KHE Posted May 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2006 Here are some pictures of the engine build and install. The block after installing the Bigserts. The heads have been torqued down. Timing chains installed. Ready for installation. Lining up the engine. Bolted up to the transmission! I got the coolant crossover pipes installed yesterday as well as the front motor mount. The wire clips that hold the rear wiring harness to the cam cover all shattered and the dealer says they are not available separately from the whole harness..... I'll look at the parts store or will need to fab. something up. I hope to get most of the brackets, etc. installed tonight. I should be able to finish it and start it up tomorrow. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted May 12, 2006 Report Share Posted May 12, 2006 We'll be listening for the sound of the hood closing.... Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted May 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2006 By 11:30 last night, I was far enough along that I could start it up so I did. I primed the oil pump for 30 seconds and then plugged in the ICM and it started right up. I need to bleed the power steering, install the dogbones, enable the airbags top off the coolant, check for leaks, etc. It shouldn't take long to finish it tonight. I need to get it out on the road and clear the carbon out of it.... In the next few days, I'll evacuate and recharge the air conditioning as I had to remove the line from the accumulator to the evaporator to get the engine in. I can just about do that work in my sleep. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Nunnally Posted May 16, 2006 Report Share Posted May 16, 2006 Wow, that must have been great to hear it run smoothly. Glad the project is going so well. Bruce 2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing Follow me on: Twitter Instagram Youtube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted May 16, 2006 Report Share Posted May 16, 2006 Congratulations! Good job! Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonie77 Posted May 16, 2006 Report Share Posted May 16, 2006 I'll bet you got a BIG grin! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted May 16, 2006 Report Share Posted May 16, 2006 Kevin: You have come a long way since the end of March! Well done. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry94 Posted May 17, 2006 Report Share Posted May 17, 2006 Good to hear that it started. You had not posted for awhile, and I was hoping all was well. That moment just before you try to start it, and then the relief when it starts. Great job. Barry 2008 STS V82016 Colorado Z711970 Corvette LT-1 Coupe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted May 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2006 I was a little nervous when I cranked it up for the first time....all sorts of what-ifs ran through my mind... I finished it last night. On Monday, I noticed the dogbones were in bad shape so I decided to replace them. Last night, I got all the covers/shrouds, etc. installed and started it up. While I was topping off the coolant, I noticed smoke coming from the front and rear of the engine so I shut it down. I quickly examined the areas and concluded that it was a combination of residual oil left over from the Timeserting process and the new gaskets baking in. After I put all the tools away and cleaned up, I started it up again and the smoke was barely present so I let it idle away and after a few minutes, it was gone so I knew my conclusion was right but it sure got my attention. All the while, the temp gage was in the normal 12:00 position so I took it for a ride. I watched the temperature gage like a hawk... After about 5 miles, I stopped at the gas station and filled it up and then put it through the paces... there's no carbon buildup in there anymore... All that time, the temp gage never moved from the normal position. I drove it to work this morning and it still is fine. Now, I am going to start my report to the owner of the stealership with a copy to the GM zone rep on why the last repair failed....hopefully, I can prevent the cretins from ruining someone else's car and then attempting to charge them for a new engine. I'd like to add the coolant temp and vehicle speed to the DIC like I did for my '96. Are the override values the same from '96 to '97? I rarely use the coolant temp readout but like the availability of the digital speed display. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonie77 Posted May 17, 2006 Report Share Posted May 17, 2006 You'll be paranoid about the coolant temp for awhile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted May 17, 2006 Report Share Posted May 17, 2006 .... I drove it to work this morning and it still is fine. Now, I am going to start my report to the owner of the stealership with a copy to the GM zone rep on why the last repair failed....hopefully, I can prevent the cretins from ruining someone else's car and then attempting to charge them for a new engine. Excellent. Stay after these folks! Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarrenJ Posted May 17, 2006 Report Share Posted May 17, 2006 .... I drove it to work this morning and it still is fine. Now, I am going to start my report to the owner of the stealership with a copy to the GM zone rep on why the last repair failed....hopefully, I can prevent the cretins from ruining someone else's car and then attempting to charge them for a new engine. Excellent. Stay after these folks! It would be great to think you might in the future save a Cadillac owner some serious heartache. Let's hope! Regards, Warren There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebby Posted May 18, 2006 Report Share Posted May 18, 2006 Kevin, how did the head bolt torquing go? It went fine - the Bigserts held up . That is the first time I've torqued bolts to an angular value and was very concerned about losing the torque sequence which would have been disasterous... the engine looks huge with the heads mounted - like a 472 or 500. The final prep work should be relatively easy - I need to locate a balancer pulley installer as well as fab up a waterpump pulley installer. Kevin When got the heads off was there carbon buildup anywhere? could you explain the angular value when torquing the head bolts? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted May 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2006 There was some carbon buildup on the pistons and valves but nothing to be concerned about. After my test drive, I'm sure it is all gone now... The torque specs on the Northstar are in angular values as it provides much more consistent clamping force as it takes friction out of the equation. The first step is to torque the head bolts in sequence to 22 ft-lbs. with a regular torque wrench. Next, the bolts are tightened in sequence 60 degrees, then another 60 degrees and a final 60 degree pass. The angle is measured with a torque angle meter which is used between a breaker bar and the socket. The stationary portion of the meter is clamped in a fixed position and as the bolt is tightened, a needle indicates the relative angular movement of the fastener. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted May 19, 2006 Report Share Posted May 19, 2006 There was some carbon buildup on the pistons and valves but nothing to be concerned about. After my test drive, I'm sure it is all gone now... The torque specs on the Northstar are in angular values as it provides much more consistent clamping force as it takes friction out of the equation. The first step is to torque the head bolts in sequence to 22 ft-lbs. with a regular torque wrench. Next, the bolts are tightened in sequence 60 degrees, then another 60 degrees and a final 60 degree pass. The angle is measured with a torque angle meter which is used between a breaker bar and the socket. The stationary portion of the meter is clamped in a fixed position and as the bolt is tightened, a needle indicates the relative angular movement of the fastener. Thanks Kevin for that explanation. I was wondering why torque angle has become the norm for some critical bolts. I had to torque the rocker arms on the 3100 to 14 ft lbs then 30 degrees. I used a protractor as I don't have a Torque Angle Meter. I was looking at this one to purchase, do you think its adequate? Thanks, Mike http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAct...ROD&ProdID=1165 Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted May 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2006 That would work. I bought one from Lisle Tool that has a flexible cable with an alligator clip which makes it easier to fix the position of the dial. http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=392 You can also spend the big bucks on digital angle meters but for the occassional do it yourselfer, the simple ones work just fine. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebby Posted May 19, 2006 Report Share Posted May 19, 2006 That would work. I bought one from Lisle Tool that has a flexible cable with an alligator clip which makes it easier to fix the position of the dial. http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=392 You can also spend the big bucks on digital angle meters but for the occassional do it yourselfer, the simple ones work just fine. Kevin Did you have any oil sitting in the intake when you took it off? I was checking my 97 intake due to an erratic idle and saw oil pooling in the intake. I think it gets up in there from the PCV valve and I am wondering if this oil gets burned and that is why my HC reading is close to a fail at 60 ppm. Was it a pain to get the chains back on without being out a tooth? what about the tensioner, is there a trick with it ? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted May 19, 2006 Report Share Posted May 19, 2006 That would work. I bought one from Lisle Tool that has a flexible cable with an alligator clip which makes it easier to fix the position of the dial. http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=392 You can also spend the big bucks on digital angle meters but for the occassional do it yourselfer, the simple ones work just fine. Kevin Did you have any oil sitting in the intake when you took it off? I was checking my 97 intake due to an erratic idle and saw oil pooling in the intake. I think it gets up in there from the PCV valve and I am wondering if this oil gets burned and that is why my HC reading is close to a fail at 60 ppm. Was it a pain to get the chains back on without being out a tooth? what about the tensioner, is there a trick with it ? Thanks I remember the guru saying that oil pooling in the intake was not bad nor is it a sign of any problem. I forget where he said it came from. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted May 20, 2006 Report Share Posted May 20, 2006 It comes from the crankcase gasses introduced throught the PVC that settle out after the engine is shut down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted May 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2006 That would work. I bought one from Lisle Tool that has a flexible cable with an alligator clip which makes it easier to fix the position of the dial. http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=392 You can also spend the big bucks on digital angle meters but for the occassional do it yourselfer, the simple ones work just fine. Kevin Did you have any oil sitting in the intake when you took it off? I was checking my 97 intake due to an erratic idle and saw oil pooling in the intake. I think it gets up in there from the PCV valve and I am wondering if this oil gets burned and that is why my HC reading is close to a fail at 60 ppm. Was it a pain to get the chains back on without being out a tooth? what about the tensioner, is there a trick with it ? Thanks There was not any oil under the intake - but oil in the valley is not a problem - the valley space is basically dead space. If you didn't remove the intake, you'd never know the oil was there. There was nothing difficult about getting the chains back on - the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and intermediate sprocket must be aligned with the #1 piston at top dead center. It may take up to 7 turns of the crankshaft to align the marks. The flexplate must then be locked in position - I used two C-clamps on the flexplate against the vertical post of the engine stand. I then used a carpenter's quick clamp to clamp both C-clamps against the vertical post of the engine stand. The tensioners are retracted by rotating the levers counterclockwise and then a pin is inserted to keep it retracted (gernade pin). The secondary chains are then installed - the cams must be kept in line - the alignment pins must be in the 12:00 position relative to the cam cover surface. The service manual indicated the specific order in chain routing. Once the chains are installed, the "gernade pins" are removed and the tensioners will extend. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhall Posted May 20, 2006 Report Share Posted May 20, 2006 Here's a pic of the cam chains and tensioner just for kicks.... [attachmentid=2562] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeal1892 Posted May 20, 2006 Report Share Posted May 20, 2006 Sounds like its coming along great ! Glad to see you had hear out on the road ! Michael - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudweiser Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 Nice write up on this project. I just bought a 97 STS and it is in need of a head gasket. At least thats what the owner is saying his shop found out. This is my first Caddy but i have done a few head gaskets in RWD vehicles in the past. Is there anything else i should do while i'm at it? Thanks, Jamie Where can i buy elbow grease? I don't want to use any of mine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted March 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2007 Nice write up on this project. I just bought a 97 STS and it is in need of a head gasket. At least thats what the owner is saying his shop found out. This is my first Caddy but i have done a few head gaskets in RWD vehicles in the past. Is there anything else i should do while i'm at it? Thanks, Jamie When the engine is out, check the HVAC cover - if yours is brittle, the time to replace it is when the engine is out. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrazyK55 Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 Kevin, Thanks for the nice detailed report on your head gasket project. I hope your repair is holding up well! I am getting ready to do this to my 96 Eldorado which I dearly love so your thread has been a wealth of information. However, I am having trouble deciding which way to pull the engine, out the top or drop it out the bottom so, I thought I would ask which way you would go if you had to do the job again? I ave the room to do it either way but, I'm leaning towards out the top however, that may be because I'm old school and that is how we did it back in the day... Thanks again for all of the good information and I hope your car last a very long time... Dave e-mail: KrazyK55@charter.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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