new owner of used '99 DeVille

[Ranger]

Look at the radiator side tanks. You should see lines to each side. I believe the right side is oil cooler lines, and left side is trans cooler lines. I think the small cooler you see in front of the condenser may be a P/S fluid cooler.

[GreenMachine]

When it comes time to replace tires, I have so far loved the Pirelli P3000 CINTURATO M&S™. Their priced at around 80-100 each (depending where you get them, any American Car Care centers have them for mid to low 90's). They have excellant traction in all conditions and hold the road well, they look good shined up, I regret not getting whitewalls for my Deville but they still look good (not sure if they make them in whitewall anymore):

http://www.us.pirelli.com/en_US/tyres/cata...;productid=2664

http://www.us.pirelli.com/en_US/tyres/cata...;productid=2664

"Power is nothing without control"

With that said you still can't go wrong with a quality Michelin tire. I didn't like the Symmetry (winter traction was terrible and they wore fast and weren't afriad to sqeal on the curvy on ramps) but as a whole they are a great brand.

[RichieR]

Again thank you for the welcomes and all the suggestions.

Called the deler today about the keys, they bought the car at an

auction, therefore no remote or extra keys (and they not are cadillac dealer, but I got a great price, 'as-is', otherwise would have never been able to afford a luxary car like this :-) )

I will do my searches on ebay.

Thanks,

Vlad

Buying the remotes is one thing, but they will have to be programmed for your car. There's probably a documented procedure to do this if you want to do it on your own. Otherwise, you can ask a Cadillac dealer what they would charge to do it for you. Regarding the extra keys, give some locksmiths a call and ask them if they can make copies of ignition keys with resistor pellets in them. That will save you some money. Obviously, making a copy of the door key won't be a problem.

[epricedright]

I have the Michelin X Radial black walls and absolutely love them. I bought them at Costco for around $400 for the set. Best tire I've owned. I didn't like the Michelin Symmetries either.

[PAUL T]

To reprogram the RKE go here:

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/cad98rke.html

[RichieR]

To reprogram the RKE go here:

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/cad98rke.html

I was looking at the programming procedures and for the '97 Deville, it says to use the Driver Information Center to program the RKE. For 1998 and newer, it says that you need a Tech-2 Scan Tool to do the programming.

Basically, the '97-'99 Devilles are identical. Why wouldn't you be able to use the DIC as well for the '98 & '99 models? Is it possible that the updated procedure was applicable to the '98 Seville since the Seville changed that year?

It's obviously more convenient (and less expensive) to use the DIC to do the programming. I wonder if the programming procedure for the '97 Deville would work for '98 & '99.

[90vtwin]

Thanks to Paul T for the link on the FOBs and programming.

I just ordered the #1 remote from the gmpartsdirect. Then I thought I could either get or rent

the programming tool, but it is 2K so I will ask local dealers or some of the cadillac mechanics

in the are how much they would charge to program it...

on another note saw a set of service manuals for '99 on the ebay today, but someone bought

them for $65 before I had a chance :-)

but from the readings of this board the DVDs should have the same info, plus searcheable as well.

Have to figure out how to keep the black car and black interior cool, it is so hot down here

in FL these days (we had a guy at work who tried that 'autocooler for 20$' and does not

work at all)

[GreenMachine]

got a sunroof on that thing? If so putting it in "vent" mode works "ok" and helps a small bit, pushing the close button an extra time will make it pop the back up like in the picture below my post.

[90vtwin]

nope, do not have a sunroof.

I spent some time reading the forums on the timesert issue

for these cars... pretty scary if that happens

I asked the mechanic about my coolant, he said there is no

way to test it. It has pink stuff in it, he said it is 'extended mileadge'

but now I am reading that Premix green should be put in, so I am confused.

certainly want to do anything possible to avoid pulling the engine out.

I also ordered no-rosion

http://www.no-rosion.com/

but will first figure out if works in a test tube, and then most likely

on my LS-1 (as I like my new cadillac enough to store the LS1 for a year

or so :-) )

[BodybyFisher]

Dexcool's corrosion protection lasts 5 years or 100K to 150K miles depending on which one you buy. The green is good for 24 months or 24,000 miles. I like the added cushion of Dexcool... 24 months or 24K miles comes up fast. In addition, green has silicates that are harder on your water pump seal dimishing its life.

Dexcool has a bad rap because if its used in a cast iron engine and allowed to run low, rust buildup can develop (oxidation maybe?) and I think many mechanics have heard that and are reluctant to use it..

Whatever you decide to use keep it fresh, but I would stay with the Dexcool if I were you

[epricedright]

Have to figure out how to keep the black car and black interior cool, it is so hot down here

in FL these days (we had a guy at work who tried that 'autocooler for 20$' and does not

work at all)

If you ever park outside, use one of those reflective windshield shades. I was just in FL and it made a big difference...I have a black leather interior as well.

Is the auto cooler one of those fans that goes in your window while you're parked? I wondered if those worked?

Bottomline, you have to keep the sun out as much as possible. Do you have tinted windows? The tint I have makes a HUGE difference.

[KHE]

nope, do not have a sunroof.

I spent some time reading the forums on the timesert issue

for these cars... pretty scary if that happens

I asked the mechanic about my coolant, he said there is no

way to test it. It has pink stuff in it, he said it is 'extended mileadge'

but now I am reading that Premix green should be put in, so I am confused.

certainly want to do anything possible to avoid pulling the engine out.

I also ordered no-rosion

http://www.no-rosion.com/

but will first figure out if works in a test tube, and then most likely

on my LS-1 (as I like my new cadillac enough to store the LS1 for a year

or so :-) )

Where have you been reading that green antifreeze should be used???? Do not install green antifreeze in your Northstar - rergardless of how much some "mechanic" want's to re-engineer the cooling system on your car... DexCool provides the best corrosion protection for the Northstar engine.

[GreenMachine]

Ah shame on no sun-roof.

There is a way to test the Dexcool for proper mix, my local shop did it and told "hey good job to whoever changed it" which was me

As said above if kept in check and at proper levels dexcool is a great coolant.

Also the local news did a story on the auto-cooler in thier "as seen on TV" segment take a look at this link to the article: http://www.wgrz.com/money/consumer/reviews...x?storyid=39765

direct to video: http://www.wgrz.com/video/AsSeenOnTVVplaye...d=16738&bw=

during out heatwave people were buying them and told "2 on your side" to check them out, they did and found they basically suck.

[The Fred]

I think that the auto cooler thing doesn't work because it does not move enough air. I bet that stupid thing also lets water in.

Parking in the shade and tinted windows are your best bet outside of installing a remote starter.. those can be had for $40 at the damned wal-mart store and the range is very good on them. Bulldog makes them.

[JohnnyG]

Why in the world would you order that norosion stuff? No, I did not follow the link, but from all the people that have posted stuff to help you out, I don't remember reading one that said this stuff was advisable.

Disregard what your "mechanic" is telling you about green coolant. As soon as the first drop is put in, you must change it 2/24,000 after that. For a '99 it's the Dexcool +sealant tabs installed in the LOWER RADIATOR HOSE (it says that right on my underhood sticker btw).

If you are worried about getting the concentration correct, just buy the 50/50 pre-mixed stuff, drain everything that you can from the radiator drain, remove one end of the lower rad hose (it goes from the rad to the water pump) install the sealant tabs or Bar's Leak Powder, and refill. What could be simpler?

[90vtwin]

Why in the world would you order that norosion stuff? No, I did not follow the link, but from all the people that have posted stuff to help you out, I don't remember reading one that said this stuff was advisable.

Disregard what your "mechanic" is telling you about green coolant. As soon as the first drop is put in, you must change it 2/24,000 after that. For a '99 it's the Dexcool +sealant tabs installed in the LOWER RADIATOR HOSE (it says that right on my underhood sticker btw).

If you are worried about getting the concentration correct, just buy the 50/50 pre-mixed stuff, drain everything that you can from the radiator drain, remove one end of the lower rad hose (it goes from the rad to the water pump) install the sealant tabs or Bar's Leak Powder, and refill. What could be simpler?

Hi, probably did not state effectively what he said, he said that it is good coolant there (pink stuff)

and that it is extended life, but he has no way to test it.

I bought no-rosion actually prior to my cadillac, did not get it yet (but I also bought coolant testers from them). In winter I ride my motorcycle to work and back, so all my cars will not be used

most of the time (that's how I keep my per-year gasoline use low, as my Magna gets 44 mpg :-))

So my 'winter' conservation procedures just need to make sure that the engines are not

corroding. Which is a problem that classic car owners have. No-rosion is used by those.

I think that 6 month in the garage with occasional weekend drive is a better way then

adding bunch of additives to coolant/fuel/oil/etc. Nervertheless I bought it and may try it, but

again, I will first mix it with my coolant in a jar, and have allumnum bolts in there for a couple

fo weeks to see if it works better/different than without no-rosion.

Where do I get the tablets, at the dealership?

thanks,

Vlad

[Regis]

The pulsating resistance you're feeling might be a worn strut bearing. Jackup the front end so the wheels hang. With the key in the ignition, turn the key enough to work the accessories but not crank over the engine. You'll need a friend for this next part. Grab one of the front tires at 3 and 9 o'clock and turn it side to side fully. If the opposite tire shutters / stutters while doing this then the strut bearing needs replacing. Do the same procedure on the other side. Chances are only one side will need a bearing. Welcome!

[ted tcb]

90Btwin : Like your car, my 97 STS came from the dealer without a working key fob.

This was a GM dealer, but when you press on the margins, they simply

will not fix every issue on a 7yr old car (at the time of purchase).

The car had 2 remotes, both dead. I picked my issues, and had him touch up the paint, replace the fuel sending unit, replace the ac compressor, and replace the rubber. I was on my own for the remotes.

New batteries did nothing, and both circuit boards looked clean.

I bought a new fob, being careful to get the right ser.#, from Ebay.

I think the fob was around $40.

The reprogram procedure didn't work for me, so I paid my local dealer about $50, and all was well.

[Ranger]

Where do I get the tablets, at the dealership?

Get them at any GM dealer or buy Barsleaks tabs (product code HDC). They are the same thing. Barsleaks makes them for GM.

[JohnnyG]

Hi, probably did not state effectively what he said, he said that it is good coolant there (pink stuff)

and that it is extended life, but he has no way to test it.

I think I understand a little bit better now. But you have to remember a few things when dealing with all aluminum engines. Unlike the old classic cars with cast iron blocks, coolant in an all aluminum engine will NEVER appear rusty..there is just nothing to rust. Dexcool is a completely different approach to preventing corrosion than the old silicated stuff. The Dexcool should only be changed on time or miles, and never on appearance. Maybe your mechanic is unaware of the implications when there is no iron at all in the block design. Before you put norosion in your engine, you might want to find out how it interacts with Dexcool technology, or aluminum in general. If it contains silicates, keep it out of your Northstar.

[90vtwin]

I think I understand a little bit better now. But you have to remember a few things when dealing with all aluminum engines. Unlike the old classic cars with cast iron blocks, coolant in an all aluminum engine will NEVER appear rusty..there is just nothing to rust. Dexcool is a completely different approach to preventing corrosion than the old silicated stuff. The Dexcool should only be changed on time or miles, and never on appearance. Maybe your mechanic is unaware of the implications when there is no iron at all in the block design. Before you put norosion in your engine, you might want to find out how it interacts with Dexcool technology, or aluminum in general. If it contains silicates, keep it out of your Northstar.

yes, that's exactly what I plan to do. Their site claims that it is compatible, but I will

test it anyways.

http://www.no-rosion.com/faq.htm

Q. Is No-Rosion compatible with the antifreeze currently in my vehicles cooling system?

A. Yes. It is compatible with all types of antifreeze, including ethylene glycol and non-toxic propylene glycol. This includes traditional silicate-based (green-colored), Extended Life (orange-colored), and Universal Extended Life (yellow-colored) antifreezes.

I also reviewed (even before, for my LS1) the lawsuit initiated against GM Dexcool, but

I did not understand the evidence well, except failing gaskets.

I think if there is a problem it may be with the 5year/100K miles claim and not

with the performance within 3year/50K miles

(however, at that time, which was a year ago, I basically

switched my LS1 to distilled water and 3-4 bottles of waterwetter and did not have any

cooling issues sofar (although I plan to flush every year when the store them anyways,

and did not have my engine apart to check for corrosion)

Thanks for the follow up

[Ranger]

I basically

switched my LS1 to distilled water and 3-4 bottles of waterwetter and did not have any

cooling issues sofar

Do I understand you to mean that you are running with no coolant?

[90vtwin]

I basically

switched my LS1 to distilled water and 3-4 bottles of waterwetter and did not have any

cooling issues sofar

Do I understand you to mean that you are running with no coolant?

Red Line's Watter-Wetter (which prevents corrosion, lubricates) plus distilled water

so I do not have anything that a) increases boiling point b)prevents freezing

My thermostat is 160 and my ECU is programmed to turn on the fans sooner

than the stock LS1.

[JohnnyG]

Check back in when you need head gaskets.

[90vtwin]

It is complex, but everytime I work on it I am at awe of the design. I am finding it very easy and straight forward to work on. I love the on-board diagnostics, it gives you the codes for almost everything that is wrong with the car, and the Factory Service Manual tells you how to deal with it. Have you checked the diagnostics yet? Turn key on, engine off, press and hold for a few seconds the "off" and "warmer" buttons on the climate control panel and write down any codes that appear in the message center. When you get the "PCM?" message it is done. Hit "auto" button or turn the key off to get out of diagnostics. Post your findings.

Hi, changed front rotors, front brakes, coolant (and added the Bar's powder),

bled brake fluid (through front only though),

replaced power steering fluid (the iterative method :-) ). And also recorded my codes

(I assume they are historical meaning that they are not happening now since the SES light

is not on ?)

P1632 - Theft Deterrent Fuel Disable Signal Received

B1126 - Driver Deployment Loop Open

C1125 Left Front Excessive Wheel Speed Variation

B2120 - Lumbar Up/Down Sensor Failed

B1983 - Device Power Circuit Low

B0856 - B0856 - Battery 2 Out of Range

U1300

U1000

I referred to

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd2b.html#bod

but Could not click on 'U' codes it said that 'server failed'

The battery was replaced before I bought the car,

is there anything in the above I should be worrying about (like this C1125 if that happened

to the car before?)

Thanks in advance,

Vlad