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new owner of used '99 DeVille


90vtwin

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Hi everyone,

Glad to find a forum for these cars. I am now a proud owner of black '99 DeVille Concours with 75K miles on it.

Do not know who the original owner was, and do not have any service history with the car

(the oil change sticker says to change oil at 74K... that's it).

So I wanted to ask what things I should change right a way

(and if they are sufficiently simple for a hobby-mechanic with just less than 1 year

experience with other GM engine (I have a TransAM with LS1)

My plan is

1) flash oil then change with mineral oil ( 20-50 as I live in South Florida, it is hot here) without any oil additives (such

as Lucas)

2)Drain Transmission Fluid and replace with GM's DextroN III

3) Drain and replace coolant with 50/50 and some Water Wetter

(actually on my TransAM I just have water mixed with the Water Wetter

as I do not need 'anti-freeze' in South FL)

4) Change sparc plugs to Irridium Tip spark plugs

5) Grind to be even existing front brake rotors (the steering wheel shakes

when braking, so I assume it is un-even brake rotors)

6) replace brake pads

Anything else that I can do myself and it makes sence like PCV valve or

anything like that?

Also is there an aftermarket fitting fabric cover for the dash board to protect from the sun

here (I have this on all my other cars to prevent dash-board cracks)

thanks in advance,

Vlad

P.S. this is a great car, even after my modded TransAM I feel some power and it is still

quet and comfortable :-)

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1) No need to run anything like 20W-50 oil. Many places see much higher temperatures than S Florida and the factory fill oil viscosity does just fine.

3) Freeze protection is not the only reason to use 'anti-freeze'. Anti-freeze also modifies (increases) the boiling temperature of the coolant.

4) Unless you just enjoy replacing spark plugs every 10,000 miles or chasing down a mis-fire, the only plug to use in a Northstar is the specified ACDelco.

Welcome and enjoy.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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(actually on my TransAM I just have water mixed with the Water Wetter

as I do not need 'anti-freeze' in South FL)

Welcome. I'm sure you will enjoy the new ride.

The only thing I would add to what JimD said is that coolant also contains anit-corrosion additives. NEVER use straight water unless you enjoy replacing head gaskets.

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Hi everyone,

Glad to find a forum for these cars. I am now a proud owner of black '99 DeVille Concours with 75K miles on it.

Do not know who the original owner was, and do not have any service history with the car

(the oil change sticker says to change oil at 74K... that's it).

So I wanted to ask what things I should change right a way

(and if they are sufficiently simple for a hobby-mechanic with just less than 1 year

experience with other GM engine (I have a TransAM with LS1)

My plan is

1) flash oil then change with mineral oil ( 20-50 as I live in South Florida, it is hot here) without any oil additives (such as Lucas) The 20W50 is not advised, use what is recommended in your manual, I believe that is 10W30

2)Drain Transmission Fluid and replace with GM's DextroN III Don't forget to drain the side pan..

3) Drain and replace coolant with 50/50 and some Water Wetter

(actually on my TransAM I just have water mixed with the Water Wetter

as I do not need 'anti-freeze' in South FL) You don't need anti-freeze but you need corrosion protection, use distilled water in the mix. If you use GREEN change it every two years or 24,000 miles and if you use Dexcool change it every 5 years or 100,000 miles. Don't forget to use the cooling supplement tablets! Do a search for a description

4) Change sparc plugs to Irridium Tip spark plugs The engine runs best on AC DELCO Platinum, if you find you are having problems rough idling or starting suspect the plugs..

5) Grind to be even existing front brake rotors (the steering wheel shakes

when braking, so I assume it is un-even brake rotors) Lots of information on this in the archives on this subject, if your calipers have rubber bushings in them for the slider, replace them.

6) replace brake pads

Welcome aboard

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

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Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Thank you for all the replies

I will use 10-30 mineral (although that I have seen on these threads that Mobil 1 syntetic

was also used... but I read on the northstar engine page that syntetic was not recommended)

I just had 8 bottles of 20-50 penzoil left over :-) so was hoping I could use those.

Water Wetter prevents corrosion but does not raise the boiling point

( my experience sofar is very positive)

http://e30m3performance.com/myths/more_myt...ater_wetter.htm

no one mentioned if the dashboard cover is available, I will try to fabricate my own then.

Love the car, could not sleep yesterday from the excitement :-). Never had

a luxury car before (and such a nice one)

Thanks again for all the replies, hope that one day I will be able to help others with my

advise.

Vlad

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Corrosion protection for an aluminum engine ESPECIALLY this engine is paramount. If the headgaskets corrode you will need head gaskets and possibly have a head bolt pull... Either way, the block needs time-serting, an expensive proposition.... Whatever you do, use proper coolant. Good Luck. I can feel your excitement..

Check this place for custom dash covers:

http://www.dashcoversdirect.com/

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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So, now that you know that everything in your first post is nearly completely wrong, what is your new plan?

On the tranny, do not take it to a flush place, DO drop the pan and check the filter, DO find the side cover plug when the pan is off and drain it since most of the old oil will be hidden in there. And of course refill it with the correct GM recomended fluid, which I think you have stated.

If you can afford to do it, (and this is not a reflection on your personal finances, I mean to afford the time AND the time it takes to find a good dealership) take it to a good dealership to have the transmission fluid changed. The dealership will also be able to do your Dexcool change for you, as well as know about adding the required sealant tabs to the lower radiator hose. The note calling for the tabs on the '99 should be on the plastic cover over the radiator, beside the word NOTICE.

I was talking to an owner of a 1999 STS (Z package) yesterday that did NOT know that he shoud change his coolant! 91,000 miles with the original coolant, and what, 7 years! Loved the car though, Dark Emerald Green, had had it up to 155 so he says.

Never underestimate the amount of a persons greed.

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Thank you for all the replies

I will use 10-30 mineral (although that I have seen on these threads that Mobil 1 syntetic

was also used... but I read on the northstar engine page that syntetic was not recommended)

I just had 8 bottles of 20-50 penzoil left over :-) so was hoping I could use those.

Water Wetter prevents corrosion but does not raise the boiling point

( my experience sofar is very positive)

http://e30m3performance.com/myths/more_myt...ater_wetter.htm

no one mentioned if the dashboard cover is available, I will try to fabricate my own then.

Love the car, could not sleep yesterday from the excitement :-). Never had

a luxury car before (and such a nice one)

Thanks again for all the replies, hope that one day I will be able to help others with my

advise.

Vlad

I have a '97 Base Deville (same design as your '99) and I love the car. Your Concours is loaded with many great features such as Stabilitrak, ActiveAudio Sound System, etc, etc, etc. Did you get the original window sticker with your car so you know which options you have? Are you familiar with all of the features on the Concours, because there are many.

Best of luck with your new car.

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Richie's comments above reminded me that you might like this source of information on your car:

http://100megsfree4.com/cadillac/cad1990/cad99d.htm

Also, you can get your owners manual in PDF format, to put on your hard drive here... Its a great thing to have as you can use Acrobats search function to quickly find things in your manual that you are looking for..... Search for FUSE, BAM every instance of FUSE...nice to have

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/resources-cad.html#om

You have a 300 HP engine in your concours....thats a Luxury Hotrod, the CAMS on your engine will tend to give your idle a slight lope, nice... My Deville only has a 275 HP engine... :(

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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If you can afford to do it, (and this is not a reflection on your personal finances, I mean to afford the time AND the time it takes to find a good dealership) take it to a good dealership to have the transmission fluid changed. T

All the Caddy dealers in my area wanted to flush the tranny..NOT!

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thank you for the Owner's manual links this is a great help.

My car did not come with remote control for locks/security... just the keys :-(

Has DSP/RDS stereo, heated seats, seat memory, side airbags and shiny wheels.

Thank you also for the note on sealant tabs.

Have not gone underneath yet, but from the top, there are absolutely no leaks or any other

abnormalities... looks like brand new engine just with a little dust, may be I just stumbled onto

a jewel :-) (I did not have a chance to check carefully when buying, so doing the inspection

'post-factum' now)

it also appears that I have to try to change my mind-set from my TransAM/LS1 experience.

In that world: after-market everything (fluds, plugs, brake rotors, ECU programmers,

engine parts... etc) and no dealerships (unless friends with a mechanic) should be touching your car

(it is a hobby world of a 'weekend-mechanics' who learn from the net and do not trust

factory recommendations :-) ). Northstar engines appear to be lot more difficult to work on

compared to the LSx ones (if something goes wrong), so I can see how 'shade-tree' mechanics

such as myself would simply screw up the thing and have to spend another 5K fixing it...

Vlad

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thank you for the Owner's manual links this is a great help.

My car did not come with remote control for locks/security... just the keys :-(

Has DSP/RDS stereo, heated seats, seat memory, side airbags and shiny wheels.

it also appears that I have to try to change my mind-set from my TransAM/LS1 experience.

In that world: after-market everything (fluds, plugs, brake rotors, ECU programmers,

engine parts... etc) and no dealerships (unless friends with a mechanic) should be touching your car (it is a hobby world of a 'weekend-mechanics' who learn from the net and do not trust

factory recommendations :-) ). Northstar engines appear to be lot more difficult to work on

compared to the LSx ones (if something goes wrong), so I can see how 'shade-tree' mechanics

such as myself would simply screw up the thing and have to spend another 5K fixing it...

Vlad

You can purchase your remote KEY FOB at the dealer or they sell on EBAY... I think you need to buy two, but you might be able to program the system with one FOB... but someone else will advise on that here.

You are very perceptive about having to change your mind set from what you already know, I am very impressed that you recognized that! I needed to relearn everything.... And you know what, when you understand the systems, it is NOT more difficult, as a matter of fact its very logical and you will find it to be a work of art.... Stick with us and become a contributing member there are some benefits to it.... Mike

Here is some history and interesting information on the Northstar:

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us100232.htm

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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It is complex, but everytime I work on it I am at awe of the design. I am finding it very easy and straight forward to work on. I love the on-board diagnostics, it gives you the codes for almost everything that is wrong with the car, and the Factory Service Manual tells you how to deal with it. Have you checked the diagnostics yet? Turn key on, engine off, press and hold for a few seconds the "off" and "warmer" buttons on the climate control panel and write down any codes that appear in the message center. When you get the "PCM?" message it is done. Hit "auto" button or turn the key off to get out of diagnostics. Post your findings.

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My car did not come with remote control for locks/security... just the keys :-(

Vlad

The remote key fob is standard equipment with your car, so your car should have come with them. Did you purchase your car from a dealer? I would have insisted on the key fobs - if not the originals, they should have supplied replacements. My car came with the door and ignition keys (on a key ring) attached directly to the remote key fobs. It sounds unusual that the person/dealer you bought your car from doesn't have the originals. It's also a security issue. Your car/trunk can be unlocked with those key fobs. Also, if you have the factory alarm system, the alarm is disarmed using the key fob. I believe your car can be reprogrammed so that the original key fobs will not work with your car anymore. It can be done when you get the replacements. It may have to be done by a Cadillac Dealer, but this will cost some money. I would followup with the person/dealer you bought your car from. Not supplying the remotes is almost the same as not supplying the keys to the car.

Besides, the remote Key Fobs are an important integral feature of your car. Besides being able to lock and unlock your doors, trunk, and fuel door using the key fob, there are other convenient features:

Your car has a memory package (remembers seat position, climate control settings, audio settings, etc.). These memory functions are programmed right into the key fobs. Once you set your preferences, everytime you unlock your doors with the key fob, all of the above settings will revert to your preset settings before you even enter the car. Your car came with 2 key fobs, thus 2 choices for memory settings.

There's other nice features integrated with the key fob. The one I like is Perimeter Lighting. When you unlock the doors, the exterior lights turn on automatically. Great at night in a dark driveway, etc.

Definitely get the key fobs for your car. Personally, the only key I ever use is the ignition key. I use the remote key fob for everything else.

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My car did not come with remote control for locks/security... just the keys :-(

Vlad

The remote key fob is standard equipment with your car, so your car should have come with them. Did you purchase your car from a dealer? I would have insisted on the key fobs

.....

Definitely get the key fobs for your car. Personally, the only key I ever use is the ignition key. I use the remote key fob for everything else.

Hi,

thank you for the suggestion. I will definetely try to get the remote.

I went to the Cadillac dealer today to check the car/etc

and they told me it will cost me several hundred dollars to get a spare key

(and even more so to get a remote). Having a monopoly on this stuff I think helps :)

They also said that they absolutely will not do Transmission fluid drain and that

the only service that they offer is a flash (and that they have been doing it for the last

16 years). They also using Dextron 4, not 3.

I also asked them about brake rotors, to replace them with parts and labor it was going

to be around 400. So I just ordered rotors for the front on the net for 46$ (supposedly OEM),

and will do it myself (the mechanic was a nice guy and he said the rear are much more

difficult to change than front... so I will try front first)

I am getting slight pulsating resistance with turning the steering wheel at speed (above 30mph)

(when driving normally, not accellerating or braking), is this normal for this car?

I think it might be because it is so heavy and front-wheel... but on the other hand

everything is supposed to be so smooth...

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Also, check in to a HUNTER Road-Force Balance of the front wheels - this may be what's causing your shimmy at 65+ or so. There seems to be minor fault with SOME of the OEM GM wheels that don't balance correctly on the standard machines. My 02 Deville had a minor shimmy just at 66-68 MPH, and one $40 Hunter RF Balance eliminated it completely.

But now that I've replaced the tires in the front of the Deville about 2,000 miles ago, a little bit of the shimmy is back. So I guess it's back to RB Tire in Pennsville, NJ.. :)

Welcome to the Club, by the way. I had a base 99 Deville and it was a gas....

"For a successful technology, reality must take precedence over public relations, for Nature cannot be fooled." - Richard P. Feynman

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My car did not come with remote control for locks/security... just the keys :-(

Vlad

The remote key fob is standard equipment with your car, so your car should have come with them. Did you purchase your car from a dealer? I would have insisted on the key fobs

.....

Definitely get the key fobs for your car. Personally, the only key I ever use is the ignition key. I use the remote key fob for everything else.

Hi,

thank you for the suggestion. I will definetely try to get the remote.

I went to the Cadillac dealer today to check the car/etc

and they told me it will cost me several hundred dollars to get a spare key

(and even more so to get a remote). Having a monopoly on this stuff I think helps :)

They also said that they absolutely will not do Transmission fluid drain and that

the only service that they offer is a flash (and that they have been doing it for the last

16 years). They also using Dextron 4, not 3.

I also asked them about brake rotors, to replace them with parts and labor it was going

to be around 400. So I just ordered rotors for the front on the net for 46$ (supposedly OEM),

and will do it myself (the mechanic was a nice guy and he said the rear are much more

difficult to change than front... so I will try front first)

I am getting slight pulsating resistance with turning the steering wheel at speed (above 30mph)

(when driving normally, not accellerating or braking), is this normal for this car?

I think it might be because it is so heavy and front-wheel... but on the other hand

everything is supposed to be so smooth...

I didn't know Dexron 4 was out yet. When a new version of Dexron is introduced, it supercedes the previous version. You can go to www.gmotors.com and ask them for a quote for the remotes - they will provide the GM part no. and then you can use that to make sure you get the right one on ebay. As far as the keys go, the ignition key is $30 and the door key is $3.... I know that because the '97 STS I bought this spring only had one set of keys so I had to get another set. Fortunately, the keys that came with the car were the gold keys. :)

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Hi,

thank you for the suggestion. I will definetely try to get the remote.

I went to the Cadillac dealer today to check the car/etc

and they told me it will cost me several hundred dollars to get a spare key

(and even more so to get a remote). Having a monopoly on this stuff I think helps :)

I am getting slight pulsating resistance with turning the steering wheel at speed (above 30mph)

(when driving normally, not accellerating or braking), is this normal for this car?

I think it might be because it is so heavy and front-wheel... but on the other hand

everything is supposed to be so smooth...

Vlad,

That's why I suggested going back to the person/dealer you bought your car from. It really doesn't make sense that they don't have the remotes since the keys to the car are always attached to the remotes. Mention to them that they "forgot" to supply you with the remotes and you need them to access your car's functions. As I said, the remotes are an integral part of your car and you're missing out on a lot of nice features without them. It's always expensive to get parts through the dealer. In addition, there's programming involved as well which adds to the cost.

I'm not sure what you mean by a pulsating "resistance". Is the steering wheel pulsating, or is it locking up? In any case, if the wheel is pulsating or locking up, that's not normal. However, your car has something called Magnasteer which is a variable assist steering system (you get less "resistance"/more power assist at lower speeds and more "resistance"/less power assist at higher speeds, cornering, hard braking, etc. for better vehicle control). If the steering wheel feels slightly firmer at or above 30 MPH, that's a normal part of your Magnasteer system. Pulsating is not.

Actually, the only negative steering effect that is somewhat noticeable because of front wheel drive is something called "torque steer". If you accelerate hard from a stop, you may feel the steering wheel pull to the left and right slightly. I only notice it if I hit the gas pretty hard. This is a well documented issue with all front wheel drive cars (especially cars with powerful engines), but Cadillac has developed several technological advancements that have reduced torque steer to a minimum.

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Welcome to the forum, and congratulations on the new car. The LSx engines are fun. My brother has a '99 C5 convert. with a supercharger that's pushing out almost 500 wheel horsepower.

You're right -- these Northstar engines are really different animals. Not necessarily hard to work on, but not necessarily perceptive to "aftermarket" stuff either. Our best experiences, at least with the engine, are with factory ACDelco parts. ACDelco plugs/wires and you should be good to go. I will second the notion that 20W-50 is unnecessarily thick, even in your climate. 10W-30 is plenty thick for that engine. I'll also second the notion to use only the recommended coolant, Dex-Cool. The Dex-Cool has performed extremely well in these cars/engines and will last a long time. You probably are set for a change with the age of the car, but I wouldn't use straight water, even with a Water Wetter product. A straight 50/50 mix of Dex-Cool and distilled water is correct for this car.

As far as the brakes, the BEST money I have spent on my own car is a set of crossdrilled rotors from Powerstop. This current set of rotors/pads has been on my car for almost 70k miles now and they're still straight and true. A few other members here have had positive experience with the crossdrilled rotors. They're not just for looks (if they were, I wouldn't have bought them, as you can't see the brakes through my wheels anyway).

The 97-99 DeVille is one of my favorite styles of the DeVille line. It's a great car and I'm sure you'll be real happy with it.

Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond)

"When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?"

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Again thank you for the welcomes and all the suggestions.

Called the deler today about the keys, they bought the car at an

auction, therefore no remote or extra keys (and they not are cadillac dealer, but I got a great price, 'as-is', otherwise would have never been able to afford a luxary car like this :-) )

I will do my searches on ebay.

I should have waited for a suggestion on good rotors

for the car, ... but too late,

next time around will get the powerstops (or may be for the back,

as will change those too eventually)

The 'pulsating feeling' while steering is very slight, it is just not

100% smooth and especially tight, as say I have on an Accord or the Firebird, may be also the tires, as the one I have on now

are cheap. The mechanic at a dealershp said 'buy

Michelin' when ready to change.. I have had good experience

with BF Goodrich directional tires, much better to go through rain

feels better traction.

But no there are no lockups while steering...

Yes it does feel little tighter to turn when driving at higher speed, and that's probably that electonically controlled steering assist.

Still feels somewhat 'disconnected' from the road.

I have not taken it to highway yet (wating to get my rotors and replace),

but in the city I am getting 16.1 miles per gallon, which I think is OK

given the car weight.

I have a littler radiator in front of the big radiator in my car,

is this the extra transmission cooler and does that mean I have

the optional towing package (I do not have a big towing hook on the back)?

I found out today that insurance on this car is bit less expensive

than for my Firebird, in fact I switched insurance companies and added

this car plus all the others I have and I saved 100 bucks :-)

Thanks,

Vlad

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