense moments and also many instances where I came up with new combinations of cuss-words.... Fortunately, it was cool outside and my garage door was closed. :lol:

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Hi Mike! So glad to hear you got her done! Congratulations! :) What a load off huh. Did you have any idea how involved it would be? Looks like you took no shortcuts and replaced everything that needed replacing....that's awesome! You're a great role model here and inspiration to us all. Hope your hands look normal soon. :D

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No. The ACM and Actuators are two different things. The ACM controls the actuators. The ACM is behind the glove box or in that vicinity. It is recognizable by 5 or 6 vacuum lines attached as well as several electrical plugs. Have you checked for a leaky brake release diaphragm?

Yes I replaced the brake release servo. I have a feeling that I need an ACM or there is a porous hose under the dash.. I bought an actuator today..

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Just wanted to say, "You Rock!" simply amazing, my hat is off to you, BBF.

peter

Thanks Peter

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Hi Mike! So glad to hear you got her done! Congratulations! :) What a load off huh. Did you have any idea how involved it would be? Looks like you took no shortcuts and replaced everything that needed replacing....that's awesome! You're a great role model here and inspiration to us all. Hope your hands look normal soon. :D

I was driving it tonight and it flies.... WOT's are powerful and the engine sounds solid. I think we all should pull our throttle bodies off and clean them thoroughly, it made a big difference.. My hands are a mess, i was in the ocean all day today at virginia beach and all of the scabs opened up.... OUCH.. :lol: This job made a big difference to my cars performance. This is a reason why I do it myself, I could not afford to pay a mechanic to do what I did... its a shame that my immediate family members don't realize that.. I took a lot of criticism from my family during this job, especially my mother in law. Thank god for this site, it keeps me going.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Fabulous job, Mike .. and about the vacuum line problem, mine failed and I found some dry rotted hose on the passenger side wheel well near the firewall .. lot of other places it could happen but that spot is worth a look ... as if you haven't been all over it anyway !

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Fabulous job, Mike .. and about the vacuum line problem, mine failed and I found some dry rotted hose on the passenger side wheel well near the firewall .. lot of other places it could happen but that spot is worth a look ... as if you haven't been all over it anyway !

:lol: I replaced that piece of dry rotted hose also! It didn't make a difference and I thought it would. Its odd you are correct, I have been all over it, I replaced the nylon tubing that runs from the check valve to the tank, bought it from Caddy its a complex form. I even replaced the connector at the tank and did a vacuum test and it held.

I was under the dash today looking for the actuator, it must be behind the glove compartment, because its not above the sound panel. I am going to need to buy a small torx socket to get the glove compartment out tomorrow to replace this actuator. I had warm air coming out of the vents and I went around and felt the accumulator and it was freezing... yeah

While I was under the dash, I noticed what appeared to be a rectangular block where colored vacuum hoses were plugged maybe some sort of valve in along with wires. Its possible that that vacuum junction is leaking, but I am going to replace the nylon hose from that block to the check valve under the hood, that hose goes through the firewall and could be chafed.

Thanks

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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While I was under the dash, I noticed what appeared to be a rectangular block where colored vacuum hoses were plugged maybe some sort of valve in along with wires.

That's the ACM aka programmer. You can see one actuator from the glove box after it is removed. The other from underneath after you remove the insulator panel.

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While I was under the dash, I noticed what appeared to be a rectangular block where colored vacuum hoses were plugged maybe some sort of valve in along with wires.

That's the ACM aka programmer. You can see one actuator from the glove box after it is removed. The other from underneath after you remove the insulator panel.

Ranger I don't have two zone heating/cooling. I think that I heard that in the two zone types there are two actuators. I think my actuator is behind the glove box I am going to sears to buy a small Torx set so I can remove it.. Thanks, Mike

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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In the dual zone systems, the driver's side actuator is the one that is on the bottom of the HVAC housing - accessed by removing the lower hush panel. The passenger side actuator is on top of the HVAC box and is accessed by removing the glove box. Since your's is a single zone system, I don't know what position the actuator would be in (top or bottom). You'll find it in one of the two places - to calibrate it, set the temp to 90 degrees and wait for at least 1 minute with the ignition in the RUN position. Then move the door by hand to the full warm position and then snap the rod into the actuator. You may need to run the engine so you can tell the warm position from the cold position.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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While I was under the dash, I noticed what appeared to be a rectangular block where colored vacuum hoses were plugged maybe some sort of valve in along with wires.

That's the ACM aka programmer. You can see one actuator from the glove box after it is removed. The other from underneath after you remove the insulator panel.

Ranger I don't have two zone heating/cooling. I think that I heard that in the two zone types there are two actuators. I think my actuator is behind the glove box I am going to sears to buy a small Torx set so I can remove it.. Thanks, Mike

My '97 had dual zone so I assumed your '96 did as well. In that case there is just one as Kevin said.

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This is what Chevelle said about rotella/delvac re: northstars...

I would recommend the Rotella/Delvac/Delo oils for the 93-99 Northstars, personally. The latest ILSAC fuel economy oils are getting very low in ZDP concentration. Fine with the newest engines on the road but not so fine for a 93 Northstar.

You can get the Rotella/Delvac/Delo oils in 10W30 for your engine but they are much harder to find. Check a truck stop or large equipment supplier. If all you can find is the 15W40 version of the Rotella/Delvac/Delo that is fine in the 93 Northstar. The oil is not that much thicker to hurt anything unless you live in the far north and need to cold start at -40.

This is the whole thread link. Took me forever to find it...

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/north...api-grades.html

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This is what Chevelle said about rotella/delvac re: northstars...

I would recommend the Rotella/Delvac/Delo oils for the 93-99 Northstars, personally. The latest ILSAC fuel economy oils are getting very low in ZDP concentration. Fine with the newest engines on the road but not so fine for a 93 Northstar.

You can get the Rotella/Delvac/Delo oils in 10W30 for your engine but they are much harder to find. Check a truck stop or large equipment supplier. If all you can find is the 15W40 version of the Rotella/Delvac/Delo that is fine in the 93 Northstar. The oil is not that much thicker to hurt anything unless you live in the far north and need to cold start at -40.

This is the whole thread link. Took me forever to find it...

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/north...api-grades.html

Hey Patrick thanks for that, I appreciate that greatly. I was afraid that although my 96 is running FANTASTIC and I only used a 1/4 of a quart this week on a 1,050 mile trip, that I might be quietly doing damage. My engine sounds fantastic. Thanks for taking the time to find that link, Mike

Now does anyone know if this Chevelle person is reputible? <_<:D

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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